You might find it easier to disconnect the water hose and pull the sink.  There is usually just a bead of silicone holding them in place.  Beats the hell out of laying on your back with restricted access.

33 minutes ago, bankruatsteve said:

You might find it easier to disconnect the water hose and pull the sink.  There is usually just a bead of silicone holding them in place.  Beats the hell out of laying on your back with restricted access.

Just did that last week, no way my hand was gonna fit behind the sink.

One screw in the wall (should have been 2), undo the hose, and it lifts right off.

Drain connector was already broken and needed replacing.

On 6/19/2021 at 11:23 AM, bankruatsteve said:

What I call a slip wrench or plumber's wrench should do it. 

My local DIY shop guy says "just hand tighten or the thread/ring will break".

Surprised he spoke perfect English.

1 hour ago, BritManToo said:

Just did that last week, no way my hand was gonna fit behind the sink.

One screw in the wall (should have been 2), undo the hose, and it lifts right off.

Drain connector was already broken and needed replacing.

I have a decent size sink set in a marble top, so I imagine there will be a fair bit of weight to it. Don't want to do something stupid like crack the marble, but I can't see being able to access everything any other way.

2 minutes ago, giddyup said:

I have a decent size sink set in a marble top, so I imagine there will be a fair bit of weight to it. Don't want to do something stupid like crack the marble, but I can't see being able to access everything any other way.

Give it a go.  Probably easier than you think.  A screwdriver under the sink flange should let you know how it's been sealed.  My large SS sink on granite pops right out no problem.

On 6/18/2021 at 9:23 PM, sometimewoodworker said:

It won’t be easy to cut and certainly not without leaving an exposed ring of steel that’s a prime spot for rust to start. It’s far better to get a size that doesn’t need cutting, I speak from experience. 

Indeed, good advice

What appears to be Stainless Steel Tube is nothing more than Bright Nickel Plated Steel to give the appearance of Stainless.

 

Do yourself a favour and keep a small bucket handy when you remove the trap. After 13 years it is likely to be full of crud. That way you can put the whole lot in the bucket and not make too much mess.

I can't imagine a plumbing task much easier than removing the drain from a bathroom sink. That big nut should come right off (assuming you're using men's hands) and if it doesn't, get  big pair of Channellocks and help it. 

 

 

 

4 minutes ago, Cake Monster said:

Indeed, good advice

What appears to be Stainless Steel Tube is nothing more than Bright Nickel Plated Steel to give the appearance of Stainless.

 

Perhaps the ones at the twenty-baht store, but the ones I have used are chrome-plated brass. 

18 minutes ago, Yellowtail said:

Perhaps the ones at the twenty-baht store, but the ones I have used are chrome-plated brass. 

You must go to the high end Hardware Stores.

Me I use Watsadu ????

2 minutes ago, Cake Monster said:

You must go to the high end Hardware Stores.

Me I use Watsadu ????

 

Well, there you go.

5 hours ago, Cake Monster said:

Indeed, good advice

What appears to be Stainless Steel Tube is nothing more than Bright Nickel Plated Steel to give the appearance of Stainless.

 

The old one lasted about 10 years so hopefully I'll get another 10.

5 hours ago, Yellowtail said:

I can't imagine a plumbing task much easier than removing the drain from a bathroom sink. That big nut should come right off (assuming you're using men's hands) and if it doesn't, get  big pair of Channellocks and help it. 

 

 

 

It's the access that's the problem, there is a built in under the sink and there is no way to get my hands around that big nut. I have ordered a big socket spanner that will hopefully fit it, I don't really want to take the sink out if I can help it.

8 hours ago, giddyup said:

It's the access that's the problem, there is a built in under the sink and there is no way to get my hands around that big nut. I have ordered a big socket spanner that will hopefully fit it, I don't really want to take the sink out if I can help it.

 

I get that, I'm a fat old man. Sit on a bucket and get a pair of these:

 

On 6/18/2021 at 10:17 PM, giddyup said:

That steel is as thin as paper,

Indeed it is, however the Crome coating is as slick as glass and very hard, this is why cutting it cleanly and leaving a smooth finish isn’t as easy as you suggest. 

20 minutes ago, sometimewoodworker said:

Indeed it is, however the Crome coating is as slick as glass and very hard, this is why cutting it cleanly and leaving a smooth finish isn’t as easy as you suggest. 

Won't be necessary, the pipe I bought is the same length as the old one, so no cutting needed.

1 hour ago, Yellowtail said:

 

I get that, I'm a fat old man. Sit on a bucket and get a pair of these:

 

 

2 hours ago, Yellowtail said:

 

I get that, I'm a fat old man. Sit on a bucket and get a pair of these:

 

Thanks. I didn't think I had enough room to get some multi grips in there, but I did. Grate is now removed, now to find one that fits the thread of the new trap.

2 minutes ago, giddyup said:

Thanks. I didn't think I had enough room to get some multi grips in there, but I did. Grate is now removed, now to find one that fits the thread of the new trap.

 

These parts are (per may experience)  are pretty universal. What is the brand of the trap you bought? 

 

Glad the plyers worked out.

6 minutes ago, Yellowtail said:

 

These parts are (per may experience)  are pretty universal. What is the brand of the trap you bought? 

 

Glad the plyers worked out.

The label on the box says VKO, but the thread on the trap and the one on the grate are different. Look to be the same diameter, but won't screw together.

7 minutes ago, giddyup said:

Look to be the same diameter, but won't screw together.

Like I said in my first post, that can be a challenge.  Suggest you take the trap part to a Home place and look for something that fits.  

2 minutes ago, bankruatsteve said:

Like I said in my first post, that can be a challenge.  Suggest you take the trap part to a Home place and look for something that fits.  

Will do.

So I bought a new sink outlet, one that the new trap fits, but do you think I can get a good seal so the outlet doesn't leak underneath? There is a rubber gasket on top and also underneath and a big brass nut that screws up and holds it all tight, but somehow water is still leaking around the gaskets somewhere. Do I have to resort to putting silicone top and bottom to get a good seal?

6 minutes ago, giddyup said:

So I bought a new sink outlet, one that the new trap fits, but do you think I can get a good seal so the outlet doesn't leak underneath? There is a rubber gasket on top and also underneath and a big brass nut that screws up and holds it all tight, but somehow water is still leaking around the gaskets somewhere. Do I have to resort to putting silicone top and bottom to get a good seal?

That means that the fitting is not on correctly, a little silicone grease/oil or Vaseline as a lubricant on the rubber will help, as will PTFE tape on threads. 

2 minutes ago, sometimewoodworker said:

That means that the fitting is not on correctly, a little silicone grease/oil or Vaseline as a lubricant on the rubber will help, as will PTFE tape on threads. 

I read that vaseline(petroleum jelly) is the worst thing you can use on rubber gaskets, but I think silicone may be the only answer.

Just now, giddyup said:

I read that vaseline(petroleum jelly) is the worst thing you can use on rubber gaskets, but I think silicone may be the only answer.

 

I've been using Vaseline on gaskets for over fifty years without issue. Seems to work great for me.

 

Do you mean silicone grease or silicone calking?  

3 minutes ago, Yellowtail said:

 

I've been using Vaseline on gaskets for over fifty years without issue. Seems to work great for me.

 

Do you mean silicone grease or silicone calking?  

Silicone clear sealant. It appears as though this was used previously as I had to scrape old sealant off under the sink. I only have the brass nut screwed on finger tight as I don't have enough room to get my multi grips in there. Have ordered a socket spanner fro Lazada, so maybe the nut needs to be tightened a bit more.

On 6/19/2021 at 11:23 AM, bankruatsteve said:

What I call a slip wrench or plumber's wrench should do it.  Any of the Home places will have and not much.  Actually, those are supposed to be hand tighten so you may give that a try first.

Another way is to hammer tap a screwdriver on the nut until it loosens.

This was the result of a "google" I bought one locally after struggling with the nut on the faucet..Plumber's Basin Faucet Sink Wrench Tool Device

If the contact areas on the sink are clean, and the parts are assembled correctly you should not need any tools or sealant. 

 

Make sure the contact areas are clean and the gaskets are oriented correctly. 

 

 

Why buy from Lazarda?  Most local hardware shoe would sell he fitting you show, and you can see exactly what you are getting.  if you buy locally it will not only be cheaper, but more likely to fit the existing pipework