Plumbing

[bankruatsteve]

Any plumbers out there that can describe best technique for using the white wrap for screw in fittings?

In the old days I used a string but here there only seems to be the wrap available. I first tried about 4 wraps. Leaks. Then 4 more. Leaks. Then 4 more. Leaks. Then I put about half the dam_n roll on and finally got a fit.. So, is there a special techniique to use or is a LOT the way to do it?

Thanks.

[CDNinKS]

You are referring to Teflon tape.

First,wrap it right to left, so as you turn the fitting in, it tightens it on. Second, pull it tight into the threads of the fitting as you wrap it in. When you apply it correctly it will look like it has been sprayed on. If you need more than about 6 wraps, you might have either the wrong fitting or the fitting is damaged.

[longball53098]

I'm a DIY plumber and from my experience here in LOS most if not all fittings such as valves for the sink and stop valves for the toilet and sinks are all made poorly and do not mate to the correct sized threaded pipe fittings. If you watch a Thai plumber he will use huge amounts of the teflon tape also. JUst a few wraps will almost guarantee a leak and then you have to try again.

I read on some site here that the pipe threads should be made in a tapered fashion rather than threaded straight all the way in to the fitting and this causes a loose joint and does not seal.

Any master plumbers out there?

[Artisi]

longball53098 is right on the money regarding the "fit" of threads in Thailand. The majority of threaded components are pretty aweful with regards to size, you might have noticed that in many cases you can screw something onto or into another component and it "bottoms out" before tightening into the thread, this makes it very difficult to seal usually requiring lots of thread tape. I always use thread tape and a teflon thread paste I have which can withstand something like 3000psi. No more leaks.

[cheshiremusicman]

longball53098 is right on the money regarding the "fit" of threads in Thailand. The majority of threaded components are pretty aweful with regards to size, you might have noticed that in many cases you can screw something onto or into another component and it "bottoms out" before tightening into the thread, this makes it very difficult to seal usually requiring lots of thread tape. I always use thread tape and a teflon thread paste I have which can withstand something like 3000psi. No more leaks.

I agree that this is the only way to get a 'leak free joint'. The 'thread paste' is the real solution as it takes up the looseness of the poorly manufactured threads.

[bankruatsteve]

I have asked at Home Pro and Global if they have paste but just get the shrug and blank stare. Any hints on where to find? Brand name?

BTW: the leak problem almost always occurs when the fitting "bottoms out" as described by Artisi. So, if I can find the paste would I still use a LOT of tape for this situation or just a few wraps?

Thanks!

[Artisi]

I would still tend to use a fair bit of tape, as for buying the paste, sorry - I brought mine with me from Oz however, I would check at an engineering supplier not HomePro etc.

[bkkbill]

Everyone seems to agree on this one. And yes longball53098 is right about the lack of taper on the threads. I have started using black pvc electrical tape. Works like a charm.

[bankruatsteve]

I would still tend to use a fair bit of tape, as for buying the paste, sorry - I brought mine with me from Oz however, I would check at an engineering supplier not HomePro etc.

Engineering supplier in Isan? Would that be Tesco or 7-11?

Anyway... thanks for all the feedback. Cheers.

[CDNinKS]

I was assuming you were referring to NPT (National pipe thread) fittings, and these of course "should" be tapered. Pipe thread and pipe threaders are totally different than a die used for NC (national course) or NF (National fine) which cuts constant diameter threads.

I do believe that quality in fittings here in LOS is sometimes lacking, but probably people are just buying the wrong fittings.

[JAS21]

I would still tend to use a fair bit of tape, as for buying the paste, sorry - I brought mine with me from Oz however, I would check at an engineering supplier not HomePro etc.

Engineering supplier in Isan? Would that be Tesco or 7-11?

Anyway... thanks for all the feedback. Cheers.

You could try using silicon sealant, seems to work for most things. Actually I haven't had any problems with the blue water pipe joints. I just use tape and screw them up hard with stilsons. If you are putting a valve in a line then screw it tight into the fittings first...then glue the fitting into the pipe. This way you can ensure that the valve sits where you want it ie anywhere in 360 Degrees.

Yes some of my fittings bottom out, but a good tug with stilsons seems to sort out any problems...maybe a bit of distortion seals everything. Maybe brute force and ignorance is the order of the day.

[jackr]

In the old days I used a string

It was horse hair and pipe thread compound in my early apprentice days. The PTFE made a big difference and a lot cleaner, but have to use the right type for the right job. There are different densities... you wouldn't use the standard white tack for a 4" galv' steam pipe for instance, but it works well for PVC pipes up to an inch or so, or on brass fittings.

As Mr CDN says, go from right to left and keep it tight. Also wrap it round in the direction of thread, ie, over the top (as opposed to under) for a standard right-hand thread. So if looking at the pipe end on, it'd be clockwise.

[extexthai]

I just finished building our house and I did all the plumbing myself (okay...I supervised my invisible Thai plumbers apprentice)....there are just some things you would be a fool to leave to a Thai to get right. For instance...PVC pipe ends should be either filed at a 45 degree angle to get the 90 degree cut (edge) at an angle so when you glue into a fitting, it won't just scrape the glue to the end of the fitting. Just take off the sharp edge. As far as teflon tape goes, I found that 17 to 19 wraps on 3/4 inch fittings and pipe, holding valve or whatever fitting you have in your left hand, and wrapping clockwise with your right, so when you screw in said fitting it won't strip the teflon tape off the non tapered threads. With tapered fittings, I would only use 5 wraps, but here.....natha. I would also recommend the purchase of the brass inserted female or male thread on the PVC fittings. When you over tighten, they won't crack....well....maybe they won't....they shouldn't. But then again, TIT. PVC glue tip: go to pharmacy and purchase a package of those really large swabs that look like Q-tips for a decent applicator, as an applicator is something unheard of here when you buy the glue. And use a rag to clean the pipe ends and inside the fittings. I use a rasp to knock off the edge of cut pipe, but going around the circumferance with a razor knife would work also. And be aware that, the larger the diameter of pipe, the more prone it is to creeping back out of a glue joint....hold the sucker in place for at least 10 seconds. Stateside, the three most important things to know about plumbing is: Sh*t won't run uphill, payday is usually on Fridays and by no means what-so-ever are you to ever chew your fingernails. Remember...if you want it done right, get yourself a good reliable, invisible Thai plumbers apprentice and do it yourself. Good luck ett

[Pib]

Regarding those brass inserted PVC pipe fittings, I heard that are more prone to leak after a few years because the brass fitting/insert loosens from the PVC compared to just a plain ol' PVC threaded fitting. Any experience/comments on that? Thanks.

[powderpuff]

The Thai way seems to be to wrap it about 4 times more than we are used to. BUT often it's the only way to get the joints to seal.

I have used the grey putty in a small can before with great results. After it dries it makes a good water tight seal (with tape).

PTFE is not a sealer, Rather it is a friction reducer. The theory is that you can drive the threads furher into the joint.

If you are unlucky enough to get BSP you are in trouble because it is not tapered like USA threads are.