should I put plaster board or concrete?

[bbabythai]

I have a wall that I want to improve. We took out an old window. Current structure shown in the pic is old concrete. 

 

Im thinking that I want a really nice looking job after a primer coat and 2 coats of dulux go on that wall. If I use plasterboard (gyprock) would one see the lines from concrete to plasterboard after painting is finished. Or should I ask someone to use brick/ cement and do cement render.... can I assume this is the best option? Or would both options achieve a good result?

thanks

[moe666]

Just use sheet rock mud put on and smooth before you paint. Sooth out and then paint. Primer first then paint.

[Crossy]

What's the finish like on the existing wall?

 

Our rendered walls are nowhere near as smooth as the gyprock ceilings and it would be immediately obvious if we filled a space like that.

 

 

[Yellowtail]

I think brick & render would be best, but you can use either and still get a great finish. That said,  I would use cement board rather than gyp.

 

Whatever you use, just skim-coat the entire wall prior to painting and you'll get a uniform finish. 

 

I assume you have decent scaffolding, yes? 

[Pogust]

Don't use cement board. It contains ground wood that expands and contracts with air humidity. You will get a tiny crack at the joint. Plasterboard don't do this. Best is usually the same as the rest of the wall.

 

[weelegs]

I enjoyed reading the responses to this topic, not because I know or care much about house renovation, but because it was a pleasure to read something from people who know what they are talking about. Opinions on the subject differ, but they all appear to be based on actual knowledge and experience.  Refreshingly different from confused comments on epidemiology of viral diseases, Thai culture or political rants.

 

[bluejets]

In Aus, it is common to run vertical thin steel battons on the concrete prior to fixing gyprock sheeting, even if using waterproof(green) gyprock as used in laundry and bathroom areas.

Reason being the gyprock will draw moisture directly from the concrete finish. Maybe small amount but it will affect the finish after a period of time.

Sheets are run with a horizontal joint and if jointing and finishing coats of plaster are done correctly, the joint is hardly, if ever, visible.

Especially true if a flat finish paint is used.

[spornb]

Just done a wall 4m wide by 3m, done it with cement screed, cost less than bht 2,000, less than a days work, but a lot of mess, to do, was quoted with plaster board bht 9,500

 

If not money conscious plaster board better

[Crossy]

51 minutes ago, weelegs said:

I enjoyed reading the responses to this topic, not because I know or care much about house renovation, but because it was a pleasure to read something from people who know what they are talking about. Opinions on the subject differ, but they all appear to be based on actual knowledge and experience.  Refreshingly different from confused comments on epidemiology of viral diseases, Thai culture or political rants.

 

You should visit us more often, it can get lonely in here.

 

But rest assured, things can get a little heated on occasion. Handbags at dawn type of heated that is ????

 

[4MyEgo]

20 hours ago, bbabythai said:

If I use plasterboard (gyprock) would one see the lines from concrete to plasterboard after painting is finished.

Why not just gyprock the whole wall, you can board the window from inside and then gyprock the whole wall on the inside as well. 

 

I mean it wouldn't be that hard if you used some scaffolding and then applied some battens and then fixed the gyprock sheets to the battens, once on, then apply the tape and your mix and away you goes....naturally paint when sanding has finished.

 

The other alternative if it's not for privacy reasons, or to keep an A/C on in a room, you could go for a modern look and put in some slates giving it the louver effect, just thinking outside the square, and all you would need to do is paint them when installed, wouldn't have to touch the wall, unless you want to give it a fresh lick of paint.

 

 

Genius ????

 

Edited April 30, 2020 by 4MyEgo

[TPI]

Termites eat the cardboard backing off the gyprock so the only thing keeping it together is the plastic facing! I've been there done that for the entire walls and ceilings in my house....total disaster!

[globalspark]

You would hope you have termites in control because yes they do eat the paper in the plaster board.

[Tropposurfer]

As an ex-builder I'd go with clay bricks and render. You'll see the surface differences if you plaster unless you render over the whole wall (new and old sections which kinds defeats the purpose of using light large area plasterboard to get the job done quickly - bricks and render will take longer).

There is a risk you may not achieve a long lasting complete seal-join between the two surfaces past a few months (in my ex-builder opinion this is a possibility) due to high humidity here and the materials behaving differently. 

If you plaster and render the wall the render will behave differently as time passes on the plasterboard and brick, this may cause problems down the track with appearance.

If you have the money then brick the space in (if the thickness of the existing wall is greater than a clay brick then maybe cinder/Besa blocks might be the go) and render the whole wall again to create a good and continuous finish.

The use of brick is far more insulating than plasterboard too.

Like another poster sent you you could consider a wood panel/slat/louvre arrangement and make the space breathable and a feature. You could also, if it would suit the house style and the space, use a coloured or clear glass panel (more costly but very cool).

[KIWILEE]

I have built two buildings here, one on a concrete slab and the other up on piles. Both are timber framed (imported timber treated so termites won't touch it) construction with gibrok lining on walls and ceiling. I have had problems with the termites eating the cardboard on the framing side of the wall and also eating the plaster such that you just brush against the wall and it crumbles. This is only on the concrete slab. In 6 years there has been no sign of any problems with the building on piles.

[chilly07]

Use same material as rest of wall and cut out and tooth and bond to avoid differential expansion. Then skim whole wall before sealing and painting

[Vigilante]

4 hours ago, Pogust said:

Don't use cement board. It contains ground wood that expands and contracts with air humidity. You will get a tiny crack at the joint. Plasterboard don't do this. Best is usually the same as the rest of the wall.

 

Ground wood?

Are you confusing asbestos for ground wood?

I would avoid either cement of gypsum board

Thick plywood maybe but anything is better than asbestos-containing drywalls (imo anyway)

 

[sometimewoodworker]

1 minute ago, Vigilante said:

Ground wood?

Are you confusing asbestos for ground wood?

I would avoid either cement of gypsum board

Thick plywood maybe but anything is better than asbestos-containing drywalls (imo anyway)

 

Sherawood etc contain wood dust/fibre AFIK none of the cement based boards use asbestos?

[Vigilante]

17 minutes ago, sometimewoodworker said:

Sherawood etc contain wood dust/fibre AFIK none of the cement based boards use asbestos?

There's no asbestos ban here..they use it everywhere

[khunPer]

23 hours ago, bbabythai said:

If I use plasterboard (gyprock) would one see the lines from concrete to plasterboard after painting is finished.

Plasterbord might be (very) visible. However, you could use fiber cement plate(s) with little distance inside the outer wall line, and plaster the fiber cement board, that is actually possible to do; I've had it done with a pair of posts, and it worked out well, has so far lasted for 10 years.

 

Otherwise brick up and plaster the wall, or make the former opening in a different look, like wood by using fiber planks.

[sometimewoodworker]

1 hour ago, Vigilante said:

There's no asbestos ban here..they use it everywhere

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[KhaoYai]

4 hours ago, Tropposurfer said:

As an ex-builder I'd go with clay bricks and render. You'll see the surface differences if you plaster unless you render over the whole wall

Totally agree - you'll see it forever if you don't skim the whole wall. Skim over the repair, let it dry, then rough up the existing wall and skim the whole area.  It would also be better if you brush the wall with a light mix of PVA and water before its skimmed - that helps adhesion.

Edited April 30, 2020 by KhaoYai

[rumak]

i only read page one...  did not see this mentioned :   new concrete joining onto old concrete

will always get a crack at the joints after time .    "always "  as far as i know  ????

 

i did not google yet....  maybe there is a way to prevent it.   

[sirineou]

All good advise

If you don't mind the mess, brick, render and paint.

But if you want a quick and easy.

 Metal frame the hole flush with the existing wall and then  drywall the whole thing corner to corner. On the concrete portion of the wall you can glue the driwall on with either campount or liquid nails and a few concrete nails or screws to hold it in place while the compound or glue  dried.  

I like drywall. it substantially improves the acoustics. 

You know your property best, so you are best equipped to asses the termite situation, but if termites was a problem for most properties then all of us with drywall drop ceilings would be in trouble. if you keep up with periodical treatments and maintain termite control systems , as you should do anyway, you should be ok.  

[Macthehat]

Use unibond primer or same and scrimp cloth or similar roll before skimming and the joints wont be visible . Skim the whole wall as previously suggested . 

[KhaoYai]

1 hour ago, rumak said:

i did not google yet....  maybe there is a way to prevent it. 

Yes, hence my advice to skim the repair first and let it dry.