Koh Phangan is a lot more than Full Moon Parties

khunPer · October 4, 2020

An interesting article to read...

Ko Pha Ngan: Thailand’s tropical refuge, then and now

Buffalo taxi, Haad Rin Beach, 1988. Photo: Darren Hansen courtesy of Jakkra Brande

Ko Pha Ngan is infamous for its long–running Full Moon Party, but there is a lot more to this idyllic, palm–fringed island than sound systems and teenagers imbibing cheap alcohol. Just 125 square kilometres in size, nestled between larger Ko Samui and smaller Ko Tao in the Gulf of Thailand, Ko Pha Ngan’s mountainous interior is drenched in evergreen rainforest, while its sandy beaches and coastal communities have been spawning subcultures from around the world for centuries.

Will the era of Covid19 provide a bookend on two decades of intense development, or will it enable the island to continue to offer new arrivals a sense of space, as well as a sense of place?

Bangkokian Jakkra Brande is the owner of Nira’s, Ko Pha Ngan’s first bakery. After their typewriter business collapsed, his parents fled the Thai capital during an economic crisis in 1984 and aimed for a new frontier—Ko Samui...

Travelfish.org Full article.

Edited October 4, 2020 by khunPer
Change link to article

thaibeachlovers · October 5, 2020

Phangan was still great on my last visit. As long as the airport never opens on it I expect it will remain, at least in more difficult places to reach, great. The largest threat to the north east is the concrete road and 24/7 electricity.

DDBKK · October 6, 2020

You're not wrong thaibeachlovers. There is the odd gopping structure that gets erected in an otherwise stunning spot from time to time but at least its somewhat complimentary to the surroundings, kinda. (Mae haad beach for example...)

Will be interesting to see how the island has weathered the storm when people are eventually heading back in that direction but doubt it will happen for quite some time yet.

thaibeachlovers · October 7, 2020

On 10/4/2020 at 9:31 PM, khunPer said:

Ko Pha Ngan is infamous for its long–running Full Moon Party, but there is a lot more to this idyllic, palm–fringed island than sound systems and teenagers imbibing cheap alcohol.

Perhaps it's changed, but back in the day the FMP was something that happened only on Haad Rin and was ignored elsewhere.

I did go there by road sometimes to stay ( when the FMP was not on as no wish to be crowded by youths drinking buckets ) as the beach is one of the best in Thailand. Often saw farang youths in bandages as they'd hired m'bikes despite have no experience riding and the hill is not kind to the foolish.

In later days the western resorts started offering transport to and from the FMP- nice little earner.

khunPer · October 7, 2020

1 hour ago, thaibeachlovers said:

Perhaps it's changed, but back in the day the FMP was something that happened only on Haad Rin and was ignored elsewhere.

I did go there by road sometimes to stay ( when the FMP was not on as no wish to be crowded by youths drinking buckets ) as the beach is one of the best in Thailand. Often saw farang youths in bandages as they'd hired m'bikes despite have no experience riding and the hill is not kind to the foolish.

In later days the western resorts started offering transport to and from the FMP- nice little earner.

To my knowledge the parties are still only in Haad Rin, but there are – or were until the Covid-19 lockdown – both Black Moon Party, Half Moon Parties, and Jungle Party. Many however comes for the FMP only – isn't the Jungle Party the night before as a warm-up...???? – so numerous resorts in Haad Rin now have a 5-night minimum stay. Other parts of Phangan should be party-safe-zone, and Sunrise Beach is also nicely cleaned the morning after, and usable for relaxing holiday the remaining about 26 days before next event. The other parties are much smaller and held inland, however the steady funky bass rhythm from the Half Moon Party can often also be enjoyed on Samui...????

I once met a heavily bandaged young guy with crutches in Samui immigration office, he was going to extend his permission of stay for another 30 days. First day on holiday on Phangan he rented a motorbike, which were delivered to his hotel, and he managed to get the few meters out of the hotel's driveway, and then bang...!

Commuting to FMP became big business – your old-time Maenam Beach photo in another thread shows a speed boat from when Grand Sea Discovery started from Maenam Soi Pier, which later expanded from three to about 15 speed boats commuting to Full Moon Party. But others like Lomprayah's Lomlak, Mister Tu, and Siri-something, with huge 4-engine boats, and a number more also came on the market. The former manager of Ark Bar told me, that a tourist agency shop could make the whole month costs, staff-wages and a nice profit from selling Full Moon Party tickets. Thousands of young folks – could be up around 5,000 when in peaks – were moved from Samui to HaadRin in the afternoon and evening, and after partying back again in the morning.

It's dark, and when being a pro photographer with the right hi-end equipment, its difficult to take good photos with a small pocket camera – I don't bring my big camera for a FMP – but this is a moment from Haad Rin Pier when folks are queue up for going back to Samui, a boat departs in average every five minutes...

thaibeachlovers · October 9, 2020

On 10/7/2020 at 10:52 PM, khunPer said:

To my knowledge the parties are still only in Haad Rin, but there are – or were until the Covid-19 lockdown – both Black Moon Party, Half Moon Parties, and Jungle Party. Many however comes for the FMP only – isn't the Jungle Party the night before as a warm-up...???? – so numerous resorts in Haad Rin now have a 5-night minimum stay. Other parts of Phangan should be party-safe-zone, and Sunrise Beach is also nicely cleaned the morning after, and usable for relaxing holiday the remaining about 26 days before next event. The other parties are much smaller and held inland, however the steady funky bass rhythm from the Half Moon Party can often also be enjoyed on Samui...????

I once met a heavily bandaged young guy with crutches in Samui immigration office, he was going to extend his permission of stay for another 30 days. First day on holiday on Phangan he rented a motorbike, which were delivered to his hotel, and he managed to get the few meters out of the hotel's driveway, and then bang...!

Commuting to FMP became big business – your old-time Maenam Beach photo in another thread shows a speed boat from when Grand Sea Discovery started from Maenam Soi Pier, which later expanded from three to about 15 speed boats commuting to Full Moon Party. But others like Lomprayah's Lomlak, Mister Tu, and Siri-something, with huge 4-engine boats, and a number more also came on the market. The former manager of Ark Bar told me, that a tourist agency shop could make the whole month costs, staff-wages and a nice profit from selling Full Moon Party tickets. Thousands of young folks – could be up around 5,000 when in peaks – were moved from Samui to HaadRin in the afternoon and evening, and after partying back again in the morning.

It's dark, and when being a pro photographer with the right hi-end equipment, its difficult to take good photos with a small pocket camera – I don't bring my big camera for a FMP – but this is a moment from Haad Rin Pier when folks are queue up for going back to Samui, a boat departs in average every five minutes...

Certainly busier than the times I visited the event, and even then there were speedboats, but traps for the unwary. The advice on Lonely Planet Thailand forum was always to avoid and use the Had Rin Queen.

Given the toilets were few and far between then, the common sight was of ranks of youths urinating in the sea. Touts selling drugs and then informing the cops to whom they had sold were too common, but some ended up in the psychiatric ward in Surat.

Re the hire m'bikes, when returning from Than Sadet on a muddy road we followed a small ( 125 cc ) m'bike up the hill that was transporting the Thai father, mother and a couple of small children quite sedately. On reaching the top of the hill we passed by a concerned farang family of 2 boys, and dad clustered around mum that had skidded on the road and been flung into the bushes. They all had a m'bike each. I'll bet that none had ridden a m'bike in their life before.

thaibeachlovers · October 9, 2020

Just now, thaibeachlovers said:

but this is a moment from Haad Rin Pier when folks are queue up for going back to Samui, a boat departs in average every five minutes...

They miss the best part of all, when the sun rises in the morning. Bliss.

khunPer · October 9, 2020

2 hours ago, thaibeachlovers said:

The advice on Lonely Planet Thailand forum was always to avoid and use the Had Rin Queen.

I see that many before followed that Lonely Planet-advise, but after seeing it I decided a proper loaded speedboat, controlled by Marine Department, with a life jacket for all passengers, made me feel far more safe...

By the way, the photo is stated to be a FMP-load at some time during 1990, it's borrowed from a public Facebook-posting, unquoted photographer. The slow-boat however survived, and Haad Rin Queen is still sailing between Bang Rak and Haad Rin...????

thaibeachlovers · October 10, 2020

22 hours ago, khunPer said:

I see that many before followed that Lonely Planet-advise, but after seeing it I decided a proper loaded speedboat, controlled by Marine Department, with a life jacket for all passengers, made me feel far more safe...

By the way, the photo is stated to be a FMP-load at some time during 1990, it's borrowed from a public Facebook-posting, unquoted photographer. The slow-boat however survived, and Haad Rin Queen is still sailing between Bang Rak and Haad Rin...????

The good old days indeed. How I miss them.

Good to know that it still carries happy people to Phangan and sad ones ( sad because they are leaving paradise behind ) away.

I have a favourite photo ( can't put it on here because I don't have their permission ) that shows 4 young adults ( I believe that is the correct PC term for youths ) leaving Haad Rin on a longtail. They appear happy enough, but look closer and one can see the sadness on leaving. They look like I felt every time I left Phangan after another wonderful holiday in paradise.

I always carried an inflatable device in my shoulder bag when traveling on any Thai sea transportation.

crazykopite · October 11, 2020

I moved to Koh Phangan in April 2006 and during that time I have witnessed vast changes to the island back then we had no Tesco ,Makro, Big C you went to the local markets it appeared in those days they had a three tier structure when it came to purchasing your meat and fruit and veg ,if you were born on the island you paid the lowest price if you came from another province you paid a middle price and if like me you were a foreigner you paid the top price so I welcomed Tesco’s arrival as it was one price for all . Thankfully due to the size of the island it will never become a Koh Samui but with the current Covid situation the island along with Samui is decimated and will take many years to recover . I now try and avoid shopping in the big stores but it’s very difficult as the little shops owned by locals carry very basic items. My hope is that the current government opens it eyes and eases the severe restrictions imposed that I know will prevent tourism returning like it used to . As we approach the peak season I can only see more businesses closing there doors due to the lack of visitors coming this little island that I love is not a Chinese tourist destination it’s frequented more by Europeans I hope I am wrong but all I see is gloom and doom throughout 2021 ☹️☹️☹️☹️☹️

Taco · October 11, 2020

Well written and factual. Mike is the farang mayor of Thong Sala. The votes have been cast. 99% Mike.

Alainpm · October 11, 2020

Full Moon parties are nothing more to this island than a mole on the skin

Edited October 11, 2020 by Alainpm

teacherclaire · October 11, 2020

Many Thais and foreigners must have lost their income thru COVID 19.

Many thanks to China.

You can't survive running a business without customers. But many Thais believe that we were the ones who brought the virus to Thailand?

What a crazy world that is.

salsajapan · October 11, 2020

2 hours ago, crazykopite said:

I moved to Koh Phangan in April 2006 and during that time I have witnessed vast changes to the island back then we had no Tesco ,Makro, Big C you went to the local markets it appeared in those days they had a three tier structure when it came to purchasing your meat and fruit and veg ,if you were born on the island you paid the lowest price if you came from another province you paid a middle price and if like me you were a foreigner you paid the top price so I welcomed Tesco’s arrival as it was one price for all . Thankfully due to the size of the island it will never become a Koh Samui but with the current Covid situation the island along with Samui is decimated and will take many years to recover . I now try and avoid shopping in the big stores but it’s very difficult as the little shops owned by locals carry very basic items. My hope is that the current government opens it eyes and eases the severe restrictions imposed that I know will prevent tourism returning like it used to . As we approach the peak season I can only see more businesses closing there doors due to the lack of visitors coming this little island that I love is not a Chinese tourist destination it’s frequented more by Europeans I hope I am wrong but all I see is gloom and doom throughout 2021 ☹️☹️☹️☹️☹️

it must be a paradise now without dirty backpackers !

do Thai travel there ?

thaibeachlovers · October 11, 2020

5 hours ago, crazykopite said:

I moved to Koh Phangan in April 2006 and during that time I have witnessed vast changes to the island back then we had no Tesco ,Makro, Big C you went to the local markets it appeared in those days they had a three tier structure when it came to purchasing your meat and fruit and veg ,if you were born on the island you paid the lowest price if you came from another province you paid a middle price and if like me you were a foreigner you paid the top price so I welcomed Tesco’s arrival as it was one price for all . Thankfully due to the size of the island it will never become a Koh Samui but with the current Covid situation the island along with Samui is decimated and will take many years to recover . I now try and avoid shopping in the big stores but it’s very difficult as the little shops owned by locals carry very basic items. My hope is that the current government opens it eyes and eases the severe restrictions imposed that I know will prevent tourism returning like it used to . As we approach the peak season I can only see more businesses closing there doors due to the lack of visitors coming this little island that I love is not a Chinese tourist destination it’s frequented more by Europeans I hope I am wrong but all I see is gloom and doom throughout 2021 ☹️☹️☹️☹️☹️

What happened to the 7 11 that was in the town decades ago? I bought all my holiday supplies there and they had standard prices.

thaibeachlovers · October 11, 2020

3 hours ago, salsajapan said:

it must be a paradise now without dirty backpackers !

do Thai travel there ?

I'd like to stay in Had Rin. It must be nice now without the revolting FMP. Lovely beach- one of the best in LOS.

connda · October 11, 2020

Koh Phangan is a lot more than Full Moon Parties given there aren't any backpackers left to attend. So Mr and Mrs Foreign Long-stay Retirees and foreigers still in Thailand - "Come on down!"

Our businesses are going under, we'll treat you like foreign pond-scum, but we need your money - badly.

"You'd think that Thai Immigration and the TAT would loosen up and enact policies to encourage the foreigners who are left here to travel and to tour."

Yeah, you'd think that. Hummm. ????

rascalman · October 11, 2020

I have for the longest time and vehemently objected to these drug fueled orgies! If things now are different I am not aware of it!

thaibeachlovers · October 12, 2020

14 hours ago, connda said:

Koh Phangan is a lot more than Full Moon Parties given there aren't any backpackers left to attend. So Mr and Mrs Foreign Long-stay Retirees and foreigers still in Thailand - "Come on down!"

Our businesses are going under, we'll treat you like foreign pond-scum, but we need your money - badly.

"You'd think that Thai Immigration and the TAT would loosen up and enact policies to encourage the foreigners who are left here to travel and to tour."

Yeah, you'd think that. Hummm. ????

I'll bet that when the crisis is over and the Chinese are back en mass they'll go right back to making it hard to live in LOS and treating us like pond-scum.

ChipButty · October 12, 2020

Sad to say but even if they do allow tourist back it will be a long time before it filters through to place like Koh Phangan

elgenon · October 12, 2020

23 hours ago, Alainpm said:

Full Moon parties are nothing more to this island than a mole on the skin

Apparently some people like moles on the skin. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

khunPer · October 12, 2020

The Full Moon Party on the Thai island of Koh Pha Ngan is the stuff of legend.

Now Covid-19 has put a stop to it. And some see an opportunity for a different type of tourism.

Is this the end of backpacking in Thailand?

The sun has dipped behind the bars and restaurants that run the length of Haad Rin beach. Soon the full moon will rise out of the sea, illuminating the soft, almost pure white sand. Staff at the bars, most of them Burmese migrants, lay out chairs and tables on the beach, to the pulsing beat of half a dozen sound systems.

Only a handful of customers come to eat and drink. It’s a peaceful, but cheerless scene. Just six months ago there would have been thousands of revellers here, drawn from all over the globe to one of the world’s most famous parties...

BBC News: "The death of the Full Moon Party".

Hanuman2547 · October 12, 2020

Despite living in Thailand I only managed to make it down to Koh Phangan once. That was in April 1999 over Songkran. Spent five days there and it was a lot of fun. Brought my mountain bike down and rode quite a bit around the. That hill out of Haad Rin is one steep hill! Didn't really join in all the drunken revelry on Haad Rin as that's not really my thing. Was cool to watch others though!

HashBrownHarry · October 17, 2020

On 10/11/2020 at 4:59 PM, connda said:

Koh Phangan is a lot more than Full Moon Parties given there aren't any backpackers left to attend. So Mr and Mrs Foreign Long-stay Retirees and foreigers still in Thailand - "Come on down!"

Our businesses are going under, we'll treat you like foreign pond-scum, but we need your money - badly.

"You'd think that Thai Immigration and the TAT would loosen up and enact policies to encourage the foreigners who are left here to travel and to tour."

Yeah, you'd think that. Hummm. ????

Sorry but in what way are the foreigners that 'are left here' NOT encouraged to travel?

I'm out and about all the time, what's the problem?

Tmoney · October 17, 2020

1 hour ago, HashBrownHarry said:

Sorry but in what way are the foreigners that 'are left here' NOT encouraged to travel?

I'm out and about all the time, what's the problem?

Well, they are certainly not encouraged to travel in the same way as Thai nationals. Why does this scheme not include expats and other tourists still here on covid exempt visa extensions?

https://www.nationthailand.com/news/30390800

lazygourmet · October 17, 2020

On 10/9/2020 at 9:12 AM, thaibeachlovers said:

They miss the best part of all, when the sun rises in the morning. Bliss.

Best part, as well, were the after parties with locale folks uphill at Backyard.

Edited October 17, 2020 by lazygourmet

HashBrownHarry · October 17, 2020

39 minutes ago, Tmoney said:

Well, they are certainly not encouraged to travel in the same way as Thai nationals. Why does this scheme not include expats and other tourists still here on covid exempt visa extensions?

https://www.nationthailand.com/news/30390800

It's up to you mate, people will always find excuses or things to complain of, get out there and live a bit, explore.....or just come on here for a whinge like so many others...

khunPer · October 17, 2020

1 hour ago, Tmoney said:

Well, they are certainly not encouraged to travel in the same way as Thai nationals. Why does this scheme not include expats and other tourists still here on covid exempt visa extensions?

https://www.nationthailand.com/news/30390800

Simply because you are not a Thai national/citizen, just like foreigners on temporary stay might not be covered by benefits given to citizens in your home country...????

Tmoney · October 17, 2020

Who's whinging? Not me, it's the Thai tourist industry that has the problems so I am just saying why do the authorities not do more to encourage expats who live here like they are doing for their own?

I have a great life here thanks, and have for almost 20 years - absolutely nothing to complain about ( apart perhaps from the weakness of my own currency against the baht).

Khun Per, you miss my point. All I am trying to point out is that TAT are trying to encourage ANYONE who is in the country to travel and spend money within the hospitality industry which is suffering greatly and would it not be a good choice to include expats who are already here to travel and spend their money in tourist areas as well?

I have no wish to argue my point further, just making a well meaning observation.

HashBrownHarry · October 17, 2020

2 hours ago, Tmoney said:

Who's whinging? Not me, it's the Thai tourist industry that has the problems so I am just saying why do the authorities not do more to encourage expats who live here like they are doing for their own?

I have a great life here thanks, and have for almost 20 years - absolutely nothing to complain about ( apart perhaps from the weakness of my own currency against the baht).

Khun Per, you miss my point. All I am trying to point out is that TAT are trying to encourage ANYONE who is in the country to travel and spend money within the hospitality industry which is suffering greatly and would it not be a good choice to include expats who are already here to travel and spend their money in tourist areas as well?

I have no wish to argue my point further, just making a well meaning observation.

How do you want the authorities to encourage expats?

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