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Posted

At Monday I punctured rear inner tube. Bought new one and fixed it. Yesterday I punctured front inner tube! Again I bought new one. And while struggling to put tire back on I ripped a hole in inner tube. So I just went back and bought third inner tube.

 

They are starting to give me a funny look in a local moto shop. 3 days/3 inner tubes. ???? If I rip a hole in this one or puncture it again today, I'm just driving to some other village to buy it.

  • Haha 2
Posted
59 minutes ago, AndyAndyAndy said:

 And while struggling to put tire back on I ripped a hole in inner tube.

Did you use the duct tape trick ?

Insert tube in tire. At 4 equidistant spots around the tire wrap duct tape tightly, so the beads touch together.

12 - 3 - 6 - 9 o'clock

Tire falls right on rim. Rotate until tube filler lines up with hole, insert and tighten nuts.

Cut duct tape, remove, Inflate tire.

Done

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Posted
2 hours ago, Isaanbiker said:

Me too. Colortune is worth the money. 

colortune.jpg

Hope so the plugs I have are genuine but not copper core so judging on exhaust behavior and sound is not that precise.

  • Like 1
Posted

I had one of those back in the day before the introduction of the periscope thingy.  You just looked down the centre.

  • Like 1
Posted
9 minutes ago, VocalNeal said:

I had one of those back in the day before the introduction of the periscope thingy.  You just looked down the centre.

Yeah I think I will need a periscope my plugs are very low within the cam head cover. 

  • Like 1
Posted
17 hours ago, Metropolitian said:

Hitted top notch 9000rmp in the highest gear on Vibhavadi road in rush hour.

 

9000 rpm is that a small cc bike all are you a wanna be nutter. ????????

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, Kwasaki said:

Hope so the plugs I have are genuine but not copper core so judging on exhaust behavior and sound is not that precise.

What's important is to check the carbs first and fix any possible damage. If a diaphragm has a little hole you can check it this way:

 

( Only for CV carbs)

 

Take the airbox/filter off that you can see the slides. Then blow some air from your lungs into the breathers and see if they open. 

 

All diaphragms should open as easily as the best one does. If they don't sit in the grunge, it's similar to one with a hole in it.

 

  There's an interesting video of a guy who figured that out, something that is not in any textbooks for mechanics.

 

 Once you know that your slides fully open at the same time, you're good to go for synchronisation of them.

 

But you also need to know when your floats stop letting fuel in. If they close too early, or too late, you'll never have a good running engine. 

 

There's the "clear tube method" where you can easily see when your float closes. 

 

Here's the easiest explanation on how to do that.

 

 

    Once that's done, you still have to check your air/fuel mixture, or sometimes also called pilot screw.

 

       Turning it in makes it leaner, turning it out makes it richer.

At some carbs, one fourth of a turn makes a big difference. 

 

Mark your tool you're using to be able to see how many turns you did.

 

If you use the right type of spark plugs you should be good to go.

 

But be aware that you do not need any fancy Iridium plugs that could be copied by China. 

 

Ordinary plugs are much better to read and the color should be light brown to caramel.

 

Here are my spark plugs after a few thousand km's.

 

The color of the plugs tell you all what's going on in your combustion chamber.  

 

( I've overhauled the carbs twice and was lucky to see the faulty parts) 

 

 

   

Front plug I.jpg

Front plug II.jpg

clear tube methond.jpg

Posted
30 minutes ago, Kwasaki said:

9000 rpm is that a small cc bike all are you a wanna be nutter. ????????

I never let my bike get into the red zone, You don't have to be a mechanic to understand why not.

 

  If the bike isn't riding, 9,000 RPM's are doing more damage to it than anything else.

 

But I also know that Thai mechanics do that until the piston comes out of the exhaust. 

  • Haha 1
Posted
37 minutes ago, Kwasaki said:

Yeah I think I will need a periscope my plugs are very low within the cam head cover. 

Read all about it before you do it. The periscope is there for a reason.

 

 

  • Thanks 1
Posted
3 hours ago, canthai55 said:

Did you use the duct tape trick ?

Insert tube in tire. At 4 equidistant spots around the tire wrap duct tape tightly, so the beads touch together.

12 - 3 - 6 - 9 o'clock

Tire falls right on rim. Rotate until tube filler lines up with hole, insert and tighten nuts.

Cut duct tape, remove, Inflate tire.

Done

I just found out that they even have a machine to change tires in Sisaket.

 

  Not too long ago, I took my tire to Ubon R. to get them balanced. Technical Thai sucks. Especially when they don't know shi_e about it. 

 

    Let them do the job and get the tire(s) balanced properly. 

Posted
21 minutes ago, Isaanbiker said:

What's important is to check the carbs first and fix any possible damage. If a diaphragm has a little hole you can check it this way:

 

( Only for CV carbs)

 

Take the airbox/filter off that you can see the slides. Then blow some air from your lungs into the breathers and see if they open. 

 

All diaphragms should open as easily as the best one does. If they don't sit in the grunge, it's similar to one with a hole in it.

 

  There's an interesting video of a guy who figured that out, something that is not in any textbooks for mechanics.

 

 Once you know that your slides fully open at the same time, you're good to go for synchronisation of them.

 

But you also need to know when your floats stop letting fuel in. If they close too early, or too late, you'll never have a good running engine. 

 

There's the "clear tube method" where you can easily see when your float closes. 

 

Here's the easiest explanation on how to do that.

 

 

    Once that's done, you still have to check your air/fuel mixture, or sometimes also called pilot screw.

 

       Turning it in makes it leaner, turning it out makes it richer.

At some carbs, one fourth of a turn makes a big difference. 

 

Mark your tool you're using to be able to see how many turns you did.

 

If you use the right type of spark plugs you should be good to go.

 

But be aware that you do not need any fancy Iridium plugs that could be copied by China. 

 

Ordinary plugs are much better to read and the color should be light brown to caramel.

 

Here are my spark plugs after a few thousand km's.

 

The color of the plugs tell you all what's going on in your combustion chamber.  

 

( I've overhauled the carbs twice and was lucky to see the faulty parts)

Get back to you that all can say at this moment is there isn't anything I don't know about CBR900RR bikes. ????

  • Thanks 1
Posted
21 minutes ago, Isaanbiker said:

I never let my bike get into the red zone, You don't have to be a mechanic to understand why not.

 

  If the bike isn't riding, 9,000 RPM's are doing more damage to it than anything else.

 

But I also know that Thai mechanics do that until the piston comes out of the exhaust. 

Nor do I that's why there's a rev limiter on most bikes, when I raced the bike I have now in uk I was always hitting the limit the trick was to change at the right speed for the gear you were in which was something you learnt.

9000 rpm is nowt for most bikes that's why I asked OP what bike it was, it would be s crazy thing to do on my bike in Top Gear in Bkk. 

  • Haha 1
Posted
1 hour ago, Isaanbiker said:

1. What's important is to check the carbs first and fix any possible damage.

 

2. Only for CV carbs

 

3. All diaphragms should open as easily as the best one.

 

4. There's an interesting video of a guy who figured that out, something that is not in any textbooks for mechanics.

 

5.  Once you know that your slides fully open at the same time, you're good to go for synchronisation of them.

 

6. If you use the right type of spark plugs you should be good to go.

 

7. The color of the plugs tell you all what's going on in your combustion chamber.  

 

8. I've overhauled the carbs twice and was lucky to see the faulty parts. 

Yeah thanks  and very helpful for guy doing there own DIY stuff on their older type bikes but myself answer your long post as altered.

 

1. I have already posted on this thread, the carbs have been totally dismantle and clean and checked.

2. They are CV carbs and I like em.

3. The diaphragms are all in good order no holes.

4. Yeah know about that technic for years thanks.

5. Mine are factory synchronized set.

6. I have genuine NGK Iridium plugs.

7. Not these plugs it don't.

8. As 1.

 

Ride to live. K

  • Thanks 1
Posted
23 hours ago, NCC1701A said:

made sure the tank was full.

It was before, and after 30 km below 50%. Maybe I need to re-check the carb as that was about 7 liters gone. More then my old Benz.

It is now full again without pain with the current price.

Only 18b/liter , big difference with years ago back at home petrol 91 nearing the 2 euro/liter. (75thb/l)

 

  • Haha 1
Posted
27 minutes ago, Metropolitian said:

It was before, and after 30 km below 50%. Maybe I need to re-check the carb as that was about 7 liters gone. More then my old Benz.

It is now full again without pain with the current price.

Only 18b/liter , big difference with years ago back at home petrol 91 nearing the 2 euro/liter. (75thb/l)

 

Sounds like a load of rubbish to me, or maybe you have a serious fuel leak, so come on what's the bike.?

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, Kwasaki said:

Sounds like a load of rubbish to me, or maybe you have a serious fuel leak, so come on what's the bike.?

It sounds rubbish to me too. I think it is a combination of; bad carb adjustment, non-lineair fuel gauge meter, not horizontal position when filling with gas and perhaps a leak but then I would have smelled it.

 

The bike? Not the one at the right side in the picture.

bigbike.jpg.f5d56759a0dae607548217a1e9abd9cc.jpg

????

  • Haha 1
Posted
21 hours ago, Kwasaki said:

Yeah thanks  and very helpful for guy doing there own DIY stuff on their older type bikes but myself answer your long post as altered.

 

1. I have already posted on this thread, the carbs have been totally dismantle and clean and checked.

2. They are CV carbs and I like em.

3. The diaphragms are all in good order no holes.

4. Yeah know about that technic for years thanks.

5. Mine are factory synchronized set.

6. I have genuine NGK Iridium plugs.

7. Not these plugs it don't.

8. As 1.

 

Ride to live. K

Live to Ride. M

  • Like 1
Posted
8 hours ago, Damrongsak said:

I parked my bike and went jogging instead.

 

giphy.gif?cid=ecf05e473a587fb258e2d9bcf3

Good job it was only the the big fella didn't like. ????

Posted

Re-post #798 before ganna do that stuff wanted to empty fuel tank  more, so off to highway, I know a high speed nice and smooth bit, but what happened when one of those long arm tractor thingys pulls out,  he wants 2 lanes ???? he has no idea of someone coming towards him at 255 kph towards him, it's just a single light a motorbike light.

No problem but parking bike up now and do my improvements.

Happy days. ????

  • Thanks 1
Posted

I've pulled my rear baffles and it was a pain in the butt.

 

I had ordered a hole saw with a 38 diameter. Unfortunately, did the other two ordered ones not arrive yet so I started with one.

 

   The freaking Chinese part the lost some teeth when it came on a welding. ( They are welded in) But then I saw another baffle deep inside. 

 

    The joke is that it's not louder as it was before with the holes drilled in the outer mufflers. 

 

Please excuse my foul language in the video. I've wasted two days for almost nothing! 

 

  

 

  

38 mm drill II.jpg

Exhaut with inner part I.jpg

many holes in muffler.jpg

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
Posted
On 3/28/2020 at 6:16 PM, Kwasaki said:

Re-post #798 before ganna do that stuff wanted to empty fuel tank  more, so off to highway, I know a high speed nice and smooth bit, but what happened when one of those long arm tractor thingys pulls out,  he wants 2 lanes ???? he has no idea of someone coming towards him at 255 kph towards him, it's just a single light a motorbike light.

No problem but parking bike up now and do my improvements.

Happy days. ????

Mate, ride safe,. i can't believe that you're doing such speeds in a Land full of idiots. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Yup those idiot farmers on their tractors should keep better eye out for farang doing 255 on bike.

Stupid monkeys.

  • Haha 1
Posted
3 hours ago, Isaanbiker said:

Mate, ride safe,. i can't believe that you're doing such speeds in a Land full of idiots. 

No worries sportsbike riders do this, an wide open straight highway and  deserted except for farmers and could pick him up a long way ahead, hit 270 kph after passing him hoping for more when the carbs are color-tuned then I will be just happy with the acceleration, top speed not important tuning is but I do luv speed, that why I got the bike. 

Posted

Stabilize tachometer needle and as I thought bad earth, when for test ride and found as I knew but just wanted to check 75 - 80 mph 5000 rpm. So to Colour-tuning now.

 Hang on getting back 25 year old radio leaking,  fixed it once but these old metal rusting rads of the day no good,  ordering a new Aluminum one. ????

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