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Posted
41 minutes ago, johng said:

Bahn Amphur beach Na-Jomtien

 

P_20170115_145649 (Large).jpg

 

P_20170115_145621 (Large).jpg

 

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Getting to be a popular bike. Most are 250s as they have the single exhaust. You can tell a 400 as they have dual exhausts.

  • Like 1
Posted
13 minutes ago, Rdrokit said:

Getting to be a popular bike. Most are 250s as they have the single exhaust. You can tell a 400 as they have dual exhausts.

Sorry to be pedantic but most of those bikes are Stallions 150s with a GPX Legend or two in the mix.

Posted
On 2/10/2017 at 5:04 PM, Stevemercer said:

Took my Stallion Centaur 400 in for its 1000 km service. The service cost 1,300 Baht, with the oil charged as 1,100 Baht. Might take my own oil in next time. They fitted the number plate and a holder for the registration sticker. However, on the ride home (40 km from Khon Kaen) the registration holder came off and got lost. Obviously no Loktite on the screws.

 

The bike is still good. I'm liking it more and more. It's a relaxing cruise at 100 km/hr and it gets 30 km per litre if kept under 5,000 RPM.

 

I had a look at the 400 cc Scrambler while at Vintage Motorcycles in Khon Kaen. It certainly is a tall bike and the jutting side panels must be annoying for any pillions. It's hard to see the average Thai fitting on the bike. By comparison, the 250 scrambler is smaller and (in my view) much better looking.

Welcome to the wonderful world of Thai mechanics.  Why are you assuming they used a screw to secure the holder?

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

This puts me in mind of the 60's when a lot of fun was had (by others, as I was car bound) on a budget, anyone can spend a shit load of money on the perfect (read boring) bike. The sports bikes I see around are all the bloody same same, these guys have bikes that are all different and they all sound so good, Some have done their bikes up to look 30 years old, perhaps I should do the reverse snobbery thing and pit some Stallion stickers on my 1983 Honda NV400.

 

A mate of mine plans on buy one at the end of this year, may join him on some runs.

Edited by AllanB
  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Hi,

 

Seeking some advice.

 

I bought a new Stallions CT400 in late November, so had it now for roughly 3 months with about 2100km on the odometer.

 

The first month was great, no issues at all. But at around the 1000km mark I noticed the electric start getting much slower (taking many seconds to start) so I took it to the shop that sold it to me (in Sathorn, Bangkok). They changed the battery and did the first service (oil change) as well.

 

After this, things slowly got worse. The new battery did not solve the slow start, it got worse and the bike started stalling on me. So I took it to the Stallions dealer in Ramkhamhaeng. They worked on it for an hour or so.

 

After this, it got even worse. Sometimes it wouldn't start at all and the RPM's got lower and lower (around 1000-1200 when cold), and it would stall in neutral if you gave it some gas, and also when I shift up while riding (at higher speeds and high gears).

 

So I took it back to Stallions again, they did some work on it again, but same issues remained, more or less. This became a real hazard, since the bike would stall while riding in Bangkok traffic, and it wouldn't start back up.

 

I've been to the shop again yesterday and had a thai friend translate the issues I'm experiencing and they worked on it for roughly 3 hours. I managed to ride it back home all the way (40 min drive) without it stalling or having any issues, but the RPM still jumps around when on neutral (between 1300-1500).

 

Has anyone had this type of experience with their Stallions bike, or any other bike for that matter? What are your RPM's when on neutral (just as a reference)?

 

It's gotten to the point where I don't trust the bike to run smoothly, every time I shift gear I'm afraid it will stall on me.

 

Thanks in advance for any comments.

 

/S

 

 

Posted

My first look would be for an intake leak. Sucking air between the carb and the cylinder. Leans the mixture out. The wandering idle is a symptom of this. Quick check - get the bike warmed up, let it idle, spray WD40 around the intake plumbing. If the idle speed increases, you have found your leak.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, canthai55 said:

My first look would be for an intake leak. Sucking air between the carb and the cylinder. Leans the mixture out. The wandering idle is a symptom of this. Quick check - get the bike warmed up, let it idle, spray WD40 around the intake plumbing. If the idle speed increases, you have found your leak.

Sounds good but it is a fuel injected engine. it could be the oxygen sensor.

 

The typical signs of a faulty oxygen sensor include increased exhaust emissions due to poor air fuel mixture, engine hesitations, engine misfires, stalling, rough idling and increased fuel consumption. The oxygen sensor is a crucial component of a vehicle's electronic fuel injection and emission system, and it relays information to an on-board engine management computer that regulates fuel delivery to the engine.

 

Sounds like your problems?

 

My Stallion Scrambler 400 idles at about 2000 when cold and 1600 when warmed up.

Edited by Rdrokit
  • Like 1
Posted

After living here in Thailand for half of my life and owned 5 different motorcycles I think I am in a position to comment.

 

When I buy a motorcycle, the day I buy it I put a high quality fuel filter on it!  Strangely, after that, fuel and carburetor/injector problems disappear!

 

One of my Thai motorcycle mechanic friends says he makes huge amounts of money because of bad fuel and that fact that he has to clean fuel systems so often.

 

Many Thai motorcycle mechanics say you shouldn't put a fuel filter on a motorcycle because it wasn't designed for it the design is faulty!

 

I think thats wrong!  I have had a Tiger for 10 years and it runs like a song!

Posted
26 minutes ago, Rdrokit said:

Sounds good but it is a fuel injected engine. it could be the oxygen sensor.

I stand corrected. In that case I agree - O2 sensor - or the wiring associated.

Posted
12 hours ago, Badbanker said:

After living here in Thailand for half of my life and owned 5 different motorcycles I think I am in a position to comment.

 

When I buy a motorcycle, the day I buy it I put a high quality fuel filter on it!  Strangely, after that, fuel and carburetor/injector problems disappear!

 

One of my Thai motorcycle mechanic friends says he makes huge amounts of money because of bad fuel and that fact that he has to clean fuel systems so often.

 

Many Thai motorcycle mechanics say you shouldn't put a fuel filter on a motorcycle because it wasn't designed for it the design is faulty!

 

I think thats wrong!  I have had a Tiger for 10 years and it runs like a song!

Thanks for the comment.

 

In this case they never charged me at Stallions in Ramkhamhaeng (went on the warranty), so there was no incentive to "keep me coming back". However, it could simply be the case of not knowing any better.

 

12 hours ago, Rdrokit said:

Sounds good but it is a fuel injected engine. it could be the oxygen sensor.

 

The typical signs of a faulty oxygen sensor include increased exhaust emissions due to poor air fuel mixture, engine hesitations, engine misfires, stalling, rough idling and increased fuel consumption. The oxygen sensor is a crucial component of a vehicle's electronic fuel injection and emission system, and it relays information to an on-board engine management computer that regulates fuel delivery to the engine.

 

Sounds like your problems?

 

My Stallion Scrambler 400 idles at about 2000 when cold and 1600 when warmed up.

That sounds like a BINGO. The bike no longer stalls randomly since my last visit to Ramkhamhaeng, very happy about that. However the RPM's are still low (and wandering) at 1300-1500 when idling (cold), need to fix that.

 

I'm not sure exactly what they did at the shop, there is quite a language barrier, but they removed and emptied the fuel tank and I assume they cleaned some filters along the way.

 

I didn't know that I should only be using 95 with this bike, I thought 91 was okay. Was this possibly the cause of all the problems? I had no idea it would make any difference, now I know better....

 

Will look into getting the oxygen sensor replaced.

Posted

Use 95. And check for that intake leak too - can happen with FI also. Easy first step is make sure all the clamps are tight. But not too tight - snug is OK

Posted
Just now, canthai55 said:

Use 95. And check for that intake leak too - can happen with FI also. Easy first step is make sure all the clamps are tight. But not too tight - snug is OK

This bike's also sold as the Mash 400 in France. 

 

I have a copy of the Owners' Manual (in French) they give with their bikes.

 

Regarding fuel, it says:-

 

Faire le plein de carburant
La capacité du réservoir à carburant est de 13L. Vous utiliserez de l’essence
sans plomb 95 ou 98 ......
Note : Ne pas utiliser de carburant E10

 

Basically -- "Use unleaded fuel 95 or 98 (RON?). Note: don't use E10".

 

I hope Stallions have made the necessary mods. to allow the use of E10!

Posted

I have the CT 400 and it idles in the range 1,500 (hot) to 2,000 (cold). I attach the page from the manual for the British variant. According to the manual, RON 95 should be used, but the odd tank of RON 91 will do no harm. 

 

Have you ever tried to kick start the thing successfully? The symptoms you describe is most likely a combination of the things mentioned by other posters. However, I would expect the bike shops to have looked at the obvious things like the air filter, spark plugs, air leaks, clogged injectors, bad fuel etc. A faulty oxygen sensor (or more likely the wiring) could be causing problems, but I'm not sure how you can check this at home.

Manual idle.jpg

Posted
1 hour ago, Stevemercer said:

I have the CT 400 and it idles in the range 1,500 (hot) to 2,000 (cold). I attach the page from the manual for the British variant. According to the manual, RON 95 should be used, but the odd tank of RON 91 will do no harm. 

 

Have you ever tried to kick start the thing successfully? The symptoms you describe is most likely a combination of the things mentioned by other posters. However, I would expect the bike shops to have looked at the obvious things like the air filter, spark plugs, air leaks, clogged injectors, bad fuel etc. A faulty oxygen sensor (or more likely the wiring) could be causing problems, but I'm not sure how you can check this at home.

Manual idle.jpg

Thanks for posting the image from the manual.

 

I've tried to kickstart it but I was not successfull after 10 attempts or so. However, from what I understood this is not an easy bike to kickstart even when working perfectly.

 

I agree that you would expect the official Stallions shop to have checked the obvious things, and tried to fix it immediately to get rid of me, since they weren't making any money on it. I've been there four times now in 2 months, yet, they still have not solved the problem with low RPM's while idling. I also remember it being higher before, around 2000 when cold. Now when I start it, it seems like it could die any second, give it some gas, it gets a bit better, but never above 1500, typically it will hover at 1400, then temporarily drop to 1200-1300 and bounce back up.

 

I'm not knowledgable in these things at all, so will have to take it to the shop and explain what I want them to do, and of course pay for it, to make sure they actually change the parts and do the job. You'd just think that they would have cracked this case by now, they are supposed to be the experts.

Posted

I don't think the mechanic at the shop where I brought my bike is very good. Hopefully I can find a decent mechanic somewhere if I start to have problems. You could try advancing the timing somewhat (higher revs), as per the above instruction, to see if it helps. But only try if it is still stalling. Otherwise leave well enough alone.

 

This morning my bike stalled once while still cold. It restarted easy enough and seemed fine when hot. However, it always takes 5 or 6 turns of the starter motor to fire up. Most bikes with fuel injection seem to start on the first turn so I'll have to see how mine goes over the first 12 months. The revs at idle on mine always seem to wander a bit, although they stay above 1500. 

 

I've got an early model CT and have heard rumors that the ECU mapping is not quite right (but has been fixed on the 2017 models). If the oxygen sensor goes, the engine management light should go on. If it is an intermittent wiring fault between the sensor and the ECU, or the ECU/ignition timing is a bit out, the light won't go on.

 

I'be tried kick starting a few times, but with no success. It would be nice to know if there is some technique to it, so as not to have to worry about getting stuck with flat battery. I can get to kick back a bit, but not to start so far.

Posted

When you start a FI bike, good habit to get into is turn key to on and wait for the fuel pump to cycle off. This makes sure that fuel pressure is up to spec and it should turn over once and start. If it needs 4 or 5 revolutions to get going, something is amiss.

Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Stevemercer said:

I don't think the mechanic at the shop where I brought my bike is very good. Hopefully I can find a decent mechanic somewhere if I start to have problems. You could try advancing the timing somewhat (higher revs), as per the above instruction, to see if it helps. But only try if it is still stalling. Otherwise leave well enough alone.

 

This morning my bike stalled once while still cold. It restarted easy enough and seemed fine when hot. However, it always takes 5 or 6 turns of the starter motor to fire up. Most bikes with fuel injection seem to start on the first turn so I'll have to see how mine goes over the first 12 months. The revs at idle on mine always seem to wander a bit, although they stay above 1500. 

 

I've got an early model CT and have heard rumors that the ECU mapping is not quite right (but has been fixed on the 2017 models). If the oxygen sensor goes, the engine management light should go on. If it is an intermittent wiring fault between the sensor and the ECU, or the ECU/ignition timing is a bit out, the light won't go on.

 

I'be tried kick starting a few times, but with no success. It would be nice to know if there is some technique to it, so as not to have to worry about getting stuck with flat battery. I can get to kick back a bit, but not to start so far.

It hasn't been stalling since my visit to Stallions on Tuesday, so I will leave it alone for now.

 

The engine management light has gone on on 2 or 3 occassions. I've simply stopped, turned off the engine, waited a minute, and then started the engine, and after this there's no more engine light. These kind of things make me worry a lot though. I'll go to the shop next week and specifically ask to check and replace the oxygen sensor, and see if that solves. Any idea what "oxygen sensor" is called in thai?

 

Not sure if you've already seen it, but here is a video of someone successfully kickstarting the thing:

 

Edited by bkksteve123
Posted

I assume the oxygen sensor is that plug screwed into the left down exhaust pipe.

 

I might try kick starting again when the engine is warmed up. I know you have to turn the engine until the piston is top dead centre or at the hardest compression. Then you let the kick start go all the way to the top and put all your weight into the kick. Then try again and again. After half a dozen attempts you are buggered. 

  • Like 1
Posted
3 hours ago, Stevemercer said:

I don't think the mechanic at the shop where I brought my bike is very good. Hopefully I can find a decent mechanic somewhere if I start to have problems.

 

Google "Jo Modify Khon Kaen". That'll send you to a Facebook page and has a map good enough to locate them.

 

They're in the maze of roads just south of Bung Kaen Nakorn and the pagoda temple in KK, accessible from the road that eventually runs past Fairy Plaza and also from the anticlockwise lane of the southern ring road. Address; 444/99 Sri That Rd.

 

I've never needed to use them myself but I've had some positive recommendations from others who have. 

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
Posted

I've got about 3,500 km on my CT 400 and so far so good. The engine has loosened up a bit and seems to spin up the revs better. It also seems better at low revs (below 3,500 rpm). It is also starting a bit easier. It will sometimes stall from a cold start, but is fine when warmed up. I still haven't managed to kick start it into life.

 

There is a fair jump from first to second gear which can be a nuisance when travelling slow.

 

  • Like 2
Posted
55 minutes ago, Kiran said:

Namaste from Nepal.

 

I recently bought this machine after reading good reviews on this forum and other online reviews. It's branded as Ace British here and costs Rs. 610000 = 205088 Baht! Quite more expensive compared to Thai Price due to Crazy Tax Rates for Automobiles.

 

I love the look and feel of the Bike so far. The clutch is quite stiff and the front brakes could have been better. After Market mudguard is essential for Wet Weather Commuting. 

 

I have managed to Kick Start few times, I will post a video once I master it. :) 

 

Love to see some photos of your bike. Nepal must be a beautiful place to ride. Do you live in Kathmandu?

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