Buying an SUV in Thailand. What to check for?

[thaitanic]

I'm planning to buy an SUV in Bangkok in the next couple of weeks. Probably a couple of years-old Ford Everest 2.0 Bi-Turbo Titanium+ 4x4 10A/T. Not sure if I'll buy from an agent or privately. There aren't huge numbers of them around.

 

I've not been involved much with vehicles for a long time, other than renting from time to time. I'd like to compile a list of things to check for. Found these on another post and it seems like a good start:

 

1. Google owner's phone number to make sure the car was never rented.
2. Check for stamped service record every 10k in service history book. (is this realistic for a 2+ year old car?)
3. Check for oil change record every 50k.
4. Radiator has water instead of coolant.

 

Anything else?

 

Is checking for a chassis number matching an engine number still a thing? How about tire tread depth? How to check if major repairs have been done?

Edited November 25, 2020 by thaitanic

[liddelljohn]

Oil changes in engine should be every 10k  or once a year ,,,   Gearbox or auto oil every 50-70k

 

you need a mixture of coolant and water  as the coolant has corrosion inhibitors   even in Thai climate

 

check for oil leaks  ,

[fredob43]

The 2lt Bi-turbo have had some very bad reports of oil leaks in the engine. Give it a good look over in that respect. If you don't know what your looking for suggest you don't buy one. 

 

To check on my report there are some very good posts from Thai Ford owners club on the internet, about the 2lt Bi-Turbo Suggest you look those up.  

[JAS21]

Everest Club Thailand and Ford Everest Club Australia are two FB groups, I belong to both ... worth  reading and maybe even joining

[Techno Viking]

21 hours ago, thaitanic said:

1. Check for stamped service record every 10k in service history book. (is this realistic for a 2+ year old car?)

 

1st service is at15,000 and at intervals of 15,000 there after.

[DavisH]

The minor update for the nissan terra has just been released. It may be worth a look as its quite a bit cheaper than the ford but still has a strong twin turbo engine, even in 2wd spec. I paid 150K more for my crv than this, but it looks pretty loaded. Suspension is said to be close to the everest in comfort too.  

http://www.headlightmag.com/official-price-nissan-terra-my2020-2/

[teacherclaire]

Not sure if I'll buy from an agent or privately. 

 

A compression test and a thorough check of the frame. chassis is very useful. Thailand does repair totally destroyed vehicles that don't even drive straight anymore.

 

  All used cars seem to have around 100,000 km. Don't believe them, they turn the clock back.

 

A good mechanic can see if that's true by removing the cam cover and have a look how it wore off.

 

   Never trust anybody and forget agents. They want money and they do all for it. 

 

 

[Techno Viking]

12 hours ago, teacherclaire said:

Not sure if I'll buy from an agent or privately. 

 

A compression test and a thorough check of the frame. chassis is very useful. Thailand does repair totally destroyed vehicles that don't even drive straight anymore.

 

  All used cars seem to have around 100,000 km. Don't believe them, they turn the clock back.

 

A good mechanic can see if that's true by removing the cam cover and have a look how it wore off.

 

   Never trust anybody and forget agents. They want money and they do all for it. 

 

 

 

hahahahaha, good luck finding a seller that will let you remove the cam cover to inspect the valvetrain !!

[1FinickyOne]

On 11/26/2020 at 9:43 PM, Techno Viking said:

 

1st service is at15,000 and at intervals of 15,000 there after.

For diesel... right?

[teacherclaire]

16 minutes ago, kenk24 said:

For diesel... right?

No way. I change my oil at my Mitsu Diesel L 200 2.8 l every 5,000 km, clean the airlifter and check other stuff.

 

Ford tells people to either change every 5,000 miles, or 10,000 km.

 

I know that I'm on the safe side with 5 K. I've got 321,000 km on the clock, engine runs like a Swiss clock. 

 

   

Edited November 28, 2020 by teacherclaire

[Techno Viking]

14 minutes ago, kenk24 said:

For diesel... right?

yes, the vehicle that is the subject of this thread "Ford Everest 2.0 Bi-Turbo" is Diesel.

Edited November 28, 2020 by Techno Viking

[teacherclaire]

On 11/27/2020 at 10:11 AM, Techno Viking said:

 

hahahahaha, good luck finding a seller that will let you remove the cam cover to inspect the valvetrain !!

But it's an easy procedure to see how long an engine was running. 

[Techno Viking]

1 minute ago, teacherclaire said:

No way. I change my oil at my Mitsu Diesel L 200 2.8 l every 5,000 km, clean the airlifter and check other stuff.

 

   

 

Yeah my old clunker I did the same, Current ride is by the book..... atleast until the warranty period has finished anyways.

[Techno Viking]

1 minute ago, teacherclaire said:

But it's an easy procedure to see how long an engine was running. 

 

Do you also ask to put the vehicle on a hoist and remove the gearbox to inspect the clutch life ?

[teacherclaire]

15 minutes ago, Techno Viking said:

 

Do you also ask to put the vehicle on a hoist and remove the gearbox to inspect the clutch life ?

Nonsense. But if a seller doesn't want a compression check, then don't buy.

 

That tells you enough about an engine, but it's too difficult for most garages, as they do not have a compression tester. I do. 

 

 

[Techno Viking]

1 minute ago, teacherclaire said:

Nonsense. But if a seller doesn't want a compression check, then don't buy.

 

That tells you enough about an engine, but it's too difficult for most garages, as they do not have a compression tester. I do. 

 

 

Glad to hear sellers (private and tents) are so accommodating let you undertake these checks.

[Lacessit]

Buffalo hair in the undercarriage.

[Techno Viking]

1 hour ago, teacherclaire said:

 

 

Ford tells people to either change every 5,000 miles, or 10,000 km.

 

 

 

   

 

Wouldn't Ford staff tell people to change their oil in accordance to the owners manual specified service intervals  ?

Edited November 28, 2020 by Techno Viking

[sungod]

If its only a couple of years old, personally I'd go for a new vehicle. Second hand prices are too high IMHO in Thailand.

[1FinickyOne]

3 hours ago, teacherclaire said:

I change my oil at my Mitsu Diesel L 200 2.8 l every 5,000 km, clean the airlifter and check other stuff.

They got you babe... 

[Peterphuket]

On 11/26/2020 at 12:46 AM, liddelljohn said:

Oil changes in engine should be every 10k  or once a year ,,,   Gearbox or auto oil every 50-70k

 

you need a mixture of coolant and water  as the coolant has corrosion inhibitors   even in Thai climate

 

check for oil leaks  ,

Oil change every 10K or 2 times a year, thats what they say by Toyota, and now I here the same by Isuzu

[Migrosmarket]

Firstly.... Ford have a promotion at present, which closes the gap considerably on the 2nd hand prices of the newer cars... may be worth the extra.

 

Secondly, buy from a dealer I say. Because you can make a judgement on your chosen vehicle by how they present their others, how long they have been trading, how well they receive you etc etc..... and you can ensure they do all the leg work in the lengthy and complicated transfer/taxing/insurance process. If any seller says "just take this form to the Land Transport Dept thats all you need" walk away! A whole world of pain awaits if you have parted with your money because then the seller doesn't care anymore. A dealer will have the whole job done in a couple of hours.

 

As to what to look for in the ford.... 

 

To check for accident damage look at bolt heads everywhere. Even in/under the load area. Replaced panels will have unpainted bolts. Some bolts are even dotted so it is easy to tell if they have been removed and put back in a slightly different position.

 

Look along the body panels to check for dents, misalignment or paint that looks different from one panel to another. Look closely at the paint for a different finish to adjacent panels or the same panel on the other side... like bubbles or a rough looking lacquer (overspray). Check around rubber and plastic trims for paint edges or overspray on the rubber. Check doors for even gaps around the edges.

 

Look under rubber car mats at the carpet. Is it water stained? Like it has been in a flood? Is it damp? Is there a musty smell?

 

On a test drive take your hands off the steering wheel.... does the car stay straight or wander to one side? When braking does the car pull to one side?

 

Does the interior and exterior condition fit with the km on the clock? Is it well cared for? If not.... how likely is it that the servicing etc has been done properly? There should be receipts for servicing and stamps.... check them. If none.... walk away.

 

As regards mechanics/brakes etc.... you need to take someone along who knows what to look for if you want to be sure so they can get underneath with a torch and check joints for leaks and broken rubber gaiters and the like. Obviously the higher the km the more the tyres and brake discst/pads will have worn so you can expect to replace this sort of stuff quite quickly after purchase if going for high km cars.

 

Personally I think the best way to check a used car is to wash and dry it. When you do this properly you see all sorts of scratches, dents, poor finishes, tar and oil stains you will miss when just doing a walk round inspection.

 

I bought a late 2018 Ford Everest 2.0 10 speed Titanium+ 2WD (single turbo) in Sept from a dealer and the whole experience was brilliant (I did have help with some communications from my Thai GF) and the car is fantastic. Had very specific requirements the Asian manufacturers could not fulfill. Plenty of power from the 2WD. Considered a 4WD but why do I need one really? 

[Migrosmarket]

Also... yes check chassis number to log book. A chassis number is under the drivers door on the everest.

 

Log book shows all owners and number plate registrations so you can see how many owners it has had... but you will need to read thai to be certain you are looking at the right things!

 

If a dealer... ask about previous owner and how they got the car. Does what they say sound reasonable and fit the condition of the car and the log book.

 

If no log book available immediately... walk away.... there is no good reason not to have it.

[hotchilli]

On 11/26/2020 at 12:38 AM, thaitanic said:

• Google owner's phone number to make sure the car was never rented.
• Check for stamped service record every 10k in service history book. (is this realistic for a 2+ year old car?)
• Check for oil change record every 50k.
• Radiator has water instead of coolant.

Do a history check to verify usage.
Check dealership records for servicing.
If the oil/filter has not been changed twice a year every 6mths regardless of mileage... don't buy it.
Check all fluids not just water.
Only a personal view... small engine with turbo is a recipe for disaster. [it strains the engine]
Better to buy a larger CC non turbo engine.

Other than that lift all the carpets, check under to see wear & tear, door handles, rubber on pedals, door seals, anything that will give-away signs of excessive use.

Checks all the engine belts, timing belts/chains etc.

If it's automatic do a transmission test to check any slippage.

Checks brake disks for sign of wear, things that can't be hidden with some spit & polish.

 

[brianthainess]

Ref compression test;   almost any car, If it ain't blowing blue smoke and running on all four cylinders, then i would say a compression test is unwarranted. Take it for a road test, floor it, acceleration good or not? when you get back and its nice and hot, check under for fuel/oil/water leaks etc. oil change with synthetic 10,000 klm, non synthetic 5,000. Coolant is a grey area, I put coolant in a plastic radiator which most of them are now, and it started leaking on the top neck hose fitting, research told me the coolant is an acid and this is exactly where it said it would leak, the new rad had a sticker, 'no coolant of any kind'  translated to me as 'not put any kind of ya'. also check electric cooling fan motors are working correctly without A/C on.

[brianthainess]

1 minute ago, brianthainess said:

Ref compression test;   almost any car, If it ain't blowing blue smoke and running on all four cylinders, then i would say a compression test is unwarranted. Take it for a road test, floor it, acceleration good or not? when you get back and its nice and hot, check under for fuel/oil/water leaks etc. oil change with synthetic 10,000 klm, non synthetic 5,000. Coolant is a grey area, I put coolant in a plastic radiator which most of them are now, and it started leaking on the top neck hose fitting, research told me the coolant is an acid and this is exactly where it said it would leak, the new rad had a sticker, 'no coolant of any kind'  translated to me as 'not put any kind of ya'. also check electric cooling fan motors are working correctly without A/C on.

 

[Peter Denis]

... and most important check whether the 'pussy magnet' has been installed and is working properly.

Borat Sagdiyev

 

[canthai55]

3 hours ago, brianthainess said:

 research told me the coolant is an acid

8.0 to 8.5

 

Modern coolant/antifreeze will have a pH of only 8.0 to 8.5, that's about the alkalinity of an egg white.

[THEN]

Suggest you get a Paint Thickness Tester.

It will allow you to check paint thickness and give you a chance to see if the car has been damaged/repainted.

There are testers available on Lazada from 240 thb (search for "auto paint test thickness")

 

[Lacessit]

47 minutes ago, canthai55 said:

8.0 to 8.5

 

Modern coolant/antifreeze will have a pH of only 8.0 to 8.5, that's about the alkalinity of an egg white.

Correct. No coolants are acid, it is circulating through metal passages and acids attack metal.