overandout, cool job man. was not aware of the bent fork really. But possible after years of hard use and a couple of skirmishes.

it is good to hear that swingarm is fine as it is the most expensive part you can find on that bike.

i am waiting for the day you fully build it up! you know what you are doing as well, i wish i had that mechanical experience!

But checking a solution from my contacts regarding the upside down fork.

RSV racing possibly can fit something for you, did you check them? The girl June there can speak good English if you call them as they modify scooters and pocket bikes along with big bikes.

nice thread really!

So, an update on this is long overdue.

Last time round I had the donor bike as a rolling chassis.

Next to be removed was the front end which left the bike looking a bit sorry for itself:

The wheel looks OK, as do the yokes and stem. The bottom yoke is not Honda so presumably came with the forks, as being USD forks the tube is much bigger that the standard tubes that the yoke grips.

The top yoke however is standard CBR150 becasue the USD forks have a reduced diameter extended cap which acts as an extension of the upper fork tube. Neat idea as it also allows the standard clip on bars to be retained.

The bad news came after cleaning up and inspecting the forks: the seals are blown on both, and the chrome is pitted on the stanchions. I have tried in vain to identify the manufacturer of the forks but there is no markings on them and no-one recognises them so finding seals would be difficult even if I could get the stanchions re-chromed.

Then I noticed that one of the forks is slightly bent, so I'm afraid that they are destined for the Klong...

Some time was then spent investigating alternatives. I wanted to keep the idea of USD forks in the project bike and the closest I can find are Zoomer X forks which at the moment looks like they will accept the reduced diameter fork tops from the donor bike's forks, meaning that I can still use the original top yoke and bars. An added bonus is that the Zoomer forks (with the extension added) will be closer to the lenghth of the original conventional forks that the USD ones that came on the donor which were actually about 5cms short. Also the Zoomer has the same stem length, diameter, top nut thread and fork spacing on the yokes as the CBR, so I can chose to use either the bottom yoke and stem that came with the donor bike or the Zoomer part.

I could be wrong...but those look like the forks from the Tiger Boxer 250.

Perhaps a call to that factory, which is in Samut Prakarn, would be fruitful?

I think Pariya ie. the store may have moved? Ratchadpesik perhaps? Someone will know.

So, an update on this is long overdue.

Last time round I had the donor bike as a rolling chassis.

Next to be removed was the front end which left the bike looking a bit sorry for itself:

The wheel looks OK, as do the yokes and stem. The bottom yoke is not Honda so presumably came with the forks, as being USD forks the tube is much bigger that the standard tubes that the yoke grips.

The top yoke however is standard CBR150 becasue the USD forks have a reduced diameter extended cap which acts as an extension of the upper fork tube. Neat idea as it also allows the standard clip on bars to be retained.

The bad news came after cleaning up and inspecting the forks: the seals are blown on both, and the chrome is pitted on the stanchions. I have tried in vain to identify the manufacturer of the forks but there is no markings on them and no-one recognises them so finding seals would be difficult even if I could get the stanchions re-chromed.

Then I noticed that one of the forks is slightly bent, so I'm afraid that they are destined for the Klong...

Some time was then spent investigating alternatives. I wanted to keep the idea of USD forks in the project bike and the closest I can find are Zoomer X forks which at the moment looks like they will accept the reduced diameter fork tops from the donor bike's forks, meaning that I can still use the original top yoke and bars. An added bonus is that the Zoomer forks (with the extension added) will be closer to the lenghth of the original conventional forks that the USD ones that came on the donor which were actually about 5cms short. Also the Zoomer has the same stem length, diameter, top nut thread and fork spacing on the yokes as the CBR, so I can chose to use either the bottom yoke and stem that came with the donor bike or the Zoomer part.

I could be wrong...but those look like the forks from the Tiger Boxer 250.

Perhaps a call to that factory, which is in Samut Prakarn, would be fruitful?

Thanks for the input but they are not Tiger Boxer RS forks.

So, an update on this is long overdue.

Last time round I had the donor bike as a rolling chassis.

Next to be removed was the front end which left the bike looking a bit sorry for itself:

The wheel looks OK, as do the yokes and stem. The bottom yoke is not Honda so presumably came with the forks, as being USD forks the tube is much bigger that the standard tubes that the yoke grips.

The top yoke however is standard CBR150 becasue the USD forks have a reduced diameter extended cap which acts as an extension of the upper fork tube. Neat idea as it also allows the standard clip on bars to be retained.

The bad news came after cleaning up and inspecting the forks: the seals are blown on both, and the chrome is pitted on the stanchions. I have tried in vain to identify the manufacturer of the forks but there is no markings on them and no-one recognises them so finding seals would be difficult even if I could get the stanchions re-chromed.

Then I noticed that one of the forks is slightly bent, so I'm afraid that they are destined for the Klong...

Some time was then spent investigating alternatives. I wanted to keep the idea of USD forks in the project bike and the closest I can find are Zoomer X forks which at the moment looks like they will accept the reduced diameter fork tops from the donor bike's forks, meaning that I can still use the original top yoke and bars. An added bonus is that the Zoomer forks (with the extension added) will be closer to the lenghth of the original conventional forks that the USD ones that came on the donor which were actually about 5cms short. Also the Zoomer has the same stem length, diameter, top nut thread and fork spacing on the yokes as the CBR, so I can chose to use either the bottom yoke and stem that came with the donor bike or the Zoomer part.

I could be wrong...but those look like the forks from the Tiger Boxer 250.

Perhaps a call to that factory, which is in Samut Prakarn, would be fruitful?

Thanks for the input but they are not Tiger Boxer RS forks.

Sorry...but I did include the qualifier that I could be wrong...so I was right wasn't I?

Good luck on finding a replacement; I still have my CBR150 sitting around and this has planted a seed in my mind that made me want to subscribe to the thread.

overandout, cool job man. was not aware of the bent fork really. But possible after years of hard use and a couple of skirmishes.

it is good to hear that swingarm is fine as it is the most expensive part you can find on that bike.

i am waiting for the day you fully build it up! you know what you are doing as well, i wish i had that mechanical experience!

But checking a solution from my contacts regarding the upside down fork.

RSV racing possibly can fit something for you, did you check them? The girl June there can speak good English if you call them as they modify scooters and pocket bikes along with big bikes.

nice thread really!

Hi LL, no worries about the bent fork, it is subtle and there was no way you would have known if you hadn't been looking (which I knew you hadn't)!

The RSV option for the forks is an option that I don't really want to go down as that will mean buying brand new parts, and as you know brand new USD forks are never cheap!

I've gone so far down the route of investigating the Zoomer option that it looks like the way to go, and they are available in good condition used, even if they are still expensive.

Those Zoomer forks are Showa made USD cartridge forks so they will be good enough quality, and if I have to play around with manual spring pre-load and damping adjustment using different graded oils I am quite prepared to do that.

I have previously rebuilt a set of FZR750 forks which were bent in an accident using stanchions from another bike as the FZR was a grey import in the UK and the original stanchions could not be replaced easily. That involved lots of "trial and error" engineering and set up but worked very well in the end, so I'm not in un-chartered waters with this!

I too am looking forward to seeing the bike built up, but this was always meant to be a long term "keep me busy" project so I will not rush or compromise my family time with it, but it will get done!

What about the Tiger 250 theory.

Granted the fork top doesn't have the extra bit but.

I am trying to find out where Bike care moved to as they used to be Tiger spare parts seller.

^

I am pretty sure the Tiger fork is different. Different mounting of the front brake and front fender for example.

Can I add Nova Sonic RS to the list of bikes which might use the forks in question?

The Tiger forks would mean using the Tiger yokes and stem, which may or not be easy..... but it would be down to price I suppose.

The bike looks heavy also, would the springs not be to stiff?

I have no knowledge of the Nova Sonic RS....

They are most likely KSR forks, popular modification on NSR/CBR's.

scratch that, just checked, they look different.

Greetings

I guess this thread has been inactive for a while, so I thought I’d go ahead and share updates on a 2008 CBR150 that I acquired in March.

I bought the bike in Ko Samui and brought it back to Pattaya. The bike had been used by a farang during his 3-month stays on the island and stored inside the other 9.

It had been in an accident resulting in a dented tank.

Here is what I did to fix it up including the cost in baht of various fixes & upgrades.

New painted tank from Honda including float, float, valve, and rubbers. (3500)

New chain. (450)

Rear metal carrier. (650)

Givi 30 liter top-box & plate. (~3000)

Replaced some fairing plastic pieces. (~800)

Replaced fairing mounted mirrors with more functional (IMO) bar mounted type. (200)

Mesh seat cover. (250)

Recover pillion seat. (100)

New tires…stock sized Michelin Pilot Street (2600)

Powder coat (red): 4 foot peg mounts; L engine cover; handle bars & ends; & top triple piece. (1600)

Red rim tape. (250)

Red grips. (50)

Loud horn. (400)

Removed stickers and added some vinyl pin striping. (250)

50mm handle bar raisers: Machining & welding (600/pair); black powder-coat (200/2).

3” fork tube extensions (250/pair).

longer clutch cable from Phantom. (200)

(Self-designed) auto chain oiler: plastic (brake fluid) reservoir (50); primer bulb pump (50); some 1/8 “ drip irrigation tubbing & fittings (25); 8mm mounting bolt & nut. (55)

New front fork seals. (1200)

New headlamp bulbs. (150)

Spark plug. (130)

Carb clean (300)

Drilled 7mm hole in back plate of muffler.

So ~18,000baht spent.

The baby ceeber is running smooth and strong with ~9000km on odo.

Top end is ~140kph indicated with the box, slightly tucking, running 95 benzine.

For me, ~perfect.

I’m planning on Myanmar, Laos, & Cambodia in the next few months.

Here are the pics:

Headset area showing riser mod and plastic chain oil reservoir.

Chainsaw type oil bulb in center of photo.

Oiler tube coming down & thru chain guard.

Greetings

I guess this thread has been inactive for a while, so I thought I’d go ahead and share updates on a 2008 CBR150 that I acquired in March.

I bought the bike in Ko Samui and brought it back to Pattaya. The bike had been used by a farang during his 3-month stays on the island and stored inside the other 9.

It had been in an accident resulting in a dented tank.

Here is what I did to fix it up including the cost in baht of various fixes & upgrades.

New painted tank from Honda including float, float, valve, and rubbers. (3500)

New chain. (450)

Rear metal carrier. (650)

Givi 30 liter top-box & plate. (~3000)

Replaced some fairing plastic pieces. (~800)

Replaced fairing mounted mirrors with more functional (IMO) bar mounted type. (200)

Mesh seat cover. (250)

Recover pillion seat. (100)

New tires…stock sized Michelin Pilot Street (2600)

Powder coat (red): 4 foot peg mounts; L engine cover; handle bars & ends; & top triple piece. (1600)

Red rim tape. (250)

Red grips. (50)

Loud horn. (400)

Removed stickers and added some vinyl pin striping. (250)

50mm handle bar raisers: Machining & welding (600/pair); black powder-coat (200/2).

3” fork tube extensions (250/pair).

longer clutch cable from Phantom. (200)

(Self-designed) auto chain oiler: plastic (brake fluid) reservoir (50); primer bulb pump (50); some 1/8 “ drip irrigation tubbing & fittings (25); 8mm mounting bolt & nut. (55)

New front fork seals. (1200)

New headlamp bulbs. (150)

Spark plug. (130)

Carb clean (300)

Drilled 7mm hole in back plate of muffler.

So ~18,000baht spent.

The baby ceeber is running smooth and strong with ~9000km on odo.

Top end is ~140kph indicated with the box, slightly tucking, running 95 benzine.

For me, ~perfect.

I’m planning on Myanmar, Laos, & Cambodia in the next few months.

Here are the pics:CBR 150 L.JPGCBR150 R.JPG

Headset area showing riser mod and plastic chain oil reservoir.

CBR headset.JPG

Chainsaw type oil bulb in center of photo.

CBR oil bulb.JPG

Oiler tube coming down & thru chain guard.

CBR oiler.JPG

looks cool man.

I loved my old carbed cbr150r which i used for 3 years in Thailand. had lots of mods as well which was costlier than yours. That time no plans on upgrading or getting another bike but here we go, upgraded it.

It was going close to 160 kph - no rpm limiter on mine due to the aftermarket ecu, 13,000 rpm!, rpm needles broke all the time:) - at its best times but always had the feeling like riding a grenade about to explode

Just be careful for the cams and carb spitting the pins into the cylinder!

overall, a fun little bike and can be fixed easily.

Hey this is my thread !!

Actually, my project is going so slow I feel a bit ashamed to post!

But there has been progress (no pictures yet though, I'll see if I can get them up later).

So, I have still not sourced any forks, but I am certain that I will be using MSX / Zoomer X USD units mated to the fork tops that came off the USDs that were fitted originally. Its just a case of finding a set at a reasonable price. They will then either be re-valved and re-sprung (expensive) or at least heavier oil added for some cheap extra damping.

I have stripped down the swing arm to nothing, but one of the pivot bearings was seized and I cannot drift it out (I even snapped my hammer trying!) so I have been in touch with Sumetcycle and the swing arm will be going for new bearings and also I will try to order the various circlips and other ancillaries that I need to rebuild it.

I also finally stripped the carb and top end of the engine from the donor bike!

The carb needle is still intact and in place, and as I reported earlier the cam chain had jumped off the exhaust cam sprocket.

Taking off the head was easy and at first I could see no damage to head or crown of the piston. But after removing the piston I tried to remove the rings. That's when I became suspicious. The top ring seemed to be pinched in its groove and I had to be quite forceful to get it out. On close inspection a very slight mark can be seen on the front left of the piston crown, presumably due to light contact with one of the exhaust valves.

Cleaning up the combustion chamber of the head confirmed this theory. Actually both of the exhaust valves seem to be slightly bent, but the left one is worse. So that is certainly the cause of the demise of this motor. The piston is now a nice ashtray!

The piston is a replacement one but it is standard bore, so there are not really any parts in the donor engine that I want for the project bike, but I'll keep it for spares just in case.

So, the next steps are really to get the forks, take the swing arm up to Sumetcycle and order some parts for the rear hub. Then I can take my running bike off the road and start stripping it down ready for its new running gear!

On that topic, I need a way of staying mobile while the final build is ongoing so if anyone knows of a really cheap running bike I can use to get to work on for a few months let me know! (it has to be cheaper than renting).

I now have an added incentive to take the running bike off the road because some idiot in a Volvo knocked me off the other day. I was stopped and he/she (they didn't get out of the car and I couldn't see in) just drove into my front wheel! The bike fell over and sent me sprawling into the road. No harm done to me, but something is up with the front end as the wheel no longer rolls freely, as if the brake was binding. Probably a bent spindle or something. The only compensating factor is that the impact cracked the front bumper of the Volvo which is probably going to cost more to repair than my bike

So here are some photos of the progress in my post from earlier:

The rear hub from the single sided swingarm:

And the engine:

Head and barrel and piston off!

This is the combustion chamber (look at the exhaust valves...)

A straight edge across the buckets shows how the valves aren't closing properly:

The piston "looks" OK...

But is actually only good for this....

More to come, sometime....

New (well, used) forks have been ordered!

Was quoted 12,000 Baht by a breaker near BKK, found a set privately for half that price....

Now I'm just praying that I don't need to put new springs and valves in them to suit the CBR, because I can only find one supplier for that, a company called Race Tech in the US and they don't come cheap!

New (well, used) forks have been ordered!

Was quoted 12,000 Baht by a breaker near BKK, found a set privately for half that price....

Now I'm just praying that I don't need to put new springs and valves in them to suit the CBR, because I can only find one supplier for that, a company called Race Tech in the US and they don't come cheap!

I used Race Tech springs in my Ninja 250...best mod I did. I see prices have gone up quite a bit though.

I don't doubt that for a moment.

Race Tech do a full re-valve kit for the Zoomer / MSX forks which includes stiffer springs and longer damper rods to increase the static length of the fork.

I do need to increase the length to get close to the standard CBR forks, but I already have extended fork tops that will increase the external length of the upper tube. Then I will have to extend the damper rods anyway to match the longer externals, if I extend the damper rods by a few cms more than the height of the tube extenders then I will effectively doing the same as Race Tech do by selling longer rods.

The trouble is that Race Tech also include much better valves than standard ones, I will make do with some heavier oil to try to increase the damping effect and see how it goes.

That will only leave the springs... obviously I can't do anything except increase preload by inserting spacers, so I'll just go by trial and error and see if I think it is worth spacing the standard springs or not.

I figure that this all has to be worth a go as it will cost me the equivalent of around $10 instead of Race Tech's Kit price of $400....

Don't get me wrong, I'm sure their kit is worth it, but I can't justify shelling out that much (plus whatever import duties I'd get stung with) before I see what I can do for myself. And really, spending upwards of $500 on suspension for a 10 year old CBR 150 is a bit tricky to explain to the wife!

Now I'm just praying that I don't need to put new springs and valves in them to suit the CBR, because I can only find one supplier for that, a company called Race Tech in the US and they don't come cheap!

I used Sonic Springs from the US

$79 + $42 shipping so $121 total shipped Priority Air to Thailand

Rich the owner there really knows his stuff. If your bike is not listed just email him

Your forks dont have valves ( if your talking about a stock fork) but if you want valve emulators that is what Race Tech sells

IMO you do not need them but that is a choice for you.

Good non-progressive straight rate springs to suit your weight ( use his calculator ) with proper spacer length & good oil

will make an enormous difference over stock.

Good Luck

Mania,

In theory I agree with you. Reading the Race Tech site says that damper rod style forks (as opposed to cartridge forks) need one of their valve emulators, but they then don't list a valve emulator for the MSX!

Instead they sell a Gold Valve Kit, which does look to be quite an improvement, now if that Gold Valve Kit is in fact a set of what they also call valve emulators, I don't know.

With regards to the springs, the problem with the Race Tech calculator is that it assumes that the forks are on the original bike, but any adjustment to the springs that I need will not show up using it because I'm not much of a fat lad. The adjustment that I need would be due to the use of the forks in the CBR instead of the original bike.

Also, although the forks in the MSX and the Zoomer are "the same", I don't know if the springs inside are.... The Race Tech site assumes that they are MSX forks, but the ones I have ordered are off a Zoomer X (because as I explained earlier the yokes which come with the Zoomer front end are the correct spacing for the CBR whereas the yokes from the MSX are wider), so I may be starting with a different spring to start with!

Mania,

In theory I agree with you. Reading the Race Tech site says that damper rod style forks (as opposed to cartridge forks) need one of their valve emulators, but they then don't list a valve emulator for the MSX!

Instead they sell a Gold Valve Kit, which does look to be quite an improvement, now if that Gold Valve Kit is in fact a set of what they also call valve emulators, I don't know.

With regards to the springs, the problem with the Race Tech calculator is that it assumes that the forks are on the original bike, but any adjustment to the springs that I need will not show up using it because I'm not much of a fat lad. The adjustment that I need would be due to the use of the forks in the CBR instead of the original bike.

Also, although the forks in the MSX and the Zoomer are "the same", I don't know if the springs inside are.... The Race Tech site assumes that they are MSX forks, but the ones I have ordered are off a Zoomer X (because as I explained earlier the yokes which come with the Zoomer front end are the correct spacing for the CBR whereas the yokes from the MSX are wider), so I may be starting with a different spring to start with!

Hi OO

You know on the Valve Emulators that is all they will ever bee a poor emulation of a valve with no real adjustments anyway.

Also with the emulators in order for them to work you need to drill holes in you damper.

While not a big deal it is just another deal & in the end the difference for what you will spend IMHO is going to be negligible

especially given what you just said about weight.

On the subject of weight/springs etc etc trust me email Rich

Rich has raced & done setups for a looong time.

Tell him what you have & your specs & he will get you where you need to be. Although he also has a calc on his site

http://www.sonicsprings.com/catalog/calculate_spring_rate.php?osCsid=888eeda88377f627266f8a97f372076c

For myself I like it a but stiffer so used closer to a race rate on the springs & between Aggressive & race on the ride calc.

Use both & you will get a general idea or again just talk to Rich

At the end of the day a good damper fork setup properly for the one riding it & type of riding is as good as it gets for that fork.

Save the money you were going to spend on the emulators for good tires/brake etc or just save the $$$

You can contact Rich here [email protected] see what he says & besides his springs are top class & much better priced than Race Tech

This arrived yesterday!!

That should get me motivated to progress !!

Sweet.

Giddy-up.

Found this photo of a 2007 CBR150 'Ninija' online;

so many possibilities....

Yeah, I saw that too!

He says its got "fibre panels", I suppose he means GRP. From some angles they look out of proportion, but mainly it looks good. At least more modern.

I already have a plan for the aesthetics of my project, and they do not involve making look like a modern Kawasaki! The details shall remain a secret, just in case I never get round to it!!

He is asking a lot of money for that green machine though.

Finally, some movement on the project!

Things were stagnating because the running bike was, against all odds, still running and in daily use, meanwhile I had cleaned and stored all of the parts of the donor bike. So a few weeks back I took the plunge and hired a scooter and took the running CBR off the road.

The strip down of this bike has now begun:

The fairings are all off, degreased and cleaned ready for paint, but that will be the last thing I do, if I ever get that far!

I'm now down to this:

So this weekend it will be engine out, and hopefully front and rear end out too.

The NSR Pro-Arm in the donor bike had been fitted to the CBR frame using the original CBR 13mm diameter swing arm bolt.

This had required the sleeving down of the pivot internals in the swing arm because the NSR uses a 15mm pivot bolt. I wasn't very happy with the parts used for that, looking like home-made parts:

After giving it a lot of thought, I decided that I would use an alternative method to refitting the Pro-Arm into my frame, by using all Honda original pivot bolt, new bearings and spacers and seals. I also bought a new hub housing as the existing one had been damaged in the past, a few clips that were broken and new cush-drives for the sprocket. Also ordered up new fork seal kit for the used Zoomer front end.

Big thanks to Brian at Sumet for his help and advice so far!

So I am now faced with a challenge; the holes in the frame castings are obviously made for the 13mm CBR pivot bolt, so I now need to drill / grind these out to accept the NSR 15mm pivot... any suggestions on that?

The next challenges that I have discovered were on doing a trial fitting of the NSR front wheel in the Zoomer forks.

Obviously, I knew that the NSR disc was bigger than the Zoomer disc, buty the only caliper adapter plates that I can find for Zoomer / MSX are to mount a 220mm disc, but the NSR disc is 298mm. Looks like I'll have to get a custom bracket made up. Anyone any idea where I could get that done?

The other problem, which I had completely overlooked is that the disc on the NSR is on the right side, but the Zoomer has the disc on the left.... I can fit the wheel "backwards" of course, which solves the disc mount problem, but the speedo drive will then run backwards....

I am therefore on the hunt for any Honda which has the speedo drive on the right side of the front wheel, and preferably uses a 17" wheel so that the gearing of the drive will be correct. Suggestions on a postcard please...

Endever to persevere.

Enjoy your journey... The CBR 150 Chronicles

CBR 150 rider 2