Resurface cylinder head

[Tarteso]

4 minutes ago, Cake Monster said:

That head has been under pressure since 05 so there will be a load of stressed Metal in it from the pressure and usage..

When, and if you take the head to the machine shop get them to run a DTI over the head and you can see for yourself the amount of warp.

Remember !

When you replace the Head back onto the Block with its new gasket to Torque the Bolts down with the correct amount of Torque recommended and most important in the correct sequence,

Exactly... something like this;

[Ralf001]

9 minutes ago, Tarteso said:

Right, I used a torque wrench to remove the bolts but have the risk to warp the cylinder head

 

Undoing with a torque wrenc makes zero difference.

 

Some head bolts are torque to yield and therefore should not be re-used.

[Kwasaki]

4 hours ago, Tarteso said:

I had a coolant leak and it was leaking through the head gasket.  The engine is fine and does not lose compression. 

Well check the level of the surface You seem to be competent enough if you've got this far it may well OK and not need a skim. 

[Tarteso]

1 minute ago, Ralf001 said:

 

Undoing with a torque wrenc makes zero difference.

 

Some head bolts are torque to yield and therefore should not be re-used.

???? interesting reply

[Cake Monster]

7 minutes ago, Tarteso said:

Exactly... something like this;

If this is the sequence that is described in the Operators Maintenance Manual then yes,

You may need to Torque 2 times around 

Once at a lower recommended setting then again at the full pull down Torgue.

Read the Manual Carefully and understand it well.

[Kwasaki]

5 hours ago, Liverpool Lou said:

Wasn't he only asking about where he could get it skimmed?  Perhaps he decided that he wants to have it resurfaced?

Oh! Sorry I forgot I was not allowed to advise the alternative.

[Kwasaki]

5 hours ago, Olmate said:

Why would you not bother to have it resurfaced,given it’s a simple job?

Why are all you clowns asking me,  try thinking about it. 

[Ralf001]

http://honda.automotive-manuals.com/cr-v-2002-2005/A00/HTML/UQ/S9A5EUQA14600000000KCAT00-cylinder-head-installation-except-diesel-.html

 

 

[canthai55]

Beam style torque wrench - so 1960's

For aluminum head best practice is to go in minimum 3 steps - 4 steps better.

New Head bolts also.

Don't know if torque to yield or torque then X degrees more for this engine.

With one of these

 

[Olmate]

8 minutes ago, Kwasaki said:

Why are all you clowns asking me,  try thinking about it. 

You suggested to just replace the gasket ,now that’s clown material!????

[Olmate]

5 hours ago, Kwasaki said:

What you mean by blown, ? how did it blow, ?  as said clean it up and install a new head gasket.

 

[Ralf001]

1 minute ago, canthai55 said:

Beam style torque wrench - so 1960's

For aluminum head best practice is to go in minimum 3 steps - 4 steps better.

New Head bolts also.

Don't know if torque to yield or torque then X degrees more for this engine.

With one of these

 

 

 

Yeah step #9 of the Honda manual I linked.

 

 

 

[Tarteso]

11 minutes ago, Ralf001 said:

http://honda.automotive-manuals.com/cr-v-2002-2005/A00/HTML/UQ/S9A5EUQA14600000000KCAT00-cylinder-head-installation-except-diesel-.html

 

 

Checking now ????????

[Tarteso]

3 minutes ago, canthai55 said:

Beam style torque wrench - so 1960's

For aluminum head best practice is to go in minimum 3 steps - 4 steps better.

New Head bolts also.

Don't know if torque to yield or torque then X degrees more for this engine.

With one of these

 

Waiting to receive this item from lazada????

[Tarteso]

16 minutes ago, canthai55 said:

New Head bolts also.

Can’t find bolts for crv 2.0. But I found in Ebay for 2.4...Also need new valve springs I don’t know if can fix with 2.0.

 

any advice? 

Edited May 4, 2021 by Tarteso

[Ralf001]

11 minutes ago, Tarteso said:

Can’t find bolts for crv 2.0. But I found in Ebay for 2.4...Also need new valve springs I don’t know if can fix with 2.0.

 

any advice? 

 

 

You have the K20A4 engine I believe, I found some head bolts but they are like $20.00 usd each !!

 

[Tarteso]

6 minutes ago, Ralf001 said:

 

You have the K20A4 engine I believe, I found some head bolts but they are like $20.00 usd each !!

 

And multiply x 10  + taxs....No way !!!

Edited May 4, 2021 by Tarteso

[Ralf001]

2 minutes ago, Tarteso said:

And multiply x 10 ... No way !!!

 

Did you measure yours ?

[Tarteso]

21 minutes ago, Ralf001 said:

 

Did you measure yours ?

Looks like all it’s right, but I think I can buy the set from CRV 2.4, I don’t see the diffrerence....

Edited May 4, 2021 by Tarteso

[alacrity]

6 hours ago, Tarteso said:

The air conditioner was beginning to fail ... I take the opportunity that the car is open to change, not only the head gasket and resurfacing,  also filters, rings, rubbers, condenser, sensors, coolant pipe, water pump, spark plugs. Anyway, absolute cleanliness and ... new car!

With an older vehicle, 'if it ain't broke' don't 'fix it' is the general rule . Gaskets are fitted in order to overcome 'slight' variances' in areas of contact, which are within the design tolerance.

 

Noted that 'head bolts' aren't included in your wish list. As they are 'singular use' stretch bolts on your motor, I would suggest that you're being advised by an idiot.

 

If, at some time the head has been removed, and refitted, without new bolts (and the correct torqueing sequence) being used, I would suggest that would be the direct cause of your coolant leak. Clean the mating surfaces and fitting a new gasket would most likely cure that problem, using new bolts.

 

It's an old motor and messing with for no good reason just releases more gremlins.

 

Have you any idea of the level of 'strip' needed to replace piston rings?

Edited May 4, 2021 by alacrity
the bolts bolted

[Tarteso]

39 minutes ago, alacrity said:

Have you any idea of the level of 'strip' needed to replace piston rings?

Thanks for reply...No see any idiot here, just people who gives their opinion... wrong or right opinion. Anyway, This video gave me the idea;

 

 

Edited May 4, 2021 by Tarteso

[canthai55]

1 hour ago, alacrity said:

Have you any idea of the level of 'strip' needed to replace piston rings?

Head off already.

Drop the oil pan, remove rod bolts and caps, pistons come out the top.

Doubt it would take one hour to have all 4 rods and pistons on the bench.

[DavisH]

7 hours ago, Tarteso said:

Right, I used a torque wrench to remove the bolts but have the risk to warp the cylinder head

Just get enough of the head milled to make it flat. Too much and the compression ratio will increase - that's goof for performance but then igntion timing needs changing, maybe different fuel, and would need remapping to make it all work. 

https://www.onallcylinders.com/2016/01/06/head-milling-101-the-basics-of-head-milling-to-gain-more-compression/

Edited May 4, 2021 by DavisH

[scorecard]

13 hours ago, canthai55 said:

Combustion chambers nice and clean. Use FI cleaner ?

 

Pro-Auto at Hang Dong can do this work, we had similar issues with our Honda Civic, they did the skimming or whatever, fixed the problem, all completed and car back within 48 hrs, reasonable price.

[Ralf001]

9 hours ago, alacrity said:

 

 

Noted that 'head bolts' aren't included in your wish list. As they are 'singular use' stretch bolts on your motor, I would suggest that you're being advised by an idiot.

 

 

 

Which idiot suggested to re-use the old head bolts ?

[thoengthaied]

I lived in Africa before I came to live in Thailand. There were very few facilities there and many car parts were not available. The car mechanics had to be very good at making do with what they had and were extremely good at repairing broken parts. I used to take my cars to a guy who worked from home in a bare earth compound with his extended family. One day I took my car to him and saw him and another guy sat either side of a tree stump pushing and pulling something between them. Closer inspection revealed that sat on the tree stump was a board with a sheet of glass. They had glued a sheet of sandpaper to the glass and on top of this was a cylinder head which they were tirelessly sliding across the sandpaper to and fro. This was their method of skimming the head. They must have been pushing and pulling for hours. Such patience and ingenuity. Amazing. 

[Tarteso]

13 minutes ago, thoengthaied said:

I lived in Africa before I came to live in Thailand. There were very few facilities there and many car parts were not available. The car mechanics had to be very good at making do with what they had and were extremely good at repairing broken parts. I used to take my cars to a guy who worked from home in a bare earth compound with his extended family. One day I took my car to him and saw him and another guy sat either side of a tree stump pushing and pulling something between them. Closer inspection revealed that sat on the tree stump was a board with a sheet of glass. They had glued a sheet of sandpaper to the glass and on top of this was a cylinder head which they were tirelessly sliding across the sandpaper to and fro. This was their method of skimming the head. They must have been pushing and pulling for hours. Such patience and ingenuity. Amazing. 

Necessity, the mother of invention.. Youtube have a few videos working cylinder head with this metod.

Edited May 6, 2021 by Tarteso

[canthai55]

Check out Youtube Pakistani Truck - those guys are amazing

[Cake Monster]

On 5/4/2021 at 4:30 PM, Ralf001 said:

http://honda.automotive-manuals.com/cr-v-2002-2005/A00/HTML/UQ/S9A5EUQA14600000000KCAT00-cylinder-head-installation-except-diesel-.html

 

 

This is the kind of Torque sequence that I would have expected to see in the Manual.

Starting in the middle and then cross Torqueing out so that any minute bow is pulled down at the ends.

Most people do not understand that Metal is a living thing. It expands with Heat and Cold, and moves under various stress all the time.

Many years ago when I was an Apprentice Toolmaker in the UK, we only made pressing tools from Metal that had been " Weathered ".

This was special Tool Steel that had been left in the Foundry yard for at least 10 Years.

Any other Metal, and the press Tools would crack under useage ( Hot Stamping )

 

[Tarteso]

1 hour ago, Cake Monster said:

This is the kind of Torque sequence that I would have expected to see in the Manual.

Starting in the middle and then cross Torqueing out so that any minute bow is pulled down at the ends.

Most people do not understand that Metal is a living thing. It expands with Heat and Cold, and moves under various stress all the time.

Many years ago when I was an Apprentice Toolmaker in the UK, we only made pressing tools from Metal that had been " Weathered ".

This was special Tool Steel that had been left in the Foundry yard for at least 10 Years.

Any other Metal, and the press Tools would crack under useage ( Hot Stamping )

 

Just found and order the 10 new Bolts ????

Another issue I found are the valves, they are very oxided so I will clean with dremel,  grease them and hope they fit with the pistons well.

Edited May 6, 2021 by Tarteso