How-To Paint/Coat Unfinished-Rubberwood Door: Protect From Oils, Standing-Water

[GammaGlobulin]

Hi Guys,

 

In case you might not know, most plywood wholesalers sell these unfinished-wood doors. They are excellent for making large desk spaces and table surfaces for desktop-PCs, scanners, multiple computer displays; and maybe even as kitchen surfaces for ovens, bread machines, slow cookers, etc.

 

The sizes of these unfinished doors seem to range from 70x80 up to 100x200 cm.

 

My question is:  

 

What might be the recommended way to treat the wood door surface using some sort of easy-to-paint-on material that could protect the wood from becoming stained and discolored due to contact with cooking oils, water (hot/cold), or anything else that one might normally find in a kitchen.

 

The material needs to be:

 

Easy to paint onto the wood surface, and to air dry within a reasonable amount of time.

Two coats of material is acceptable.  But three would be too time consuming.

Must be fairly clear so that the wood is somewhat darker but..the woodgrain of the plywood is still easily visible and even enhanced by the surface treatment.

 

The material needs to be purchased in CM, preferably near or at the wholesaler that sells the wood doors.

 

Note: These doors are quite heavy. Whether they are rubberwood and not actually partially luan wood structure, I am not sure. (But these doors are definitely NOT hollow, and they weigh a ton!)

 

The doors, in my view, are very low cost for what you get.

 

Does anyone have good experience with a paint-on material that might work on these doors (several of them)?

 

Thanks much!!!

Best regards…

 

Note: I really have no experience using whatever might be available in CM…

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Ralf001]

Painting or coating an unfinished rubberwood door to protect it from oils and standing water involves several steps to ensure a durable and long-lasting finish. Here's a guide to help you achieve the best results:

 

Materials You'll Need:

 

Unfinished rubberwood door

Sandpaper (120-grit and 220-grit)

Tack cloth or microfiber cloth

Primer suitable for wood

Paint or finish suitable for wood (such as polyurethane or varnish)

Paintbrushes or paint sprayer

Painter's tape

Drop cloths or newspapers

Protective gloves and safety goggles

Step-by-Step Guide:

 

1. Prepare Your Workspace:

Choose a well-ventilated area with good lighting for your painting project.

Lay down drop cloths or newspapers to protect the surrounding area from paint splatters.

 

2. Clean the Door:

Use a damp cloth to clean the surface of the rubberwood door and remove any dust or debris.

Allow the door to dry completely before proceeding.

 

3. Sanding:

Start with 120-grit sandpaper to lightly sand the entire surface of the door.

Sanding helps to smooth out any imperfections, open the wood's pores, and provide a better surface for the primer to adhere to.

After sanding, wipe the door with a tack cloth or microfiber cloth to remove the sanding dust.

 

4. Apply Primer:

Apply a suitable wood primer using a brush or roller. Make sure to cover the entire surface evenly.

Follow the manufacturer's instructions for drying time between coats if multiple coats of primer are required.

Sand the primed surface lightly with 220-grit sandpaper after it's completely dry to achieve a smoother finish.

 

5. Apply Base Coats:

If you want to paint the door a specific color, apply your chosen paint after the primer has dried and been sanded.

Apply thin, even coats of paint, allowing each coat to dry completely before applying the next. Multiple thin coats are better than one thick coat.

Sand lightly between coats for a smoother finish.

 

6. Apply Protective Finish:

If you prefer a clear finish, choose a polyurethane or varnish suitable for wood.

Apply thin coats of the protective finish using a clean brush, roller, or sprayer. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for drying time and sanding between coats if necessary.

 

7. Handle Oils and Water Protection:

To protect the door from oils and water, ensure that the chosen protective finish is water-resistant and offers adequate sealing properties.

Avoid using harsh chemicals or abrasive cleaners that could damage the finish.

 

8. Allow Ample Drying Time:

Proper drying time is crucial to achieving a durable finish. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations for drying times between coats and before using the door.

 

9. Reattach Hardware:

Once the finish is fully cured and dry, reattach any hardware such as doorknobs, hinges, and locks.

 

Remember that each product you use, including the primer, paint, and protective finish, might have specific application instructions and drying times.

Always follow the manufacturer's guidelines for the best results.

Additionally, taking your time and applying each coat carefully will help ensure a professional-looking finish that effectively protects your rubberwood door from oils and standing water.

 

 

Edited August 30, 2023 by Ralf001

[GammaGlobulin]

7 minutes ago, Ralf001 said:

Painting or coating an unfinished rubberwood door to protect it from oils and standing water involves several steps to ensure a durable and long-lasting finish. Here's a guide to help you achieve the best results:

 

Materials You'll Need:

 

Unfinished rubberwood door

Sandpaper (120-grit and 220-grit)

Tack cloth or microfiber cloth

Primer suitable for wood

Paint or finish suitable for wood (such as polyurethane or varnish)

Paintbrushes or paint sprayer

Painter's tape

Drop cloths or newspapers

Protective gloves and safety goggles

Step-by-Step Guide:

 

1. Prepare Your Workspace:

Choose a well-ventilated area with good lighting for your painting project.

Lay down drop cloths or newspapers to protect the surrounding area from paint splatters.

 

2. Clean the Door:

Use a damp cloth to clean the surface of the rubberwood door and remove any dust or debris.

Allow the door to dry completely before proceeding.

 

3. Sanding:

Start with 120-grit sandpaper to lightly sand the entire surface of the door.

Sanding helps to smooth out any imperfections, open the wood's pores, and provide a better surface for the primer to adhere to.

After sanding, wipe the door with a tack cloth or microfiber cloth to remove the sanding dust.

 

4. Apply Primer:

Apply a suitable wood primer using a brush or roller. Make sure to cover the entire surface evenly.

Follow the manufacturer's instructions for drying time between coats if multiple coats of primer are required.

Sand the primed surface lightly with 220-grit sandpaper after it's completely dry to achieve a smoother finish.

 

5. Apply Base Coats:

If you want to paint the door a specific color, apply your chosen paint after the primer has dried and been sanded.

Apply thin, even coats of paint, allowing each coat to dry completely before applying the next. Multiple thin coats are better than one thick coat.

Sand lightly between coats for a smoother finish.

 

6. Apply Protective Finish:

If you prefer a clear finish, choose a polyurethane or varnish suitable for wood.

Apply thin coats of the protective finish using a clean brush, roller, or sprayer. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for drying time and sanding between coats if necessary.

 

7. Handle Oils and Water Protection:

To protect the door from oils and water, ensure that the chosen protective finish is water-resistant and offers adequate sealing properties.

Avoid using harsh chemicals or abrasive cleaners that could damage the finish.

 

8. Allow Ample Drying Time:

Proper drying time is crucial to achieving a durable finish. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations for drying times between coats and before using the door.

 

9. Reattach Hardware:

Once the finish is fully cured and dry, reattach any hardware such as doorknobs, hinges, and locks.

 

Remember that each product you use, including the primer, paint, and protective finish, might have specific application instructions and drying times.

Always follow the manufacturer's guidelines for the best results.

Additionally, taking your time and applying each coat carefully will help ensure a professional-looking finish that effectively protects your rubberwood door from oils and standing water.

 

 

Would it be too much trouble to ask you to cite your reference?

 

Thank you.

 

 

[Ralf001]

1 minute ago, GammaGlobulin said:

Would it be too much trouble to ask you to cite your reference?

 

Thank you.

 

 

Google.

 

[GammaGlobulin]

8 minutes ago, Ralf001 said:

Google.

 

OK.

That's fine.

However, I would like to point out that these doors need no sanding or prepping before application of whatever material is chosen.

 

And, just out of curiosity, did anyone ever teach you how to do a proper citation of work that you wish to reference?

 

At the very least, do you happen to have a link/url?

 

 

Edited August 30, 2023 by GammaGlobulin

[impulse]

I'd point out that if you perform steps 4 and/or 5, you can't do step 6.

[GammaGlobulin]

12 minutes ago, impulse said:

I'd point out that if you perform steps 4 and/or 5, you can't do step 6.

Thank you.

However, to clarify, I am trying to just make this as simple and quick as possible.

 

The doors themselves are fairly well prepared for application of some material, as is, or as they are sold.

 

Also, these are not to be used as fine furniture, but only as desk spaces where keyboards, PCs, printers, speakers, etc. will be placed and moved around.

 

The only crucial aspect is that the wood needs to be protected from both oil, such as food oil, and from hot water, as from dripping hot water from tea kettles, and from standing water, as in from condensation of iced tea glasses which might sit on the surfaces for 24 hours, maybe.

 

No high-gloss finish is required.

Protection of the wood surface is enough.

However, what kind of "stuff" should be used.

What is best/available in CM?

Obviously it will be a synthetic coating painted on.

What "stuff" would be most resilient to oil/water/perhaps soap, and dishwashing detergent, but no harsh cleansers.

 

No primer is to be used.

Just one kind of "stuff", painted on with enough applications to do what is called for.

 

Thank you.

 

Note:  I was at the same supplier a couple of years ago. That supplier has MANY different kinds of clear coatings, or other stuff, to choose from, and the guys at the store just said that ALL are possible. All are OK...

 

Maybe so, but which might be best...in case anyone else has already done the same work many times in the past...

 

 

Edited August 30, 2023 by GammaGlobulin

[MrJ2U]

2 hours ago, GammaGlobulin said:

Hi Guys,

 

In case you might not know, most plywood wholesalers sell these unfinished-wood doors. They are excellent for making large desk spaces and table surfaces for desktop-PCs, scanners, multiple computer displays; and maybe even as kitchen surfaces for ovens, bread machines, slow cookers, etc.

 

The sizes of these unfinished doors seem to range from 70x80 up to 100x200 cm.

 

My question is:  

 

What might be the recommended way to treat the wood door surface using some sort of easy-to-paint-on material that could protect the wood from becoming stained and discolored due to contact with cooking oils, water (hot/cold), or anything else that one might normally find in a kitchen.

 

The material needs to be:

 

Easy to paint onto the wood surface, and to air dry within a reasonable amount of time.

Two coats of material is acceptable.  But three would be too time consuming.

Must be fairly clear so that the wood is somewhat darker but..the woodgrain of the plywood is still easily visible and even enhanced by the surface treatment.

 

The material needs to be purchased in CM, preferably near or at the wholesaler that sells the wood doors.

 

Note: These doors are quite heavy. Whether they are rubberwood and not actually partially luan wood structure, I am not sure. (But these doors are definitely NOT hollow, and they weigh a ton!)

 

The doors, in my view, are very low cost for what you get.

 

Does anyone have good experience with a paint-on material that might work on these doors (several of them)?

 

Thanks much!!!

Best regards…

 

Note: I really have no experience using whatever might be available in CM…

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

You're better off buying a fiberglass door in the high humidity of Thailand.  Perfect fit with frame. 

 

Easy to clean and they won't warp or shrink.

 

I wish I had done that, all our wood doors have visible gaps now.  

[impulse]

10 minutes ago, GammaGlobulin said:

Note:  I was at the same supplier a couple of years ago. That supplier has MANY different kinds of clear coatings, or other stuff, to choose from, and the guys at the store just said that ALL are possible. All are OK...

If you were in the USA, I'd suggest a polyurethane varnish or a marine spar varnish.  But I just don't know with rubberwood.  We don't get much of that...  I'm afraid the natural sap of rubberwood may react badly with varnishes that work great on oak or maple.  Hopefully, an old Thai hand will chime in soon.

 

BTW, for polyurethane or spar varnish, I'd start out thinning the first coat with about 10-15% mineral spirits to make it thinner, so it gets absorbed deeper.  Then a second coat with full strength varnish.  Doesn't sound like you need more than 2 coats.

[Pogust]

Any polyurethan will be fine. Use well diluted for primer. then sand off the fibers that raise up before next layer. It can be brushed on thicker than most other varnishes when it is two part. But consider putting a third layer on,  it will look so much better and create a better seal of the wood.

 

[GammaGlobulin]

12 minutes ago, MrJ2U said:

You're better off buying a fiberglass door in the high humidity of Thailand.  Perfect fit with frame. 

 

Easy to clean and they won't warp or shrink.

 

I wish I had done that, all our wood doors have visible gaps now.  

That's an interesting suggestion, for sure.

 

If this were a high-cost project, then I would do it.

 

Please keep in mind that these doors are to be used as table surfaces, and not used as the typical door.

 

Also, these rubberwood doors, the way they are fabricated, they are extremely strong, and extremely heavy.

The weight of these doors is an advantage because the weight minimizes vibration, something to be avoided in a computer table with several computers on top.

 

(Speaking of humidity and warped doors, you are correct, and during the raining season that is a problem here, as well.)

 

 

 

 

[GammaGlobulin]

11 minutes ago, impulse said:

If you were in the USA, I'd suggest a polyurethane varnish or a marine spar varnish.  But I just don't know with rubberwood.  We don't get much of that...  I'm afraid the natural sap of rubberwood may react badly with varnishes that work great on oak or maple.  Hopefully, an old Thai hand will chime in soon.

 

BTW, for polyurethane or spar varnish, I'd start out thinning the first coat with about 10-15% mineral spirits to make it thinner, so it gets absorbed deeper.  Then a second coat with full strength varnish.  Doesn't sound like you need more than 2 coats.

Thanks for advice about the thinning of the first coat.

Two coats to start with.

Then, later, maybe add a third when needed...in the future.

 

[GammaGlobulin]

7 minutes ago, Pogust said:

Any polyurethan will be fine. Use well diluted for primer. then sand off the fibers that raise up before next layer. It can be brushed on thicker than most other varnishes when it is two part. But consider putting a third layer on,  it will look so much better and create a better seal of the wood.

 

Third layer?

Well, OK, then.

I might even hire one of the workers to do it.

I just needed to know what to use.

 

[MrJ2U]

9 minutes ago, GammaGlobulin said:

That's an interesting suggestion, for sure.

 

If this were a high-cost project, then I would do it.

 

Please keep in mind that these doors are to be used as table surfaces, and not used as the typical door.

 

Also, these rubberwood doors, the way they are fabricated, they are extremely strong, and extremely heavy.

The weight of these doors is an advantage because the weight minimizes vibration, something to be avoided in a computer table with several computers on top.

 

(Speaking of humidity and warped doors, you are correct, and during the raining season that is a problem here, as well.)

 

 

 

 

Good luck with the tables. 

[Ralf001]

2 hours ago, GammaGlobulin said:

 

 

And, just out of curiosity, did anyone ever teach you how to do a proper citation of work that you wish to reference?

 

At the very least, do you happen to have a link/url?

 

 

My bad, here is the link.

https://www.google.com/

[Ralf001]

1 hour ago, impulse said:

I'd point out that if you perform steps 4 and/or 5, you can't do step 6.

Clear over base coat cannot be done ?

Since when ?

[degrub]

Take a look at clear epoxy used for bar tops and floors

 

something like this

https://www.homedepot.com/b/Paint-Interior-Paint-Countertop-Paint/WiseBond/N-5yc1vZc61sZq2k

 

Also, consider an overlay of polycarbonate. I would not use acrylic sheet as it scratches too easily.

Edited August 31, 2023 by degrub

[GammaGlobulin]

6 minutes ago, Ralf001 said:

My bad, here is the link.

https://www.google.com/

E+ for effort, if even that.

But, thank you, anyway...

 

[impulse]

8 minutes ago, Ralf001 said:

Clear over base coat cannot be done ?

Since when ?

6. Apply Protective Finish:

If you prefer a clear finish, choose a polyurethane or varnish suitable for wood.

Apply thin coats of the protective finish using a clean brush, roller, or sprayer. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for drying time and sanding between coats if necessary.

 

If you prefer a clear finish, priming and painting isn't in the cards.  So you can't do steps 4 or 5.

[GammaGlobulin]

4 minutes ago, degrub said:

Take a look at clear epoxy used for bat tops and floors

 

something like this

https://www.homedepot.com/b/Paint-Interior-Paint-Countertop-Paint/WiseBond/N-5yc1vZc61sZq2k

 

 

I think you may not be in Thailand.

Reason: I have often tried to access Home Depot, which is a store I often used in Florida.  However, from Thailand, I always get the same "access denied" when I try to click on a Home Depot link:

I definitely would like to be able to access Home Depot because there is much useful info to be had.

Maybe I will get a VPN someday...

 

 

 

 

[degrub]

3 minutes ago, GammaGlobulin said:

I think you may not be in Thailand.

Reason: I have often tried to access Home Depot, which is a store I often used in Florida.  However, from Thailand, I always get the same "access denied" when I try to click on a Home Depot link:

I definitely would like to be able to access Home Depot because there is much useful info to be had.

Maybe I will get a VPN someday...

 

 

 

 

Wisebond clear self leveling epoxy finish for bars and same for floors

https://www.wisebond.com/collections/bar-table-top-countertop-epoxy-resin

 

 

 

[GammaGlobulin]

1 minute ago, degrub said:

Wisebond clear self leveling epoxy finish for bars and same for floors

https://www.wisebond.com/collections/bar-table-top-countertop-epoxy-resin

 

 

 

I would definitely choose that for a coffee table, something with high gloss needed.

However, since these are computer tables and tables for several ovens, etc., then this might be overkill.

Looks great, but lot's of work.

 

Thanks!

 

[degrub]

Based on the environment and threats previously listed,  no finish will last more than a few years.  

Given the high humidity, many thin coats of polyurethane or spar varnish, possibly with a drying accelerant, i would expect would be required based on my experience along the US Gulf coast.  Expect to re-coat every few years.

 

if there are surface oils on the rubber tree wood, a good wipe down with alcohol before applying finishes would be a good idea. An alternative would be a thinned coat or two of shellac as a base.

Edited August 31, 2023 by degrub

[Ralf001]

19 minutes ago, impulse said:

6. Apply Protective Finish:

If you prefer a clear finish, choose a polyurethane or varnish suitable for wood.

Apply thin coats of the protective finish using a clean brush, roller, or sprayer. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for drying time and sanding between coats if necessary.

 

If you prefer a clear finish, priming and painting isn't in the cards.  So you can't do steps 4 or 5.

I always apply a clear finish over primer & paint process.

If end product requires a natural wood grain finish.. well then obviously no paint or primer, even a moron knows this...... one would hope !

[sometimewoodworker]

Some interesting suggestions, some rather time consuming, some I agree are good, others, not so much, 

 

My process in finishing, listed from the factory surface but excluding any decorative cuts goes like this.

1) finish sand to your preferred fineness (between 120 and 220 grit paper your choice)

 

2) blow off any dust remaining (I have almost none because I use Festool sanders and a Festool shop vac)

 

3) spray or paint the base sealer shellac (this may need to be denibbed) this can be the colour coat. Drying time is possibly more than 2 minutes depending on atmospheric conditions recoating time possibly as long as 10 minutes but as short a a minute, you may not require a second coat it depends on aesthetic choice. This is one brand there are at least 4 and the colours vary between brands, each one has at least 8 different colours, our village shop has just 2

 

4 spray or brush on RTB water based polyurethane (I spray until I have the surface milky white on a horizontal surface, this is a heavy coat) either gloss or semi matt, aesthetic choice. drying before recoating time is between 30 minutes and 2 hours depending on atmospheric conditions (as I spray I have managed 6 or 8 coats in a day just because I can 1 or 2 were enough) if you recoating you may need to denib.

EDIT the exterior poly is quite soft so not suitable for flat horizontal surfaces such as tables indoors, I haven’t used it outside so it maybe OK. NB do not thin it more than 5% ~ 10% ever, and thinning it will only be needed for spraying if you have limited spray equipment.

 

these are using coloured shellac on the draw faces each bank is a different number 

 

 

 

these are using No.8 shellac

Edited August 31, 2023 by sometimewoodworker

[GammaGlobulin]

1 minute ago, sometimewoodworker said:

Some interesting suggestions, some rather time consuming, some I agree are good, others, not so much, 

 

My process in finishing, listed from the factory surface but excluding any decorative cuts goes like this.

1) finish sand to your preferred fineness (between 120 and 220 grit paper your choice)

 

2) blow off any dust remaining (I have almost none because I use Festool sanders and a Festool shop vac)

 

3) spray or paint the base sealer shellac (this may need to be denibbed) this can be the colour coat. Drying time is possibly more than 2 minutes depending on atmospheric conditions recoating time possibly as long as 10 minutes but as short a a minute, you may not require a second coat it depends on aesthetic choice. This is one brand there are at least 4 and the colours vary between brands, each one has at least 8 different colours, our village shop has just 2

 

4 spray or brush on RTB water based polyurethane (I spray until I have the surface milky white on a horizontal surface, this is a heavy coat) either gloss or semi matt, aesthetic choice. drying before recoating time is between 30 minutes and 2 hours depending on atmospheric conditions (as I spray I have managed 6 or 8 coats in a day just because I can 1 or 2 were enough) if you recoating you may need to denib.

 

 

these are using coloured shellac on the draw faces each bank is a different number 

 

  1.07 MB · 0 downloads

 

these are using No.8 shellac

AMAZING info, and LOCALIZED info.

 

Thank you very much.

 

And cheap (low cost), too, it seems!

 

 

[sometimewoodworker]

50 minutes ago, Ralf001 said:

Clear over base coat cannot be done ?

Since when ?

Since never, I clear coat over base coats if I want a more durable surface.

[sometimewoodworker]

1 minute ago, GammaGlobulin said:

AMAZING info, and LOCALIZED info.

 

Thank you very much.

 

And cheap (low cost), too, it seems!

 

 

The shellac is not expensive, The RTB is not cheap and the only reliable source unless you live near Bangkok is from the RTB Lazada store.

[GammaGlobulin]

1 minute ago, sometimewoodworker said:

The shellac is not expensive, The RTB is not cheap and the only reliable source unless you live near Bangkok is from the RTB Lazada store.

Lazada is not a problem if one knows what one is looking for, and knows the supplier.

 

 

[sometimewoodworker]

5 minutes ago, GammaGlobulin said:

Lazada is not a problem if one knows what one is looking for, and knows the supplier.

For the RTB only buy from the RTB Lazada store, as it’s a water based finish it can (and very much does, DAMHIKT,) go off if stored too long. So other suppliers may be cheaper but the quality is not good to be the same as from RTB.

 

I have used quite a few litres of it  over the last 18 years (maybe 50+) so am very familiar with it