how to connect 4" pvc pipe

[canopy]

Unlike smaller sizes, I have found the amount of force needed to fully insert 4" pvc pipe to be tremendous beyond belief. Anyone found a good way to get this size together, especially in cases where little leverage is available?

 

[grollies]

Piece of wood across the pipe end and a lump hammer.

[Damrongsak]

"Lump hammer"...  a fellow on a machining forum has a lump hammer he named "Mr. Slammy".  He would launch it across the shop in the direction of apprentices who screwed up.

[simoh1490]

Cheaper grades of blue are easier because the plastic is thinner, top grades can be a nightmare - we've got metres of the stuff forming a drainage area that runs under our house, connected to the rainwater gutters. I used WD4 to help make a pressure fit easier but I didn't use any contact cement - you can get away with not using contact cement for something like rainwater gutter channels but if it's something that's going to be under pressure, it may be a problem. As said earlier, a piece of wood and a large hammer are needed - axle grease also helps make the joint slide in easier..

[sirineou]

I always sand that area with an 80 grit sandpaper to clean burrs and dirt, then a litle primer (not always necessary but helps) with a pencil i mark a couple of inches back to make sure I inserted the pipe enough in the fitting. then I coat both the pipe end and the inside of the fitting with PVC glue, I find the glue on both parts to act as a lubricant making it easier to insert the pipe into the fitting but make sure you are ready for the operation because the glue sets fast. 

[simoh1490]

Yes, that works but as you say, you've got to be quick and with 4 inch it's tough to do. A note on contact cement: contact cement only really works if both surfaces are coated with the stuff, it's a misnomer that only one side needs coating, why else do you think it's called contact cement.

[watcharacters]

2 minutes ago, simoh1490 said:

Yes, that works but as you say, you've got to be quick and with 4 inch it's tough to do. A note on contact cement: contact cement only really works if both surfaces are coated with the stuff, it's a misnomer that only one side needs coating, why else do you think it's called contact cement.

 

 

 

I've always known it as "purple Primer"

 

 

 

 

 

[sirineou]

7 minutes ago, simoh1490 said:

Yes, that works but as you say, you've got to be quick and with 4 inch it's tough to do. A note on contact cement: contact cement only really works if both surfaces are coated with the stuff, it's a misnomer that only one side needs coating, why else do you think it's called contact cement.

and as you said a Lump hummer is always a good idea to have.

I can fix anything with a Lump hammer, a vise grip plier,  and a roll of duct tape LOL

[canopy]

14 hours ago, simoh1490 said:

top grades can be a nightmare

 

Aha! I used the real thick type of pvc and have the same sentiment. For the lump hammer idea, I am worried the glue will freeze well before it goes in all the way. You know how pvc cement is, once you stop even for a second it's over. So I worry one hit it starts in well enough, second hit it doesn't move anymore. Plus clearance for a hammer can be limiting in some cases. I plan to develop a pry bar system to pull them together with a lever. And since it takes forever to apply cement to this size I will also try small paint rollers.

 

[Mooner]

If you have a angle grinder turn it 45 degress to the pipe to chamfer the edge.

Im guessing that it wont be water pressured as you dont need 4 inch for that. 2inch max is plenty.

So you can use a lubricant to help easing it in and the forementioned wood and hammer method.

[cliveshep]

For future reference, in the UK we use UPVC pipes underground and they are the same thickness as the thin blue pipes here. The Thai pipe system is a bit confusing because both high pressure and drainage pipes are the same blue plastic, only the thicknesses are different. For drains and branch waste pipes the thin pipes are more than adequate.

 

Being a tight wad I don't buy couplers, just heat the end of the pipe until soft and ram a scrap piece into the end about 3 inches. That expands the end and once cooled the scrap piece can be removed. The fit on the coupler is pretty tight and for drainage in practice as you aren't subject to UK Building Control Officer scrutiny a pragmatic approach where pipes are buried is to not bother to joint cement them at all as they won't leak and cannot move. Just try to bed on a friable material like a bed of small stones or sand to evenly support pipes so they don't sag out of line and add a complete surround of small stone or sand if you are backfilling with rocks or bricks in the mixture so they cannot damage the pipe.

[eyecatcher]

I would nt seal an external waste pipe; i am assuming its only waste.

They way i put them together is to lubricate both ends with washing up liquid.

You have more time than cementing them which is a bit of a stress for me if its not in properly.

If you find a leak afterwards you can start again or just silicone bead the edges.