Lifan 200 Cross

[ktm jeff]

Nice one Allan. Get the oil changed , as early as now , with fully synthetic. This will help engine and gear selection. Lube clutch cable. Enjoy.

[papa al]

Syntho in a new Lifaan.

Ohhhh.

But that is contra conventional wisdom sir.

Papa has been seeking since 1966 the best way to break-in an engine.

A plethora of opinions.

A dearth of data.

[ktm jeff]

Todays engines may require less break-in than yesterdays engines , and there are different opinions on the best way. There an American on Google who suggests ( with very good technical information to back this up ) its best to run the engine at short but high revs ( up to 75% of red line ) through all the gears and on a light load. Changing oil as early as 50KM. Do this on a quiet road as not to over heat the engine in traffic. Continue short / medium high rev bursts till about 250KM. By now its almost fully bedded in , use as normal. The high revs bed the piston rings in quickly , as not to glaze the bores. Fully synthetic motorbike specific oil ( will have MA code on the bottle ) lasts longer , and handles heat better than standard oil.

[papa al]

An American on Google.

Who needs more?

[taninthai]

They do not recommend putting fully synthetic oil into a new engine ,but then again what do I know.the wrong and incorrect Info given out on this forum is indeed astounding.......????

[canuckamuck]

Just for interest sake, I thought I should say that I have agreed to sell my 2010 Lifan Cross. I was offered 25k. Not bad for a bike that was 46k new.

So I got 5 years out of it at 4200 baht a year. I'd say I got some value out of it.

[pokerkid]

They do not recommend putting fully synthetic oil into a new engine ,but then again what do I know.the wrong and incorrect Info given out on this forum is indeed astounding.......????

indeed, its noob city here

[AllanB]

The dealer uses Elf Semi synthetic and I think that should do just fine and running in I just don't over rev (no tacho) about 3500 tops and don't labour the engine either.

This engine is very basic engineering, which suits me fine and if I get 5 years out of it and even throw it away I will be happy as Larry. With a powerplant available at 10,000 baht it could go on forever...Unfortunately I can't, perhaps Lifan should make hearts and livers?

It is just a fun bike, gives MrsB her Wave back and I intend to use it in all situations including touring, with self preservation in mind...worryingly it is fast around town, though I am aware of the off-road tyres and cornering. No knee down then......

[AllanB]

Another little update.

I intended to fit a Givvy box on the bike, no can do, as I will lose half the passenger space, so it will have to be soft luggage.

Went to fit a halogen bulb, only to find it already had one, doh!, but a real non-standard type and that's not good, so intend changing the whole lamp assy maybe for a twin unit, like the Baja Honda. I have always liked the looks of the Baja, but not available here in LOS. If we can get the Wave through the Laos border will try to hire a Baja.

The engine has now started to loosen up, coming up to 200km and what a flexible engine, with a strong pull through a wide band, even bearing in mind I am keeping below 4000rpm (est) and always two up. Some while ago I suggested fitting a Lifan 200 in a Phantom, which was a bit of a tongue in cheek comment, now I am sure it would be better, the effective rev range is so much wider in terms of torque compared to the torque-free Honda unit, where you are forever changing gear, which I found very tiring in traffic.

The Lifan 200 will pull in almost any gear once you get going.

[MAZ3]

Givi box from Yamaha,they welded and modifed a Yamaha rack to Lifan rack. 1800B for the box and about 500B for the rack,I did ask them as far back possible. Making sure the seat was still usable for a passenger.,and I asked her and no problems.

[AllanB]

I hear what you say Maz, but an inch will make all the difference (said the actress to the bishop), what with my fat arse and my wife's beautiful curves added together.

My rack is nylon coated too, which becomes a real mess if welded, polyester the more common coating is easier to deal with.

Before anyone comments about the word "nylon", no it isn't exactly nylon but used to be called that in the trade.

[papa al]

Givi plate will bolt on, no mods.

Bias it aft as practicable.

Back rest for lady.

[AllanB]

Givi plate will bolt on, no mods.

Bias it aft as practicable.

Back rest for lady.

Yeh, offered it up and would be more than 1/2 hanging off to retain all the seatroom, plus a hard backrest could be mai-dee for MrsB's back with a bit of unexpected clumsy driving.

Looking to build a pair of tank bags to distribute the weight and then use a couple of soft wetbags for the rear.

[papa al]

looking at photo in #220

vs photo of bike with red bag,

seems box is more aft than bag

by a couple of inches

splain dat

[AllanB]

I think they about the same, but the bag is a cushion and sinks back a little. We took the bike to the shop and offered my wife up, if she will pardon the expression.

We will put all the soft stuff in the bag, plus a little air, since the bag is airtight.

Disappointing as we also wanted it for the Wave too this weekend, which now has a rear rack. Only 1600 baht for the box, good quality.

It is just as well as if they won't allow the Wave in, we can use the bag on the hire bike.

Edited December 8, 2015 by AllanB

[AllanB]

85k could have knocked him down a little if I go and collect ,but 4hour round trip me to lazy.great condition for 3 year old bike

Missed you posting Tanin, looks like a nice bike, did you buy it? Was it as good as it looks in the photos?

[papa al]

papa like the duffle bag approach.

Alt schule, ya.

More voluminous v box.

Extra funky-points for rice bag(s).

(Available in KK)

Lash two together and throw across tank, presto.

I'm told having something firm to lean back on is very comforting to the pillion.

The stated load capacity of these boxes is modest, like 5-6kg.

Handy on trips for rain gear, maps, water, snacks, tissue, jacket, &c.

Allan, regardless of bike, keep close tabs on tire pressure, oil, and chain tension.

Very steep n twisty, Laos.

Very.

Edited December 8, 2015 by papa al

[AllanB]

papa like the duffle bag approach.

Alt schule, ya.

More voluminous v box.

Extra funky-points for rice bag(s).

(Available in KK)

Lash two together and throw across tank, presto.

I'm told having something firm to lean back on is very comforting to the pillion.

The stated load capacity of these boxes is modest, like 5-6kg.

Handy on trips for rain gear, maps, water, snacks, tissue, jacket, &c.

Allan, regardless of bike, keep close tabs on tire pressure, oil, and chain tension.

Very steep n twisty, Laos.

Very.

Why Papa gone all Geeerman, Papa fancy Angular Merkle? That's kinky......

On the Wave it will be a wetbag across the back and a rucksack between my legs, lightweight stuff only like snacks and maps in MrsB's backpack as too much weight is not good for he back we discovered in VN.

Just had the bike serviced so should be good, new chain/sprockets 1,000km ago, lubed yesterday.

That bag in the picture is half our stuff, including warm fleeces, so we are travelling light, in VN we had 10kg in total.

[Dutchbike]

papa like the duffle bag approach.

Alt schule, ya.

More voluminous v box.

Extra funky-points for rice bag(s).

(Available in KK)

Lash two together and throw across tank, presto.

I'm told having something firm to lean back on is very comforting to the pillion.

The stated load capacity of these boxes is modest, like 5-6kg.

Handy on trips for rain gear, maps, water, snacks, tissue, jacket, &c.

Allan, regardless of bike, keep close tabs on tire pressure, oil, and chain tension.

Very steep n twisty, Laos.

Very.

Why Papa gone all Geeerman, Papa fancy Angular Merkle? That's kinky......

On the Wave it will be a wetbag across the back and a rucksack between my legs, lightweight stuff only like snacks and maps in MrsB's backpack as too much weight is not good for he back we discovered in VN.

Just had the bike serviced so should be good, new chain/sprockets 1,000km ago, lubed yesterday.

That bag in the picture is half our stuff, including warm fleeces, so we are travelling light, in VN we had 10kg in total.

The Laotioans have no problem loading up a bike :-) ( note the extra sidestands)

[thaiguzzi]

Searching for a bit of info on the Lifan engine and found this Youtube video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bSgfuX9entU.

The first thing that struck me was the terminology he used to differentiate between an OHC and pushrod engine.

Exactly the same I used, and took a load of abuse for from a certain "know it all" here, when I suggested both types are OHV.

So others clearly use the same terminology, so perhaps certain people should be a little more relaxed in case yet again they find themselves wrong.

Now onto the subject matter, if true I found it interesting that the original engine was based on a conventional OHC engine but then redesigned to make it more easily serviced.

Okey dokie.

I'll bite.

Been away on a road trip, finished servicing the family's Waves, our farm truck and tractor (ex. valve clearance 0.016" instead of 0.008"!!), today is a Buddha day and i'm not allowed to hit a nail with a hammer. Plenty of time. Day off. Read this post.

That video:-

11 minutes of suspense and total excitement to get to the final chapter. Hooray - it's got pushrods!!! If he'd researched/googled a bit (i'm sure South Carolina or wherever has google as the guy can make a You Tube vid), he would not have had to keep the world in suspense until he finally got to remove the rocker cover. All those CG style China OHV clones have a slotted plug at the bottom of the L/H side barrel where the cam followers rotate on. All OHC China clones have a cam chain adjuster at the rear of the barrel, and a top end that has a blatantly obvious looking OHC look, many inc a round cover for cam sprkt removal.

So, you, and Redneck Hillbilly Bubba are right. And me, the tens of thousands of worldwide text books, workshop manuals, the millions of grease monkeys (mechanics/technicians to you) worldwide are wrong.

I'm so sorry, we must not call a modern engine design OHV, OHC, DOHC, we must call them "sidecams" for OHV and OHC must be "valves in the 'ead". Again, my, and all qualified worldwide mechanics, designers, authors humbly aplogise for being incorrect, and shown the error of our ways by Bubba and yourself.

I certainly do not "know it all", but i know a fair bit, having never NOT owned 2 wheels since i was 16, ridden over 250k miles, and worked both proffessionally and as my main hobby, on bikes all my adult life. You, er, have got a Wave, let the local shop change plugs, change oil, and adjust your chain, and...?

Your final point; you are in fact correct. The OHV CG series Hondas were developed from the CB OHC series for developing Asian markets.

[thaiguzzi]

The dealer uses Elf Semi synthetic and I think that should do just fine and running in I just don't over rev (no tacho) about 3500 tops and don't labour the engine either.

This engine is very basic engineering, which suits me fine and if I get 5 years out of it and even throw it away I will be happy as Larry. With a powerplant available at 10,000 baht it could go on forever...Unfortunately I can't, perhaps Lifan should make hearts and livers?

It is just a fun bike, gives MrsB her Wave back and I intend to use it in all situations including touring, with self preservation in mind...worryingly it is fast around town, though I am aware of the off-road tyres and cornering. No knee down then......

This is my final advice on this particular topic. Change the oil. Now. today. You do not know what the Chinese use on final assembly in their factories, but i guarantee it ain't Grade A. Not even Grade B. As i mentioned before, go onto the ChinaRiders.com forum, click onto the dual sport / enduro section. There is a wealth of info on there about the 200cc China clones (both OHC and OHV). In the States, these bikes are delivered in a crate to the customer, with the front end and little odds 'n sods needing fitting. No dealer service network whatsoever. Hence you're on your own, hence that forum is a useful place for help and ideas.

They all say, change the oil on the FIRST heat cycle. Various descriptions of the oil coming out vary from gloop, goo, mud, to detergent, washing up liquid. None of the descriptions relate to new (newish) oil.

My reccomended oil for your Lifan 200cc would be straight Honda 30w. Cheap, available everywhere and a quality product. It needs something thicker like a straight 30, rather than a 10/40w or similar as the motor has a roller brg big end, ball mains, ie no shells and no split rod cap. Just like a Wave... Would'nt bother with a semi synthetic. It will, if looked after, comfortably run to 50k miles running on straight mineral Honda 30w.

My last piece of advice to you is keep the missus off the back of the bike for at least the first 500 miles (800 kms). Ride solo, till this distance is covered. The motor wants the least amount of strain on it as possible those first few miles. Most owners hand books state this, even bigger bikes like my Triumph T140, my Guzzi 950 Cali, BMW's older R80/90 wrote this in their owner's guides.

Take it or leave it...

Edited December 10, 2015 by thaiguzzi

[Richard-BKK]

The dealer uses Elf Semi synthetic and I think that should do just fine and running in I just don't over rev (no tacho) about 3500 tops and don't labour the engine either.

This engine is very basic engineering, which suits me fine and if I get 5 years out of it and even throw it away I will be happy as Larry. With a powerplant available at 10,000 baht it could go on forever...Unfortunately I can't, perhaps Lifan should make hearts and livers?

It is just a fun bike, gives MrsB her Wave back and I intend to use it in all situations including touring, with self preservation in mind...worryingly it is fast around town, though I am aware of the off-road tyres and cornering. No knee down then......

This is my final advice on this particular topic. Change the oil. Now. today. You do not know what the Chinese use on final assembly in their factories, but i guarantee it ain't Grade A. Not even Grade B. As i mentioned before, go onto the ChinaRiders.com forum, click onto the dual sport / enduro section. There is a wealth of info on there about the 200cc China clones (both OHC and OHV). In the States, these bikes are delivered in a crate to the customer, with the front end and little odds 'n sods needing fitting. No dealer service network whatsoever. Hence you're on your own, hence that forum is a useful place for help and ideas.

They all say, change the oil on the FIRST heat cycle. Various descriptions of the oil coming out vary from gloop, goo, mud, to detergent, washing up liquid. None of the descriptions relate to new (newish) oil.

My reccomended oil for your Lifan 200cc would be straight Honda 30w. Cheap, available everywhere and a quality product. It needs something thicker like a straight 30, rather than a 10/40w or similar as the motor has a roller brg big end, ball mains, ie no shells and no split rod cap. Just like a Wave... Would'nt bother with a semi synthetic. It will, if looked after, comfortably run to 50k miles running on straight mineral Honda 30w.

My last piece of advice to you is keep the missus off the back of the bike for at least the first 500 miles (800 kms). Ride solo, till this distance is covered. The motor wants the least amount of strain on it as possible those first few miles. Most owners hand books state this, even bigger bikes like my Triumph T140, my Guzzi 950 Cali, BMW's older R80/90 wrote this in their owner's guides.

Take it or leave it...

Lifan recommend that you use SAE15W/40-SE engine oil, and which brand you're happy with is fine...

[thaiguzzi]

Another little update.

I intended to fit a Givvy box on the bike, no can do, as I will lose half the passenger space, so it will have to be soft luggage.

Went to fit a halogen bulb, only to find it already had one, doh!, but a real non-standard type and that's not good, so intend changing the whole lamp assy maybe for a twin unit, like the Baja Honda. I have always liked the looks of the Baja, but not available here in LOS. If we can get the Wave through the Laos border will try to hire a Baja.

The engine has now started to loosen up, coming up to 200km and what a flexible engine, with a strong pull through a wide band, even bearing in mind I am keeping below 4000rpm (est) and always two up. Some while ago I suggested fitting a Lifan 200 in a Phantom, which was a bit of a tongue in cheek comment, now I am sure it would be better, the effective rev range is so much wider in terms of torque compared to the torque-free Honda unit, where you are forever changing gear, which I found very tiring in traffic.

The Lifan 200 will pull in almost any gear once you get going.

Yes, they are a torquey little number for what they are. But the torque you are referring to, compared to something like a 200cc OHC Phantom is gearing.

It's called gearing Allan.

The primary gearing (twixt engine and gearbox) will probably be different (don't know, don't care), and the secondary gearing (twixt gearbox and back wheel) will definetely be substantially different. Gearbox and rear wheel sprockets.

Thats why a Lifan X Cross is a nifty little number round town, and is buzzing it's tits off flat out on the highway at 90 kms per hour, being passed by all and sundry. For off road work , the X Cross gearing is nigh on perfick.

This is also why a Phantom will cruise comfortably all day at 100-110 kms per hour. I know, 'cos a mate followed me and my Guzzi back from CM for 700 odd clicks on one, in some places he was even hitting 120. I was quite impressed.

It's called gearing Allan.

For further info, if, like the majority of Stateside bike owners of this type of Chinabike, buy their bikes for 85/15 or 90/10 on road/off road use, it's all in the previous mentioned forum where changing sprkts for a more road biased gearing is a constant topic. The Americans it seems get bored very quickly riding flat out at 55 mph on a tarmac road. Me too.

[thaiguzzi]

The dealer uses Elf Semi synthetic and I think that should do just fine and running in I just don't over rev (no tacho) about 3500 tops and don't labour the engine either.

This engine is very basic engineering, which suits me fine and if I get 5 years out of it and even throw it away I will be happy as Larry. With a powerplant available at 10,000 baht it could go on forever...Unfortunately I can't, perhaps Lifan should make hearts and livers?

It is just a fun bike, gives MrsB her Wave back and I intend to use it in all situations including touring, with self preservation in mind...worryingly it is fast around town, though I am aware of the off-road tyres and cornering. No knee down then......

This is my final advice on this particular topic. Change the oil. Now. today. You do not know what the Chinese use on final assembly in their factories, but i guarantee it ain't Grade A. Not even Grade B. As i mentioned before, go onto the ChinaRiders.com forum, click onto the dual sport / enduro section. There is a wealth of info on there about the 200cc China clones (both OHC and OHV). In the States, these bikes are delivered in a crate to the customer, with the front end and little odds 'n sods needing fitting. No dealer service network whatsoever. Hence you're on your own, hence that forum is a useful place for help and ideas.

They all say, change the oil on the FIRST heat cycle. Various descriptions of the oil coming out vary from gloop, goo, mud, to detergent, washing up liquid. None of the descriptions relate to new (newish) oil.

My reccomended oil for your Lifan 200cc would be straight Honda 30w. Cheap, available everywhere and a quality product. It needs something thicker like a straight 30, rather than a 10/40w or similar as the motor has a roller brg big end, ball mains, ie no shells and no split rod cap. Just like a Wave... Would'nt bother with a semi synthetic. It will, if looked after, comfortably run to 50k miles running on straight mineral Honda 30w.

My last piece of advice to you is keep the missus off the back of the bike for at least the first 500 miles (800 kms). Ride solo, till this distance is covered. The motor wants the least amount of strain on it as possible those first few miles. Most owners hand books state this, even bigger bikes like my Triumph T140, my Guzzi 950 Cali, BMW's older R80/90 wrote this in their owner's guides.

Take it or leave it...

Lifan recommend that you use SAE15W/40-SE engine oil, and which brand you're happy with is fine...

That's ok too, but the reason i'd stick to a Honda branded straight 30w, is it's designed for a ball/roller mains and big end motor, and more importantly, it is sold in every town, city and smallest village throughout SE Asia, let alone Thailand. Very handy when you are on a long run, in the middle of nowhere and it's oil change time, or for some reason a side cover has to come off in the boondocks and you lose some oil.

I personally like to stick to the same oil weight AND brand name on all my particular vehicles - car, bike, truck, tractor. So the Guz and my Trump run Pennzoil 20/50 mineral for Diesel engines since they've been here. The Vigo runs a ridiculously thin Mobil 1 semi synthetic since we've owned it in 9 years. I don't like to change different brands nor viscosity per oil change.

[papa al]

how come?

[Richard-BKK]

The dealer uses Elf Semi synthetic and I think that should do just fine and running in I just don't over rev (no tacho) about 3500 tops and don't labour the engine either.

This engine is very basic engineering, which suits me fine and if I get 5 years out of it and even throw it away I will be happy as Larry. With a powerplant available at 10,000 baht it could go on forever...Unfortunately I can't, perhaps Lifan should make hearts and livers?

It is just a fun bike, gives MrsB her Wave back and I intend to use it in all situations including touring, with self preservation in mind...worryingly it is fast around town, though I am aware of the off-road tyres and cornering. No knee down then......

This is my final advice on this particular topic. Change the oil. Now. today. You do not know what the Chinese use on final assembly in their factories, but i guarantee it ain't Grade A. Not even Grade B. As i mentioned before, go onto the ChinaRiders.com forum, click onto the dual sport / enduro section. There is a wealth of info on there about the 200cc China clones (both OHC and OHV). In the States, these bikes are delivered in a crate to the customer, with the front end and little odds 'n sods needing fitting. No dealer service network whatsoever. Hence you're on your own, hence that forum is a useful place for help and ideas.

They all say, change the oil on the FIRST heat cycle. Various descriptions of the oil coming out vary from gloop, goo, mud, to detergent, washing up liquid. None of the descriptions relate to new (newish) oil.

My reccomended oil for your Lifan 200cc would be straight Honda 30w. Cheap, available everywhere and a quality product. It needs something thicker like a straight 30, rather than a 10/40w or similar as the motor has a roller brg big end, ball mains, ie no shells and no split rod cap. Just like a Wave... Would'nt bother with a semi synthetic. It will, if looked after, comfortably run to 50k miles running on straight mineral Honda 30w.

My last piece of advice to you is keep the missus off the back of the bike for at least the first 500 miles (800 kms). Ride solo, till this distance is covered. The motor wants the least amount of strain on it as possible those first few miles. Most owners hand books state this, even bigger bikes like my Triumph T140, my Guzzi 950 Cali, BMW's older R80/90 wrote this in their owner's guides.

Take it or leave it...

Lifan recommend that you use SAE15W/40-SE engine oil, and which brand you're happy with is fine...

That's ok too, but the reason i'd stick to a Honda branded straight 30w, is it's designed for a ball/roller mains and big end motor, and more importantly, it is sold in every town, city and smallest village throughout SE Asia, let alone Thailand. Very handy when you are on a long run, in the middle of nowhere and it's oil change time, or for some reason a side cover has to come off in the boondocks and you lose some oil.

I personally like to stick to the same oil weight AND brand name on all my particular vehicles - car, bike, truck, tractor. So the Guz and my Trump run Pennzoil 20/50 mineral for Diesel engines since they've been here. The Vigo runs a ridiculously thin Mobil 1 semi synthetic since we've owned it in 9 years. I don't like to change different brands nor viscosity per oil change.

For similar reasons we always recommend PTT Challenger 4T 10W-40 for the average motorcycle and PTT Hi-Speed 4T for the small-engine sporty motorcycles.

You can find the same engine oil at all PTT petrol stations, and it’s easy to obtain as the Thai also pronounce it as Challenger and Hi-Speed… (Okay a bit with a funny accent). Even in Laos and Cambodia you can find enough PTT petrol stations. Even a few PTT petrol stations on popular routes in Myanmar…

[thaiguzzi]

Exactly. Ease of purchase and a ready constant stock of your favourite quality oil is a huge plus factor when travelling. Nothing worse than a motor being used to say Castrol 20/50 all its life, something happens, oil change or just a top up needed, and ya gotta throw in say Motul 10/30 or Shell 15/40. It'll get you home, but it annoys me.

[papa al]

papa changes brands all the time.

So changing to one steady brand would be a change and hence not good, guess.

[thaiguzzi]

how come?

Well viscosity wise, not so much these days. Its always the same per individual bikes. In the old days on our Brit bikes in the UK, it was straight 30W in the winter and straight 40W in the summer. Silkolene our preferred brand.

Brandwise, i dunno, can't give you a definitive answer why i always like to try and use the same brand per individual vehicle. Another constant perhaps? Old fashioned?