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How to stop leak from 1 inch pipe in plastic tank.


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Posted
1 hour ago, sometimewoodworker said:

Un-tapered

01C9F53F-6185-4E48-B6ED-C15FE85FD694.thumb.jpeg.35632eb26135344794b238516c58642b.jpeg

the same fitting with the guide dowels in the wrong place seemingly tapered

86CEF55A-6CBA-4319-8DFB-8AF753BBD250.thumb.jpeg.97ad692948394f05a65f0bd51f3b73be.jpeg

 

so while tapered threads may be available they are far from standard.

 

your preparation for picture methodology is not clearly correct, many fittings have a slightly larger base so giving an illusion of a taper if your chopsticks are too low. I don’t say that your fittings do not have a tapered thread, just that you haven’t made that as clear as you think.

 

I think if you look closely at the picture I posted you will see the SCG fitting does not have the large base as does yours, or the rounded-over threads. What brand is that?

 

Pipe threads get tighter as you screw them together because they are tapered. If the treads are not tapered, will they not just screw in until they bottom?

 

SCG may not be standard, but they do seem to be the supplier of choice at HomePro.

 

In any event, I hope the taper is more clear in the following:

395263540_pipe07.jpg.1c407b89ea28f55339e56080495e863c.jpg

381704474_pipe08.jpg.e259fdc5e718e550519fd796bd9f3b74.jpg

Posted
17 minutes ago, Speedhump said:

No. You crack me up. In Home Pro I have never seen pipe individually labelled like this. 

Oh yeah, I just went and bought a label printer and printed that out, then I rubbed it to make it look really old. Then put together a phony website and loaded it it with SCG products so that I could prove I'm right. Hilarious. 

 

If you want to go through life thinking pipe threads are generally parallel, and that they are loose fitting such that you can wrap a bunch of tape around them you go ahead brother, makes me no nevermind. 

 

 

 

 

Posted
9 minutes ago, Yellowtail said:

Oh yeah, I just went and bought a label printer and printed that out, then I rubbed it to make it look really old. Then put together a phony website and loaded it it with SCG products so that I could prove I'm right. Hilarious. 

 

If you want to go through life thinking pipe threads are generally parallel, and that they are loose fitting such that you can wrap a bunch of tape around them you go ahead brother, makes me no nevermind. 

 

 

 

 

I've never even commented on threads or tape, I think you're a bit deluded. And I've spent time in Home Pro trying different size bends with different pipe because the bends and tees are not labelled and often get mixed in the bins. Perhaps given a few years you might come up with the notion that not all stores adhere to the same procedure. But I have a feeling possibly not. Have a great evening. 

Posted

I use this for emergencies.  We have around 7 water pumps on our property and plenty of PVC pipes breaking.

 

Heres a screen shot.  Also used it in our pool for a tile crack.

 

I've been told not to use the metal thread pipe but all PVC..

 

Good stuff to have on hand in case of an emergency.

Screenshot_20210827-214125.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Keep the water level below the leaking pipe... Do I win a prize!!!...sorry I had to say that.

 

Ok... seriously empty the tank and remove the leaking fitting!! Replace and/or....drill with hole saw and up-size to 1 1/2 inch outlet fitting. Adapt back down to your 1  inch. Use brass instead of PVC.

Edited by Thaifish
Posted

Can you capture the water that is leaking and use it for something?

 

If not and you don't find a solution, there is always the option of shutting off the water into the tank, then running the tank down as low as you can.  

 

If you can find a decent plumber or someone from the tank company have them redo the internal connection and make sure that the external connection is made for the internal one.  A matched pair, so to speak. 

 

Of course I do not know if the tank is on the ground or 25 feet in the air.

 

Best of luck.

Posted
4 hours ago, Yellowtail said:

What brand is that?

No name embossed and nothing in English on the label so I don’t know

 

4 hours ago, Yellowtail said:

Pipe threads get tighter as you screw them together because they are tapered.

Some are some are not

 

4 hours ago, Yellowtail said:

If the treads are not tapered, will they not just screw in until they bottom?

Yes

4 hours ago, Yellowtail said:

In any event, I hope the taper is more clear in the following:

It is.

as I said the original pictures were not clear enough to show the taper due to the possibility of a bigger base..

 

SGC may cut the threads so getting a sharp crown. I use HomePro for pipe as the carry the 13.5 but usually get junctions from the local shop, and I know that they are not 13.5 but I use the thicker pipe for sun resistance not pressure 

Posted
On 8/27/2021 at 3:24 PM, YayaManos said:

Firstly check threads of the tank, trying using PTFE paste compound on the 1 inch nipple with PTFE tape this would stop the leak. It will work. Apply the paste all around threads of the nipple than go with white tape.

Lots of good suggestions in these replies. I have little to add.

There is an older product called pipe dope that has largely been replaced by PTFE tape/paste. It has the consistency of window glass putty and may be hard to find. Lazada?

As a last resort the OP might try the 2 part expoxy putty roll that is kneaded by hand and then applied to the pipe or joint manually. It's used to patch leaking pipes so maybe could be used like the plumbers putty since it's water resistant.  Maybe apply liberally to the male and female threads of the fitting before joining them?

 

Posted
28 minutes ago, RocketDog said:

There is an older product called pipe dope that has largely been replaced by PTFE tape/paste. It has the consistency of window glass putty and may be hard to find.

Pipe dope is available from all the usual places, known as pipe joint compound, it’s a semi liquid not a putty consistency. I don’t recall ever seeing, or using a putty, I have used the semi-liquid but can’t see where the can is if it’s still around.

Posted

Assuming there are no cracks in the fittings, forget the white tape (the Thai version is very inferior), and forget any chemical sealers or glues.  Go full-metal-jacket Old Skool - find an old hemp rope, peel of sufficient fibers to wrap the thread, apply some heavy grease and screw it in.

 

I've seen pipe joints that have lasted over a century using hemp - when you put a wrench to them the fitting will demolish itself (rusted) before the thread joint gives up the ghost.

Posted (edited)
27 minutes ago, sometimewoodworker said:

Even if it works as advertised it’s totally useless for the OP. He doesn’t have a hole to fix.

If he has water leaking out then he has a hole to fill. He needs to overlap the tape. Pretty simple really. Well it is to me.

Edited by IvorBiggun2
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Posted
2 hours ago, IvorBiggun2 said:

If he has water leaking out then he has a hole to fill. He needs to overlap the tape. Pretty simple really. Well it is to me.

The threads are leaking = no hole = can’t work as it can’t fit between the threads.

 

your solution could have been designed by Heath Robinson as a vastly expensive extremely complex way to solve a problem that can be solved using cheap standard materials.

 

It is not clear if your magic tape is a permanent solution or just a Band Aid that needs to be correctly fixed later.

Posted

As your efforts have failed, it does seem like the bond between the plastic pipe and the brass insert may have failed...Have you a photo of the area..?

Posted
19 hours ago, sometimewoodworker said:

Pipe dope is available from all the usual places, known as pipe joint compound, it’s a semi liquid not a putty consistency. I don’t recall ever seeing, or using a putty, I have used the semi-liquid but can’t see where the can is if it’s still around.

It was commonly used on steel pipe joints back in the day. It was more like a thick paste. Like fiber faucet stem packings it's probably been superceded.

Posted

I have used the OLD OLD school method of plane cotton trine / core not too thick. wrap it clock wise around the male pipe, all threads.  Used to work for me but that was along time ago. Don't do  Plumber work anymore to old.    

Posted
3 hours ago, RocketDog said:

It was commonly used on steel pipe joints back in the day. It was more like a thick paste. Like fiber faucet stem packings it's probably been superceded.

It's still available, and still widely used in the US. Great for black and GA pipe, but I would not use it on plastic, 

 

ProDope.PNG.783800cc13f86de90bea533726366ccb.PNG

 

 

You may also remember "Plumber's Putty" which is still available but more for setting drains and such than for sealing pipe, although it does seal very well at low pressure.

 

930621147_PlumbersPutty.PNG.75b605857d220ddb1b6ec84eab16cd34.PNG

PipeDope.PNG

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