My CBR 150 project.....

[papa al]

KRS1:

"Also the exhaust on the carb cbr 150 can not be too large..."

Clarify please; do you mean 'the bigger the better', or 'beware of bigger'?

I'm told that drilling a 7mm hole in the rear plate of muffler will improve breathing and performance, without being too loud.

Can such a dinky mod work?

The price seems right...~free.

[KRS1]

some muffler shops modify the muffler by taking out the baffles and running a straight tube through, about an inch in diameter - much too big for this bike. The tsukigi KRK is a baffled muffler, but the first baffle is about a centimeter closer to the downpipe inlet at the mouth of the muffler.

There is also a specially designed ring at the muffler inlet that has a series of holes drilled in it.

The downpipe also has a catalytic convertor inside it, you can bore it out...or just get the entire KRK set up....but you have to get the welds reinforced by arc welding the last few curves by the muffler.

If you are going to drill anything id start by boring out the cat from the downpipe....Throw a NGK CR9EGP in there too, it has a stronger spark and aids in high RPM combustion...air screw 2.75 - 3.25 turns out, stock comes in at around 1.5-2 turns.

[ll2]

some muffler shops modify the muffler by taking out the baffles and running a straight tube through, about an inch in diameter - much too big for this bike. The tsukigi KRK is a baffled muffler, but the first baffle is about a centimeter closer to the downpipe inlet at the mouth of the muffler.

There is also a specially designed ring at the muffler inlet that has a series of holes drilled in it.

The downpipe also has a catalytic convertor inside it, you can bore it out...or just get the entire KRK set up....but you have to get the welds reinforced by arc welding the last few curves by the muffler.

If you are going to drill anything id start by boring out the cat from the downpipe....Throw a NGK CR9EGP in there too, it has a stronger spark and aids in high RPM combustion...air screw 2.75 - 3.25 turns out, stock comes in at around 1.5-2 turns.

exactly. that is why i did not change the stock on but modified it.

Tsukigi is good enough for these bikes but OP can use the stock after modifying it a bit.

[HooHaa]

is that pro arm rear?

taken from an old NSR perhaps?

[sate ayam]

The downpipe also has a catalytic convertor inside it, you can bore it out...or just get the entire KRK set up....but you have to get the welds reinforced by arc welding the last few curves by the muffler.

If you are going to drill anything id start by boring out the cat from the downpipe....Throw a NGK CR9EGP in there too, it has a stronger spark and aids in high RPM combustion...air screw 2.75 - 3.25 turns out, stock comes in at around 1.5-2 turns

@krs1 your old topic has been archived. just wondering how the altering of the carburation turned out, any (mayor) improvement while using a bigger carbie?

do you still provide the service for modifying carby cbr's?

[Overandout]

is that pro arm rear?

taken from an old NSR perhaps?

Yes, as stated in my second post of the thread....

[KRS1]

The downpipe also has a catalytic convertor inside it, you can bore it out...or just get the entire KRK set up....but you have to get the welds reinforced by arc welding the last few curves by the muffler.

If you are going to drill anything id start by boring out the cat from the downpipe....Throw a NGK CR9EGP in there too, it has a stronger spark and aids in high RPM combustion...air screw 2.75 - 3.25 turns out, stock comes in at around 1.5-2 turns

@krs1 your old topic has been archived. just wondering how the altering of the carburation turned out, any (mayor) improvement while using a bigger carbie?

do you still provide the service for modifying carby cbr's?

the carb is not the most crucial element, the other things are

sorry, i dont do mods for people anymore.....people keep trying to pay me in beer.

[ll2]

is that pro arm rear?

taken from an old NSR perhaps?

Yes, as stated in my second post of the thread....

very very hard to find now and actually, those single sided nsr150 pro arms can be used with the current new model honda cbr150 as well.

Seen one new model cbr150r with a polished single sided proarm and rim, it was looking perfect! Actually, my plan was buying a new model injected cbr150 and to transfer the parts on my old cbr150r to it but later decided not to and sell it to the good gentleman OP which appreciates the parts and like bikes so it went to someone who will really use these parts and i can watch the progress which i am so glad.

Thanks overandout and waiting for the new updates.

[papa al]

is that pro arm rear?

taken from an old NSR perhaps?

Question:

Is the unilateral swing arm system functionally superior or just cosmetically?

Thanks.

[ll2]

is that pro arm rear?

taken from an old NSR perhaps?

Question:

Is the unilateral swing arm system functionally superior or just cosmetically?

Thanks.

Critics say double sided swingarm is better that is why all moto gp bikes has double sided swingarm for more rigidity.

But nothing beats the looks and pracricality of a single sided swingarm and i am sure we cannot understand the difference much between them.

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Thaivisa Connect Thailand mobile app

[Overandout]

is that pro arm rear?

taken from an old NSR perhaps?

Question:

Is the unilateral swing arm system functionally superior or just cosmetically?

Thanks.

Critics say double sided swingarm is better that is why all moto gp bikes has double sided swingarm for more rigidity.

But nothing beats the looks and pracricality of a single sided swingarm and i am sure we cannot understand the difference much between them.

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Thaivisa Connect Thailand mobile app

Don't forget the better tyres that are available for the Pro Arm rear compared to the original rim.

But yes, looks is the main driver! One of my future challenges is to move the exhaust to the left of the bike to fully appreciate the single sided arm's qualities (looks and practicalities).

[papa al]

Thanks for the feedback LL & Over...

Please expand on the "practicalities"...

Edited April 4, 2014 by papa al

[papa al]

I know most of the inexpensive little scooters have used the unilateral swing-arm & coil-over-shock design, but lately the heavier, 'more powerful' 125 Clicks have a right arm too.

[ll2]

pro arm.pngThanks for the feedback LL & Over...

Please expand on the "practicalities"...

easier to change the tire and to cleans the rims!

[mania]

easier to change the tire and to cleans the rims!

I know "they" say that & I did too but.....watching endurance races like suzuka,lemans etc & they are not popular at all.

So I think mainly cosmetic

I think they look great

BUT, tell you what I do not like about them....

having the oily chain near the rear brake disc

[Shurup]

Thinking Cambodian trip for Songkran.

Great idea, I'd be up for it too but once again the work is getting in a way. I'll return to LOS during the Songkran and will keep the bike parked until the silly celebration is over.

Sent from a Nuclear Submarine.

[paz]

Why KRS1 is off the forum, does anybody know ?

[Overandout]

So here are some pictures of the latest progress.

The last time in the parking lot saw the airbox removed (with a decent original K&N filter inside).

Also removed were all the other anciliaries under the tank, cable connectors, tubes, pipes, thermostat housing and tubes.

Then the radiator was removed, then engine oil drained and finally the engine dropped out, leaving this:

So work continues upstairs on the balcony of my apartment.

Engine in place!

Has a quick look inside the carb bowl, a bit mucky, but I've seen worse.

Here is the "famous" ECU, as it was upon removal.

And after a srub up:

The thermostat was really mucky so I gave the radiator a really good soak and clean.

Then, I just couldn't resist taking a quick look at the motor....

Cam cover off and it doesn't look so bad... cams are slightly marked, but not detectable with the finger-nail micrometer.

BUT then I realised....

Than can chain is not seated on the cam gear for the EX cam....

Watch this space!!

[fatdrunkandstupid]

So work continues upstairs on the balcony of my apartment.

[Overandout]

So work continues upstairs on the balcony of my apartment.

I think being British exludes me from being a redneck...

Please, from now on call me a pikey!

In my defense, it is the service balcony....

[fatdrunkandstupid]

So work continues upstairs on the balcony of my apartment.

I think being British exludes me from being a redneck...

Please, from now on call me a pikey!

In my defense, it is the service balcony....

Why don't you store everything in the fire exit. When in Rome....

[Overandout]

So work continues upstairs on the balcony of my apartment.

I think being British exludes me from being a redneck...

Please, from now on call me a pikey!

In my defense, it is the service balcony....

Why don't you store everything in the fire exit. When in Rome....

Because my pikey / redneck neighbours have beaten me to it... To get to the fire escape I have to negotiate an old fold-away guest bed, half a dozen wooden crates, a 2m long venetian blind, some plastic piping and a dismantled piece of chip-board furniture.

As you can tell, they are significantly ahead of me in the redneck stakes. I need help.

[fatdrunkandstupid]

Because my pikey / redneck neighbours have beaten me to it... To get to the fire escape I have to negotiate an old fold-away guest bed, half a dozen wooden crates, a 2m long venetian blind, some plastic piping and a dismantled piece of chip-board furniture.

As you can tell, they are significantly ahead of me in the redneck stakes. I need help.

Or a fire...

[ll2]

So here are some pictures of the latest progress.

The last time in the parking lot saw the airbox removed (with a decent original K&N filter inside).

Also removed were all the other anciliaries under the tank, cable connectors, tubes, pipes, thermostat housing and tubes.

Then the radiator was removed, then engine oil drained and finally the engine dropped out, leaving this:

So work continues upstairs on the balcony of my apartment.

Engine in place!

Has a quick look inside the carb bowl, a bit mucky, but I've seen worse.

Here is the "famous" ECU, as it was upon removal.

And after a srub up:

The thermostat was really mucky so I gave the radiator a really good soak and clean.

Then, I just couldn't resist taking a quick look at the motor....

Cam cover off and it doesn't look so bad... cams are slightly marked, but not detectable with the finger-nail micrometer.

BUT then I realised....

Than can chain is not seated on the cam gear for the EX cam....

Watch this space!!

not a good feeling too see my ex gf without underwear:(

but glad the work is in progress and she is in good hands!

checking the cam chain and it might be the problem why it does not work but i remember carb needle broken and went inside the engine. please check that out as it is a common problem on this bike. happened twice to me but luckily, engine was not destroyed. cams are new not the stock ones so they are fine.

it is surprising to see the head in that good clean condition!

ecu sure works but you need to give k&n air filter a good clean. they sell original k&n filter cleaners for cheap.

keep the good work overandout!

Edited April 7, 2014 by ll2

[sate ayam]

removed the muffler

intented to drill out the catalist converter but all i saw was one big empty hole

i guess somchai removed it already

tried to upload a picture here but can't find a way how to do it

[sate ayam]

does anyone know the function of that big cannister which is located in front of the shock?

whats the function and can it be removed without consequences?

watercooling/electronic ignition/4 valves/air circulation/cat converter.....bla di bla

all complicated stuff for an old xt500 rider

[seedy]

Can't see from here ...

But maybe a charcoal canister for emissions. Absorbs the fuel vapour.

If so - remove no problem. Plug any lines after making them as short as possible, or remove and seal the ends.

Or plug with silicone after making sure all oil and grease removed - give it a shot of contact or brake cleaner.

[Overandout]

Progress to the CBR Project has been slow recently due to me buying one of those big 4 wheeled things with air-con for transporting the family, and me being me I had to get a car that needed a bit of attention.... this morning was spent scouring Bangkok's scrapyards.....

But also, I was fed up with having no decent place to work on the parts as I brought them up to the apartment.

So I have been busy over the last few days converting this:

to this:

Should help things along a bit!

[Overandout]

So, an update on this is long overdue.

Last time round I had the donor bike as a rolling chassis.

Next to be removed was the front end which left the bike looking a bit sorry for itself:

The wheel looks OK, as do the yokes and stem. The bottom yoke is not Honda so presumably came with the forks, as being USD forks the tube is much bigger that the standard tubes that the yoke grips.

The top yoke however is standard CBR150 becasue the USD forks have a reduced diameter extended cap which acts as an extension of the upper fork tube. Neat idea as it also allows the standard clip on bars to be retained.

The bad news came after cleaning up and inspecting the forks: the seals are blown on both, and the chrome is pitted on the stanchions. I have tried in vain to identify the manufacturer of the forks but there is no markings on them and no-one recognises them so finding seals would be difficult even if I could get the stanchions re-chromed.

Then I noticed that one of the forks is slightly bent, so I'm afraid that they are destined for the Klong...

Some time was then spent investigating alternatives. I wanted to keep the idea of USD forks in the project bike and the closest I can find are Zoomer X forks which at the moment looks like they will accept the reduced diameter fork tops from the donor bike's forks, meaning that I can still use the original top yoke and bars. An added bonus is that the Zoomer forks (with the extension added) will be closer to the lenghth of the original conventional forks that the USD ones that came on the donor which were actually about 5cms short. Also the Zoomer has the same stem length, diameter, top nut thread and fork spacing on the yokes as the CBR, so I can chose to use either the bottom yoke and stem that came with the donor bike or the Zoomer part.

[Overandout]

Next came the rear end.

That was an easy job to remove and after a short while here is the beautiful swing arm:

Alright, so it doesn't look very beautiful at the moment, in fact it looks like it was carved from stone, but it is awaiting a good clean as is the rest of the rear end.

I have stripped the hub and the (expensive looking) roller bearings are all in good condition. There's a bit of damage to the rotating eccentric adjuster used to adjust the chain tension where it looks as if someone has used a hammer and screwdriver to rotate this in the past, but I think that with a skilled bit of grinding it can be tidied up OK. I will also need a few new little bits like seals and circlips and cush rubbers, I hope these are still available from Honda!

While I was at it, I took everything else off the frame, Mainly just the loom and few other bits and bobs, so now, the donor "bike" is not really a bike anymore:

Anyone want a free CBR frame ?!!

So I am nearly at the stage of taking the running bike off the road to start to transplant parts! But first I have to go shopping...