My CBR 150 project.....

[Overandout]

So, I have now endured nearly 5 months of riding around on my decrepit old CBR. In that time I have not washed it, not lubed or tightened the chain, not checked any fluid levels or indeed performed any form of maintenance other than putting in petrol and air in the tyres.

The plan to turn the bike into a super trick, modified, snarling, special has remained as a figment of my imagination with the exception of the purchase of a second CBR which had already been modified, used, abused and left to rot. This donor bike was delivered into my enthusiastic hands a few months back and has since sat under a cover collecting even more corrosion and wildlife. I should add my thanks to the previous owner for letting me have the bike for a reasonable price and delivering to me, but I'll leave it up to him if he wants to identify himself!

So the time has come to take the patients and turn two sorry looking turds into something which, although may not win any awards, will at least give me enough pride to warrant keeping it clean and maintaining it.

Here are the patients in their original state.

[Overandout]

First scheduled activity is to strip the donor bike and see exactly what bits are useable, dismantle them, clean/refurbish them and keep them for later.

Here is a better view of the donor as it was when I took the cover off.

The intention, or perhaps the word “hope” is more appropriate, is to use at least the wheels and swing arm (from an NSR 150), rear shock, the USD forks (unknown origin at the moment) and yolks, brakes, rear-sets, flat clip-ons, exhaust, mirrors, lights, quick action throttle, upgraded ECU, seat and seat hump, and anything else which appears to be better than the current running bike.

As far as the engine is concerned, I have been told by the previous owner that the bike was laid up due to a major engine failure, probably cam related, so it’s unlikely that much of the engine will be useable. This is a shame because it seems that there is some sort of over-bore kit in it, so I’m kind of hoping that at least the barrel will be salvageable. Regardless, I will strip the engine for curiosity and to store only the useable bottom end parts, so expect some major internal destruction photos to appear at some time in the future.

[Overandout]

So far I have started to remove the “easy” items.

I need to leave the rolling chassis intact for as long as possible for ease of moving the bike around.

The removed items consist mainly of all of the parts mounted to the front sub-frame.

Of these the clocks are in the worst state, with major water damage, loose electronic components rattling around inside with various dead insect, so these are fit only for the bin. The top faring is also scrap. Mirrors are good, headlight needs a quick refurb but is pretty good. The sub-frame itself had one of the mounting bolts snap off inside the captive nut but apart from that it is straight and OK. It remains to be seen how easy it will be to remove the snapped bolt, but I don’t actually need it anyway.

[Overandout]

Also removed are the brakes, front and rear, front mudguard (which is some strange imitation carbon fibre thing which was mounted high on the forks to allow for the travel of the USD forks, I will look for a better solution for a front mudguard), exhaust (a custom made front section looks well made and is very light but was full of water), the rear-sets (which are a bit scuffed up but should be ok after a brush up), the chain guard and passenger foot rest hangers.

The good news is that whilst removing these parts I could have a good look at the fitment of the suspension components and it seems that any engineering work which may have been done seems to be OK. The chain run looks straight, so the rear wheel is probably centred OK, forks are parallel and the steering is smooth with no play in the bearings. The only issue is the lack of lock-stops which means that the bars have smashed into the tank repeatedly, leaving the tank in pretty poor shape.

So this is how the donor stands at the moment, meanwhile I continue to rattle about Bangkok on the running bike....

Stay tuned for the next instalment (when / if I get any time.....)

Edited January 25, 2014 by Overandout

[mania]

Looks like a fun project & I am looking forward to watching your progress.

That donor bike has some pretty trick stuff on it.

Someone once put a lot of time & effort into that bike.

Good Luck!

[schondie]

I'll be following this one, looks interesting. Nice photos and well explained.

Over and out for tonight, overandout

[paz]

May I ask, how old are you ?

And/or, would you do such a "project" in your home country and then drive around on it ?

[Overandout]

May I ask, how old are you ?

And/or, would you do such a "project" in your home country and then drive around on it ?

I'm not sure that I understand the motives behind these (alcohol fuelled?) questions but anyway I feel strangely compelled to respond.

Firstly my age does not have an influence in my choice to do what I am doing, but it is not a secret of the state, I am 40. My first bike after getting my licence was an RG250 which required a lot of work to get it rideable, which was my first attempt at fixing up a bike. After that I have had many bikes including an FZ 750 with a 17" rear wheel from a ZZR600 fitted at the rear to replace the standard 18" item. I then fitted an FZR750 17" front end to match which involved buiding a bespoke set of forks from various components. It worked well.

My last bike in Europe was a GSXR 750, also lightly modified. The BMW E30 in my avatar pic was rescued from certain scrap heap doom by myself. I rebuilt the top end of the engine, repaired a lot of the internal wiring, dash, seats, suspension, brakes etc.

I have done this throughout my life as I have felt the desire to do so. I think you will find that many people with an interest in engineering feel the same motivations and embark on such "projects".

You appear to have classified my "project" according to some unknown arbitrary criteria.

Is it because of the type of bike? Well this is the type of bike that suits my needs in Bangkok. Would I have chosen a similar bike in Europe? No. Unlikely.

Is it the bike I would have chosen first of? No. I would have liked a two stroke, but the CBR came up as a convemient purchase, call it fate if you want.

Is it becuase I am fiting non-standard parts? Well that's part of the challenge.

Do I really care what you or others think? Of course not. I'm putting this thread up for anyone who might enjoy the read, find inspiration, even find amusement in what I am trying to do.

I kind of hope that I satisfied some of your curiosity, but if I haven't and you still feel that you would like me to explain myself further, please don't get offended if I choose to ignore you.

Edited January 26, 2014 by Overandout

[ll2]

cool overandout.

i was expecting updates from you.

my heart ache when i see the donor bike. hope you can use many of the parts on it.

sorry for the tank though

i am sure the result will be good.

also check the carb on the donor bike. it might be a better one than stock.

for front upside down suspensions, you might need to get some new springs and oil. also check if they can fix the rear shock as it is an expensive one.

i ll follow this thread forever!

[ll2]

May I ask, how old are you ?

And/or, would you do such a "project" in your home country and then drive around on it ?

nonsense!

actually, we have to ask you the same question.

how old are you to say these?

we are all individuals and we do whatever we like and who you are to judge!?

[Overandout]

cool overandout.

i was expecting updates from you.

my heart ache when i see the donor bike. hope you can use many of the parts on it.

sorry for the tank though

i am sure the result will be good.

also check the carb on the donor bike. it might be a better one than stock.

for front upside down suspensions, you might need to get some new springs and oil. also check if they can fix the rear shock as it is an expensive one.

i ll follow this thread forever!

Ha ha!

I knew you'd been waiting for this!

Its a small start but its a start. I'd forgotten about the carb, partly becasue I assumed it was set up for the bigger piston, which will probably be scrap, but yes, I'll be investigating the black art of carburettion depending on how the engine ends up.

Thanks for your help so far!

Edited January 26, 2014 by Overandout

[dutchrdam]

Great to see and will follow your steps closely if you publish here

[paz]

Thank you to the OP for answering, and have fun.

[AllanB]

I think it is really good idea starting a project with a running engine and gearbox, I have seen a few projects where the bike has been fettled and polished only to find the thing don't run.

Be interested to follow your progress, good luck.

[Overandout]

So here is my second installment, a bit short but anyway, progress is progress....

Staying with the donor bike, this time it was the turn of the rear sub-frame components to be stripped. This time I had some help!

Anyway we got all the seat panels off, they’re a bit scuffed up but worth keeping as spares, the seat hump is good apart from the paint and the rubber mounting pad that was missing was found trapped in the wiring loom, so that was a result! Rear lights are also much better than on the running bike. The rear mudguard / under seat tray is a bit duffed up but could be used. We stripped all the electrical components off the sub-frame and got the loom out of the way, but I haven’t checked any of the electrical parts yet.

I was surprised to see an original Honda battery in there, but two days connected to an Optimate and no result spells bin time for that OEM part.

We also took the battered old tank off, which seems to be full of old fuel. The pipes to the carb were all gummed up with jellied old petrol which doesn’t bode well for the carb itself...

I tried to open the fuel tank to see exactly how much petrol there was and this happened:

The only key! Will try to find someone who can make a copy from the bits to save the lock set. So for now the tank is still full of fuel, mainly because I have no idea what to do with the old petrol once I get it out... putting it down the drain doesn't seem like the done thing, even in Thailand...

So here’s the donor bike as it now stands.

[KRS1]

change the fuel valve. Its a common fault on these bikes and one that any Honda dealership will happily misdiagnose as valve problems/timing issues to screw you - 550 baht.

[ll2]

So here is my second installment, a bit short but anyway, progress is progress....

Staying with the donor bike, this time it was the turn of the rear sub-frame components to be stripped. This time I had some help!

Anyway we got all the seat panels off, they’re a bit scuffed up but worth keeping as spares, the seat hump is good apart from the paint and the rubber mounting pad that was missing was found trapped in the wiring loom, so that was a result! Rear lights are also much better than on the running bike. The rear mudguard / under seat tray is a bit duffed up but could be used. We stripped all the electrical components off the sub-frame and got the loom out of the way, but I haven’t checked any of the electrical parts yet.

I was surprised to see an original Honda battery in there, but two days connected to an Optimate and no result spells bin time for that OEM part.

We also took the battered old tank off, which seems to be full of old fuel. The pipes to the carb were all gummed up with jellied old petrol which doesn’t bode well for the carb itself...

I tried to open the fuel tank to see exactly how much petrol there was and this happened:

The only key! Will try to find someone who can make a copy from the bits to save the lock set. So for now the tank is still full of fuel, mainly because I have no idea what to do with the old petrol once I get it out... putting it down the drain doesn't seem like the done thing, even in Thailand...

So here’s the donor bike as it now stands.

good job.

dont forget, brake lines are braided steel and they are expensive!

carb might be gone and surprised for the petrol in the tank. they fix the tank for cheap but you wait for sometime.

this thread makes me excited!

[KRS1]

see what kind of cdi it has...

stick a velocity stack inside the airbox at the carb inlet. ;)

cut the paper out of the air filter and stick the foam element from a ninja 250 in there ;)

Edited February 6, 2014 by KRS1

[ll2]

see what kind of cdi it has...

stick a velocity stack inside the airbox at the carb inlet.

cut the paper out of the air filter and stick the foam element from a ninja 250 in there

it has an aftermarket ecu in it which also eliminates the redline.

[KRS1]

see what kind of cdi it has...

stick a velocity stack inside the airbox at the carb inlet.

cut the paper out of the air filter and stick the foam element from a ninja 250 in there

it has an aftermarket ecu in it which also eliminates the redline.

i couldnt really tell from all the dirt on there 555

but it looks like the plug is straight back, and i think the original cdi plug bends down. If its blue its api (2 graph)...iif its red its panom, but built by api...if its black its api stock graph but no rev limit.

[AllanB]

Watching this with interest too.....

Use the old petrol for cleaning, if it is in liquid form.

[ll2]

see what kind of cdi it has...

stick a velocity stack inside the airbox at the carb inlet.

cut the paper out of the air filter and stick the foam element from a ninja 250 in there

it has an aftermarket ecu in it which also eliminates the redline.

i couldnt really tell from all the dirt on there 555

but it looks like the plug is straight back, and i think the original cdi plug bends down. If its blue its api (2 graph)...iif its red its panom, but built by api...if its black its api stock graph but no rev limit.

It is a 'kitty' something ecu. Dont remember the full name but sure it was starting with 'kitty'.

It gives good power with k&n air filter, direct pipe and jetted carbu and no rev limiter so you can rev the bike like 13.000 rpm. But than cams get problems.

Overandout, i strongly suggest stronger cams with a faster angle.

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Thaivisa Connect Thailand mobile app

[KRS1]

see what kind of cdi it has...

stick a velocity stack inside the airbox at the carb inlet.

cut the paper out of the air filter and stick the foam element from a ninja 250 in there

it has an aftermarket ecu in it which also eliminates the redline.

i couldnt really tell from all the dirt on there 555

but it looks like the plug is straight back, and i think the original cdi plug bends down. If its blue its api (2 graph)...iif its red its panom, but built by api...if its black its api stock graph but no rev limit.

It is a 'kitty' something ecu. Dont remember the full name but sure it was starting with 'kitty'.

It gives good power with k&n air filter, direct pipe and jetted carbu and no rev limiter so you can rev the bike like 13.000 rpm. But than cams get problems.

Overandout, i strongly suggest stronger cams with a faster angle.

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Thaivisa Connect Thailand mobile app

kittisak, still built by api.

im cheering for increased stroke

crank pin is like 550 baht.

Edited February 8, 2014 by KRS1

[papa al]

Hello all. Hope it's ok to jump in.

I bought a 2nd hand 'baby ceeb' 2008 recently from Ko Samui with low miles (7kkm.) It did a lot of sitting between owner's visits to LOS.

Problem 1: When I had nice new Michelin Street Pilots fitted and balanced (required 45grams on rear!) here in Pattaya (2600baht), I noticed that the chain was funky...stiff and rusty looking... so I though "replace".

The sprocket looked good.

Mityon (new shop opposite soi 10 Pattaya Tai) said must replace chain and sprockets as a set. Cost of B2600for original type, or B1200 if using compatable set designed for new CBR150FI model.

I think the price difference must be because the older version has O-ring design and the newer, not. ??

So for now I'm not changing, rather I am trying to salvage old chain by frequent douching with anti-rust spray and usage on the road.

It seems to be loosening up, ie., becoming more flexible.

I have put ~200km on it so far.

Problem 2: The tank is dented and I'd like to find a local body shop to repair and re-spray, as Mityon wanted B4200 for unpainted replacement.

Seemed too expensive. (Cheap Charlie)

Any feedback on these problems would be appreciated.

This little bike runs and handles great...I very like.

I hope to borrow a GPS and take it out fop a top speed trial soon.

Ride safe!

[seedy]

Good stuff. Keep it up.

If you are storing the old engine, or parts of it, submerge in diesel fuel. Keeps the air away, so no corrosion, and easy to remove when time to use again.

Had my bike stored in basement, town got flooded, basement full of water, took complete CanAm engine apart and stored it this way.

Worked well - and cheap.

[sate ayam]

interesting topic

hows the progress?

think i got myself a project too; cbr does only 120 (130 with chin on tank), gets 32 km to the liter

and makes the sound of death........rattling, coughing, irregular idling, uses 1 liter/1000km, still redlines with ease although i noticed it's getting there less quickly

so maybe the time has come to have the top end overhauled at the dealer, anyone familiar with prices ?

Edited March 30, 2014 by sate ayam

[Overandout]

interesting topic

hows the progress?

think i got myself a project too; cbr does only 120 (130 with chin on tank), gets 32 km to the liter

and makes the sound of death........rattling, coughing, irregular idling, uses 1 liter/1000km, still redlines with ease although i noticed it's getting there less quickly

so maybe the time has come to have the top end overhauled at the dealer, anyone familiar with prices ?

Thanks for the interest... progress on my project is slow, but I have made further inroads into dismantling the donor bike (I just haven't got round to writing anything or uploading the photos yet) I'll post another update soon!

Your bike sounds similar to my running bike, except that I don't know if it uses oil or not because I've never checked.... Mine will also sometimes just splutter and die if left ticking over for a while

But I doubt that mine would get to the redline, and given the noise and vibration I'm not sure that I'd want to try.

Top speed isn't really a good way to compare two old bikes anyway as you never know what has been done to the gearing over the years.

Having read of the experiences of others about engine work at dealers (See KRS1's recent thread about hs 250), I can only recommend that you do it yourself.

[papa al]

"Top speed isn't really a good way to compare two old bikes anyway as you never know what has been done to the gearing over the years."

You can count the teeth on the sprockets and compare to original configuration.

Looking forward to your updates.

I love the carb baby ceebers.

I've got mine running strong & looking sweet now.

Thinking Cambodian trip for Songkran.

[KRS1]

like papa al says, check to see if they are the original sprockets. OEM sizes are 15/44....no other combination works as good all around - i tried them all.

14/44 is good in the city, but on the highway youll lose quite a bit of top end.

Also the exhaust on the carb cbr 150 can not be too large....the only exhaust i know for a fact that will add performance is the Tsukigi KRK set up, there are probably others, but i know this one for sure.

Edited March 31, 2014 by KRS1

[seedy]

Nice one. Keep us posted.