Building a carport

[unheard]

7 minutes ago, Encid said:

BlueScope have a very good PU foam backed roof sheeting and I think it's available in different thicknesses too...

 

Not only BlueScope-franchised stores.

Lots of roll forming shops in Thailand have the PU application machines.

They will apply that insulation to any coated roofing metal they have in stock, including Bluescope.

And yes, PU insulation is normally offered in different thicknesses, starting with 25mm.

[unheard]

Just now, Yellowtail said:

Are you trying to argue it is hotter standing in the shade than in the sun? There will be no walls, and nothing parked underneath but water tanks.

I'm not here to argue with you.

Let's just move on...

[Yellowtail]

4 minutes ago, Encid said:

BlueScope have a very good PU foam backed roof sheeting and I think it's available in different thicknesses too...

 

Do you have a picture of it?

[Yellowtail]

1 minute ago, unheard said:

I'm not here to argue with you.

Let's just move on...

That's what I thought, thanks! 

[Encid]

Just now, unheard said:

On the contrary, it makes a lot of sense.

On a sunny day a metal roof without insulation will be re-radiating lots of infrared energy, in-directly heating up everything parked underneath.

Also the PU insulation will act as sound insulation from the rain when those big thunderstorms roll by. 

[unheard]

5 minutes ago, Encid said:

Also the PU insulation will act as sound insulation from the rain when those big thunderstorms roll by. 

Exactly, the thicker the better.

Even the 25mm option still works wonders.

[Seeall]

5 hours ago, Yellowtail said:

Just do it yourself, that way you know it will last and you do not have to let some shady contractor rip you off. 

 

You've already done the engineering and the material take-off, just have the material delivered and do it. You can usually get workers to help you for about 200 a day. 

cant get below 400/day in phuket...

[EVENKEEL]

1 hour ago, nchuckle said:

The only thing I’d say about roofing with that incorporated insulation from our experience is that the heat eventually breaks down the glue and the insulation falls messily off. Also birds pick at any breakdown to make nests. Subsequently we just used good non insulated roofing and specified WHITE to ensure heat/sun reflection.

Been 3 + yrs. still like new, the rain storms aren't noticed much because of noise. I never researched anything, but get your point.

[sometimewoodworker]

46 minutes ago, Yellowtail said:

Do you have a picture of it?

Yes

 

the above is a product used with colorbond 

 

Under a different company

 

[Rotweiler]

1 hour ago, nchuckle said:

The only thing I’d say about roofing with that incorporated insulation from our experience is that the heat eventually breaks down the glue and the insulation falls messily off. Also birds pick at any breakdown to make nests. Subsequently we just used good non insulated roofing and specified WHITE to ensure heat/sun reflection.

We used insulated rooking tin and have regretted it ever since.  It doesn't take long (about 3 years) to start scaling off - first in small patches, then it large pieces.   We are now faced with either replacing all the panels, or peeling off the insulation.  And these were high quality ones from the national chain. 

 

The white suggestion is actually not so good an idea.  They all turn colour soon anyway (dirt, rain, etc), so any lighter colour would be fine.

[EVENKEEL]

3 minutes ago, Rotweiler said:

We used insulated rooking tin and have regretted it ever since.  It doesn't take long (about 3 years) to start scaling off - first in small patches, then it large pieces.   We are now faced with either replacing all the panels, or peeling off the insulation.  And these were high quality ones from the national chain. 

 

The white suggestion is actually not so good an idea.  They all turn colour soon anyway (dirt, rain, etc), so any lighter colour would be fine.

Our insulated panels now 3+ yrs are still like new, Open to elements.

 

[sanook 1]

4 hours ago, EVENKEEL said:

I had a 7 Mx7 M carport built, using 4x4" steel posts with footing, only 2 posts as otherside attached to house. Labor was 25,000thb and they primed all steel and total cost was 47,000thb. I bought all materials. No cement.

 

I just recently got a labor estimate for a 3x7M shade, 350 thb/sq M. No cement, again I'm using 4x4" steel posts with a footing.

 

Mine has a 7 M span both ways, the less posts you have the easier parking you'll have, 15 M span you can get by with 3 on each side. The good roofing with the inside insulation cost 150thb/M 3 yrs ago.

How long time ago was this? 

[sanook 1]

Just now, sanook 1 said:

How long time ago was this? 

Just saw ur post above, 3+ years? 

[Crossy]

Page 2 and nobody has linked to this ???? 

 

Link to construction details in the first post.

 

 

 

[Tropposurfer]

You've had lots of feedback about the upper structure so I'll not comment little on tat except the final remark I make..

As an ex-builder I would suggest that 100 mm thick floor slab is not thick enough - that is a ridiculous thickness to carry the load of cars.

This is especially relevant considering the lightweight reo-mesh that Thai's tend to use as standard in slabs which is completely inadequate., add to that Thai's have little to no understanding how to install expansion and controlled stress-crack joints.

For cars make the slab 150mm thick no less and use 7mm. dia. reinforcing mesh with proper concrete chairs throughout when pouring.

Simply going around and pulling the reo-mesh up by hand as the concrete is poured is useless as the mesh will settle down into the bottom of the pour and compromise the structural integrity of the slab.

Unless you want to spend years and years of repetitive scouring down and re-painting the frame works use galvanised steel not mild steel thats simply painted. 

[unheard]

31 minutes ago, Rotweiler said:

We are now faced with either replacing all the panels, or peeling off the insulation.  And these were high quality ones from the national chain. 

 

The white suggestion is actually not so good an idea.  They all turn colour soon anyway (dirt, rain, etc), so any lighter colour would be fine.

That's unfortunate.

Was the PU insulation option available at the time?

 

I've never heard of Bluescope coated metal changing color.

That's undeserved generalization.

Maybe the low quality coating of cheaper brands does.

[EVENKEEL]

10 minutes ago, sanook 1 said:

How long time ago was this? 

The one I had built was 3 yrs ago cost 510 thb/M for labor only, and the recent estimate for a 21.5 M shade was 350 THB/M for labor only. Which is even cheaper than what I paid before.

 

Now for the 21.5M job I had one guy quote 2,400thb/M  All in for everything. Which is insanely expensive.

[EVENKEEL]

2 minutes ago, Tropposurfer said:

You've had lots of feedback about the upper structure so I'll not comment on that.

As an ex-builder I would suggest that 100 mm thick floor slab is not thick enough - that is a ridiculous thickness to carry the load of cars.

This is especially relevant considering the lightweight reo-mesh that Thai's tend to use as standard in slabs which is completely inadequate., and that they have little to no understanding of expansion and controlled stress-crack joints.

For cars make the slab 150mm thick no less and use 7mm. dia. reinforcing mesh with proper concrete chairs throughout when pouring.

Simply going around and pulling the reo-mesh up by hand as the concrete is poured is useless as the mesh will settle down into the bottom of the pour and compromise the structural integrity of the slab.

Unless you want to spend years and years of repetitive scouring down and re-painting the frame works use galvanised steel not mild steel thats simply painted. 

4" (10cm) concrete is fine. 15 cm is way overkill. 

[unheard]

8 minutes ago, Tropposurfer said:

Simply going around and pulling the reo-mesh up by hand as the concrete is poured is useless as the mesh will settle down into the bottom of the pour and compromise the structural integrity of the slab.

What's the proper soil surface preparation process prior to pouring concrete?

Is the compacted or loose sand layer strictly necessary?

[unheard]

15 minutes ago, Tropposurfer said:

For cars make the slab 150mm thick no less and use 7mm. dia. reinforcing mesh with proper concrete chairs throughout when pouring.

How about the adjacent driveway?

The same thickness as the carport slab?

[itsari]

6 hours ago, Yellowtail said:

Just do it yourself, that way you know it will last and you do not have to let some shady contractor rip you off. 

 

You've already done the engineering and the material take-off, just have the material delivered and do it. You can usually get workers to help you for about 200 a day. 

200 a day ?

You appear out of touch with reality .

[Yellowtail]

1 hour ago, Encid said:

Also the PU insulation will act as sound insulation from the rain when those big thunderstorms roll by. 

Yes, we would not want to wake up the water tanks under the roof! 

[Chongalulu]

2 hours ago, EVENKEEL said:

Our insulated panels now 3+ yrs are still like new, Open to elements.

 

It happens quite suddenly as the glue breaks down. Mine was good for 3+ years but You’re approaching that point …

[lost in isaan]

Thank you all for your valuable suggestions! I was pleasantly surprised by the number of great ideas that were shared. As I'm currently in the midst of building a house, I have decided to create another thread with a broader perspective, where I will share my current progress with the house. I'm certain that many of you will have helpful feedback to offer, and I hope that my updates will be of use to others as well.

If a moderator could kindly close this thread, I would appreciate it. Thank you once again!

[ubonr1971]

9 hours ago, lost in isaan said:

The current plan only includes the construction of the carport, but I also intend to install five 2,000-liter tanks underneath it for easier maintenance compared to underground tanks. I will personally add the rainwater harvesting system at a later stage.

With ref to the underground tanks.... what happens if you need access. leaking pipe problems or tank issues. How does that work? Do you use a pump to direct that to the house? or is it for the garden use? thanks

[Yellowtail]

16 minutes ago, ubonr1971 said:

With ref to the underground tanks.... what happens if you need access. leaking pipe problems or tank issues. How does that work? Do you use a pump to direct that to the house? or is it for the garden use? thanks

Under the carport, not under the ground...

[Dazkkk]

10 hours ago, Tropposurfer said:

You've had lots of feedback about the upper structure so I'll not comment little on tat except the final remark I make..

As an ex-builder I would suggest that 100 mm thick floor slab is not thick enough - that is a ridiculous thickness to carry the load of cars.

This is especially relevant considering the lightweight reo-mesh that Thai's tend to use as standard in slabs which is completely inadequate., add to that Thai's have little to no understanding how to install expansion and controlled stress-crack joints.

For cars make the slab 150mm thick no less and use 7mm. dia. reinforcing mesh with proper concrete chairs throughout when pouring.

Simply going around and pulling the reo-mesh up by hand as the concrete is poured is useless as the mesh will settle down into the bottom of the pour and compromise the structural integrity of the slab.

Unless you want to spend years and years of repetitive scouring down and re-painting the frame works use galvanised steel not mild steel thats simply painted. 

I’d go even thicker on the slab, 200mm with the reinforcement mentioned above. I believe you will be installing 5 x  2000 LT water barrels on the slab, try doing the calculations on just how much all that water weighs, it will weigh 10,000 kgs!

Get the concrete from an established supplier, (not mixed in a bathtub with so much water it’s like soup) and insist on the correct water/cement ratio. Remember, water in concrete is mainly to start the chemical reaction process, but most builders want an easy life, so add so much water they reduce the finished concrete strength considerably.
As above, have the steel mesh on chairs or similar, mesh is no good laying on the sub base. Get the sub base compacted with a vibration plate and use a proper stone sub base. Allow for expansion joints. When you’ve laid concrete, cover it with plastic sheeting to keep it curing for longer.

The longer you keep the slab wet, the stronger your slab will be. 
Personally I would go for a thicker galvanised steel support wall thickness, maybe 3mm box steel, but that’s just me. 
As to the roof, I’ll leave that to others to give advice. 
Good luck. 

[Andycoops]

I always buy the materials myself. Most of my local shops, DIY stores deliver some with a small fee.

 

I definitely wouldn't use metal sheeting, I used a fibreglass/ceramic type from Home Shop. 66 baht each.

 

Just get him to provide the labour cost.

[Crossy]

At our OP's request please continue in his house building thread: -