Building a house without the Thai style concrete frame

[sometimewoodworker]

3 minutes ago, sandyf said:

I would disagree with that.

I have cavity wall construction which gives the walls quite effective insulation. During the hot season we run the AC in the bedroom overnight and during the day the floor and internal walls act like a storage heater in reverse and keep the internal temperature well below the external ambient until the following evening.

The need for insulation is dependent on how comfortable you are with the local ambient.

Well phrased.

 

During the hotter parts of the year the temperature inside our house is virtually always lower than ambient (as much as 10C) along with the humidity.

 

during the few cold days or weeks it is warmer inside due to the heat producing bodies (us) and we seldom use the AC in heating mode (maybe twice this year)

[MrJ2U]

25 minutes ago, sandyf said:

No posts in the middle of my house, main room is 5m x 7m.

The only evidence of posts is in one corner of one bedroom.

I wish we had built in closets.

 

With my wife and daughter we need huge walk-in closets.

 

Next house.

[Gottfrid]

On 3/2/2022 at 8:29 AM, cliveuk said:

I can't find anywhere that sells bigger than the 75mm thick blocks

Didn´t you just post you live close to Korat? Guess it´s time to start looking.

[sandyf]

11 minutes ago, Yellowtail said:

Any new build I undertook today I would double-roof using solar panels to shade the main roof.

About the best suggestion on this thread so far,  something I keep thinking about.

Not only does the panels shade the tiles from direct sunlight, the gap between the panels and tiles would create a venturi effect adding to the effectiveness.

In a high temperature environment, "moving air" is your best friend.

[stupidfarang]

On 3/2/2022 at 3:24 PM, sandyf said:

Your last comment puzzles me a bit, is your builder Thai?

I built my house with cavity wall about 12 years ago and where I live you have to have their version of planning permission and we wouldn't have got that without the concrete framework as the pillars have to sit on concrete pads to  prevent subsidence.

With normal Thai building you do not really need wall ties as the window frames and door frames bridge the cavity and hold the walls together.

My house is a 2 bed ensuite bungalow, about 100 sq mtrs. I sourced a fired brick for the external wall and used Q blocks internally. The pillars are incorporated into the external walls and internally the only evidence is in the corner of two rooms.

I would recommend the cavity wall construction, it certainly helps to keep the interior cooler during the hot weather. One thing to watch out for, during construction the labourers will see the cavity as a convenient rubbish bin.

Good luck

How about a photo of the end product? Interesting to see

[stupidfarang]

23 hours ago, KhunLA said:

If the house is built properly, good materials, and exterior walls SHADED by the roof, you'll be quite comfy, even on the hottest days.  ACs will run efficiently, keeping the overpriced electric here to a minimal monthly expense.

 

Educated, experienced Thais build houses the way they do, because it works, practical, and inexpensive.

 

Use insulated block, if house rectangular, built E to W lengthwise, have roof overhang, as much as possible, no windows, or as few as possible on S side.   Shade your exterior walls, quite easy with carport on one side, patio on the other.

 

Use insulated rolled steel roof, as all around better than anything else.  Use ceiling insulation -37/38, and when you enter the house it will feel like you are entering a house with AC already on, during those hot days.  When brutually hot & humid out, use your dehumidifier mode when not in the house.  Makes a world of difference.

 

On my 3rd build now, and made all the mistakes on the 1st build, corrected with roof extensions & insulation, along with add on rooms with double block walls, as insulated block wasn't available, or widely known.  2nd build done right from the get go.

 

Remember earth's axis, and decide what season better for shading.  2nd house had mostly all glass front.  Cool season sun came in, which was fine, hot season house mostly shaded.  Really didn't matter, as ACs ran almost 24/7, when needed, and house stayed cool.  Sun exposure through tinted windows (90+ protection from heat & UV) was only at sunrise anyway, and a couple hours at that.  Hardly noticed temp wise, but blinding if not awake yet ????

 

Here's snapshot of 2nd house, rectantangle, shaded concrete roof, patios on E & W side, with carport on W side.  Glass wall facing N, w/shaded pool, that actually got too chilly to use early on, since shaded so well.  Back / S wall had storage area, completely shading that wall.

 

Block the sun, and insulate, and you'll save money every month on electric / AC use.

 

Don't do the silly 'clear the lot' as many do & build.  Plot your house out, as we had plenty of natural shading also, especially SW corner.

 

 

 

Do you know of any websites that cover building in Thailand? I use to read CoolThai house but the links on their site have stopped and it looks like not much input these days.

[KhunLA]

8 minutes ago, stupidfarang said:

Do you know of any websites that cover building in Thailand? I use to read CoolThai house but the links on their site have stopped and it looks like not much input these days.

No.  It's all common sense.  Shade, insulate, water flows downhill, don't zap yourself & ground along w/ NO wood.

 

You plan on building something yourself ?   If not, just check out your builders previous work, as a good sign what to expect.

Edited March 9, 2022 by KhunLA

[sandyf]

20 minutes ago, stupidfarang said:

How about a photo of the end product? Interesting to see

About half way down page one

[sandyf]

10 minutes ago, stupidfarang said:

Do you know of any websites that cover building in Thailand? I use to read CoolThai house but the links on their site have stopped and it looks like not much input these days.

I bought a book, think it was called "Buying land and building a house in Thailand".  I don't have it any more,  gave it to someone who was thinking about it.

A lot depends on where you live, where I am building regulations are quite strict, took us 3 attempts to get the plans approved. We have no mains drainage and the problem was about waste water disposal.

[Yellowtail]

41 minutes ago, MrJ2U said:

I wish we had built in closets.

 

With my wife and daughter we need huge walk-in closets.

 

Next house.

If you have a room big enough, just go to SCG and have them put in a smart-board partition wall-to-wall with sliding doors. 60cm from the existing wall is all you need. Probably less than B50K if you do the paint. 

 

Put it on the wall you want to sound-proof as well. Two birds with one stone...

[sometimewoodworker]

4 hours ago, stupidfarang said:

Do you know of any websites that cover building in Thailand? I use to read CoolThai house but the links on their site have stopped and it looks like not much input these days.

The CTH site had a few problems late last year and early this year and isn’t promoting itself much, however I’m unsure what you mean by links have stopped, if there is a problem pos on CTH and it will probably get fixed quickly, of that I am sure having Intimate knowledge.

[cliveuk]

On 3/2/2022 at 3:24 PM, sandyf said:

Your last comment puzzles me a bit, is your builder Thai?

I built my house with cavity wall about 12 years ago and where I live you have to have their version of planning permission and we wouldn't have got that without the concrete framework as the pillars have to sit on concrete pads to  prevent subsidence.

With normal Thai building you do not really need wall ties as the window frames and door frames bridge the cavity and hold the walls together.

My house is a 2 bed ensuite bungalow, about 100 sq mtrs. I sourced a fired brick for the external wall and used Q blocks internally. The pillars are incorporated into the external walls and internally the only evidence is in the corner of two rooms.

I would recommend the cavity wall construction, it certainly helps to keep the interior cooler during the hot weather. One thing to watch out for, during construction the labourers will see the cavity as a convenient rubbish bin.

Good luck

Interesting, thanks is for the pics.

 

[cliveuk]

5 hours ago, sandyf said:

I would disagree with that.

I have cavity wall construction which gives the walls quite effective insulation. During the hot season we run the AC in the bedroom overnight and during the day the floor and internal walls act like a storage heater in reverse and keep the internal temperature well below the external ambient until the following evening.

The need for insulation is dependent on how comfortable you are with the local ambient.

Interesting. Do you also have the obligitory concreate frame?

[sometimewoodworker]

1 hour ago, cliveuk said:

Interesting. Do you also have the obligitory concreate frame?

Did you look at the earlier posts?

[stupidfarang]

20 hours ago, sometimewoodworker said:

The CTH site had a few problems late last year and early this year and isn’t promoting itself much, however I’m unsure what you mean by links have stopped, if there is a problem pos on CTH and it will probably get fixed quickly, of that I am sure having Intimate knowledge.

The site said i was inacive, so have now just registered again. It is a great site with excellent information, sad to see that it is not used so much these days 

[Encid]

On 3/2/2022 at 8:29 AM, cliveuk said:

I can't find anywhere that sells bigger than the 75mm thick blocks say 100mm for a single skin.

 

Link

 

 

 

Link

 

 

 

 

 

Edited March 10, 2022 by Encid

[thwo]

On 3/9/2022 at 8:35 AM, Yellowtail said:

Any new build I undertook today I would double-roof using solar panels to shade the main roof.

 

Whether posts are required in the middle of a room has much more to do with the rafters than it does with the posts/columns.  

 

I would even put a second roof as they do for tiny houses.

 

 

[sandyf]

On 3/9/2022 at 1:41 PM, cliveuk said:

Interesting. Do you also have the obligitory concreate frame?

There is a reason for the pillars, they sit on concrete pads, required for planning permission. The photo shows the pad and column detail from the house plans.

[bluejets]

On 3/2/2022 at 8:01 PM, sometimewoodworker said:

Our build was similar to yours, though we used double AAC skins 

Cavity style seems a good move but I'm not so sure about how the cavity was concrete filled and especially encasing what appears to be junction boxes.

Any joints in there could be susceptible to failure and being completely encased no way to fix in the future.

As  well as having  bungs missing for the concrete fill to enter the boxes.

[itsari]

On 3/2/2022 at 2:06 PM, cliveuk said:

Thanks for your reply. I have someone lined up to do the work who I can trust 100 percent if you get my drift! In the UK such blocks are used as load bearing no problem and in any case it will only be single story. Again in the UK no special glue is used just ordinary mortor. The cavity ties are to give the two walls extra strength when connected together. My dilemma is the thin blocks seem just a bit too thin for a single skin and my builder doesn't want to use the concrete frame!

The Thai method of building is much stronger and for good reason as they do have a earth quake problem .

Build as the locals do and if you want to improve on there methods use light metal framing between the concrete  columns as the heat is soon gone after the sun is down and has no affect on the stability of the house .

[KhunLA]

53 minutes ago, itsari said:

The Thai method of building is much stronger and for good reason as they do have a earth quake problem .

Very rare (N), and minor damage reported when it does happen.  Suspect poor construction of those buildings affected.

 

1 reason I moved to Thailand, lack of earthquakes & typhoons.

Edited March 15, 2022 by KhunLA

[bluejets]

Just going by your photo March 2......No need to be an A.hole about it........

 

Edited March 15, 2022 by Rimmer
quoted reply of removed removed

[Rimmer]

 flame has been removed also the quote

[Yellowtail]

12 minutes ago, bluejets said:

Just going by your photo March 2......No need to be an A.hole about it........

 

I doubt they're filling the cavity, likely just pouring a window-sill. 

[Encid]

14 minutes ago, bluejets said:

Just going by your photo March 2......No need to be an A.hole about it........

 

That looks to me to be pouring a concrete lintel, typically under and over a window frame and over doors.

[Encid]

Q-CON do make lintels in various sizes now... perhaps they weren't available when sometimewoodworker built his house?

 

[Don Chance]

16 minutes ago, bluejets said:

Just going by your photo March 2......No need to be an A.hole about it........

 

He's mad because we keep on point out the problems with his house.   Full of mold for sure.  If you build a cavity with insulated walls, how will it breath? The air in between will turn moldy. Good for the insulation seller not for the home.

 

Slab foundation will be damp causing moisture problems. Insulation in the ceiling is a big no no.

Imagine a refrigerator when you turn it off and don't open the door for a while.

 

I remember a home inspector in Florida who inspected a chain of hotels. All full of mold, why because of the wall paper! The wall paper acted like a vapor barrier along with AC. Moisture was created behind the wall paper and into the drywall. They had to be all gutted.

 

Any house will create a  lot of moisture that needs to be vented.

 

 

[Yellowtail]

12 minutes ago, Encid said:

That looks to me to be pouring a concrete lintel, typically under and over a window frame and over doors.

I think it's a sill, not a lintel.

 

But looking at the bracing, it looks like they poured the lintel as well. 

[sometimewoodworker]

1 hour ago, Yellowtail said:

I think it's a sill, not a lintel.

 

But looking at the bracing, it looks like they poured the lintel as well. 

If you look at @sandyf post on March 2nd you can see the detail of the window frame construction, and yes the complete window openings are poured, sills, uprights and lintels. Also yes we did consider precast lintels but they don’t work on cavity walls, whereas the cast on site ones are of any width.

 

There is one poster who would like to revise the laws of physics to support theories that are just totally opposite to fact, along with building straw men to slay, not really unexpected however going by previous posts. Another who’s understanding of construction would make a good baker.

Edited March 15, 2022 by sometimewoodworker

[sometimewoodworker]

1 hour ago, Encid said:

Q-CON do make lintels in various sizes now... perhaps they weren't available when sometimewoodworker built his house?

 

They were, though had to be specially ordered, good for single skin, carp (deliberately misspelled) for cavity, no cheaper than cast on site, yes I did enquire, unavailable in some sizes that would have been required. I haven’t checked but doubt that 3.5 metre ones are available. Also the builder was on a fixed price contract, so you can be absolutely sure that had there been any advantage in cost, time, or accuracy they would have been used.

Edited March 15, 2022 by sometimewoodworker