Conwood deck paint

[mr_lob]

Hello everyone

 

We have used this beger paint to repaint the decking around the pool and after only 2 months, it started peeling up and looking scruffy as.

Does anyone have an idea as to why? We made sure to have 2-3 days of no rain and good sun before putting it on.

Many thanks in advance for answers!

Lob

[Sophon]

Why did you choose a wood paint for Conwood, which is essentially concrete?

[Crossy]

2 minutes ago, Sophon said:

Why did you choose a wood paint for Conwood, which is essentially concrete?

 

My thoughts too.

 

The correct stuff is lasting well on our deck, it's definitely not cheap mind.

 

18 months and as good as new apart from the bird poop.

 

[bankruatsteve]

Also, that appears to be water based paint. I think oil based would serve you better. 

[mr_lob]

38 minutes ago, Sophon said:

Why did you choose a wood paint for Conwood, which is essentially concrete?

This was what the supposed "expert" at the paint shop recommended

[mr_lob]

39 minutes ago, Crossy said:

 

My thoughts too.

 

The correct stuff is lasting well on our deck, it's definitely not cheap mind.

 

18 months and as good as new apart from the bird poop.

 

Thanks Crossy which brand was that please?

[Crossy]

2 minutes ago, mr_lob said:

Thanks Crossy which brand was that please?

 

We actually used the Conwood Colour.

https://conwood.co.th/en/product/detail/1540191428756/conwood-color-paint

Primer, Colour and Clearcoat.

 

Available at Thai Watsadu and other places that sell Conwood. 

[Crossy]

9 minutes ago, mr_lob said:

This was what the supposed "expert" at the paint shop recommended

 

"Ex" is a has-been or an unknown and a "spurt" is a drip under pressure!

[Crossy]

Your biggest headache is going to be getting the existing finish off ????

 

Madam has a wire brush on a broom handle which might be the tool of choice.

[mr_lob]

5 minutes ago, Crossy said:

Your biggest headache is going to be getting the existing finish off ????

 

Madam has a wire brush on a broom handle which might be the tool of choice.

Thanks mate i really appreciate your help

[Crossy]

10 minutes ago, mr_lob said:

Thanks mate i really appreciate your help

 The beast in question actually came from Tesco ???? 

[Crossy]

16 minutes ago, Crossy said:

 The beast in question actually came from Tesco ???? 

 

[sometimewoodworker]

4 hours ago, bankruatsteve said:

Also, that appears to be water based paint. I think oil based would serve you better. 

There are good water based paints, we have some that have lasted 6+ years. 

[Outbackoz]

Finished refurbishing the deck around the pool about 3 months ago. after partial collapse in some areas and de lamination of the cement based imitation wood deck material. tried a couple of 'test' areas with various coatings until I came up with something satisfactory. Deck was gurneyed and scrubbed with major imperfections filled with acrylic based filler.  Applied 1 coat of roofing paint which was quite viscous but filled imperfections and nail sets from nail gun.  Sealed well but very soft.

Then applied two coats of cement sheet paint, which whilst thin has set to a hard surface. Second coat of cement sheet paint was applied with a brush and because the roofing paint was slightly red and the cement sheet paint was a darker brown ended up with a finish that is more towards a natural timber colour. All coatings were water based and applied before sunup. I will get the names of the coatings used and post tomorrow.  So far so good no peeling or abrasion issues.

Yet to see how it stands up over time.  

 

     

[bankruatsteve]

9 hours ago, sometimewoodworker said:

There are good water based paints, we have some that have lasted 6+ years. 

For places that get traffic?  My experience with premium latex on decking and steel plant holders is that they just don't hold up under wear.

[KarenBravo]

I used a paint that is specially for fibre cement called SYNOTEX and it is made by Berger.

No complaints.

 

There is no problem using water based paints and stain for external use. Both oil and water are just a medium for the actual paint. Both water and the oil will evaporate leaving the paint sticking to the surface of whatever you are painting.

Oil based paint is slowly being phased out due to toxic fumes. It also requires 24 hours of drying before you can apply another coat (over the insects that got stuck on the first coat). The modern water based paints and stains require only half an hour to an hour drying before you can add another coat.

[sometimewoodworker]

5 hours ago, bankruatsteve said:

For places that get traffic?  My experience with premium latex on decking and steel plant holders is that they just don't hold up under wear.

Yes, but probably a polyurethane based paint. 

[mr_lob]

22 hours ago, Crossy said:

Your biggest headache is going to be getting the existing finish off ????

 

Madam has a wire brush on a broom handle which might be the tool of choice.

We will use a chemical paint remover, as its quite a large area...these are rental villas and the surface will get quite a bit of wear. I have got the primer and paint in my basket by Thai Watsadu don't seem to stock the number 3, the finishing. I reckon 2 coats of paint will probably do the trick?

[Crossy]

You do need the No3 clearcoat for the final protection, ours came from Thai Watsadu so maybe just out of stock.

 

Yeah, two coats of colour, we certainly needed two. One primer and one clearcoat.

 

[mr_lob]

Now i will bother you with another issue...we have standing water in many areas, which become really slippery. There is a drainage gap under the conwood, but the water is not getting through. Am i right in thinking with just need to rout the gaps out...or would multiple drainage holes be better?

[sometimewoodworker]

50 minutes ago, mr_lob said:

Now i will bother you with another issue...we have standing water in many areas, which become really slippery. There is a drainage gap under the conwood, but the water is not getting through. Am i right in thinking with just need to rout the gaps out...or would multiple drainage holes be better?

The deck has been incorrectly installed and that will be part of the reason for your finish failure. There should be a gap of a couple of mm between boards. 
 

The fix done correctly is going to take a good amount of work. First is to run a saw kerf down every joint, then a V bit to reform the profile that you have cut off. I would expect to kill a blade or two on the saw and potentially a few router bits also the concrete dust may well do a number on the saw and router. 
 

Apart from needing scrubbing down this is how it should be installed 

[mr_lob]

We used the conwood color as recommended but 3 days later and a bit of rain and half of it is peeling up! Any ideas on the cause please guys?