Lacessit Posted January 3 Share Posted January 3 52 minutes ago, sandyf said: Different cage that I built just a few years ago. The rust is just random patches a couple of inches in dia and not anywhere near fixings. No idea on the coating thickness, had to buy what Global had available at the time. Suspect they were just badly coated, unless something coming off the trees affected the coating. Unfortunately distance is a factor when driving with roofings sheets in the pickup so Global being just down the road is usual choice. It would have to be a really bad coating to rust that quickly. Do you have leaves, seeds etc. being deposited on the roof.? Does the roof stay wet for some time? I'm inclined to a hypothesis of a differential aeration cell, if that is the case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yellowtail Posted January 3 Share Posted January 3 4 hours ago, sandyf said: I have used a fair bit of 25mm x 1mm sq hollow section in the garden to prop up shrubs, some of it has been out there for over 10 years now and weathered well enough for me, still looks like just out of the warehouse. Unfortunately I can't say the same for the galv roofing sheets, after about 3 years rust holes started to appear. The coloured coated ones we got about 8 years ago have lasted an awful lot better. With those I think the paint may have gone on a zinc coating but when we wanted more Global said they were no longer available. Built these cat cages back in 2016. Do you raise cats? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yellowtail Posted January 3 Share Posted January 3 Some of that paper thin eletro plated stuff they wrap some coil in rusts pretty quick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandyf Posted January 3 Share Posted January 3 3 hours ago, Lacessit said: It would have to be a really bad coating to rust that quickly. Do you have leaves, seeds etc. being deposited on the roof.? Does the roof stay wet for some time? I'm inclined to a hypothesis of a differential aeration cell, if that is the case. Indeed, all sorts of crap as well as the leaves,geckos, squirrels, birds etc. Also that sticky mess that comes out of mango trees. Wouldn't surprise me if there was some chemical reaction involved. When it happens we just stick silicone sealant over it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandyf Posted January 3 Share Posted January 3 57 minutes ago, Yellowtail said: Do you raise cats? No, we don't raise them. My wife and her sister have a voluntary refuge for unwanted cats and when they come to us they are all vacinated and neutered. Think they have about 60 in residence at the moment. The photo was a new block 8 cages and there is an older block of 6 and 3 newer stand alones. The older block is roofed with old corrugated sheets that are probably about 40 years old. Fairly well rusted but the coating is still quite bright in parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickstart Posted January 3 Share Posted January 3 On 1/2/2024 at 12:29 PM, Yellowtail said: How thick? We never had any difficulty MIG welding galvanized up 0.8 to 3.5mm using CO2. It burns the GA off without any issue, and I don't think the ash is any more toxic than welding stick. The spatter is a PITA You have a MIG I have an ark welder, yes co2 will burn the GA off try it with an ark rod it sticks, and it will not ark well, and it will spatter more than on bear metal. Most GA I weld is pipe 3 mm pipe, last job was a gate for our cattle yard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lacessit Posted January 3 Share Posted January 3 3 hours ago, sandyf said: Indeed, all sorts of crap as well as the leaves,geckos, squirrels, birds etc. Also that sticky mess that comes out of mango trees. Wouldn't surprise me if there was some chemical reaction involved. When it happens we just stick silicone sealant over it. An example of a differential aeration cell is leaving thin polythene film such as GladWrap over a wet stainless steel surface, in which case stainless is no longer stainless after a week or so. Bare is best when it comes to galvanized, you may want to consider cutting down a few trees. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yellowtail Posted January 3 Share Posted January 3 5 hours ago, kickstart said: You have a MIG I have an ark welder, yes co2 will burn the GA off try it with an ark rod it sticks, and it will not ark well, and it will spatter more than on bear metal. Most GA I weld is pipe 3 mm pipe, last job was a gate for our cattle yard. Try 6011 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandyf Posted January 4 Share Posted January 4 20 hours ago, Lacessit said: you may want to consider cutting down a few trees. You are having a laugh. A couple of years ago we got 5000 baht from the Min of Ag for the number of fruit trees we have. Hell would freeze over before my wife and family would entertain cutting a healthy tree. We do lose quite a few naturally and as it happens the one next to the cages in question is now dead as a dodo, been killed off in the last year or so by a parasitic growth. The far bigger problem than rusting sheets is how to get it down, trunk about 4 ft dia and stands over 30 ft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lacessit Posted January 4 Share Posted January 4 1 hour ago, sandyf said: You are having a laugh. A couple of years ago we got 5000 baht from the Min of Ag for the number of fruit trees we have. Hell would freeze over before my wife and family would entertain cutting a healthy tree. We do lose quite a few naturally and as it happens the one next to the cages in question is now dead as a dodo, been killed off in the last year or so by a parasitic growth. The far bigger problem than rusting sheets is how to get it down, trunk about 4 ft dia and stands over 30 ft. Notch a big V in the trunk of the tree between waist and shoulder height with a chainsaw, in the direction you wish the tree to fall. If there is a wind blowing only attempt the task if the wind is in the same direction. The V should go in to a depth of at least one-third of the trunk diameter. Take the chainsaw to the opposite side of the tree, and make a single cut aimed at the apex of the V. When the cut starts to open, or you can see movement, walk at least fifteen metres away at a right angle to the fall direction. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sometimewoodworker Posted January 5 Share Posted January 5 (edited) 16 hours ago, Lacessit said: Notch a big V in the trunk of the tree between waist and shoulder height with a chainsaw, in the direction you wish the tree to fall. If there is a wind blowing only attempt the task if the wind is in the same direction. The V should go in to a depth of at least one-third of the trunk diameter. Take the chainsaw to the opposite side of the tree, and make a single cut aimed at the apex of the V. When the cut starts to open, or you can see movement, walk at least fifteen metres away at a right angle to the fall direction. The initial V cut should have the bottom virtually horizontal with the upper at about a 20~30 degree angle. The intersecting cut should also be nearly horizontal aimed to reach a little above the base of the initial cut. Felling a tree using a cut as high as you suggest is something best left to a professional. Of the many hundreds of trees I have felled (and seen felled) over the years I have never cut anywhere near the hight you suggest, I don’t say you shouldn’t leave the stump that high just that is a more difficult job. Edited January 5 by sometimewoodworker Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandyf Posted January 5 Share Posted January 5 16 hours ago, Lacessit said: Notch a big V in the trunk of the tree between waist and shoulder height with a chainsaw, in the direction you wish the tree to fall. If there is a wind blowing only attempt the task if the wind is in the same direction. The V should go in to a depth of at least one-third of the trunk diameter. Take the chainsaw to the opposite side of the tree, and make a single cut aimed at the apex of the V. When the cut starts to open, or you can see movement, walk at least fifteen metres away at a right angle to the fall direction. In the time I have been here we have dropped quite a few trees but this one is a bit more complicated,too much around to come straight down, the top branches are going to have to come off first. There is a building behind the shrub to the left. A bit of professional help and cherry picker will be required this time unless we are very lucky and some of the branches fall off first. Time will tell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sometimewoodworker Posted January 5 Share Posted January 5 16 minutes ago, sandyf said: In the time I have been here we have dropped quite a few trees but this one is a bit more complicated,too much around to come straight down, the top branches are going to have to come off first. There is a building behind the shrub to the left. A bit of professional help and cherry picker will be required this time unless we are very lucky and some of the branches fall off first. Time will tell. In my younger days I would have tackled that with a 9” chainsaw and climbing up it. I wouldn’t have used a cherry picker just cut it from the top down. While it would take a bit more time you can cut smaller sections and with a long enough rope you can avoid dropping them onto anything that is too easily damaged Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lacessit Posted January 5 Share Posted January 5 1 hour ago, sandyf said: In the time I have been here we have dropped quite a few trees but this one is a bit more complicated,too much around to come straight down, the top branches are going to have to come off first. There is a building behind the shrub to the left. A bit of professional help and cherry picker will be required this time unless we are very lucky and some of the branches fall off first. Time will tell. Given the lean on the tree, there's really only one practical way it can go, which may not suit in terms of collateral damage. I'd agree in this case lopping from the top down is safer. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandyf Posted January 5 Share Posted January 5 5 hours ago, sometimewoodworker said: In my younger days I would have tackled that with a 9” chainsaw and climbing up it. I wouldn’t have used a cherry picker just cut it from the top down. While it would take a bit more time you can cut smaller sections and with a long enough rope you can avoid dropping them onto anything that is too easily damaged We have all done things in our younger days that we can't do now. I will be 77 this year and my wife and her sister both in their 60s, we would all like to see another year. Professionals use a cherry picker because it is that much quicker. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yellowtail Posted January 5 Share Posted January 5 On 1/3/2024 at 2:48 PM, sandyf said: No, we don't raise them. My wife and her sister have a voluntary refuge for unwanted cats and when they come to us they are all vacinated and neutered. Think they have about 60 in residence at the moment. The photo was a new block 8 cages and there is an older block of 6 and 3 newer stand alones. The older block is roofed with old corrugated sheets that are probably about 40 years old. Fairly well rusted but the coating is still quite bright in parts. That's a bunch of cats! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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