Quality of life in Kho Samui

[Logosone]

I am getting bored of Chiang Mai and am looking at Kho Samui. Air quality and beach feel appeal. However I wonder about the following:

 

1. There is a great choice of European shopping in Chiang Mai, even a French bakery with excellent baguette. I am assuming this is not the case in Kho Samui. Is that correct? There is no French bakery, baguette or supermarket with European shopping items?

 

2. Are prices the same, eg are Grab rides normal priced or is it a Phuket taxi mafia situation?

 

3. Is it viable to go to shopping in Surat Thani and is shopping there any good (ie malls, supermarkets, it looks like they are older malls in Kho Samui)

 

4. Massage places, are there good ones in Kho Samui?

[Eindhoven]

Unless everything has closed, Samui has all of those things and more. Taxis might be a sticking point.

[Tropicalevo]

Your thoughts about Koh Samui are wrong.

The island is well developed to cater for the foreign tourists that 'used' to come here.

 

Tops (Waitrose brand), Big C, Tesco Lotus and Makro are all present on the island. Some in multiple locations.

Near where I live I have a choice of about four French bakeries - and other very good ones. Search King of Bread Samui - it is very popular.

 

https://duckduckgo.com/?t=ffnt&q=King+of+Bread+samui&atb=v1-1&ia=web

 

Grab is not as cheap as Bangkok and is probably closer to Phuket but in desperate times, prices are coming down. Many drivers will want to be your 'best friend' and give you a better price.

 

The main shopping mall on Koh Samui is Central Festival. I cannot talk about shopping in Suratthani as I have never shopped there in the 21 years that I have been here.
 

Lots of good massage places on the island and with the latest closures, the girls will do home visits. There are also a large number of 5* spas on the island that would cater for foreign tourists.

 

Not on your list - hospitals and dentists.

Large government hospital in Nathon and four International hospitals.

In many towns, there are also private clinics and pharmacies that will also act as 'first call' for medical advice. Some of the international hospitals also offer dental services and dentists in most of the larger towns.

 

The air quality here is amongst the best in Thailand. (One of many reasons that I live here.)

 

Come down for a break and try the island. Covid times are not the best time with all of the restrictions, but it is still pretty good.

Edited May 5, 2021 by Tropicalevo

[kiteman9]

Getting bored of Chiang Mai means more and likely you will end up bored in Kho Samui. Scientific research reports that individuals who are often bored are also more prone to poor mental health.

Edited May 5, 2021 by kiteman9
spelling error

[phetphet]

One other thing to consider, especially if you plan on using taxis, is which part of the island to stay. Pick  the wrong place and you might be in a tourist void ghost town, or a beautiful, very quiet place far from most amenities.

[khunPer]

1 hour ago, Logosone said:

1. There is a great choice of European shopping in Chiang Mai, even a French bakery with excellent baguette. I am assuming this is not the case in Kho Samui. Is that correct? There is no French bakery, baguette or supermarket with European shopping items?

 

2. Are prices the same, eg are Grab rides normal priced or is it a Phuket taxi mafia situation?

 

3. Is it viable to go to shopping in Surat Thani and is shopping there any good (ie malls, supermarkets, it looks like they are older malls in Kho Samui)

 

4. Massage places, are there good ones in Kho Samui?

1)

There are excellent European, and foreign, shopping facilities on Samui. The three major hyper markets; BigC, Makro and Tesco-Lotus (changing name to Lotus's); all have a wide selection of foreign products, especially BigC that is slightly more luxurious than Lotus's, and Makro that is aiming mainly as supplier for restaurants and hotels, including the numerous gourmet restaurants and 5-star hotels.

 

Furthermore in Chaweng, in the Central Festival shopping mall, there is a quite large Tops supermarket that has an outstanding selection of high end products; including both vegan and vegetarian stuff, and a huge wine-selection, plus a fine bakery and delicatessen section...

 

 

 

 

 

 

There are a number of both French and German bakeries on the island, and also BigC, Makro and Lotus's have bakeries with fresh bread, and some of them are actually fine.

 

Even the smaller Tesco Express and Mini BigC super markets have a number of Western products.

 

2)

Grab is available, but I'm not familiar with their prices; you can probably find them in a Grab app.

 

Taxis are known to be overpriced, but other posters have mentioned that using grab, it might be the same a moment ago overpriced taxi, which you refused, that shows up and now drives you at Grab-price...????

 

In daytime until 6 pm a song thaew is a possibility, driving you from 20 baht to around 100 baht depending of distance.

 

3)

As mentioned i 1) there are a number of larger markets, i.e. shopping malls, including also shops like Power Buy and Home Pro, and of course a Central department store for brand name stuff, besides the individual brand name stores, and specialized butiques with for example wines. You can buy almost everything on Samui.

 

 

4)

There are plenty of massage shops (closed at present due to Covid-restrictions) ranging from small local shops, where you can have excellent traditional Thai massage and oil massage from around 250 baht to 300 baht an hour – after testing a few you'll find your favorite – to hi-end luxury massage places, like Peace Tropical Spa, where some customers gladly pays 2,000 baht to 3,000 baht for a session.

[khunPer]

2 hours ago, Logosone said:

I am getting bored of Chiang Mai and am looking at Kho Samui. Air quality and beach feel appeal.

Best advise, as always, is to come down and check it out for yourself. Try a few different locations on the island, or at least get around, as Samui is so much more than just Chaweng Beach and Lamai Beach...????

[Birdman]

There are more Farang bakeries than at most other places in Thailand. Alone in a radius of 2 km from my non touristic home there are 4 (which I know). Best pastry shops in whole Thailand? Had Rin

 

Prices are the same as in Phuket. Some things are more expensive here.

 

Surat Thani people come for shopping to Samui.

 

Are you joking? Massage places are here everywhere and everywhere there are some who can massage better than others.

 

Actually would not ask that kind of 4 questions, if I would move to a completely new place. 

 

[Logosone]

This is all excellent news, thanks guys. 

 

And the small size of the place, I gather Koh Samui is quite small, does not bother you if you live there?

[Swimfan]

29 minutes ago, khunPer said:Samui is so much more than just Chaweng Beach and Lamai Beach...????

Well said. Those that pan Samui are the ones that have never taken the time to explore. 

[Tropicalevo]

29 minutes ago, Logosone said:

And the small size of the place, I gather Koh Samui is quite small, does not bother you if you live there?

Samui is 'small but perfectly formed'. ????

If you love big cities, you will probably get 'island fever' after a while.

 

It is quite diverse and in spite of what some people with little knowledge say - it has lots of small bays and quiet beaches.

The main road around the island is about 57 kilometers and the island is just under 230 sq kilometers in area. (Second largest island in Thailand.)

In 2019 there were about 3 million foreign visitors  to the island. Covid has decimated the tourist industry with the two major tourist towns dead. (Chaweng and Lamai.)

There is even 'the mountain'. 635 meters high. (Most locals call it the mountain.) There are very few flat areas on the island. Trekking is hot, hard work.

 

The size of Samui does not bother me but then I am quite an old faart and I was looking for a better quality of life when I came here.  I was always sitting on planes or staying in hotels whilst my wife was living alone at home.

It all depends on your age and your attitude. ie what are you really looking for?

 

If you are 25 and looking to party? Wait a few years until Covid can be tamed.

Edited May 5, 2021 by Tropicalevo

[khunPer]

2 hours ago, Logosone said:

And the small size of the place, I gather Koh Samui is quite small, does not bother you if you live there?

Perfect size, not too big, nor too small.

With International airport within 30 minutes car og ride from most of the island, both a day-trip to Bangkok is possible – one hour each way, have done it several times – or a long week in Hong Kong, Kuala Lompur or Singapore is within reach.

You can get to the mainland by car ferry by two lines departing on the hour, or by express catamaran boat. Neighboring, but little smaller, Koh Phangan is only 15-30 minutes away by speed boat or ferry.

If you for a moment forget the present Covid-situation...

How often do you get out of the neighborhood you live in? Most people actually don't move that much, if everything is within reach, like cinemas, variety of shopping, hospitals (if needed), outstanding beaches, nature and trekking, and amusement with anything from gourmet restaurants to cozy local diners, a pub to meet other expats and locals for an afternoon drink by a beachfront, pubs and bars in evenings, beach parties or venues with live music, and a number of night clubs; it's all depending of one's individual life-style.

 

And if you prefers the hermit kind of life, there are still remote bays and isolated hill tops, excellent for meditation...????

[Logosone]

I have to say based on your comments and what I saw already, the good quality air, beaches, abundance of good restaurants, international airport, French and German bakeries I am seriously considering making the move to Koh Samui and will check it out. I'm still a bit concerned that the Central Festival is a bit older than the one in Chiang Mai but otherwise, one hour flight to Bangkok is the same as Chiang Mai, French and German bakeries, the same supermarkets, same accommodation prices and Surat Thani and islands quite close I think it is definitely time to check out the island.

[Logosone]

Just one last question, is the internet fast and reliable in Samui?

[Tropicalevo]

6 minutes ago, Logosone said:

Just one last question, is the internet fast and reliable in Samui?

yes - many options.

TOT, 3BB, Trueonline and I use a private supplier. There may be others, these are the ones that I have used over the years.

Many villas use 1 gigabyte 3BB. Fast enough for online teaching, schooling, download, Netflix etc.

Most rental villas/hotels offer internet. Some of the more remote areas on the island may not give great coverage. (Up on 'the mountain' etc.) It will depend on where you stay.

A very rough guide - other residents may have more info :-

Northern beaches area good coverage

Western beaches are good to ok.

Southern area, ok to average.

Eastern beaches are good.

Middle of the island  - from ok to none.

[khunPer]

36 minutes ago, Logosone said:

Just one last question, is the internet fast and reliable in Samui?

Central Festival opened in 2014, I think Chiang Mai opened in 2015, but Samui's is a different style, about 400 meters long open boutique-style, like most are on Samui, even the airport that got prices for it's unique architecture.

 

 

 

 

 

You can have Internet fiber connection from 100/100 Mbit/sec and up, I presume to 500/500 at the moment. Internet have actually been quite reliable the later years.

 

Impression from Samui Big Buddha Airport (USM)...

 

 

 

Edited May 5, 2021 by khunPer

[phetphet]

2 hours ago, Logosone said:

I have to say based on your comments and what I saw already, the good quality air, beaches, abundance of good restaurants, international airport, French and German bakeries I am seriously considering making the move to Koh Samui and will check it out. I'm still a bit concerned that the Central Festival is a bit older than the one in Chiang Mai but otherwise, one hour flight to Bangkok is the same as Chiang Mai, French and German bakeries, the same supermarkets, same accommodation prices and Surat Thani and islands quite close I think it is definitely time to check out the island.

Another thought. If you want to be by the sea and still close to a major city, e.g. Bangkok, you might want to consider somewhere like Hua Hin

[fdsa]

I've lived in both Chiang Mai and Samui for few years each, then moved to Phuket because of Samui's lack of civilization.

IMO: Chiang Mai is a nice city for retirement, not very suitable for young pals and Samui is a large village with nothing to do, while Phuket is a middle between Chiang Mai's civilization and Samui's "island life".

 

 

8 hours ago, Logosone said:

1. There is a great choice of European shopping in Chiang Mai, even a French bakery with excellent baguette. I am assuming this is not the case in Kho Samui. Is that correct? There is no French bakery, baguette or supermarket with European shopping items?

 

Samui is much worse than Chiang Mai in terms of shopping malls; micro-Tops in Central Festival is in no way compared to Rimping in Chiang Mai.

Yes, there are some French etc shops but do not expect vast choice.

 

8 hours ago, Logosone said:

2. Are prices the same, eg are Grab rides normal priced or is it a Phuket taxi mafia situation?

shop prices are the same, however taxi mafia is in place. There are no meters in cars and drivers charge you enormously based on some printed and laminated price list.

 

 

8 hours ago, Logosone said:

3. Is it viable to go to shopping in Surat Thani and is shopping there any good (ie malls, supermarkets, it looks like they are older malls in Kho Samui)

 

spending 5 hours on the road (2 ways ferry trip) is not worth it. However I confirm that Central Festival in Suratthani is bigger than in Samui (AFAIR it's 4 storeys vs 2 in Samui and overall area is larger)

 

 

8 hours ago, Logosone said:

4. Massage places, are there good ones in Kho Samui?

 

plenty of them, as anywhere else. Or you mean "special" massage places?

well, plenty of them, as anywhere else ????

 

 

To sum up: come to Samui for few months and you'll see if you'll want to stay longer.

 

Edited May 5, 2021 by fdsa

[khunPer]

1 hour ago, fdsa said:

Samui is much worse than Chiang Mai in terms of shopping malls; micro-Tops in Central Festival is in no way compared to Rimping in Chiang Mai.

You have not been on Samui recently, Tops is big now, they've taken over the whole northern part of Central Festival's ground floor.

[Logosone]

A lot of fanstatic replies, thanks everyone surpassed my expectations, things are much clearer now, really helpful.

 

Thanks Khun Per for clarifying about the age of Central Festival in Samui, I was looking at clips on Youtube, and thought it was much older, but it must be the outdoors concept rather than older architecture.

 

fdsa, can you elaborate on "lack of civilization"? I saw that much of Samui is dead now, as it appears to rely more on tourism than many places, but I suspect you mean something else. Just small size?

 

I quite agree that Chiang Mai is a very nice city, the hundreds of years of history vibe, plus cool weather sometimes and choice of restaurants has been very pleasant. Unfortunately the air quality is worse than I thought, which is a dealbreaker, but I certainly don't want to sacrifice the benefits of Chiang Mai, lots of massage places, restaurants, malls, french bakeries etc. I am still concerned about the size of Samui but it has so many plus points I will check it out. I saw there is no Grab food delivery in Samui but that's no an issue for me.

 

Phetphet, I've been to Hua Hin, nice fish, but too sprawled out and not my thing. I think it's between Chiang Mai, Ko Samui or Pattya. 

[Maha Sarakham]

I would advise you to visit Samui before you pull the "that's it, I'm moving to Samui" card based off of a few posts here.  Nothing against KhunPer and TropicalEvo, they are both very helpful, well-spoken, and regular posters here, but they are Samui's biggest shill's as well.  You basically read all the great things about Samui and almost decided to move based on that alone.  Don't get me wrong, Samui is a wonderful place that I someday hope to retire to as well, but seriously consider going there first as they suggested.  Taxis and Grab are not cheap on Samui, they are more expensive than Phuket in some cases.  Depending on your interest in riding a motorbike or driving on the island, that could be a potential deal breaker alone.  Go see what you think about it once the interprovincial restrictions are lifted.

[Logosone]

Of course I will have a look before I go there, but honestly I did not rate Samui as highly as after things have been clarified here (good internet, European shopping, good air quality, massage places). The only downsides I see to Samui are basically size, fewer malls, restaurants, and facilities generally, transport a little more expensive and no grab food deliveries, maybe Central Festival in Chiang Mai is a small cut above the one Samui and you don't get that vibe of civilized 1000 year old city in Samui, however, Samui has a very strong package. The island feel and beach life is the big draw of course and you'd not sacrifice much in terms of facilities. And there is that horrible air in Chiang Mai for months. But you're right of course it'll be a question of staying in Samui a few months. Still very good info here, and appreciate all the pics of malls and such. I have heard some good things about Surat Thani, but it looks like expats don't go there. Wonder why.

[Birdman]

Main reason to live on a tropical palmtree  island is, because it is a tropical palmtree island. All the rest are goodies. And Samui is the most comfortable tropical island with most goodies. CNX has nice souroundings, but is a no go area for months because heavy airpollution. And there is no sea.

Phuket is rather a hectic city at sea, which I like a few times per year to visit. It's not far.

[Jeffr2]

We've spent a fair amount of time on Samui over the past 20 years.  Stopped going because of the taxi mafia, crazy traffic and skyrocketing prices for hotel rooms.  If you go now, you won't experience any of those.  But they'll be back when tourism cranks up again.

 

Right now, if you don't mind most places closed, it's a great time to visit.  Absolutely lovely.  And no traffic. LOL.

[ClaySmc]

"Depending on your interest in riding a motorbike or driving on the island, that could be a potential deal breaker alone."

Maha Sarakham

 

I'm thinking about a similar move but am held back by transportation. Are there areas one could live without driving, and going bankrupt by using taxis or grab?

 

 

 

•  

[LivinLOS]

I live in Chiang Mai and regularly visit Samui.. Thats the way round I personally prefer it, tho I consider keeping a more permanent island home for more long term visits. I flip flop on the issue but get easily burnt out with mass tourism. 

 

Samui has the things your asking for, but it does not have them in the frequency or price that Chiang Mai does. In general the best facilities are concentrated around Chaweng (or at least the east to north quadrant) which I personally find a poorly / over developed mess. I find I have to put much more 'work' into getting high quality meats, bread, cheese, wine, etc luxuries than in Chiang Mai and the cost is way higher. 

Similarly the cost of eating out, which we do almost nightly, is clearly designed for a tourist audience at island pricing on Samui v Chiang Mai. Its a little unfair comparison really as CM is just mind blowing and cut throat competitive for the restaurant trade but the sheer volume of western offerings around CM, smokehouse meats, Vietnamese, Italian, middle eastern, Vegetarian and Vegan, etc etc is just way higher, way cheaper and mostly superior standards.. An obvious outlier is the seafood options on Samui but again, not hard to spend a few 1000 for a couple eating well beachside. 

Accommodation options.. CM has the cheaper lower quality thing locked up but theres a much better selection of nice, small villa with pools on Samui than CM. Right now the deals on Samui are just crazy.. Seaview villas for 30, inland jungle view ones in the low 20s, proper luxury villas 30 - 40 and I just saw an actual beachfront 3 bed pool villa for 45 direct beach access.. Thats a COVID anomaly but locking up a multi year rent now wouldnt be a bad move. 

Expat scene in both places has ups and downs, I like that theres a younger, more affluent party crowd on Samui.. Gecko in Bhoput and (previously) some real fun nightspots.. Legacy of FMPs and history going back to the 90s for clubbing carries over. Chiang Mai's nightlife has been battered into the ground by the Junta (and now COVID) and likely was never anything like the same.. Also the penny pinching retiree expat scene in CM can get a bit Gods Waiting Room !! CM has lots of activity sport appeals and so dirt biking, Mountain biking, river rafting, and outdoorsy camping etc is more the pre pension age entertainment appeals. Of course in this sense CM is a large province, linked to many other beautiful provinces in the North where Samui is an island (a lovely one with some great national parks close by) so its perhaps a slightly unfair comparison. 

I visited Samui mid summer during COVID and despite lockdowns and a lack of services, a mess of roadworks and a bit of a derelict vibe, I once again had a great time. I am considering going in June for a month or 6 weeks, but a couple of years ago I was there in semi high season and it was way too busy for me. That level of bustle put me off even going into the areas where the mentioned luxury items are and I dont Think Samui Dec to Feb in any normal year would be for me any longer. 

A near ideal life balance would be Samui March to June / July and CM the rest of the year.. Mountains and beach in its own doses and avoiding the crowds and the smoke.. 

Edited May 6, 2021 by LivinLOS

[easydoor]

You have wrong information: on Koh Samui trhere is all you need concerning farang shops, bars, good massages..... Makro's Big C, Tesco Lotus ..... EVERYTHING. Going shoppin at Surat Thani? Do you have an idea how long it takes to go there?

Prices at Koh Samui are higher as CM as you are on an island.

[LivinLOS]

8 hours ago, khunPer said:

You have not been on Samui recently, Tops is big now, they've taken over the whole northern part of Central Festival's ground floor.

 
I dont think you realize the diversity and quality and price of Chiang Mai options.. On this aspect, its leagues better if your used to that variety. 

Some people dont care and hence wont notice.. But its one of the advantages of CM... Theres also of course plenty of disadvantages many of which Samui doesn't suffer and traffic which I think they both do. 

[robsamui]

One thing that's been skated-over is that you absolutely need your own transport on the island. There is no organised 'public transport' at all. 

Yes, several posters have replied regarding using Grab, but these are people who don't appear to use Grab themselves, because they have their own vehicles!

There is only a small proportion of the island which is densely-populated enough to be able to walk to all of the various shops you'll need. And, unless you're living in the middle of Chaweng or Lamai, that'll mean calling, then waiting for, and paying for a taxi every time you need to travel anywhere that's more than 30 minutes walk - undoubtedly several times a day, most of the time. And if any quantity of shopping is involved you'll need more than a motorbike; a taxi will be needed again.

Prices of both Songthiews and Taxis also ramp up after dark, adding further to the overall cost.

 

Even if you're not staying long, motorbikes are cheap to rent and prices have dropped to between 50 - 66% of that which they were 18 months ago (1,500B a month in some places now for a Click).

One  other point worth mentioning as it's cropped up a lot, over time, is Samui's rainy season, which differs to both Phuket and Chiang Mai. Samui's rain begins in late October and is beginning to break by the start of the new year and by mid February it's generally over (although this year has been unseasonable wet).

 

As has been advised by most - come to stay for a month (or more) and give the place a once-over.

[Tropicalevo]

1 minute ago, LivinLOS said:

 
I dont think you realize the diversity and quality and price of Chiang Mai options.. On this aspect, its leagues better if your used to that variety.

Keep in context that you are comparing a large city with a small island. The facilities cannot compare.

 

'The Chiang Mai metropolitan area has a population of nearly one million people, which is more than half of the total population of Chiang Mai Province. '

 

Samui, 62,000 people at the last count.

 

Personally, I love visiting Chiang Mai but always for a week or less.

Different strokes for different folks.

 

"I'm thinking about a similar move but am held back by transportation. Are there areas one could live without driving, and going bankrupt by using taxis or grab?"

 

On the subject of transport, if you are staying here for 10 days or more, then you will want your own transport.

Taxis/grab etc are too expensive long term. ie not city prices.

Long term scooter or car rental is reasonably priced.

Gasoline is slightly more expensive as are most other consumables. That is down to transport costs. Everything comes to the island by ferry or air.