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Why does my Honda City use so much oil?


maphraw

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4 minutes ago, Sooo Upto Me said:

 

Maybe but 10w40 will be a better all round oil on a high mileage engine.

wont be any different to 5w40.

 

 W = winter and the number before it is the viscosity of the oil at cold start up.

 

The number after the W is the viscosity of the oil when hot ( 100 °C ).

 

If you want a thicker oil you need one with a higher number after the W.

 

 

or if you are in a hot climate forgo multi-grade oil all together and use a single grade instead.

 

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Some cars have an oil cooler integrated with the radiator, a leak between the oil side and water side would show up as oil film in the cooling water. Check the water for oil which normally show up as foam on top.

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16 minutes ago, Don Mega said:

wont be any different to 5w40.

 

 W = winter and the number before it is the viscosity of the oil at cold start up.

 

The number after the W is the viscosity of the oil when hot ( 100 °C ).

 

If you want a thicker oil you need one with a higher number after the W.

 

 

or if you are in a hot climate forgo multi-grade oil all together and use a single grade instead.

 

 

Incorrect. 5w40 is a thinner oil an will flow better on a cold start than a 10w40 oil.

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.

1 minute ago, Sooo Upto Me said:

 

Incorrect. 5w40 is a thinner oil an will flow better on a cold start than a 10w40 oil.

 

Yeah cause cold starts in Thailand is a real issue , as I said if you want a thicker oil go with a bigger number after the W.

 

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17 minutes ago, Anythingleft? said:

Not sure I understand that logic, the grade of oil being used now should be the first question and we still don't know what that is....

 

We are talking about a car that is burning oil. Switching from a synthetic or semi-synthetic to a conventional can, and does, assist is holding up leaks caused by clearances in the valve train opening up. The viscosity (hot or cold) remains the same in all the oils, but you can take a full synthetic 10w-30 and a conventional 10w-30 and feel the oil with your fingers. The full synthetic feels "Thinner" at the same temp ambient temp. Has the same viscosity, same lubrication properties. This is an "off label" use. Its cheaper than synthetic, and thats good since OP is going through so much of it. Just need earlier oil changes with conventional. 

 

If the OP is using a light weight full synthetic in a high kilometer car, this can cause consumption and without knowing more, its an easy, cheaper, patch. 

 

11 minutes ago, Sooo Upto Me said:

It is if u live up north from Dec to Feb.

 

8 minutes ago, Sooo Upto Me said:

Maybe but 10w40 will be a better all round oil on a high mileage engine.

 

How cold does it get "Up North" and how exactly is that oil weight better for a high mileage engine? So much misinformation. 

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4 minutes ago, Sooo Upto Me said:

Incorrect. 5w40 is a thinner oil an will flow better on a cold start than a 10w40 oil.

 

Thinner when cold. Its not cold. We are talking about freezing point here 

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20 minutes ago, Svante said:

Some cars have an oil cooler integrated with the radiator, a leak between the oil side and water side would show up as oil film in the cooling water. Check the water for oil which normally show up as foam on top.

 

Oil cooler in the radiator is typically for the automatic transmission 

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5 minutes ago, Strange said:

 

We are talking about a car that is burning oil. Switching from a synthetic or semi-synthetic to a conventional can, and does, assist is holding up leaks caused by clearances in the valve train opening up. The viscosity (hot or cold) remains the same in all the oils, but you can take a full synthetic 10w-30 and a conventional 10w-30 and feel the oil with your fingers. The full synthetic feels "Thinner" at the same temp ambient temp. Has the same viscosity, same lubrication properties. This is an "off label" use. Its cheaper than synthetic, and thats good since OP is going through so much of it. Just need earlier oil changes with conventional. 

 

If the OP is using a light weight full synthetic in a high kilometer car, this can cause consumption and without knowing more, its an easy, cheaper, patch. 

 

 

 

How cold does it get "Up North" and how exactly is that oil weight better for a high mileage engine? So much misinformation. 

 

Stop posting misinformation then.

I have lived up north near the Burmese border an we hav had frosts up here on a regular basis. So it would make a difference.

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Just now, Sooo Upto Me said:

 

Stop posting misinformation then.

I have lived up north near the Burmese border an we hav had frosts up here on a regular basis. So it would make a difference.

 

Does it drop to zero degree's or below, if not then you don't need to worry about the number before the W.

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I use 0w 20 Honda Oil as per Book . Not to be used in old engines though. So now do all Honda Cars with E85 Benzine Engines The City the OP has needed 5. 40. when new. Thats if Honda is allowed an opinion, and printed the book right as Just Me earlier posted correctly

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1 minute ago, Sooo Upto Me said:

 

Stop posting misinformation then.

I have lived up north near the Burmese border an we hav had frosts up here on a regular basis. So it would make a difference.

 

lmao what is the misinformation? 

 

We are talking about freezing point here not just a couple frosts. 5 WINTER and 10 WINTER with the same warm 40 grade 

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2 minutes ago, Sooo Upto Me said:

 

Yes it has dropped to zero degrees up in border mountains here.

Welll then great, a low viscosity Winter grade is best to use but in the case of the OP (and for 99% of us that live in Thailand) that number before the W is meaningless.

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3 minutes ago, Sooo Upto Me said:

 

Yes it has dropped to zero degrees up in border mountains here.

 

Well then run it, but what does that have to do with a "Higher Mileage" engine or the OP's case? Let alone whats going on with oil consumption at operating temp.

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2 hours ago, Strange said:

"Leakdown Test"

Erm, once you did the visual then the leakdown test it does not narrow it down any does it? you would still have to strip the engine to see which parts are at fault  :sad: or do you have magic eyes as well as magic fingers

 

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4 minutes ago, Anythingleft? said:

Erm, once you did the visual then the leakdown test it does not narrow it down any does it? you would still have to strip the engine to see which parts are at fault  :sad: or do you have magic eyes as well as magic fingers

 

 

A leakdown test will pinpoint the issue. no point in pulling the pistons out if the issue is the valve stem seals.

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OP, it's normal that an engine with such a millage needs oil. 

 

       1. Use thicker oil, no matter what brand, there's not so much difference in oil as one might think. It's a good business.

 

       2. Stop hitting the throttle to 140 km /h and you'll see that you might only need 0.5 liter in 4,000 km.

 

            BTW, you shouldn't wait 4,000 km just to find out that a couple of liters are missing. That's damaging your engine even more and once the oil film is gone, your engine comes with it.

 

        Check every week and if something is missing, just fill it up. Kau Tchai Mai, khrap?

 

             

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Funny, I have a bush hack which is a 1997 Kia Sportage with 240,000k on the clock and it doesn't use any oil, havnt put any in for 12 months since last change. 

I would suggest running the car for a half hour then checking under it, it's either leaking it or burning it.

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555 pages and pages of replies - and no one caught on to the most obvious  ...

 

OP - first thing, check the PCV valve. It is usually located in a rubber grommet in the valve cover. Remove this - simply pull it out, and give it a shake. You should hear a rattle like a marble in a can of spray paint. If it makes no sound - replace it. It is not letting the vapours out of the crankcase and causing a buildup of pressure which will pull oil past the piston rings on the intake stroke. If it rattles OK, check the hoses it connects to to ensure that they are in good shape.

If PCV system checks out, it must be piston rings or valve seals. A leakdown test will tell for sure where it is. The advice given above re: running a heavier weight of oil can help, but is a bandaid solution and your engine will need work. If oil seals,  they can be replaced with the head left on the engine if you know how. Does anyone is LOS know the trick ?  Doubtful.

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On 10/8/2016 at 2:11 PM, maphraw said:

Kartman, where can you get Vavoline motor oil in Thailand? Is it readily available. I googled 'Vavoline availability in Thailand' and nothing came up. It got a good write up and was recommened for the kind of problem I have been having. Thanks.

I just get it from a motor factor google valvoline thailand to see their web site and contact details

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