Moving to Thai farm Issaan

[Knocker33]

Don't forget to book in for your lobotomy before you go

[473geo]

2 minutes ago, Knocker33 said:

Don't forget to book in for your lobotomy before you go

Not required for many whose only experience of cultivation is growing mould in the bathroom, they don't last long in Issan ????

[todlad]

Everyone has a right to their opinion, of course. There is a lot of negativity here, though.

 

I live in Isaan and have done for about 8 years now. We built a house in a village and own and run our own Quail egg and chicken farm. Our house builder built a very good house but, of course, his staff were enthusiastic amateurs so some of the finishing touches were not always the best.

 

There have been those incomprehensible, exceptionally loud music 20 hours a day events. The in laws live next door and can be pains in the @rse one day and saviours the next.

 

The family help out with the farm and they are not work shy but once a week or so, I tell the missus that anywhere else and I would sack them after another of their nonsense ideas. 

 

Generally, although I only nominally help with the farm, I do get involved and get frustrated when they always know best. At times, I just get up and do things to make a point and prove them wrong ... and to make sure things are done properly.

 

The mother in law's biggest no no came when she tried to save money by cutting down on feedstock for the chickens. Loads of the birds keeled over and died over a two to three week period!!

 

Still, our Quail eggs do well and we sell all we can produce. The start of the pandemic was a shock but the missus and her mother pulled off some good marketing effort.

 

As with others, I didn't come here to live with expats so i know just a few and that's fine by me. 

 

In summary, it is possible to live well here but be ready for blips. If you don't mind some frustrations and mucking in, crack on.

 

[473geo]

If life is perfect where you are don't move........at least not to Isaan unless you can be flexible, adapt, and accept Isaan will throw up a few challenges.

 

 

[khunPer]

On 11/5/2020 at 9:44 AM, maulibels85 said:

I've been to Thailand 4 times, 4 weeks at a time. 2 weeks this coming April.

4 weeks are not long time compared to living full time in Land of Smiles.

 

Before you head into building a house up Isaan – that can be very hot in summer, and utterly cold (for some) in winter, little depending of where – try to live a full year in Thailand, and try to check the potential location up Isaan during different times of the year, i.e. hot season, rainy season and cold season.

 

The best advise I can give you is to check a number of locations in Thailand, i.e. move around for a while, rent something for a period, which could be a month or more, and check it different periods of the year, before you decide where to "invest" in a home.

 

Building a house in a wrong location, you might not after all wish to stay in, can be extremely difficult to sell; and as a house for many of us is a major investment, it might also be difficult just to walk away from it.

 

I have friends that have build houses on wife's family land up Isaan, later realizing that Isaan life was not right for whatever personal reason – including too boring, or no pals to chat with, or no nearby pizza restaurants, or... – finally ends up with an unsaleable house, they didn't want to live in, even that it had costed them a couple of million baht to build.

 

You might however find that Isaan and village life / farmer life is just the right choice for you, but do check around first, then you are also much more confident in having made the right choice.

 

There are numerous health insurance options to check when living here permanently – for shorter periods, maybe up to half a year, a travel insurance might work – and in general it should be cheaper than US, if excluding cover for USA, or just cover for Thailand, and using travel insurance when going abroad.

 

Savings and stable income, not matter if small – we all have different lifestyles – are important factors when living in Thailand. A small pension and reasonable savings are all right, and $400k could give you an ongoing lifelong payout around 300k baht (or more) a year, i.e. another 25k baht a month, and little more if you decide to use the capital + dividends/interest over a calculated lifespan. Combined with a retirement pension – even a small one – you can have an all right life. I would say that the minimum limit would be circa 40k baht a month – same as level for annual extension of stay based on marriage – preferable around 65k baht a month, which is the level required for extension of stay based on retirement; but depending of life-style it's easy to spend a lot more.

 

Make a bank deposit in a fixed account of 400k or 800k, depending of which extension of stay you choose, and have a "rainy day account" with some easy accessable cash money for whatever unforeseen emergency that might arise; the amount is individual depending of health, life-style, and savings.

 

Investing in a home in Thailand pays off in long terms, compared to what you would pay in rent for a similar place in same area. In average about 15 years rent pays for the investment – including a calculated interest loss and some level of maintenance – in some cases little shorter time, and some cases some more years. So when you know that this place is right for long term living, investing in a home makes sense.

 

Furthermore, don't burn your bridges; i.e. keep enough funds in your home country, so you always can return, and not be totally empty handed.

 

My own experience is based on regular Thailand-visits over a few years, followed by living in longer periods of combined half a year per year, travelling to numerous places – including Isaan – different times of the year; and after some years buying land, and some years later build a house on the land for the money I got with me from selling my property in my home country. I've lived in that house for little more than 10 years now, and I don't regret my choice of neither location, nor house. But underway I learned that there are some places I would not have been equally happy to settle, as where I choose stay so far.

 

Wish you good luck with your plans...????

[Migrosmarket]

My advice is take all this forum advice.

 

Don't think we are all being kill joys. You asked so listen.

 

It is nothing like you seem to think it will be. 

 

Keep a base in your home country.

 

Do not expect to make any money from business. Why do you think Isaan is the poorest area of Thailand? You HAVE to have an independent income.

 

Do not spend money building a house. Rent until you have lived here for 2 years and are sure it's a rest of life commitment. Better to rent forever.

 

Be aware - any money spent is lost. Guaranteed. You cannot own anything other than a vehicle.

 

You will not have anyone to talk to.

 

You will not have any social life.

 

You will be the subject of gossip/begging/lending requests.

 

You will always be dependent on your wife if you don't speak and write Thai. That is hard to deal with and she will be influenced/pressured by family to get you to spend when you should not.....because....

 

.......You will be expected to support all the family.... ALL. Some family will even give up work and return to the village to be supported by you...but you won't know about this.

 

You will turn to drink through boredom.

 

In my opinion your best plan is to spend, say, 4 months at home and 8 months in Thailand (depends on weather maybe?) On a retirement extension (not an OA due to extra requirements), fully legal (so 800k baht in bank), annual vacation insurance (can get single trip insurance for up to 1 year) so repatriation covered if required.

 

Basically.... always be in a position to go home quickly and without too much financial loss if something terrible happens.

 

 

[T Lee]

On 11/5/2020 at 12:44 AM, maulibels85 said:

I guess I've (and wife - Thai Issan) have decided to move to Thai Isaan and farm and build a house in a handful of years. She has land there given by her father. We met 5 years ago, Married 2.5 years ago, living in USA. I've been to Thailand 4 times, 4 weeks at a time. 2 weeks this coming April.

Looking forward to the farming life of fast-growing stuff, our own chickens/ducks. Selling fish to local shops. Just slap a house down, small pool, live in a peaceful, quiet area, live a different life.

Suspect my career and job will go away next year, wife will keep working for a few years, then make the jump and at least move until I'm 65 then move back for awhile, maybe.

The heat bother me at times, but her lack of ability to garden in the northern climates are an issue. We have looked into SW USA.

The the other issue is the cost of healthcare in USA. Anyhoo, we plan to give it a shot. I'll retire early, she'll work, we'll keep the house for a few years, maybe come back for 6 months, fix it up and sell it.

Thailand has its tradeoffs, as does any SE country or rural area. Looking for a new life and change of pace and different scenery.

I've had many careers, worked in many jobs and many companies/corporations. This would be just a different challenge.

Yes, I will be over 50 (there already).

Ideas? Thought?

Yes, I've saved 401k/IRA, nothing too grand, small pension, house we could cash out prett good. Back up cash plan, if needed.

Wife is a bit younger than I and a great woman and the prize of my life. I can be alone 99% of my time. I can keep busy alone 99% of the time (excluding wife's time).

 

[IsaanAussie]

23 minutes ago, todlad said:

Everyone has a right to their opinion, of course. There is a lot of negativity here, though.

 

I live in Isaan and have done for about 8 years now. We built a house in a village and own and run our own Quail egg and chicken farm. Our house builder built a very good house but, of course, his staff were enthusiastic amateurs so some of the finishing touches were not always the best.

 

There have been those incomprehensible, exceptionally loud music 20 hours a day events. The in laws live next door and can be pains in the @rse one day and saviours the next.

 

The family help out with the farm and they are not work shy but once a week or so, I tell the missus that anywhere else and I would sack them after another of their nonsense ideas. 

 

Generally, although I only nominally help with the farm, I do get involved and get frustrated when they always know best. At times, I just get up and do things to make a point and prove them wrong ... and to make sure things are done properly.

 

The mother in law's biggest no no came when she tried to save money by cutting down on feedstock for the chickens. Loads of the birds keeled over and died over a two to three week period!!

 

Still, our Quail eggs do well and we sell all we can produce. The start of the pandemic was a shock but the missus and her mother pulled off some good marketing effort.

 

As with others, I didn't come here to live with expats so i know just a few and that's fine by me. 

 

In summary, it is possible to live well here but be ready for blips. If you don't mind some frustrations and mucking in, crack on.

 

My situation is different in detail but I agree with the thoughts.

I have been in Thailand 20 years and perhaps have mellowed. I do think that we go through stages of believes dependant on the time we are here. Many of the comments here align with that. Perhaps I could offer a few thoughts.

Firstly, yes we are expected to help financially with family members problems. Just as it is expected of every other member of the family. If you want to be part of it then play the role as others do. The answer does not have to be yes all the time. Thai people love locks and are careful with sharing financial information with anyone, they have limits on how much they will chip in. But they also value family above finance, a cultural difference.

Secondly, my wife and I have been together a long time and we have an open and honest relationship. It has always been that way between us. If you don't have that to start with, forget dreams of building a future or investing in a house or a living in Isaan. It is not about you and what you want. Isaan villages are small extended family groups. Its a club, your choices are in or out!

[craigieboy1973]

Good luck .... expect the opposite and just make sure you have an out plan.......good luck other then that 

[Dexxter]

DO NOT sell your house in the USA. Rent it out for income.

Do not use your USA assets to fund building a house in Thailand.

That house will be in your wife's name. If (or more likely when) your marriage breaks up she will own the house and you will get nothing. Spend nothing in Thailand that you are not prepared to lose.

 

I could never live in rural Thailand. It would drive me insane. I have enough boredom having a two week holiday in rural Australia where I know the language and customs, and where I am not an alien to the locals. I spent ONE DAY in a tiny village in Kalasin a couple of years ago visiting my wife's extended family. Even after a single day, I was bored out of my mind. All I did was sleep, drink beer watching motor bikes go past in the street, went for a walk around the dry rice fields, and met a few of the locals I could not talk with, just smile and feel dumb. BORING.

 

Edited November 8, 2020 by Dexxter

[IsaanAussie]

Just now, craigieboy1973 said:

expect the opposite and just make sure you have an out plan.

 

Just now, Dexxter said:

If (or more likely when) your marriage breaks up she will own the house and you will get nothing. Spend nothing in Thailand that you are not prepared to lose.

Sorry but to me, these thoughts are just so negative guys. Planning for failure? Why did you come here, what are you looking for?

 

[nickmondo]

i think you need a check up from the neck up mate!

clearly you have got yourself excited with the prospect of this lovely life.

in reality, it aint going to be like that.

rent somewhere rural first, and see if you like the country life.

[kingofthemountain]

3 hours ago, khunPer said:

try to live a full year in Thailand, and try to check the potential location up Isaan during different times of the year, i.e. hot season, rainy season and cold season.

And don't forget the burning season !!

(Wich can be all year long, it depends on your thai neighbors and their habits)

[IsaanAussie]

Just now, nickmondo said:

i think you need a check up from the neck up mate!

clearly you have got yourself excited with the prospect of this lovely life.

in reality, it aint going to be like that.

rent somewhere rural first, and see if you like the country life.

Please excuse me if you weren't addressing your comments at me. But if you were, I challenge your Hua Hin based comments on living in Isaan. I love life here in Isaan, and have done for over 12 years. I have no illusions, I have made many mistakes, invested a lot and lost because I thought I "knew better", "could make a difference". All those new chum errors that we "guests" here fall for. 

I regret nothing and continue to learn.

 

 

[Kalasin Jo]

I'm surprised no one has mentioned drugs and gambling. Endemic in my neck of the Issaan woods...thats figuaritively speaking so far as woods....of course there aren't any..all cleared long ago for rice and now for fish and prawn farms. It does sound an  idyllic life but Surely Not sums it up nicely. To avoid terminal boredom unless you are a real solitary guy that doesn't miss chats with with other farangs it's absolutely essential to be able to get away  regularly...which is quite easy to do now either risking your life on the Thai highways which in themselves aren't bad but pretty slow, it's all the crazy drivers, or with the flights to/ from the Issaan regional airports to somewhere like Bangkok if you like big city life or Pattaya, Rayong,  Hua Hin or Phuket if you like the ocean. Don't forget also the annual fun run in with the cheeky chappies at Immigration if you go for the cheaper but more complicated "marriage" visa extension. And if you are planning working on the farm you can't on a retirement visa extension and need a work permit on a "marriage" extension. Good luck!

[IsaanAussie]

If anyone is thinking of moving here to an Isaan farming village, do not worry about being the only farang and being isolated. There are lots of us to pick some new friends from. Just check out the many Isaan based facebook pages. 

Many of these guys have been here a long time and are valuable sources of advice. Most are only too open to sharing

[Elkski]

I have experienced the monks early morning banter on loud speakers.   Quite disturbing to me.   Infringement of my rights.    Roosters and dogs.   I've seen the drinking and old people with red  mouths.  I've heard about the young Yaba heads.   I've seen the burning of fields and trash.  I've seen the littered villages.  It would be hard to not find trash in each .1 m squared. I've heard about the gossip.   No one has said the rural life has benefits  of  what Thailand is famous for?   

 

If you  don't live in your USA house 3 of the last 5 years  you would have to pay capital gains. Not exactly how the feds  would know about this.  

I would want to live  away from family.  In a compound with 3 m walls and good dogs.  If I lived in Thailand one reason would be for the tasty snacks.  Wife must accept this if  the top man can have 20 i can have 2-3

[uffe123]

Don't worry about health care, with Biden our Chinese agent, health care will be free, and no cops, they will all be retrained as social workers. 

[todlad]

Many people have said living in Isaan is boring: life everywhere can be boring.

 

There are no hills where i live so walking is not so challenging but open your eyes as you walk. Look beyond the rice fields.

 

Within an hour of our village there are thousands of things to visit, see and do.

 

Since i have been unable to leave Thailand since February, I am happy to spend more time in the kitchen as a cook and bottle washer. We have a kitchen garden at home and i have just started one at the farm.

 

I have a hobby, too! My work and my hobby coincide in spreadsheets. I spend some time, 5 days a week, keeping up to date, creating spreadsheet models, answering questions on www.quora.com or adding to my Excel blog.

 

Then there are the kids ...

Edited November 8, 2020 by todlad

[todlad]

9 hours ago, IsaanAussie said:

My situation is different in detail but I agree with the thoughts.

I have been in Thailand 20 years and perhaps have mellowed. I do think that we go through stages of believes dependant on the time we are here. Many of the comments here align with that. Perhaps I could offer a few thoughts.

Firstly, yes we are expected to help financially with family members problems. Just as it is expected of every other member of the family. If you want to be part of it then play the role as others do. The answer does not have to be yes all the time. Thai people love locks and are careful with sharing financial information with anyone, they have limits on how much they will chip in. But they also value family above finance, a cultural difference.

Secondly, my wife and I have been together a long time and we have an open and honest relationship. It has always been that way between us. If you don't have that to start with, forget dreams of building a future or investing in a house or a living in Isaan. It is not about you and what you want. Isaan villages are small extended family groups. Its a club, your choices are in or out!

Money: you are right that you will become part of the money go round. I have only been bitten once in this respect and that made me much less willing to stay on the list of helpers. I am very choosy now. It happens that sometimes i cannot help ... they take it personally!!

[VocalNeal]

On 11/6/2020 at 7:16 PM, OOTAI said:

There is some very good advice posted on this thread if the OP wants to sift it out from all the "noise".

 

Do not live on the family plot. Live remote from the family unless your wife is the one destined to take care of the parents. This is important so that her siblings cannot “come and visit”. If she wants to see them she can go and visit them. Transport in rural Thailand is easy for locals.

The family needs to be far enough away that they cannot come on a motorcycle in one day. How far is the nearest airport?

 

Someone mentioned 50. Now some guys are old at 50 or at least they think old. If you are not one of those then live in/near town and not in the booneys. 100Kms round trip for a loaf of bread sounds fun but it gets old very quickly. I read stories of frustration when guys have to drive multiple times 160kms one way just to visit immigration. I drive 15kms! I can walk 1.5kms to Tesco.

 

Your wife has a plot. Buying a new plot is not that expensive. Just because she has one doesn’t mean you cannot live elsewhere.

 

If you are a sociable type you will need a “farang’ meeting place not to distant. So pick a town that has a pub/bar for a chat. Some people are happy with their own company or so they say until taken out of their comfort zone. I love the guy who has a fellow farang living 300m away that he hasn't seen for months. But I do know a couple of guys live that

 

Building a house then you will need to be near a decent building supply merchant/furniture store so you can browse for what you want. Pool? Had one and looked after one before? Well I suppose that might cure the boredom bit!

[ChakaKhan]

On 11/7/2020 at 5:06 PM, olfu said:

Yes, its cheaper in US if you do it right. First of all be single so you control money, second move to warm area to remind about LOS, third save money and wait for economy to crash, then build your own house for retirement or profit. Dont cook--supermarkets sells cooked food.

And be what you are--nobody.

On target for all listed-but suppose it all comes down to location in US.....boonies or big city....   signed, Nobody.

Edited November 8, 2020 by ChakaKhan

[Grumpy John]

"Just slap a house down "  555  If your employing the village builder (in name only) it will be slapped down for sure.

 

I regret moving from Pattaya to the Rs end of Thailand, I regret having got married, I regret spending as much money as I have on things that are of no use to me...some days.   But that being said it's not all bad.   Most days I do various things, at a leisurely pace and have a siesta at lunchtime.  I've become accustomed to the Thai "Near enough is good enough" attitude so I do as much as I can myself.  I've overcome the need to blow the horn and hurl abuse at the idiots on motorbikes realising you can't fix stupid.  I cook a lot more, make bacon, bread, bake beans, cinnamon rolls...basically anything that I like not available (or available but poor quality) in the shops.    Having a pressure cooker and an oven helps.

 

This years been harder as we are not travelling.  I think the key to farang living in the village is the freedom to take a holiday anytime you want.  I'd welcome even a week in Chang Mai right now!

 

[hotchilli]

If your missus cannot farm then don't waste your time, you can't fiddle around on your own doing stuff like fast growing veg and rearing fish, there will be little or no profit.

Build a house if you wish, relax and enjoy the scenery, rent the land to a farmer who can do stuff.

[Tagged]

10 minutes ago, hotchilli said:

If your missus cannot farm then don't waste your time, you can't fiddle around on your own doing stuff like fast growing veg and rearing fish, there will be little or no profit.

Build a house if you wish, relax and enjoy the scenery, rent the land to a farmer who can do stuff.

Yes, and no, there is nomorofit in thai farming unless you gonbig, and you are the farmer who understand how it should be done, and also understand how it works in thailand. That means a lot of work and deducation and also language scills. 
 

It is possible, bit it takes investment, deducation, luck with your gf, her family and of course the first seasons to get going without to much loss. 
 

most people make a hobbie and headache for them self if ambition is bigger thand interest and deducation as knownledge.

[carlyai]

14 hours ago, ChipButty said:

Dont build a swimming pool in the village you will get no peace 

Don't know why, no one swims here.  Not a problem at all.

Over the 3 odd years I've had the pool here we have had about 6 locals in the pool. 3 we taught to swim, one school teacher friend, and the young boy and his mum from next door.

Only the young boy, my wife and I swim regularly.

[4MyEgo]

15 hours ago, BritManToo said:

Why would anyone want to go back?

It's even worse there, and most of the countries want to lock you up at home for the foreseeable future.

 

I suppose for those who have been thrown off their horse, the ones with health problems, the ones that have been taken for a ride, the ones who have spent more than they can afford, built a house, car, purchased a bar,  and left zero in a backup account, pensions reduced due to their currencies taking a hit, you know the ones that have run out of money, the unfortunate ones, but are stuck here, between a rock and a hard place.

 

As the government's all around the world take on the socialistic approach and lock us all up, including businesses but for a few, the foreseeable future looks bleak no matter where you are, that said Isaan is perfect for me, no one in sight and when lockdown raises its ugly head again, it won't bother me, stocked up to the hilt and lots of space here to move around. 

 

15 hours ago, BritManToo said:

I want a city, bars, restaurants, swimming pools, Tesco, Makro, 7-11, BigC all within easy reach.

 

Cities and bars are within an hours drive and I can visit as often as I like if we are not in lockdown, school holidays for the touristy places like Hua Hin, Ao Nang, Pattaya and Phuket as usual, outside of that I need to be away from the hussle and bussle, perfect mix for me now, but if I had to change anything, it would be nice to have some girly bars a little closer, but then again, that could be bad, for them ????

 

[ChipButty]

Now there's a story "Gambling" Thai's will gamble on 2 fly's going up the wall when they run up gambling debts who do they turn to, to pay it off? Farang.

I had a friend buy a piece of land up in Buriram obviously in his wifes name with the intention of building a small resort, Not such a bad idea so he thought, Before he had laid a brick she had run up a million baht of gambling debt on the land, so now he has a choice does he pay off the million baht debt and carry on? He paid it and carried on building little did he know the builder was her ex husband, not so bad you think, job is almost done the builder now wants another million baht to finish the job so he give the wife the million baht to give to the builder, the builder disappears doesn't turn up to finish the job, No the wife blew the money gambling and to this day he never knew what happened ,as he tried to sue the builder never going to happen in Buriram but on the Thai grapevine, thats what she did , Amazing Thailand

[Scott Tracy]

Consider carefully, you would be a 'guest' here. Subject to the vagaries of the Immigration laws, and the local Immigration Officers interpretation thereof. Isaan is not the best place in the world to retire to. Especially around April. Farming is a prohibited activity for foriegners. It's not as if you could say to the IO, it's the garden....You cannot sell anything, nor could you be associated in any way with selling anything. There's an immigration hotline, and disgruntled Thai people do use it.

Planting a house is an expensive activity, especially if you don't like hot weather. You either build a house to last, or you continually build a new one every few years. Remember, you own nothing, and you have to pay for health care in Thailand too. 

 

The wife owns 5 rai of land, currently down to rice. Cost me loads of cash to get someone to till the land, buy the seedlings, plant them, buy the pesticide and herbicide and plant food. Worry about the lack of rains, too much rain, too much wind. Pay for harvesting, find room for drying the harvested rice. Find someone to buy the rice,  as it's rice that only Thai locals will eat.only

I like living here. With the wife, but could live elsewhere if she wanted to. Northern Italy sounds nice. 

[ChipButty]

1 hour ago, carlyai said:

Don't know why, no one swims here.  Not a problem at all.

Over the 3 odd years I've had the pool here we have had about 6 locals in the pool. 3 we taught to swim, one school teacher friend, and the young boy and his mum from next door.

Only the young boy, my wife and I swim regularly.

I taught a girl to swim also, I couldn't get rid of her, I taught to swim naked that worked out alright