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Posted
On 5/28/2016 at 7:52 PM, papa al said:

Got it.

post-174911-0-38881600-1464439874_thumb.

B130/liter, not bad

Update on 2T oil.

These oils are rated JASO: FA, FB, FC, or FD

FD being highest.

Advance VSX is rated FC.

PTT has a full synthetic rated FD

B280/liter;

been using that at 50 or 60:1

The best is Amsoil Saber, 

which papa uses in USA at 100:1.

Unavailable here.

Tried to bring some over but it got confiscated in Japan.

#*&#% !!

 

  • Like 1
Posted
9 minutes ago, Damrongsak said:

Papa, how long has it been since you cleaned up those boots with a bit of saddle soap?  Might keep the leather from cracking. 

 

image.png.cfd6628ef228688a5194d898dfff8196.png

Blast then with pressure hose,

let dry

and use regular brown shoe paste wax in a similar tin.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Climber.

With a couple hundred meters of the trail

running as a stream lately,

it has been a challenge keeping her running right

as even if passing thru slowly,

water & dirt tend to splash up and plug the 

mushroom air filter and [sock] pre-filter.

Usually can sputter along until it dries then she runs okay.

Last week had to entirely remove the filter on the trail

just to make it home.

Washing them in soapy water and drying does the trick. But,

last week decided to pressure wash the entire bike to

remove accumulated grime.

Covered the filter with a plastic bag, but

guess it took on water anyway as 

it crapped out bigly on next start-up.

Pushed her to mech, who cleaned carb & installed new sparky prug.

Went ahead and got oil changed too. [0.6-liter]

B480 + B120 tip has her running as new.

Will be carrying spare air-filter in backpack henceforth.

Posted
On 11/19/2020 at 10:51 PM, papa al said:

Advance VSX is rated FC.

 

Was recomend by my engine builder as the best lubricity commonly available here.

Posted
2 hours ago, VocalNeal said:

 

Was recomend by my engine builder as the best lubricity commonly available here.

Aren't you glad for TV forum to access revised wisdom?!

 

VSX certainly comes in a cool can.

Posted
2 hours ago, VocalNeal said:

 

Was recomend by my engine builder as the best lubricity commonly available here.

He is correct.

Wiki:

JASO FA – original spec established regulating lubricity, detergency, initial torque, exhaust smoke and exhaust system blocking.

JASO FB – improved requirements over FA with regard to lubricity, detergency, exhaust smoke and exhaust system blocking.

JASO FC – lubricity and initial torque requirements same as FB, however far higher requirements over FB with regard to detergency, exhaust smoke and exhaust system blocking.

JASO FD - same as FC, except with far higher detergency requirement.

 

Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, papa al said:

Aren't you glad for TV forum to access revised wisdom?!

 

VSX certainly comes in a cool can.

 

I should point out that his recomendation was about 18 years ago.

Air cooled? I never had a problem with Yamalube R. 

 

On other forums guys discuss oil brands and preferences at length not understanding that for a 2T the correct AF ratio/exhaust temp is more important.

Edited by VocalNeal
Posted
39 minutes ago, VocalNeal said:

 

I should point out that his recomendation was about 18 years ago.

Air cooled? I never had a problem with Yamalube R. 

 

On other forums guys discuss oil brands and preferences at length not understanding that for a 2T the correct AF ratio/exhaust temp is more important.

Yes good point.

Too lean will erode the piston head.

Too rich, poor power & deposit build-up.

Lacking EGT probe/meter

air/ fuel ratio can be inferred from plug condition.

Black => rich;  light colour/eroded => lean.

Guessing the main advantage to higher detergency would be fewer deposits

in combustion chamber and exhaust system.

Kinda important, IpHA.

????

Posted

2 new things:

1.Trail riding yesterday.

Everything cool.

Left, right, up, down.

Straight & level.

Boom.!

Bike stops abruptly, papa goes flying.

<deleted>.

Pick up self; pick up bike.

Notice a stick maybe 2" x 12" stuck between skid plate and frame.

Guess front wheel kicked it up

and it jammed between ground and bike.

Never saw that before.

2. Could not find shop for new riding boots.

Found some at Lazada, 4000 baht normally 6K.

Ordered 2 days ago.

 Arrived now.

Fit okay.  Look okay.

Buckles a little awkward.

 

new boots.jpg

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)
On 12/2/2020 at 5:15 PM, papa al said:

 

 

new boots.jpg

Tried these boots out to day first time.

Boots very stiff.

Found very difficult to shift ceeber when riding to/from mountain.

Worked okay on trail bike.

Edited by papa al
Posted

Yes more bulky and far less flexible than your old pair. I have size 15 feet and always have to add some length the the shift lever.

  • Haha 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

1. Last week, Climber, the always stiff

fuel-cock lever broke off. 

I found one, on Lazada, out-of-country for B145 delivered,

but when?

Cock.jpg

 

 

Found one locally B300, but it incorporated a fuel sediment bowl,

and didn't fit in the limited space available.

So gutted the lever out of the new and refurbished the old.

Good.

2.  Pushing back the Climber,

noticed a squeak emanating from rear axel area.

A shake revealed sloppy bearings.

Took to KMK shop and mech

needed 35 min to replace with bearings from his stock.

B380.

Good.

 

New cock.png

Edited by papa al
  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

So papa messed up on the petcock swap-out.

Turns out:

OFF  ==> off

RES ==> full on,

ON ==> on just a little.

Bike was running like <deleted>.

Died on steep uphill.

so mech checked every thing spark,

carb, 

til finally discovering the ON anomaly.

 

Posted (edited)

Climber Mod #2, plan :

Would like to weld some some aluminum strap

2 pcs,   maybe ~25x3 mm  x  ~25 cm

across the rear subframe, as an arc,

to support the elderly mudguard and

maybe attach some kind of seat.

Where can similar strap be purchased, in Patty.?

????

Tried Hardware Home on 36, Rayong

but wasn't allowed in; covid.

????

Edited by papa al
Posted (edited)
On 1/23/2021 at 12:41 AM, papa al said:

New mod planned for Climber:

 

25mm risers for handlebars.

301baht, delivered // Lazada

bar riser blk.png

Actually, prolly will put these on the Lifan,

and put this type on the Climber:

 

 

motowolf bar riser.png

about 800baht  //Lazada

Edited by papa al
Posted
1 hour ago, papa al said:

Actually, prolly will put these on the Lifan,

and put this type on the Climber:

 

 

motowolf bar riser.png

about 800baht  //Lazada

Boom.

Just ordered one Lazada  //  B404.

Silver/grey.

12 minutes ago, ktm jeff said:

.Can you TIG/get alloy welded . 3mm may kink with too much weight , maybe need steel.

Good cheap TIG welder available.

Maybe go 4mm.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

1034baht so far; lever & riser.

Now where can a chunk of 4mm plate be had?

6061-T6 be nice.

15 x 25 cm.

 

Mod 4:  Bark busters.

The white guards installed have done thier job,

for sure.

The big-white-ear look

never did much for papa tho.

Plan: Remove plastic and go plain aluminum.

This PE is not easily removed.

Tried on a similar pair once with sharp utility knife.

Gave up & binned them.

May have to invoke the fire gods.

Or hire a determined Thai.

 

Before:

 

white bark busters.png

Edited by papa al
Posted (edited)

Update to mod #2.

instead of aluminum strap,

go with a plate bent in an arc.

The guys have big press.

Project beyond the existing aluminum sub-frame 

10-15 cm...??

The blotch before the dog bowl is the extent of the frame.

Rear fender Climber.png

Edited by papa al
Posted

Removing white plastic could be done with careful use of grinder/disc cutter. If  that shop has a press , they will know where to get the alloy and do a design. Bikes are often a never ending project.

Posted (edited)
On 1/27/2021 at 10:03 PM, papa al said:

Update to mod #2.

Rear fender Climber.png

Latest brainstorm:

Forgetabout welding on aluminum.

The rear subframes is of about 3/4" square stock.

Plan is to attach a 1/4" x 10" x 16" 

 PE plastic, tough stuff,

to top of the frame by screws or rivets.

Cut-out to allow easy man-handling of the bike.

 

cutting board.jpg

Retire existing mud-guard.

Edited by papa al
Posted

Papa, get that damned trials bike working and go practice.  If you ever want to beat Antoni Bou, you'd better get going.  Tony's won the indoor and outdoor championships for the last 14 years, so he's probably getting tired.  Kick his ass now while you can.

  • Haha 1
Posted
6 hours ago, Damrongsak said:

Papa, how are the risers working out?  I thought of you when I saw this.  Maybe you just need taller bars. 

 

image.png.f8cfd8b423b75e29444da037c5d09fca.png

The price of cool is sometimes high.

 

1 hour ago, Damrongsak said:

Tony's won the indoor and outdoor championships for the last 14 years, so he's probably getting tired.  Kick his ass now while you can.

Ya he a pussy.

  • Haha 2
Posted

Does he know that back in the day those handlebars were called ape hangers?

 

PS I was in Piang Luang on 27th. I thought Papa was doing the elephant trail?

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