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House Build - Guide

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Thank you for the reply. It's always a good day when I learn something new, especially on issues of safety and reliability.

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  • I dont think that anyone will have taken the time to make such a guide as most on here aren't qualified electricians. There is certainly some good advice on here and a fair amount opinion not based on

  • WhiteBuffaloATM
    WhiteBuffaloATM

    Yes. if you google “thailand electrical standards”, you will find 2nd item is AseanNow Electrical Forum Post from Moderator Crossy which appears Definitive.

  • The regulations themselves are way too heavy for a domestic installer, the PEA document included by @sometimewoodworker is far better at pointing your man in the right direction.   This is t

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p.s.  I soldered those earth connections primarily because I don't 100% trust wire nuts. Sort of a belt and braces approach. But it seems that everything should be under a screw. If so, what is the recommended product today when 2 or 3 pieces of Romex meet in an otherwise empty 6x6 box?

 

p.p.s.  Stranded 2+e wire for fixtures and outlets? Is that for real?

 

 

2 hours ago, mahjongguy said:

p.s.  I soldered those earth connections primarily because I don't 100% trust wire nuts. Sort of a belt and braces approach. But it seems that everything should be under a screw. If so, what is the recommended product today when 2 or 3 pieces of Romex meet in an otherwise empty 6x6 box?

 

p.p.s.  Stranded 2+e wire for fixtures and outlets? Is that for real?

 

 

Mostly single cable is used as it’s much easier to pull.

8 hours ago, mahjongguy said:

But it seems that everything should be under a screw. If so, what is the recommended product today when 2 or 3 pieces of Romex meet in an otherwise empty 6x6 box?

 

If you don't like wire-nuts (I don't) then either the choc-bloc type connectors of a suitable size (I like to strip the wires long enough that they all go under both screws) or the lever-type Wago connectors will do an excellent (and removable if needed) job.

"I don't want to know why you can't. I want to know how you can!"

On 10/21/2021 at 10:22 AM, tamsam6 said:

Thank you Shaemus.  Solid information.  I'm going to see about getting these recommendations translated by the translator I use and just hand them to the contractor.  Thanks again!

It might be an idea to go to your local large diy store and spend a few hours literally looking at the materials that are available of the shelf, and whilst you are there in situ. Google the name of the equipment eg. Imc /  emt metal conduit and search for images. This will give you a decent idea of how the equipment is installed. The emt metal conduit system is much cheaper to install, lighter, and obviously quicker, apposed to imc which requires higher level of skills and the requirement to have each piece of conduit threaded. 

 

The above is just and example another would be the size and depth of the back boxes in the walls for the switches / sockets etc. The standard format here is 4" x 2" box. There are different depths of box and also  4" x 4" for a 6 gang plate or 2 rows of three switchs one ontop of another. Your house plans ideally will have the switching layout on so you can work out the box requirements from that. 

 

Whilst we are on the subject of switches also consider this. Are you cabling for smart switches? 

 

I personally always take the neutral to the switch, which in the UK is called 3 plating. So you have a feed in Live Neutral & earth. Through the switches (live only) and back out to the lights. It makes the requirement for deeper boxes or set back more into the brickwork but makes testing much easier as it does to second fix ( install accessories) as you are not on a ladder stripping multiple cables. Just one T&E or L, N, E. 

 

Just a thoughts

 

Shaemus 

On 10/21/2021 at 11:52 PM, sometimewoodworker said:

Mostly single cable is used as it’s much easier to pull.

Its cheaper, to buy. It doesn't even come on a cable drum so not easy to use. It only because labour is cheap that is tolerated by industry. 

 

Its termed "singles" in the UK and building wire in the uk. In both of those places it is not cheaper to install as it is not double insulated and CANNOT be installed surface direct or just floating above ceilings. Its for electrical safety of which there isn't a great deal of reguard for here in the LOS. Its seemingly accepted as the norm here as there isn't any looking who cares nor can do anything about it and it may well be perfectly to the standards here but as always in any industry the national standards are the ABSOLUTE MINIMUM methods you can use. 

 

Shaemus 

On 10/21/2021 at 2:28 PM, mahjongguy said:

Why no soldering?

A good electrical system has low resistance, normally obtained by good installation practices, the primary method is not to put too many joints in or keep to a minimum. 

 

Solder certainly has its uses but it use should be kept to the absolute minimum. 

 

If you search "terminal on lazada a wide variety is shown as available. 

 

Shaemus 

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