Old 110v flourescent light in Thailand

[bamboozled]

So...I'lI have an old movie light from the 1930's arriving from the USA and I would like to use it in Thailand. It's a funky cool conversation piece; the light it puts out is not beautiful but the object itself is pretty rad. It consists of 8 fluorescent light fixtures (ballast, starter, and all that other good stuff). What is my best bet on using it here? I'm thinking if I plug it in all the fluorescent light stuff will fry (I did not ship it with the tubes because of breakage factor). Not sure if light tubes bought here would light at all or not. The other idea would be to run it on a step down transformer BUT would 220 fluorescent tubes light at all? Third option would be to rewire the whole thing though I fear I would not be able to fit the parts correctly into the 1930's architecture. I guess the fourth option is to secure, somehow, 110 tubes. Doesn't sound fun.Thoughts anyone?

[bankruatsteve]

Interesting.  I think it would work OK if you can find tubes that fit.  Maybe need to replace ballast with one designed for 220V.  

[bamboozled]

Yeah it is a very cool huge heavy steel construction, too. I have some pics of it somewhere but I couldn't locate them. As soon as I do, I'll post them up. Tubes in the States were easy enough to find so I don't think that part will be a problem.

[Crossy]

The 60Hz ballasts are not going to be happy on 50Hz even with a transformer.

 

If you can get tubes to fit length and pin-spacing wise then just get local tubes and electronic ballasts and re-wire the beast. The ballasts will certainly be smaller than the current magnetic ones.

 

If it's all existing 1930s innards I wouldn't trust the insulation now anyway.

[bamboozled]

I have plugged it in and used it in the US though not for long periods of time so it does work. If I can't find the pics I already have I'll take some new ones once it gets here next month. I do remember the wiring being quite old as I had to do a little hacker work in the back to get it going. Thanks for the input.

 

What's the deal, older ballasts are 60HZ and newer ones 50HZ?

[bamboozled]

Found 'em!

[Crossy]

9 minutes ago, bamboozled said:

What's the deal, older ballasts are 60HZ and newer ones 50HZ?

 

No, as well as being 120V the US is 60Hz, Thailand is 50Hz.

 

60Hz ballasts may saturate on 50Hz and will also have too low an impedance to limit the tube current to safe levels leading to reduced tube life. It's possible you could make it work on a 100V (Japanese) transformer but to be honest just re-wiring it for 220V has to be the safest option.

 

Looking at the photos I wouldn't be connecting that to the power anywhere. But it looks like a nice easy re-wire if you can get tubes to fit.

 

[bamboozled]

I understand. Once I have it in hand I'll have a look and see if it's an easy thing to do. Hopefully newer hardware will fit correctly. I could just add fluorescents without the ballast, yes?

 

 

[bamboozled]

...a couple pics of the space where the hardware goes and the reflector that the tubes sit above.

[Crossy]

3 minutes ago, bamboozled said:

I could just add fluorescents without the ballast, yes?

 

You will need 50Hz ballasts to replace those "interesting" black boxes.

 

Get electronic ballasts, easy to wire.

 

You could use LED tubes, but that may kill the "look" of the beast.

 

EDIT Those are 20W tubes (8 x 20 = 160), you'll need to find tubes that will fit. With luck "2 foot" (actually 23") 18W tubes should fit. 

 

[bamboozled]

I can't imagine using it for movie work. It only puts out 160 watts of ugly green light. I suppose with black and white film the color temp didn't matter but...that's not much light! And quite flat light, too.

 

Beast indeed.

 

I suppose re-wiring it is going to kill it on the collectability scale.

[Crossy]

2 minutes ago, bamboozled said:

I suppose re-wiring it is going to kill it on the collectability scale.

 

Keep all the bits you strip out so if a rabid collector wants to return it to original he can.

 

As it is it's not going to be safe.

 

[bamboozled]

Good idea. Are the electronic ballast lights....seemingly without ballast? I know I have bought some fluorescents recently with no ballast and no igniter (as far as I can tell). They come on immediately. I'm thinking to fit in those, if possible. Is that what you intend by "electronic ballast?"

[Crossy]

7 minutes ago, bamboozled said:

Good idea. Are the electronic ballast lights....seemingly without ballast? I know I have bought some fluorescents recently with no ballast and no igniter (as far as I can tell). They come on immediately. I'm thinking to fit in those, if possible. Is that what you intend by "electronic ballast?"

 

There's a small box somewhere, unless the "fluorescents" you bought are actually LEDs ????

 

https://www.homepro.co.th/homePro/th/Construction-Electrical-Lighting-Accsessories-Ballasts/BALLAST-ELECTRONIC-LPF-18W-LAMPTAN/p/1025929

 

Easy and light enough to fit using double-sided tape to avoid damaging the original structure.

 

[wgdanson]

59 minutes ago, bamboozled said:

Found 'em!

What a monstrosity. Why not fit LED tubes if you really like the fitting.

[bamboozled]

Indeed it IS a monstrosity! What do LED tubes look like?

 

Hmm, I'll have to look at the "fluorescents" I have. I don't know where the ballast could possible be.

[sometimewoodworker]

8 minutes ago, bamboozled said:

Indeed it IS a monstrosity! What do LED tubes look like?

Some look exactly like fluorescent tubes others not so much.

Not so much 

Exactly like fluorescent tubes

Edited July 28, 2019 by sometimewoodworker

[bamboozled]

Ah! Yes, that's what I have, the ones on the bottom. They sure do look like fluorescents. I think that is my best bet for putting in the beast. The best part about this thread is I have nailed down, finally, how to spell "fluorescent."

[digbeth]

you can get led tubes shaped like fluorescent tubes that don't require ballast or starter to work, so you can keep the old ballast for looks, otherwise rewiring with a new style ballast won't look good. the old bayonet should work too

[Wirejerker]

Be aware the LEDs have a beam angle between 160 -320 degrees where the fluorescents angle is 360 degrees. The leds will throw less light back into the fitting’s reflectors giving a light and dark stripe look. If it is ambience you want you should go the 18 watt fluorescent tube with the electronic ballasts


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[sometimewoodworker]

2 hours ago, Wirejerker said:

 

Be aware the LEDs have a beam angle between 160 -320 degrees 

 

Mine tubes have a 330 degree beam angle.

 

the drop ceiling ones about 220 degrees as that is a more effective spread.

Edited July 31, 2019 by sometimewoodworker

[bamboozled]

Thanks guys! Are the "bayonets" the two prongs coming out of each end? It should arrive soon after which I can start experimenting.

[sometimewoodworker]

3 hours ago, bamboozled said:

Thanks guys! Are the "bayonets" the two prongs coming out of each end? It should arrive soon after which I can start experimenting.

They are exactly the same physical ends and length as fluorescent tubes, T5 or T8

[Wirejerker]

They are exactly the same physical ends and length as fluorescent tubes, T5 or T8

Putting myself out on a limb now but I agree with STWW you have a t8 fitting for a 18/20 watt fluorescent tube. The bayonet cap is an older type of fitting witch has stood the test of time but not for your app.

 

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[Wirejerker]

Witch with a h


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