Anythingleft? Posted October 9, 2016 Share Posted October 9, 2016 14 minutes ago, Strange said: I see nothing in there saying there is an API standard for strictly E85, DuelFuel, and Gasoline. Can you cite the standard for me? It's all here you just have to read it http://www.api.org/products-and-services/engine-oil/eolcs-categories-and-documents/oil-categories#tab_diesel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strange Posted October 9, 2016 Share Posted October 9, 2016 19 minutes ago, Anythingleft? said: It's all here you just have to read it http://www.api.org/products-and-services/engine-oil/eolcs-categories-and-documents/oil-categories#tab_diesel My point is that API "SN" and ILSAC "GF-5" are good for all ethanol containing fuels up to E85. 10%, 20% 85% no problem. Don't have to change oils man. Its in your link. I been knowing about this I just wanted you to get there. Quote SN Introduced in October 2010, designed to provide improved high temperature deposit protection for pistons, more stringent sludge control, and seal compatibility. API SN with Resource Conserving matches ILSAC GF-5 by combining API SN performance with improved fuel economy, turbocharger protection, emission control system compatibility, and protection of engines operating on ethanol-containing fuels up to E85. Quote GF-5 Introduced in October 2010, designed to provide improved high temperature deposit protection for pistons and turbochargers, more stringent sludge control, improved fuel economy, enhanced emission control system compatibility, seal compatibility, and protection of engines operating on ethanol-containing fuels up to E85. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
transam Posted October 9, 2016 Share Posted October 9, 2016 52 minutes ago, Sooo Upto Me said: 40 minutes ago, transam said: Glad we have you aboard with your magazine info...Dee ma.... So as it seems you are the guru here pray tell us how the OP stops burning 0-20 oil in his high mileage ride...? Please don't come back with.."you need an engine rebuild".........before he tries the oil weight theory as you will look rather daft....Go for it....BUT, before you go for it, do a Net search first eh....Cos I have... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strange Posted October 9, 2016 Share Posted October 9, 2016 1 minute ago, transam said: So as it seems you are the guru here pray tell us how the OP stops burning 0-20 oil in his high mileage ride...? Please don't come back with.."you need an engine rebuild".........before he tries the oil weight theory as you will look rather daft....Go for it....BUT, before you go for it, do a Net search first eh....Cos I have... lol Burning oil? MUST BE PISTON RINGS NEED NEW ENGINE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strange Posted October 9, 2016 Share Posted October 9, 2016 31 minutes ago, Ace of Pop said: Steady on Chaps .If you have run E85 like I have for 4yars the first thing you notice is it ain't Petrol it's the Mrs Nail Varnish Remover..E20 is milder pong but still nothing like Real stuff.So back off Honda and things we ain't sure about.Bathurst V8s are All on 85 n pissy oil ,so enjoy you don't have old Cityand embrace today's oil You've been running E85 for 4 years? What oil are you running? Do you know the API Service Category? Seriously just curious. Its on the bottle if you have it lying around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace of Pop Posted October 9, 2016 Share Posted October 9, 2016 The Funs Gone its a Civic 1.8. top auto ting, 3.4 years old 77 K Clics on E85 , serviced by Honda Krabi and perfect with their their pee pee Oil.Im Gone too,!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anythingleft? Posted October 9, 2016 Share Posted October 9, 2016 1 hour ago, Strange said: My point is that API "SN" and ILSAC "GF-5" are good for all ethanol containing fuels up to E85. 10%, 20% 85% no problem. Don't have to change oils man. Its in your link. I been knowing about this I just wanted you to get there Yes they are but oils previous to that were not and are still readily available in all the different grades, whats your point 1 hour ago, Strange said: When it says to change the oil weight/grade, you are not changing additives, just the viscosity grade Incorrect as stated above if the API does not match, not all brands have the same specs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strange Posted October 9, 2016 Share Posted October 9, 2016 27 minutes ago, Anythingleft? said: Yes they are but oils previous to that were not and are still readily available in all the different grades, whats your point The point is, its up to the owner of the car to know what grade AND API Service Category. Two VERY different things. 10w40 API "SM" is not the same as 10w40 API "SJ" Prior to 2010 you STILL did not change the oil from your theorized regular gasoline oil to E85 oil, you would use API "SM" in BOTH gasoline and E85. Same as after 2010 and the API "SN" and since most gasoline today has up to 10% E in it, Manufacturers require API "SM" and thats good all the way up to E85 - No Change - Before that - No Change Shop manuals (Dealership tech) and owners manuals usually said to (prior to 2010) change the oil more often if running E85 but no change in the Required Oil Grade or API. Why? Because there was and still is no alternative. They are readily available in all grades, because there are older cars & trucks on the road and the manufacturer wants you to use a different API Category during that year. The only difference to note is if you buy a PTT "Brand" 10w30 API "SN" and they "Claim" better additives for whatever. Longer life, high mileage, etc. They, and others, have to do this to get you to buy their product. Same as the fuel you buy. 47 minutes ago, Anythingleft? said: Incorrect as stated above if the API does not match, not all brands have the same specs This was me knowingly trying to get you this far man. You been battling with me, so I figured it was better to draw it from you rather than TELL you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strange Posted October 9, 2016 Share Posted October 9, 2016 See the API Grade? This can be used in E10 (gasohol) through E85 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whaleboneman Posted October 9, 2016 Share Posted October 9, 2016 12 hours ago, Don Mega said: rope works well, if you get enough in there but if you dont good luck compressing the spring to put the collets back in. Me, I'll stick to compressed air 100% works 100% every time. When you compress the spring, the load is on the cylinder head. The rope merely stops valves from contacting piston when you remove collets. I understand that everyone has preferences for doing repairs and I agree you should stick to what works for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Mega Posted October 9, 2016 Share Posted October 9, 2016 13 hours ago, Ace of Pop said: I would never argue with a Gentleman Sotsira, can only say they never used that in our Reps ( superb) Citys with twin spark injection engines, i only saw thin oil used when E85 Engines compatable came out here, and caused a load of know it alls here to say it was no good... Strange cause most of em drove a Clonker that were experts on Honda Oil. So No Change really. I could be wrong though. Thin oil is used for for fuel efficiency, not E85. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Mega Posted October 9, 2016 Share Posted October 9, 2016 12 hours ago, Strange said: So you are saying that duel fuel and flex fuel require a certain oil, E85 requires a certain oil, and gasoline require a certain oil, outside of the viscosity grade? Can you refer me to the API standard dictating the differences in these oils? E85 requires oil with anti corrosion properties. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
transam Posted October 10, 2016 Share Posted October 10, 2016 http://asia.vtec.net/topics/oil1.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sotsira Posted October 10, 2016 Share Posted October 10, 2016 18 minutes ago, transam said: http://asia.vtec.net/topics/oil1.html More misinformation T/A. That article is written in 2001 for the third generation Honda City 1996-2002 with a totally different engine (D15B) The OP has the 2009 to 2013 5th generation Honda City with the L15A7 engines. Read my post 93. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
transam Posted October 10, 2016 Share Posted October 10, 2016 30 minutes ago, sotsira said: More misinformation T/A. That article is written in 2001 for the third generation Honda City 1996-2002 with a totally different engine (D15B) The OP has the 2009 to 2013 5th generation Honda City with the L15A7 engines. Read my post 93. My apologies, wrong engine year, but I will stick to my thoughts on solving his problem if wear is the fault. Use a heavier weight oil... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JAS21 Posted October 10, 2016 Share Posted October 10, 2016 OP … 150,000miles is not a lot for a modern engine. If it accelerates well, you can cruise at 140kph and fuel consumption is about the same, it can’t be that bad. As you say ‘is using lots of motor oil lately’ so did it just start after say the last service? The modern cars that I have experienced don’t seem to burn a lot of oil. Yours seems a little excessive but if you let the level drop and drive fast then you may use more oil. As Trans has suggested try the Shell High Milage Oil or as most suggest one grade thicker. I cannot believe six pages on this ……………. and all saying almost the same … including me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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