Drilling for Bathroom Corner Shelving

[cms22]

Please help. I'm rubbish at DIY but have purchased some tools including a drill.

So how do I go about drilling holes for this bathroom corner shelving unit (picture attached)? The holes in the unit are small and a long way from the wall itself so how on earth do I correctly mark the spot for drilling? 

I've used a tooth pick with some ink to try to mark the spot for drilling but it's all over the place. Please help!

 

Thank you. C

Edited May 8, 2017 by cms22
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[Andrew Dwyer]

Use a piece of paper or thin card to draw round the outside and mark the hole position then use this as a template .

[VocalNeal]

Yep. Use CAD. Cardboard Aided Design 

[sipi]

What are you drilling into?

You may need a tungsten bit and tape to stop the drill from wandering.

 

[cms22]

Hello. Thank you so much for the info.

Yes, I'm drilling into tiles. Will use masking tape.

I think I understand the template idea. But could you kindly elaborate?

What do you mean "draw round the outside and mark the hole position then use this as a template". Draw round what exactly?

 

Sorry for my ignorance, but need all the assistance I can get!

Cheers. C

[leyali]

Put your Shelving to the wall where you want hang it up, mark around with a pencil. Turn your Shelving to the back and measuring the hole out, mark the wall where the hole must be.
If you make hole in to tiles, don't use the impact drill, till you thru the tiles, then go on with the impact drill. (Hammer)
Make sure there is no water or electricity pipe in the wall !!!


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[bankruatsteve]

You should re-check the package for instructions which are usually provided.  Some have a template included.  If you bought a hammer drill, don't use hammer going through the tile.

[Andrew Dwyer]

Hello. Thank you so much for the info.

Yes, I'm drilling into tiles. Will use masking tape.

I think I understand the template idea. But could you kindly elaborate?

What do you mean "draw round the outside and mark the hole position then use this as a template". Draw round what exactly?

 

Sorry for my ignorance, but need all the assistance I can get!

Cheers. C

Find a piece of paper or thin card bigger than the shelving.

Put card on floor and put shelving on top, draw round it, turn shelving over and place card on top with the outline matching the outside of shelving.

If the card is thin enough you should be able to see through it to mark the position of holes in relation to outside , this is a template or a simple line drawing showing position of holes in relation to outside of shelving.

You can cut this down to size but shouldn't really be necessary.

Place on the wall where you want your shelving to go and mark thru paper/card with a sharpie.

Use a sharpie/magic marker/felt pen as you are marking on a tiled surface.

 

Use a nail or screw to break the glaze on the tile by hitting the marked places, a swift tap with a hammer on the screw will break the glaze, wear some glasses !!

Masking tape on tiles will not always stop the drill from dancing around on the tile surface, better to break the glaze.

 

I don't recommend measuring the hole spacing as to the shape of the shelving makes it more difficult and you don't seem to have much practical experience, no disrespect [emoji4]

[johng]

Instead of hitting a nail in to break the glaze. I would use a 3mm masonary drill bit masking tape and drill without hammer action a pilot hole through the tile, a lot of tiles here are fixed with the "dob" or " blob" method and can easily crack if hit with a nail.

[bankruatsteve]

I've drilled 100's of holes through tile using a center punch to make a little chip first (no tape) and then using my smallest concrete drill bit to make initial hole.  Then I use whatever size needed.  100% successful.

[Andrew Dwyer]

I've drilled 100's of holes through tile using a center punch to make a little chip first (no tape) and then using my smallest concrete drill bit to make initial hole.  Then I use whatever size needed.  100% successful.

Yeah, I use a centre punch or even a tap ( 5 or 6mm ) if it has a point on it works great, but figured the op would have neither of those.
I then use a 4mm concrete drill bit and after open to required size.

Although, it is a valid point to go easy making a small chip ( break the glaze ) as you never know what's holding the tile to the wall !

[cms22]

Thank you so much with these responses. I think the easiest method is to purchase from Homepro a 3mm or 4mm drill bit and make a small initial hole using this. The template idea is great but I'm sure I'll make a balls up of it. The former idea seems a lot easier and I might make a success of it and show my wife that actually I do have some DIY skills! Cheers, everyone. Owe you a beer. C

Edited May 8, 2017 by cms22

[sipi]

I'm curious how you can drill mounting holes at 90 degrees to each other then tighten it up.

Are you sure it doesn't clip apart?

A photo of the back showing the holes might be interesting. 

[Crossy]

1 hour ago, sipi said:

Are you sure it doesn't clip apart?

 

... or have some mounting hardware that you screw to the wall first?

 

Even the American Standard bog-roll holder we bought had a drilling template and instructions.

 

[cms22]

No. Absolutely nothing in the box save screws and plugs. It says on the box "easy to install"!


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[Crossy]

3 minutes ago, cms22 said:

It says on the box "easy to install"!

 

So does stuff from Ikea https://perfectassembly.com/top-7-ikeas-most-hardest-pieces-to-assemble/

 

Probably time to post a couple of photos of the offending beastie.

 

[Crossy]

Try this:-

1. Using your toothpick method mark, drill and plug one of the upper holes.
2. Fix the beast using the one screw, not too tight, you just want to hold it.
3. Then you should be able to spot through the opposite, bottom hole using a smaller drill (or the toothpick if you don't have a smaller drill).
4. Remove the first screw and drill/plug the second hole.
5. Fix the unit using the two holes you now have.
6. Check it's level and in the right place and spot through the remaining holes.
7. Drill and plug the remaining holes.
8. Fix it all to the wall for the last time.

 

[BEVUP]

Drilling into Thai walls

All of the above good But

Let's hope your corner is square - Seen many rooms & have done the same as you many times but had to shut my eyes & reopen them to see if the walls got the hint to straighten up ( have seen walls an inch out of square )

Then once you get through the wall & think it's only a matter of having to put the plastic plug in it doesn't grip due to hitting a hole from what they use to build it with or the crap tiling job that was done ( this is where it gets more interesting )

Good Luck

[Crossy]

@BEVUP don't scare the poor chap, he's just getting started on the DIY adventure

 

[BEVUP]

6 minutes ago, Crossy said:

@BEVUP don't scare the poor chap, he's just getting started on the DIY adventure

 

Yes sorry about that but as he's progressing through the first steps i hope it may trigger further questions he may need to ask 

As i also have a hard time with certain things myself 

[Daffy D]

All good advice about not using the hammer drill option till through the tile.

 

A simple way to start drilling without cracking the glaze is to start with the drill in reverse till you are though the glaze before reversing the drill to do the actual drilling.

 

[bankruatsteve]

34 minutes ago, Daffy D said:

All good advice about not using the hammer drill option till through the tile.

 

A simple way to start drilling without cracking the glaze is to start with the drill in reverse till you are though the glaze before reversing the drill to do the actual drilling.

 

You must have one hell of a grip.  For most folks, reverse or forward the drill bit will slip without something to grab - like a chip out or tape.

[tonboy]

Starting with DIY in the bathroom ? No good idea. save yourself the problems that can arise, and spent a couple of hundres baht on a professional installer from HomePro. 
Not only you have to consider the tile, which easely can break due to the way they are glued to the wall, the tools you will be using are DIY stuff also I guess. Drilling into a glazed tile means using a diamant-cutting drill, nothing else. They are expensive, but this is the only way you can guarantee nothing will break or damaged.
Did you consider the fact that there could be electrical wiring in the wall, or the pipe that transports the water ? Did you check with a electronic device ? If you are not sure about this, do not drill.

Better buy some polyurethane adhesive and glue it to the wall.
Its waterproof and works well on tiles and plastic.

http://www.christinedemerchant.com/adhesive-glue-polyurethane.html

[Daffy D]

11 minutes ago, bankruatsteve said:

You must have one hell of a grip.  For most folks, reverse or forward the drill bit will slip without something to grab - like a chip out or tape.

I didn't say not to use tape to stop the drill from slipping.

 

The reverse drilling is one alternative to other methods of starting without cracking the glaze.

 

You have your tape on the tile with the pencil mark for the hole, drill in hand reverse drill till through the glaze, shift to forward drill and away you go - Easy Peazy

  

[TheFiend]

When I was fixing stuff to the walls in our bathrooms I bought a set of 3 Tile drills which are shaped like an arrow... great for drilling though tiles, then swapped over to a masonry drill once I was though to the brick.I purchased them in the UK and took them over with me.

[longball53098]

I guess I will suggest if the OP is new at this game to get the needed tools and then find a tiled wall somewhere that he can make a few practice holes first or buy a couple cheap tiles and drill those first and actually see what it takes to break the glaze and penetrate the tile.

[cms22]

On 2017-5-9 at 7:47 AM, Crossy said:

Try this:-

1. Using your toothpick method mark, drill and plug one of the upper holes.
2. Fix the beast using the one screw, not too tight, you just want to hold it.
3. Then you should be able to spot through the opposite, bottom hole using a smaller drill (or the toothpick if you don't have a smaller drill).
4. Remove the first screw and drill/plug the second hole.
5. Fix the unit using the two holes you now have.
6. Check it's level and in the right place and spot through the remaining holes.
7. Drill and plug the remaining holes.
8. Fix it all to the wall for the last time.

 

Great idea. Will try this. Thank you!

[sipi]

"The holes are small and a long way from the wall"...

I still can't stop thinking that some mounting hardware is missing from the box. Just doesn't seem right for load bearing shelving.

[Andrew Dwyer]

Try this:-

1. Using your toothpick method mark, drill and plug one of the upper holes.
2. Fix the beast using the one screw, not too tight, you just want to hold it.
3. Then you should be able to spot through the opposite, bottom hole using a smaller drill (or the toothpick if you don't have a smaller drill).
4. Remove the first screw and drill/plug the second hole.
5. Fix the unit using the two holes you now have.
6. Check it's level and in the right place and spot through the remaining holes.
7. Drill and plug the remaining holes.
8. Fix it all to the wall for the last time.

 

I took another look at the photo of shelving and noticed for the first time that there are 4 holes going all the way through, I hadn't noticed this before ( blame failing eyesight ) and that's why I recommended the template method. I imagined that the holes were only present on the backside, I.e. keyhole slots.
After cleaning my glasses and seeing the real situation Crossy's advice is the only way to go.

Sorry about the misinformation and good luck !

[sipi]

17 minutes ago, Andrew Dwyer said:

I took another look at the photo of shelving and noticed for the first time that there are 4 holes going all the way through, I hadn't noticed this before ( blame failing eyesight ) and that's why I recommended the template method. I imagined that the holes were only present on the backside, I.e. keyhole slots.
After cleaning my glasses and seeing the real situation Crossy's advice is the only way to go.

Sorry about the misinformation and good luck !

Oops me too.

Those holes are tiny.

Sure they aren't caps?