How-To Paint/Coat Unfinished-Rubberwood Door: Protect From Oils, Standing-Water

[sometimewoodworker]

1 hour ago, degrub said:

Based on the environment and threats previously listed,  no finish will last more than a few years.  

Incorrect information (I am trying to be polite and not relate it to male bovine wast product). I have items I made over 18 years ago where the finish is as good as when I put it on, I also have one box I made about 50 years ago where there is mechanically damaged edges (I use it as a tool box) but the majority of it is still OK.

 

1 hour ago, degrub said:

if there are surface oils on the rubber tree wood, a good wipe down with alcohol before applying finishes would be a good idea.

No rubber wood I have ever bought here from any source has had surface oils, I have never heard of anyone that has had any rubber wood that has the problem.

1 hour ago, degrub said:

An alternative would be a thinned coat or two of shellac as a base.

Shellac is used based on the amount dissolved in the carrier (almost always alcohol) and can be anything from a ½lb cut to a 4lb or even 8lb cut so advise suggesting that you thin it is of little help FWIW many sanding sealers use a ½lb cut so while, off course, you can thin them to a ¼lb there will be so little shellac left it would be virtually pointless.

 

based on the advice you have given I can only assume that you either have very poor materials available to you or your finishing skills can benefit from a very great deal of improvement, though you could probably live in an environment that is extremely harsh and unusual.

Edited August 31, 2023 by sometimewoodworker

[degrub]

5 minutes ago, sometimewoodworker said:

Incorrect information (I am trying to be polite and not relate it to male bovine wast product). I have items I made over 18 years ago where the finish is as good as when I put it on, I also have one box I made about 50 years ago where there is mechanically damaged edges (I use it as a tool box) but the majority of it is still OK.

 

No rubber wood I have ever bought here from any source has had surface oils, I have never heard of anyone that has had any rubber wood that has the problem.

Shellac is used based on the amount dissolved in the carrier (almost always alcohol) and can be anything from a ½lb cut to a 4lb or even 8lb cut so advise suggesting that you thin it is of little help FWIW many sanding sealers use a ½lb cut so while, off course, you can thin them to a ¼lb there will be so little shellac left it would be virtually pointless.

Not going to argue with you. We have some different experiences with polyurethane and varnish coated table tops, mine with children.

 

Working with rubber tree wood is out of my experience so the surface oils comment was only offered for awareness.

 

yes, thinning sanding sealer would not make sense. My experience is with 4# cut and i did not include that detail. Thank you for for explaining the details.

[impulse]

3 hours ago, Ralf001 said:

I always apply a clear finish over primer & paint process.

If end product requires a natural wood grain finish.. well then obviously no paint or primer, even a moron knows this...... one would hope !

Certainly you're not claiming that Asean Now is a Moron-Free-Forum.

[impulse]

2 hours ago, sometimewoodworker said:

Shellac is used based on the amount dissolved in the carrier (almost always alcohol) and can be anything from a ½lb cut to a 4lb or even 8lb cut so advise suggesting that you thin it is of little help FWIW many sanding sealers use a ½lb cut so while, off course, you can thin them to a ¼lb there will be so little shellac left it would be virtually pointless.

Can you get genuine shellac in Thailand (made from ground up bugs...), or is it a petroleum based substitute?

 

[sometimewoodworker]

35 minutes ago, impulse said:

Can you get genuine shellac in Thailand (made from ground up bugs...), or is it a petroleum based substitute?

You certainly can, in fact Thailand is one of the major producing countries. FWIW I don’t know of any petroleum based substitute though C₂H₅OH is not the only solvent used.

Edited August 31, 2023 by sometimewoodworker

[OneZero]

On 8/31/2023 at 7:42 AM, Ralf001 said:

My bad, here is the link.

https://www.google.com/

You're not bad.  Plus, I congratulate you on your patience for not asking the pos if anybody ever taught him how to ask a question in a way that doesn't also provide an underhanded implied insult.

[ThaiFelix]

On 8/31/2023 at 4:45 AM, Ralf001 said:

Painting or coating an unfinished rubberwood door to protect it from oils and standing water involves several steps to ensure a durable and long-lasting finish. Here's a guide to help you achieve the best results:

 

Materials You'll Need:

 

Unfinished rubberwood door

Sandpaper (120-grit and 220-grit)

Tack cloth or microfiber cloth

Primer suitable for wood

Paint or finish suitable for wood (such as polyurethane or varnish)

Paintbrushes or paint sprayer

Painter's tape

Drop cloths or newspapers

Protective gloves and safety goggles

Step-by-Step Guide:

 

1. Prepare Your Workspace:

Choose a well-ventilated area with good lighting for your painting project.

Lay down drop cloths or newspapers to protect the surrounding area from paint splatters.

 

2. Clean the Door:

Use a damp cloth to clean the surface of the rubberwood door and remove any dust or debris.

Allow the door to dry completely before proceeding.

 

3. Sanding:

Start with 120-grit sandpaper to lightly sand the entire surface of the door.

Sanding helps to smooth out any imperfections, open the wood's pores, and provide a better surface for the primer to adhere to.

After sanding, wipe the door with a tack cloth or microfiber cloth to remove the sanding dust.

 

4. Apply Primer:

Apply a suitable wood primer using a brush or roller. Make sure to cover the entire surface evenly.

Follow the manufacturer's instructions for drying time between coats if multiple coats of primer are required.

Sand the primed surface lightly with 220-grit sandpaper after it's completely dry to achieve a smoother finish.

 

5. Apply Base Coats:

If you want to paint the door a specific color, apply your chosen paint after the primer has dried and been sanded.

Apply thin, even coats of paint, allowing each coat to dry completely before applying the next. Multiple thin coats are better than one thick coat.

Sand lightly between coats for a smoother finish.

 

6. Apply Protective Finish:

If you prefer a clear finish, choose a polyurethane or varnish suitable for wood.

Apply thin coats of the protective finish using a clean brush, roller, or sprayer. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for drying time and sanding between coats if necessary.

 

7. Handle Oils and Water Protection:

To protect the door from oils and water, ensure that the chosen protective finish is water-resistant and offers adequate sealing properties.

Avoid using harsh chemicals or abrasive cleaners that could damage the finish.

 

8. Allow Ample Drying Time:

Proper drying time is crucial to achieving a durable finish. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations for drying times between coats and before using the door.

 

9. Reattach Hardware:

Once the finish is fully cured and dry, reattach any hardware such as doorknobs, hinges, and locks.

 

Remember that each product you use, including the primer, paint, and protective finish, might have specific application instructions and drying times.

Always follow the manufacturer's guidelines for the best results.

Additionally, taking your time and applying each coat carefully will help ensure a professional-looking finish that effectively protects your rubberwood door from oils and standing water.

 

 

Wow, Well done!  Why didnt you just pop around and do it for him, might have been easier hahahah!

[Ralf001]

5 minutes ago, ThaiFelix said:

Wow, Well done!  Why didnt you just pop around and do it for him, might have been easier hahahah!

Took him longer to type the post than it took me on google to get the answer then cut and paste here.

 

The guy is atrociously lazy, he aint ever gunna paint any wood.

[FlorC]

What you want is cheap sturdy door and make it to a counter for computer and stuff. Unless you really want to see the wood , why not use formica to cover it ?

It will be flat , can stand water and oil , nice smooth , easily cleaned.

Back home wood covered in formica is easy to get in every DIY store , but not so here in Thailand.

It is possible to find the formica but you'll have to glue it yourself . Not that easy but a lot less work and toxic fumes than varnish , PU or paint.

[DJ54]

OP GG some very good from people that know wha5 they’re doing. Heed their advice and your project will come out good… or quick easy way dip toilet park in bucket of varnish …. Slop it on… 

might look ok…. 

[Grusa]

On 8/31/2023 at 7:16 AM, GammaGlobulin said:

Thanks for advice about the thinning of the first coat.

Two coats to start with.

Then, later, maybe add a third when needed...in the future.

 

If you are going to use multiple coats, they should be applied within quite a short time of each other... how long should be specified on the tin. Leaving it too long, they will not bond, and will peel.

[Ralf001]

19 hours ago, DJ54 said:

OP GG some very good from people that know wha5 they’re doing. Heed their advice and your project will come out good… or quick easy way dip toilet park in bucket of varnish …. Slop it on… 

might look ok…. 

Toilet park ?

[GammaGlobulin]

10 minutes ago, Grusa said:

If you are going to use multiple coats, they should be applied within quite a short time of each other... how long should be specified on the tin. Leaving it too long, they will not bond, and will peel.

I definitely did not realize/consider this point. Tks. 

 

When it comes to painting anything with anything, I seem unable to avoid procrastination. 

 

 

[brianthainess]

TAO Yacht varnish was used on all my wooden doors 5+years ago, Instruction are on the tin.

first coat is very thin,

second coat thinned

top coat thin a little bit.

[GammaGlobulin]

17 minutes ago, Ralf001 said:

Toilet park ?

? 

 

[GammaGlobulin]

19 hours ago, DJ54 said:

OP GG some very good from people that know wha5 they’re doing. Heed their advice and your project will come out good… or quick easy way dip toilet park in bucket of varnish …. Slop it on… 

might look ok…. 

Maybe you are referring to some type of sponge material? 

 

If so, that is a thought to consider. 

 

Using a sponge to paint walls does work. 

 

 

[brianthainess]

11 minutes ago, brianthainess said:

TAO Yacht varnish was used on all my wooden doors 5+years ago, Instruction are on the tin.

first coat is very thin,

second coat thinned

top coat thin a little bit.

I forgot to mention make sure to paint the underside of doors, let the first coat soak right in, and dry.

[ThaiFelix]

21 hours ago, GammaGlobulin said:

I definitely did not realize/consider this point. Tks. 

 

When it comes to painting anything with anything, I seem unable to avoid procrastination. 

 

 

If you do not recoat soon after drying, sanding between coats will improve bonding.

[GammaGlobulin]

HI, Guys....

 

Let me tell you....

Originally, I had thought to never post another DIY Topic, ever again....

 

But then, after receiving so much support from you guys on this Door-Coating Topic, ....

I really thought that I OWED it to you to provide my result...

 

For example, I just think it is NOT RIGHT that someone might ask for advice....

And then not provide the result...

If you get my drift....

 

So anyway, here is what happened:

 

aa.  I am a pretty LAZY person.  And so, even though I am ALSO a perfectionist, I prefer to just be a guiding light, and guide others to get things perfect.

 

bb.  So therefore, since I was COMPLETELY UNABLE to buy Polyurethane, which is WHAT I WANTED, after reading all your good suggestions....  

 

I just got super tired at the store.

And I just bought any old thing, some sort of DECKING floor treatment.

 

bb2.  Also, this floor decking treatment was quite expensive....BELIEVE ME....

 

And I thought...

OK.

If this stuff is really THAT expensive...

Then it must be GREAT!

 

 

cc.  So, I just bought it....because...as I say....Poly was NOT in stock...and who knows why....

 

dd.  Well... I started early today, to use a foam brush (as was also suggested here) to coat the doors with one coat.

 

And then, after about 4 hours (I realize this is not long enough, but I was in a super hurry), I just brushed on a second coat.

 

ee.  And, during this process, the LAZADA foam brushes kept breaking.

 

AND, every time they broke, and while mopping up the mess....my hands became COVERED in this floor-decking treatment.

 

If you want to know, I am using this stuff called PROTEGO Decking Oil.....  And, I think it is SUPER GOOD...but....just don't get it on your hands...is all that I am saying!

 

USE A GOOD BRUSH!!!!

Don't buy what I bought, PLEASE!!!!

 

ff.  So anyway, after putting on two coats of this Decking OIL on the doors, I think everything will be HUNKY-DORY!

 

gg.  But, I still gotta warn you guys....

 

After getting this stuff all over my hands...

It's not so easy to get off.

 

Therefore, best to wear surgical gloves, or something, when using this stuff, and that is recommended.

 

gg2.  BUT, I had no surgical gloves...

 

And, I tried alcohol to wash it off, but no go.

Then, I tried two kinds of detergent....but no go.

And, still, my hands are sticky as HECK....

 

gg3.  You know...even if I wanted to give myself a handjob, which I NEVER do, I think it might be totally impossible.

 

hh.  Also, still know problem...because....

I only coated one surface of the doors, plus the edges.

 

And, therefore, maybe someday, I will find some Poly, and do the other side of the doors, and so....

No loss.

 

Wow, Man!

Talk about STICKY FINGERS!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

I think it might be WEEKS before my hands get back to normal....

 

AND...

 

Thank you guys for your great advice....

And, I just wish I had had the time and EXPERIENCE to follow your good advice.....

 

THANK YOU!!!

 

 

Best regards...

Gamma

 

PS: This is NOT a joke post.  All of the above is true.  I have photos.

 

PPS:  Speaking of STICKY FINGERS.....

 

 

This boner is a model.

Not Mick...

No Way!

 

 

 

This is what I use....

IT's OK!

 

 

Edited October 12, 2023 by GammaGlobulin

[GammaGlobulin]

Sure...

I know this door might look like crap to the experts....

 

But, at the moment....

 

Expediency is the name of the game for me....

 

Next time,

When I have more time....,

I will do better.

 

Please be kind in your critiques of my work....

Thank you.....!

 

[GammaGlobulin]

I am not saying that this is not a good product.

 

And, certainly, it seems to have done the job.

 

HOWEVER, if I had it to do over again....

 

I would NOT attempt this without wearing surgical gloves.

 

My hands are now so sticky...

And, this stuff just cannot be washed off the hands....

No Way

No How.

 

WEAR GLOVES!

 

 

Edited October 12, 2023 by GammaGlobulin

[GammaGlobulin]

By the way...guys....

 

I just want to say.....

 

I have been here in Asian for most of my life....

 

Since 1971.

 

And, SOME PEOPLE say that I post NONSENSE....

 

BUT, in my opinion, I do not.

 

I only write posts about what might be interesting to me.

 

So....

 

Anyone who wishes to NOT read my posts, then I have ZERO objections to your not reading them.

 

The ONLY thing I object to....is that SOME PEOPLE say I am posting NONSENSE.

 

THIS

IS

UNTRUE

 

I do NOT post nonsense...

And, I NEVER HAVE!

 

 

Besides being in Asia since 1971......

 

I also grew up on SOMERSET MAUGHAM.....

 

And so, I am just saying....

 

Some say that Somerset wrote nonsense....

 

And, for the guys that think that Somerset posted nonsense....

 

Then....

 

WHO is the fool?????

 

REALLY JERKS MY STRING (chain) when some NITWIT tells me I am posting NONSENSE....and....

Said nitwit has NO FEELING for what is important to me.....

 

Sorry for this rant....

But....

My fingers are just too sticky....

 

Take Care!

 

 

Edited October 12, 2023 by GammaGlobulin

[GammaGlobulin]

On 9/3/2023 at 11:11 AM, brianthainess said:

TAO Yacht varnish was used on all my wooden doors 5+years ago, Instruction are on the tin.

first coat is very thin,

second coat thinned

top coat thin a little bit.

I saw the TAO brand, today.

 

The clerk tole me that TAO was cheaper....

 

Not sure which brand is better, though.....

 

I ONLY know which brand is STICKIER!!!!!

 

 

Edited October 12, 2023 by GammaGlobulin

[GammaGlobulin]

 

Maybe...

Maybe one should just ask oneself....

 

What would Slocum use......?

 

 

[GammaGlobulin]

 

[GammaGlobulin]

Personally....

 

I do NOT think that Brown Sugar is NONSENSE....

 

Do you?

 

NONSENSE seems to be in the eye of the beholder.

 

And, unfortunately.....

 

There are a few here who CANNOT tell the difference between NONSENSE and SENSE....

 

 

[GammaGlobulin]

Do YOU feel like I do??????

 

 

 

What's WRONG with this place.....ANYWAY?

 

 

 

 

 

After all....

 

 

 

 

What IS....NONSENSE......Anyway???

 

Do you know?

Do you care?

Can you even define Nonsense?

 

And.... Is NONSENSE important for our wellbeing?

 

Where would YOU be without nonsense?

 

Go ask Alice.....

 

 

 

 

Edited October 12, 2023 by GammaGlobulin

[GammaGlobulin]

It's truly incredible just how BLUE COLLAR this place is.....

 

 

[ChaiyaTH]

Its 2023, you can literally ask this on chatgpt.com in 1000 ways personal.

 

Forget about nostalgia and skilled workers, AI will know best.

Edited October 12, 2023 by ChaiyaTH

[GammaGlobulin]

Peter Frampton.....

 

THEN and now....

 

Not nonsense....

Though some might say it is....

 

 

Edited October 12, 2023 by GammaGlobulin