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Posted

We've noticed a few water marks on the plaster board ceilings in a few rooms since the rains started to come a month or so ago. Nothing too big or major. probably 5 or 6 in total, a few CM in diameter. One long one that is around 20cm long and, but narrow.

 

I wanted to leave them for the rainy season as the marks would highlight which part of the roof is leaking. I may or may not do that, as there are another few month of sporadic rain storms to come. 

 

So it come to sealing a roof.

 

Google shopping shows loads of different types of roof sealants, mainly they seem to be acrylic. Some in squirty tubes, some in tubs.

 

Which types of sealants are usually good?

 

Is it a case of getting up there and cleaning out around each tile, and then squirting the sealant around each one?

 

Or tub, and apply it all over the tiles with a roller is better?

 

TIA. 

 

Posted

What kind of tiles.

Best replace cracked or displaced concrete roof tiles.

Corrugated cracked cement tiles can seal with tube mastic underside or roof side tar backed foil tape.

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Posted
15 hours ago, Kwasaki said:

What kind of tiles.

Best replace cracked or displaced concrete roof tiles.

Corrugated cracked cement tiles can seal with tube mastic underside or roof side tar backed foil tape.

I have no idea.

 

From the outside they look like this:

 

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Can see some water damage on the awning. 

 

From under the roof the tiles look like this:

 

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Quote

 

 

Posted

When you can see the sun through the roof from the underside, what else than leaking can you expect.

 

Also that roof is completely wrong laid Did the roof worker know water streams down?

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Posted
17 minutes ago, BenStark said:

Also that roof is completely wrong laid Did the roof worker know water streams down?

Getting roof seal tape, and taping over where light is visible from under sounds like an option. 

Posted
59 minutes ago, JeffersLos said:

I'm not sure. A better look at them.

 

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They are Corrugated concrete roof sheets, we have same we replace or if just cracks use roll of tar backed tape on roof side after smoothing down.

Checking for loose fixings with black silicon neatly around to seal and tighten if you can, depends on type of fixing used.

Underside cracks which can be seen and got to easier we clean with with brush an use black silicon mastic.

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Posted
21 hours ago, JeffersLos said:

I'm not sure. A better look at them.

 

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Those two photos appear to show the tiles laid incorrectly, they need to be rotated 90 degrees to the rain water will flow down the roof from top to bottom.  The way those tiles are laid, the water flow is horizontal which does not work.  I'd replace all those tiles.  The photo of the other part of the roof appears to show the tiles in the correct orientation.

 

Loose fitting tiles need to be re-attached securely.  Broken or badly cracked tiles need to be replaced.  Those with small cracks can be repaired with silicone.  I have done it with good results.  Sealing the whole roof is probably not necessary.

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Posted
11 minutes ago, Dante99 said:

Those two photos appear to show the tiles laid incorrectly, they need to be rotated 90 degrees to the rain water will flow down the roof from top to bottom.  

Thanks.

 

These roof tiles need to be rotated 90 degrees?

 

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Is having a roofer/tiler come to rotate and lay them all correctly viable? 

 

Would such a job typically be done in one day, for an average size house?

 

TIA

Posted
4 minutes ago, JeffersLos said:

Thanks.

 

These roof tiles need to be rotated 90 degrees?

 

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Is having a roofer/tiler come to rotate and lay them all correctly viable? 

 

Would such a job typically be done in one day, for an average size house?

 

TIA

The ones in that photo appear okay.  It was the other photo I was referring to.  I do not think it will be as easy as have a roofer come over and rotate the tiles 90 degrees because the underlying framing the tiles attach to would not be in the correct positions.

 

22 hours ago, JeffersLos said:

I'm not sure. A better look at them.

 

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Those are the photos I was referring to.  Can you see the difference in the tile orientation in the photos?  Is that section of roof something that was added on after the house was originally built?  

Posted

These appear to be asbestosis cement tiles (not legal anymore) but newer cement only look about the same - the original tiles do not seal properly without being cut a bit when installed (which is real danger).  If not ready to replace roof perhaps using cement board ceiling (as was normally done with such homes rather than plaster/wall board would be cost effective.  Cleaning spots with vinegar will restore ceiling if not want to change.

 

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Posted
7 minutes ago, Dante99 said:

Those are the photos I was referring to.  Can you see the difference in the tile orientation in the photos?  Is that section of roof something that was added on after the house was originally built?  

Thank.

 

The main roof has a lip on the front and back, which from the side angle may look like all the tiles are laid at that rotation.

 

Maybe this angle from under is clearer. 

 

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Posted

Looks like an old add on botch roof job at some time.

You could leave them in place and do an overlay steel purlin rails from global house on top of old corrugated roofing fixing to the existing purlins running the other way.

 

Then buy some one length steel corrugated sheets to achieve to a 90 degree slope if that's what's required.

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Posted

'Cleaning spots with vinegar will restore ceiling if not want to change.'

 

Do you just use a paint brush with the vinegar?

After you can paint over the vinegar treated ceiling, will the colour be the same?

Posted
1 minute ago, carlyai said:

'Cleaning spots with vinegar will restore ceiling if not want to change.'

 

Do you just use a paint brush with the vinegar?

After you can paint over the vinegar treated ceiling, will the colour be the same?

Only if you use clear paint. 

Posted
10 minutes ago, carlyai said:

'Cleaning spots with vinegar will restore ceiling if not want to change.'

 

Do you just use a paint brush with the vinegar?

After you can paint over the vinegar treated ceiling, will the colour be the same?

Actually on second thought believe it was 30% Haiter liquid bleach and 70% water in a spray bottle and just make it damp - when dries goes back to normal white color.  Best to check Google as may have used damp cloth after half hour or so.  Was quite suppressed at how well it worked.

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Posted
7 hours ago, JeffersLos said:

Thank.

 

The main roof has a lip on the front and back, which from the side angle may look like all the tiles are laid at that rotation.

 

Maybe this angle from under is clearer. 

 

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Sorry, I do not think the main roof was what I was referring to based on the photos.  I think I have been clear but it seams you do not get what I am trying to say so I think my effort to assist has reached an end.

Posted
14 hours ago, Dante99 said:

Sorry, I do not think the main roof was what I was referring to based on the photos.  I think I have been clear but it seams you do not get what I am trying to say so I think my effort to assist has reached an end.

From the pix shown it was a confusing one.

In my time a site visit is best without doubt.

Drones will be a handy roof inspection pix tool.

Posted
8 minutes ago, Yellowtail said:

Looking at the pictures, I would get a price on a new roof. 

 

We have simple such roof for 45 years now and still standing.  Installed air vents and placed insulation on ceilings about 35-40 years ago and few leaks were fixed at that time - no issues since.  The pics were hard to judge from, except for an obvious sun leak in one (which does need a fix).

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Posted
1 minute ago, lopburi3 said:

We have simple such roof for 45 years now and still standing.  Installed air vents and placed insulation on ceilings about 35-40 years ago and few leaks were fixed at that time - no issues since.  The pics were hard to judge from, except for an obvious sun leak in one (which does need a fix).

So what would you do if your 45-year-old roof had four or five new leaks? 

Posted
18 minutes ago, Yellowtail said:

So what would you do if your 45-year-old roof had four or five new leaks? 

Over 20 years ago those roof sheets were the only locally supplies available.

We have had about 5 leaks in all that time and are just fixed easily or you can still replace the sheet. 

Posted
22 minutes ago, Kwasaki said:

Over 20 years ago those roof sheets were the only locally supplies available.

We have had about 5 leaks in all that time and are just fixed easily or you can still replace the sheet. 

So what would you do if you had a 45-year-old roof that had four or five new leaks? 

Posted
48 minutes ago, Yellowtail said:

So what would you do if your 45-year-old roof had four or five new leaks? 

Gather rain water?  ????  It would probably be time to replace everything (wood rafters now) with iron and insulated panel type roof.  But OP did not mention how old roof is that I noticed - thought it was new or almost new but may have missed something.

Posted
12 minutes ago, lopburi3 said:

Gather rain water?  ????  It would probably be time to replace everything (wood rafters now) with iron and insulated panel type roof.  But OP did not mention how old roof is that I noticed - thought it was new or almost new but may have missed something.

Yeah, not new but almost new. 

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Posted
Just now, JeffersLos said:

Thank you for all the information and comments.

 

I believe the roof is around 15 years old.

 

Are you wanting to fix it yourself? If so, are you comfortable climbing on it? 

Posted
14 minutes ago, Yellowtail said:

How? 

First clean the roof (I would pressure wash it) then stick the tape down. Job done.
These are the tapesIMG_5494.thumb.jpeg.00924bcf4aa5be054e88345b78c4e744.jpeg

and this is the usageIMG_5493.thumb.jpeg.901ac347739ffa6f1d2523be8c0a8ad0.jpeg

 

they will stick to anything never harden and are perfect for sealing roofs, we first used small squares to seal a leaking roof about 14 years ago, it’s likely that the roof will rust away before the tape fails 

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