2010 Kawasaki Ninja 650r Abs

[rizla]

Looking good,

are they plates made of steel or alloy?

It would be nice to see an attachment point to the frame half way along the round bar , as we all agree we cant contact both sides of the crash bars on the road at the same time, therefore the only points that seem to take the hit are the 2 bolts on each plate and the small area on the plates surrounding the bolts

[bluechipit]

Tony,

Where did you get the grab bar covers from?

Matt.

[BigBikeBKK]

Tony,

Where did you get the grab bar covers from?

Matt.

237 Baht each from your Kawasaki dealer

Available in Ebony Black, Lime Green and Metallic Island Blue.

Ride On!

Tony

[BigBikeBKK]

Looking good,

are they plates made of steel or alloy?

It would be nice to see an attachment point to the frame half way along the round bar , as we all agree we cant contact both sides of the crash bars on the road at the same time, therefore the only points that seem to take the hit are the 2 bolts on each plate and the small area on the plates surrounding the bolts

Plates are T6 Aluminum, Cross Bar is steel. Obviously can't crash both sides at the same time- that's why we added the steel cross bar to reinforce the plates that hold the sliders.

[rizla]

Looking good,

are they plates made of steel or alloy?

It would be nice to see an attachment point to the frame half way along the round bar , as we all agree we cant contact both sides of the crash bars on the road at the same time, therefore the only points that seem to take the hit are the 2 bolts on each plate and the small area on the plates surrounding the bolts

Plates are T6 Aluminum, Cross Bar is steel. Obviously can't crash both sides at the same time- that's why we added the steel cross bar to reinforce the plates that hold the sliders.

More cosmetic, than functional i suppose..that cross bar needs locked to the frame

[BigBikeBKK]

More cosmetic, than functional i suppose..that cross bar needs locked to the frame

It's locked to the frame with two aluminum plates and 4 bolts

[rizla]

Ah thats good to know.......and i`m sure the stood up really well in the engineering tests also? i presume they HAVE had tests?

Yep, they look ok for a tip off the side stand..but thats about it !

[BigBikeBKK]

Ah thats good to know.......and i`m sure the stood up really well in the engineering tests also? i presume they HAVE had tests?

Yep, they look ok for a tip off the side stand..but thats about it !

Yes, these sliders have already been tested (real life testing) and they've done fine in drops and low speed spills.

I don't know of any sliders that can withstand a high speed crash...

I've seen name brand sliders from the likes of R&G, Woodcraft and Puig fail miserably in low speed spills. When a mate suffered a slow speed fall on his FZ6 the sliders that Yamaha installed on his bike (can't remember what brand) cracked the frame!

I've read a bunch of reports on riderforums and kawiforums about big name sliders snapping off in crashes.

Personally with Kawasaki fairings so cheap here in Thailand I don't really see a need for sliders. But in places like the US where 650R uppers cost something like $300 I think it's probably worthwhile trying to protect them.

My personal opinion is that unless you're very lucky, most frame sliders won't offer much protection in anything more than a drop or a low speed fall.

Ride On!

Tony

[BigBikeBKK]

Kawasaki Ninja 650R ER6f Motorcycle Fairing Removal Instructions 2009-2011

Removing the fairings from the new model Kawasaki Ninja is not very easy or obvious.

I've put together these instructions which I hope you might find useful.

Before you begin please make sure you have a clean, well lit workplace and the proper tools.

Step 1) Remove the lower fairings- this is pretty simple so I didn't take pictures. Let's call this a test. If you have trouble removing your lower fairings I recommend you do NOT try to remove your upper fairings.

Step 2) Remove the 4 bolts that hold your windscreen and remove the windsceen.

Step 3) Remove the two plastic locking pins (rivets) that hold this plastic meter cowling in place:

Remove the meter cowling:

Step 4) Remove the plastic locking pins (rivets) and socket bolts and then remove the inner cowlings on right and left sides:

Step 5) Disconnect headlights, turn signals and running lights:

Please note- the two headlight connectors pull off, the other four connections feature locking connectors so you need to unlock them before you pull them apart.

Step 6) Remove the bolts that hold the left and right Center Cowlings and the bolts that hold the upper fairings to the frame. (Refer to pictures below)

Left Side:

Right Side:

Step 7) Remove the Center Cowlings-

Left:

Right:

Step 8) Remove the left and right socket bolts that were hidden behind the Left and Right Center Cowlings:

Step 9) Disconnect the Meter:

Pull off the rubber boot, then unlock and remove the plug from the meter:

Step 10) Gently pull the left and right fairing tabs out of the rubber frame grommets:

Step 11) Remove the 3 6x12 bolts that attach the Meter Bracket to the Main Cowling Bracket:

Careful! Once you remove these bolts your fairings will be detached from the motorcycle. The mirrors, turn signals, headlight assembly and meter bracket are all still attached to the upper fairings so it's a bit heavy- careful it doesn't fall when you remove the bolts that attach the Meter Bracket to the Main Cowling Bracket.

Step 12) Remove the Upper Fairings- gently pull the entire assembly forward until it is clear of the bike.

You might want to have an extra set of hands to help you with this last step, or at the very least cover your front fender with a towel to save it from scratches if you drop the upper fairing assembly onto your fender.

JOB DONE!!!

Re-assembly is the opposite of dis-assembly.

Taking apart the upper fairing assembly (ie. removing the Meter, Headlight Assembly and Mirrors) is a task to be covered on another page- If you've gotten this far I'd bet you can figure it out on your own.

Hope you find this guide useful! I welcome any comments or constructive criticism!

Ride On!

Tony

[Garry]

Nice 'How To' Tony..will cetainly help the lads make a possible difficult chore that bit easier.

[dollarman]

I just got a 650R with two brothers exhaust, and since the Kawasaki service people is pretty useless and lazy if it is not service time for the bike, I have to ask here. The bike makes "bang" sounds from the exhaust if I let the bike slow down by giving much less or no throttle. Maybe air? Is this normal? Or is the lambda or something not installed properly?

[thaicbr]

:DFrom what i have read its ya 2 bros exhaust making the bike run a little lean on the overrun.

But this is what i found on a Triumph forum.

" Most popping and banging on overrun is caused by an air leak somewhere in the exhaust which causes unburnt fuel to ignite."

So make sure the exhaust is sealed and hasn't got an air leak.

Could be both or other things. someone else will be along shortly to explain more

Edited July 22, 2010 by thaicbr

[ScubaBuddha]

I just got a 650R with two brothers exhaust, and since the Kawasaki service people is pretty useless and lazy if it is not service time for the bike, I have to ask here. The bike makes "bang" sounds from the exhaust if I let the bike slow down by giving much less or no throttle. Maybe air? Is this normal? Or is the lambda or something not installed properly?

So I am guessing you are the one that got Nicks bike then? And that was probably you I saw blasting through Kata beach about 9pm? That 2 bro's is definitely louder than my Arrow. And the popping (backfireing) was very noticeable. Mine does the exact same.

The popping, as I understand it, (as Tony (BigbikeBKK) explained it earlier in this or the ER6n thread) is due to the emissions control. The stock can has I think 2 catalytic converters in it which under certain conditions "recycle" (literally) and re-burn some exhaust. The bike actually pops just as much with the stock can as with the aftermarket, it's just 1/10th the volume because it's done in the catalytyc converter(s). Your 2 Bro's and my Arrow have just the one chamber so the backfireing escapes directly out the exhaust. If during the night you look down just as you roll on the throttle you will see blue flames shooting out when it pops. The fix for this is plugging the PAIR valve, (search back in this thread for Tony's instructions). There are a couple steps to plugging the pair valve which greatly reduces or eliminates the backfiring. Thus far Katabeachbum and I have done about half of what we need to to stop the popping in our Ninja's. These elusive caps which Tony used we can't seem to find here in Phuket, plus looking at Tony's pictures I can't quite as of yet connect the dots in his photos to figure out the last step. KBB and I have been meaning to get together and finish this. You are welcome to join if you are in Phuket.

EDIT: Just checked and I see from you other posts that you are in Phuket..so that must have been you I saw.

Edited July 22, 2010 by ScubaBuddha

[bluechipit]

If anyone is after 3 of the silicone caps to plug the PEAR valve. I have 2 spare ones here they can have for free. Just PM me.

The silicone caps come in packs of 3, so you have to buy 2 packs as you need 4 to do the procedure.

I'm going to plug my PAIR valve this weekend, pull the air-baffles out and fit my new power commander v.

I wish I could say I was enthusiastic about doing this but I'm not any more since my friend died 5 days ago in a motorbike accident on the mainland.

Matt.

[dollarman]

I just got a 650R with two brothers exhaust, and since the Kawasaki service people is pretty useless and lazy if it is not service time for the bike, I have to ask here. The bike makes "bang" sounds from the exhaust if I let the bike slow down by giving much less or no throttle. Maybe air? Is this normal? Or is the lambda or something not installed properly?

So I am guessing you are the one that got Nicks bike then? And that was probably you I saw blasting through Kata beach about 9pm? That 2 bro's is definitely louder than my Arrow. And the popping (backfireing) was very noticeable. Mine does the exact same.

The popping, as I understand it, (as Tony (BigbikeBKK) explained it earlier in this or the ER6n thread) is due to the emissions control. The stock can has I think 2 catalytic converters in it which under certain conditions "recycle" (literally) and re-burn some exhaust. The bike actually pops just as much with the stock can as with the aftermarket, it's just 1/10th the volume because it's done in the catalytyc converter(s). Your 2 Bro's and my Arrow have just the one chamber so the backfireing escapes directly out the exhaust. If during the night you look down just as you roll on the throttle you will see blue flames shooting out when it pops. The fix for this is plugging the PAIR valve, (search back in this thread for Tony's instructions). There are a couple steps to plugging the pair valve which greatly reduces or eliminates the backfiring. Thus far Katabeachbum and I have done about half of what we need to to stop the popping in our Ninja's. These elusive caps which Tony used we can't seem to find here in Phuket, plus looking at Tony's pictures I can't quite as of yet connect the dots in his photos to figure out the last step. KBB and I have been meaning to get together and finish this. You are welcome to join if you are in Phuket.

EDIT: Just checked and I see from you other posts that you are in Phuket..so that must have been you I saw.

yeah, that must have been me. I think I gave some of the tourists and tuk tuk drivers permanent hearing damage on my rampage yesterday;) Fire sounds nice though, but not the popping. Thanks for the explanation, I thought there were something wrong with the lambda or something. I will have to look into earlier in this thread.

[bluechipit]

I just followed this guide to plug my pair valve and also pulled the airbox baffles. Will fit the power commander v tomorrow when I have some time.

Matt.

Pair Valve.pdf

[bluechipit]

Forgot to add you actually only require 2 of these plugs and not four! (this will save you 550 baht - the cost of a packet of these plugs from autobacs)

You don't require plugs for the outlets for the the hose between the airbox cover and the air switch valve, this hose can remain in place as long as the outlet of the air switch valve and the inlet of the air suction valve are capped.

Matt.

[bluechipit]

Also forgot to add that I removed my sub-throttle plates... Will test the bike out tomorrow and then later fit the power commander v. Need to order the autotune unit for it next and then I'm done with playing around with the bike.

Matt.

[dollarman]

I just followed this guide to plug my pair valve and also pulled the airbox baffles. Will fit the power commander v tomorrow when I have some time.

Matt.

Did you buy the pair valves in koh Samui, Krabi or somewhere else?

[bluechipit]

The pair valve is on the bike, it's the piece you seal off with silicone caps.

You can buy the silicone caps from Autobacs in Bangkok. They're around 550 baht for a pack of 3. You only require one pack of caps as you can do this modification with 2 caps.

Matt.

[dollarman]

ok, i guess i dont need it anymore since my two brother exhaust is gone! The outer tube is gone, the rest is there, can it have fallen of?<br><br>

Edited July 24, 2010 by dollarman

[bluechipit]

&lt;deleted&gt;?! Did someone steal your exhaust?

I'm sure you would have noticed if it had fallen off whilst driving along...

Matt.

[dollarman]

This one is still on, so maybe it just did fall off..

[Garry]

ok, i guess i dont need it anymore since my two brother exhaust is gone! The outer tube is gone, the rest is there, can it have fallen of?<br><br>

&lt;deleted&gt;?! Did someone steal your exhaust?

I'm sure you would have noticed if it had fallen off whilst driving along...

Matt.

Dammnn..!!!!

[ScubaBuddha]

Whoa man...thats crazy. I think someone tried to to nick it. Or maybe your neighbor didn't like the sound of it?

If you don't have the original can, you can use mine if you want to.

[dollarman]

Thanks man, but I have the original here, But the original is so quiet and shy:(

Is it easy to install or should I wait till the bike shops open up again on Wednesday?

I guess the neighbors would wait more than two days before they got fed up with the sound;)

Edited July 25, 2010 by dollarman

[dollarman]

Can the Xena alarm http://www.redbaronbkk.com/products/item.php?id=081129-0000344 be ordered from any web shops here in Thailand?

[ScubaBuddha]

Swapping cans is exceedingly easy and intuitive. Less than one hour with minimal tools.

Can Red Baron not ship to you? Or did you mean you want to order it from a website that is located outside Thailand? You're likely get some import duty that way but still might be cheaper than buying it here.

[dollarman]

Swapping cans is exceedingly easy and intuitive. Less than one hour with minimal tools.

Can Red Baron not ship to you? Or did you mean you want to order it from a website that is located outside Thailand? You're likely get some import duty that way but still might be cheaper than buying it here.

That means 2-3 hours for me.. hehe

I did not see any check out or something like that at the redbaron site. But I will send an email to the company.

[thaicbr]

www.pandarider.com sole distributor of Xena disc locks.