I'd like to replace my bathroom's cheap tiled countertop with solid wood but is this flirting with probable disaster given Thailand's heat / humidity?

 

IKEA have some pre-made countertops in the right size e.g. https://www.ikea.com/th/th/p/karlby-worktop-oak-veneer-50335190/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=surfaces&utm_campaign=shopping_feed&utm_content=free_google_shopping_clicks_Kitchen

 

If it's doable, any recommendations re best type of wood / sealant etc.?

 

TIA 

 

Yea ... wood in a bathroom, not the best idea.

Mai Sak also called Sak Tong.

Better known as Thai Teak. With it's natural oily texture it's good for wet places. A layer of clear epoxy will bring out the attractive figuring and protect the surface for years to come.

If it is teak you should be okay.......anything else......grim.

1 hour ago, easeback said:

is this flirting with probable disaster given Thailand's heat / humidity?

I'd be more worried about the termites eating it.

15 minutes ago, BritManToo said:

I'd be more worried about the termites eating it.

Yeah. Many timbers are delicious for termites if they can find them. Bathrooms are not such an easy target and teak is not delicious.

You might like to read this https://www.patioproductions.com/blog/gardens/of-termites-and-teak/

Just now, Muhendis said:

Yeah. Many timbers are delicious for termites if they can find them. Bathrooms are not such an easy target and teak is not delicious.

You might like to read this https://www.patioproductions.com/blog/gardens/of-termites-and-teak/

Termites even ate my 'plastic' wood effect flooring, the bathroom plasterboard ceiling, and the bathroom door frame.

  

4 hours ago, easeback said:

I'd like to replace my bathroom's cheap tiled countertop with solid wood but is this flirting with probable disaster given Thailand's heat / humidity?

 

IKEA have some pre-made countertops in the right size e.g. https://www.ikea.com/th/th/p/karlby-worktop-oak-veneer-50335190/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=surfaces&utm_campaign=shopping_feed&utm_content=free_google_shopping_clicks_Kitchen

 

If it's doable, any recommendations re best type of wood / sealant etc.?

 

TIA 

 

Despite all the naysayers, there is nothing wrong with using wood in the bathroom counter top, as long as it is wood (not wood chips) and it is done right.

 

unfortunately the IKEA top doesn’t qualify as it’s not wood but veneered chipboard, good quality chipboard, but still chipboard and the problem with virtually all man made substrates is that they deform if water gets to them.

 

The above is rubber wood coated with Chaindrite then coloured with shellac to give the gold tone then finished with several coats of RB water based interior polyurethane.

 

I can’t be sure that your situation has the correct setup, as in sufficient ventilation and away from by spray from the shower, but if it has then there is no problem with something like mine. 

4 hours ago, KhunLA said:

Yea ... wood in a bathroom, not the best idea.

It depends on where, how it’s installed and the treatment it has. Do all 3 correctly and it’s no problem 

There is one wood (timber) available here, don't know it's name - but it's as hard and tough as nails, dark in colour, reddish coIour going on dark brown, I have a couple of kitchen cutting boards made from it - would be ideal, ask a few Thai people what's available. 

26 minutes ago, Artisi said:

There is one wood (timber) available here, don't know it's name - but it's as hard and tough as nails, dark in colour, reddish coIour going on dark brown, I have a couple of kitchen cutting boards made from it - would be ideal, ask a few Thai people what's available. 

MAI DAENG also called Red wood or Burma ironwood from the Xylia Xylocarpa family.

 

 

3 hours ago, sometimewoodworker said:

It depends on where, how it’s installed and the treatment it has. Do all 3 correctly and it’s no problem 

Agree, and I could do it, no prob.  But since OP is asking ... nuff said.

Keeping the finished wood dry is a important in any situation. Wet rot, which is actually a fungus for those who didn't know, will destroy timber very quickly. Also, with chipboard, ants will quickly move in where it gets wet to say nothing of the shape changing as it expands. Teak is particularly good in these situations. Other timbers, no matter how hard/dense will succumb eventually if not protected.

For me, the beauty of wood in the home is beyond doubt. Also by making furniture and fittings with wood, the carbon captured when it was a tree, is locked in and helping the environment.

Teak, RubberWood or bamboo ...properly treated will last a lifetime

Thanks for all the helpful advice. Will conduct further research & maybe give it a try.

 

Worst case scenario is I'm down one countertop and revert to tiles / granite etc.

On 3/10/2022 at 7:15 AM, tonray said:

Teak, RubberWood or bamboo ...properly treated will last a lifetime

Actually, the rubberwood and bamboo is not really suitable for anywhere moisten. Beside that a rubberwood desk needs to be multiple  glued, laminated from number of thin staves (usually 5 - 7 mm thin) to get a massive counter.

 

Against all odds, my bathroom counters are from no one of the a. m. wood , solid one and staved one, still looking good after 15 years with not much care...    

^Correction:

What I wrote about multiple gluing was meant for bamboo, when it is made from the thickness of bamboo wall. Such things are made only in China where they have abundance of bamboo of better species than in Thailand. However, the multiple gluing does not make the product wonderfully healthy and nature environmental as it is often promoted.

 

Actually also rubberwood has to be multiple glued, even if from staves available more thicker than at bamboo.  When exposed to moisture and also sunshine, the rubber residua will appear out from the pores, making the surface look dirty somehow.   

5 hours ago, Saanim said:

Actually, the rubberwood and bamboo is not really suitable for anywhere moisten.

Why? 

 

5 hours ago, Saanim said:

laminated from number of thin staves (usually 5 - 7 mm thin) to get a massive counter.

Incorrect. The thickness is variable usually between 10mm and 25mm. The width of rubber wood panels easily available is up to 1200mm, the length is variable from about 2400, individual sections are finger jointed and around 45mm ~ 80mm wide

 

You can use timber, but unless you’re fastidious in your installation and maintenance you’ll have problems down the track.

There are more resilient products available. 

18 hours ago, sometimewoodworker said:

Why? 

 

Incorrect. The thickness is variable usually between 10mm and 25mm. The width of rubber wood panels easily available is up to 1200mm, the length is variable from about 2400, individual sections are finger jointed and around 45mm ~ 80mm wide

 

Actually, the rubberwood is hardly "easily available" in larger dimensions, surely not longer than 1 m (exceptionally 1,2 m) as the felled logs are not really straight, quite different  when harvesting pine, spruce, oak, etc. 

 

The width available from one log is max 4" (exceptionally 5"), and the remaining  1", 2", 3" have to be exploited (sold) either. After the pressure impregnation against fungi and insect and a fast drying the 1 m long pieces will result in a no straight form. 

 

×

 

That's why for longer and wider dimensions finger joints are to be applied.  The finger joints are needed also for exploiting the many short cutoffs remaining after cutting the requested length from the 1 m plank (for kitchenware production, cutting boards, etc.) .  

 

And for a good counter usually rather a thicker desk is needed, ca. 2" - 3" (with rubberwood not easily available).  Such counters are made often by oak, finger joints.  Or face-glued panels, the working surface are edges of the planks. 

   

 

I would go with granite or marble , many colours , cut to size ,

not too expensive , and guaranteed to outlast any wood and

you.

regards Worgeordie

 

53 minutes ago, Saanim said:

Actually, the rubberwood is hardly "easily available" in larger dimensions, surely not longer than 1 m (exceptionally 1,2 m) as the felled logs are not really straight, quite different  when harvesting pine, spruce, oak, etc. 

Do please read and understand before making assumptions. 
 

Rubber wood planks are very easily available in places like DoHome they exceed 2 metres.

note as I already said.

Quote

individual sections are finger jointed and around 45mm ~ 80mm wide

A plank constructed of individual sections that are finger jointed is still a plank, and I never defined the lengths of individual pieces.

 

 

Unjointed rubber wood is not commonly available anywhere, apart from possibly wood street.

 

1200 x 2400 sheets in thicknesses from about 10mm to 25mm are available, various grades are also available, thicknesses from 15mm to 20mm are available everywhere.

 

53 minutes ago, Saanim said:

And for a good counter usually rather a thicker desk is needed, ca. 2" - 3" (with rubberwood not easily available).

it is actually very easy to make thicker pieces and makes the construction really easy.