Shutters - Input please.

[CGW]

I have three windows same as attached that I would like to put shutters on, function more important than form, need to keep out the sun and the low bass from the village a mile away that is played every Saturday!

I am not "good" working with wood, spent a lifetime working with steel and just don't feel comfortable working with wood as lack basic knowlege.

My thoughts are to get plywood cut to size and attach as shown, what sort of hinges would be best if I go this way, where to put hinges - inside or out, windows open outwards but not so important as virtually never opened (I should have just put solid panes of glass in - hindsight!)

Thanks for any input 

 

[bankruatsteve]

Forget plywood, it wouldn't last one season.  If you don't want the window as a light source, why not just remove and fill in?  If you really want a shutter, look for seasoned wood.  Or, maybe can find a UPVC door to fit?

[CharlieH]

Question: how important is aesthetics ?

[CGW]

1 minute ago, CharlieH said:

Question: how important is aesthetics ?

Not that important TBH, though obviously I don't want downright ugly!

[CGW]

7 minutes ago, bankruatsteve said:

Forget plywood, it wouldn't last one season.  If you don't want the window as a light source, why not just remove and fill in?  If you really want a shutter, look for seasoned wood.  Or, maybe can find a UPVC door to fit?

Removing not really an option as there are five identical windows. "Seasoned wood" you mean something like getting teak "doors made? doubt would be able to find UPVC door to fit as non standard, that would be a good option I never thought off.

[CharlieH]

2 minutes ago, CGW said:

Not that important TBH, though obviously I don't want downright ugly!

Only a suggestion/idea.

 

Put 4 rawl bolts 1 in to each of the four corners of the concrete frame around that window. Get a thin steel plate painted on the outside to match the house, on the reverse side glue/attach 4 in thick insulation which will sound deaden and fit into the recess of the window.When required lift onto the bolt pegs and hand tighten. When not needed remove.

[bankruatsteve]

3 minutes ago, CGW said:

"Seasoned wood" you mean something like getting teak "doors made?

There are several options other than teak, the most common being "mai daeng" (a type of red wood).  The problem is finding it in a suitable form to work with.  Maybe check with the local Al window guy and see if he can think out of the box.  Like a made to order Al door for tiny people.

[CGW]

10 minutes ago, CharlieH said:

Put 4 rawl bolts in to eacn of the four corners of the concrete frame around that window.

I like that idea - But! the "concrete" frame is hollow & not very strong

[CharlieH]

Just now, CGW said:

I like that idea - But! the "concrete" frame is hollow & not very strong

It wont hurt to try, the plate wont be that heavy and shouldnt need anything substantial. Do a test drill etc and if it looks no good easy filled and hidden 

 

You could even do an ultra light pvc version in white with the grills they sell for internal insect stops on windows.

[Crossy]

3 minutes ago, CharlieH said:

Put 4 rawl bolts in to eacn of the four corners of the concrete frame around that window. Get a thin steel plate painted on the outside to match the house, on the reverse side glue/attach 4 in thick insulation which will sound deaden and fit into the recess of the window.When required lift onto the bolt pegs and hand tighten. When not needed remove.

 

I'd be tempted to use Conwood/Shera, it's available in sheets 1,200 x 600 mm x 12mm thick, surface finished to look like wood slats. It's pretty good sound deadening on its own but with some insulation on the back you should be good to go.

 

We used it for our generator house.

 

 

[CharlieH]

Just now, Crossy said:

 

I'd be tempted to use Conwood/Shera, it's available in sheets 1,200 x 600 mm x 12mm thick, surface finished to look like wood slats. It's pretty good sound deadening on its own but with some insulation on the back you should be good to go.

 

We used it for our generator house.

 

 

Or even the 6 inch plank format they make, to avoid trying to cut a big sheet might be an idea to. I used that to clad an old door once. Nice stuff but really dusty and not easy to cut. (diamond disc)

[CGW]

6 minutes ago, CharlieH said:

Do a test drill etc and if it looks no good easy filled and hidden

Tried to do "something" with this stuff before, its just a "coving" that you buy in strips, its only about 2mm at its thickest.

[CGW]

9 minutes ago, Crossy said:

I'd be tempted to use Conwood/Shera, it's available in sheets 1,200 x 600 mm x 12mm thick, surface finished to look like wood slats.

That does sound tempting! if I can find it, can hinges be attached to conwood?

[CharlieH]

Just now, CGW said:

Tried to do "something" with this stuff before, its just a "coving" that you buy in strips, its only about 2mm at its thickest.

Ok, well, one alternative then is to make the plate fit the recess entirely, push against the insulation pad and the have retaining pegs to stop it popping out, those pegs could be inserted in the side walls on either side. You get what I mean ?

[CGW]

4 minutes ago, CharlieH said:

You get what I mean ?

Yes, that would work, would only need a couple of "pegs"

[NanLaew]

Install a Jalousie window frame but replace the glass strips with plywood ones.

[Crossy]

6 minutes ago, CGW said:

That does sound tempting! if I can find it, can hinges be attached to conwood?

 

Bolt through with a back-plate should work provided you're not continually opening/closing.

 

What are you going to attach the other side of the hinges too?

 

[CharlieH]

Just now, CGW said:

Yes, that would work, would only need a couple of "pegs"

Yes you could probably get away with one central either side as it isnt a permenant fixture so to speak.

[Crossy]

1 minute ago, NanLaew said:

Install a Jalousie window frame but replace the glass strips with plywood ones.

 

 

[CGW]

1 minute ago, CharlieH said:

Yes you could probably get away with one central either side as it isnt a permenant fixture so to speak.

Thinking about this - stick on velco stripping would work? there is some good quality stuff available on the market now.

[CGW]

3 minutes ago, Crossy said:

What are you going to attach the other side of the hinges too?

Right hand side of the window "frame"

[Crossy]

Just now, CGW said:

Right hand side of the window "frame"

 

Ah, it's just the bit on the front that's thin coving?

 

You'll need something on the left side too of course to stop it blowing around in the breeze. Depending on how enthusiastic you are you could make up a simple steel frame for it too.

 

 

[CGW]

2 minutes ago, Crossy said:

Ah, it's just the bit on the front that's thin coving?

Yes, "stuck" to the walls.

[CGW]

4 minutes ago, Crossy said:

Depending on how enthusiastic you are you could make up a simple steel frame for it too.

Be nice to keep the option of being able to fully open the window, simple bolt would suffice, or again, maybe Velcro.

[sometimewoodworker]

22 minutes ago, CGW said:

That does sound tempting! if I can find it, can hinges be attached to conwood?

No problem, there are nylon butterfly plugs that use a hole that is about 4~6mm bigger than the screws.

 

These are the beasts in a test board

Edited October 27, 2019 by sometimewoodworker

[bankruatsteve]

I think I would go with the Jalousie myself - but leaving it glass. 

 

Just to throw out another thought... Did your former life include sheet metal fab?  You could make a box using rivets, fill it with insulation, then attach flanges to screw it into <something>.

[CGW]

3 minutes ago, bankruatsteve said:

Did your former life include sheet metal fab?

I had to think about that! yes - I served part of my apprenticeship as a fabricator/welder, that was 50 years ago, not sure the memory for the skills learned back then are still available, the tools are long gone - wonder what happened to them!

[CharlieH]

4 minutes ago, CGW said:

I had to think about that! yes - I served part of my apprenticeship as a fabricator/welder, that was 50 years ago, not sure the memory for the skills learned back then are still available, the tools are long gone - wonder what happened to them!

Economy version, just buy the foil coated insulation, put 2 strips of velcro down the piece cut to fit the window, put the receiving velcro on the window frame, shove the pillow in the hole and done ! when not wanted just pull it out ! Quick easy and very cheap.I wouldnt recommend in the long term but as a quick fix, would work. 

[bankruatsteve]

3 minutes ago, CGW said:

I had to think about that! yes - I served part of my apprenticeship as a fabricator/welder, that was 50 years ago, not sure the memory for the skills learned back then are still available, the tools are long gone - wonder what happened to them!

Proper tools certainly help but you might be surprised what you can still do with sheers, a big hammer, pop rivet gun, and the edge of poured concrete.

[bankruatsteve]

4 minutes ago, CharlieH said:

Economy version, just buy the foil coated insulation, put 2 strips of velcro down the piece cut to fit the window, put the receiving velcro on the window frame, shove the pillow in the hole and done ! when not wanted just pull it out ! Quick easy and very cheap.I wouldnt recommend in the long term but as a quick fix, would work. 

One would think foil would be OK in weather but, from experience, NOT - esp. if it gets the sun.