Automatic Transmission repairs / service exchange box?

[Liverpool Lou]

6 minutes ago, Jen65 said:

oh and yes it is a 4x4  1st registered 2005 This was special model then labelled as "Elegance" 

"Elegance".   Only until someone stuck plastic chrome, et al, all over it!   Only kidding...

[Jen65]

1 minute ago, transam said:

Have you engaged 4x4 monthly to ensure lubrication of all moving parts..?

ah, no , I will try that and see if makes any difference . People may ask why I then have a 4x4 but the reason for that is this !! which I need to tow plus put down and recover on a slipway !! 

[transam]

1 minute ago, Jen65 said:

ah, no , I will try that and see if makes any difference . People may ask why I then have a 4x4 but the reason for that is this !! which I need to tow plus put down and recover on a slipway !! 

Your auto box has a drive coming  out of the box tail shaft to drive the front trans axle, the handbook says/advises to engage 4x4 every month for 6/10 km, not saying this maybe to cause of your knock, but who knows, they give this advice for a reason..

[pgrahmm]

17 hours ago, KhaoYai said:

I would have plumped for a U/J but if you've checked them it sounds like drag on the clutches (yes, autos have them). First port of call for most auto problems is to change the gearbox oil & filter. Also check the idle speed isn't too high.

 

By the way, when checking a U/J, do it on a flatbed ramp (wheels on the deck) with someone in the car selecting reverse & forward gears  - handbrake firmly on of course. You can't always see any movement unless the joints under load.

This will also work for motor/trans mounts + anything else that can shift & clunk under load...It could be as simple as suspension/shock bushings, even body mount bushings....

We're you able to isolate noises on the rack by running the engine & shifting D to R to D to R foot on brake & watch/listen to the drive train? 

Are/have all the lube/zerk fittings been lubed during servicing? That's universally overlooked everywhere....

[Jen65]

4 hours ago, pgrahmm said:

This will also work for motor/trans mounts + anything else that can shift & clunk under load...It could be as simple as suspension/shock bushings, even body mount bushings....

We're you able to isolate noises on the rack by running the engine & shifting D to R to D to R foot on brake & watch/listen to the drive train? 

Are/have all the lube/zerk fittings been lubed during servicing? That's universally overlooked everywhere....

many thanks for the useful info . I have all this listed now and will go back over the garage " pit " and go down and have a really good check , under load . You are right about greasing as previously they failed to grease the splined shaft coupling . I gave up with Toyota because whenever I went in the place is full of girls and as soon as I try to explain what I want doing by reference to the workshop manual they look at me in amazement !! Totally fazed !! Even the mechanic who came out seemed surprised I was able to quote from the workshop manual !!   One time I need a new steering rack and was quoted 27,000 baht by Toyota . I was able to obtain a genuine OEM part from Bangkok for 9000 baht !!   Not been back to Toyota since then .  

[Yellowtail]

What parts were listed on the quote from your mechanic? 

 

If he quoted 30K for parts and 3K for labor, he may know exactly what the issue is and it may have nothing to do with the A/T. 

 

If I owned a 4wd pickup with 200K on it and the A/T was truly going out I would sell it and buy something else, unless I could get a good junkyard replacement.

 

A a note, even if nothing is wrong with the A/T, I would take it to one of the shops that have the units that "re-refines" the fluid,  have that done and then change the fluid & filter a month later. 

[Jen65]

22 minutes ago, Yellowtail said:

What parts were listed on the quote from your mechanic? 

 

If he quoted 30K for parts and 3K for labor, he may know exactly what the issue is and it may have nothing to do with the A/T. 

 

If I owned a 4wd pickup with 200K on it and the A/T was truly going out I would sell it and buy something else, unless I could get a good junkyard replacement.

 

A a note, even if nothing is wrong with the A/T, I would take it to one of the shops that have the units that "re-refines" the fluid,  have that done and then change the fluid & filter a month later. 

No parts listed or mentioned from mechanic - I think it came out of the top of his head - only said "big job"  and didn't even bother to visibly check under the vehicle ! I did the initial check on my own - just paid a guy to put vehicle on the lift for 15mins .   It was the mechanic recommended that came up with a ball park figure out of the blue and the reason why I don't put my faith in what many tell you - thus the request for any advice here .  Advice / knowledge is free and can be researched free on the internet such that one can then make their own informed decisions and I'm thankful to those more experienced than I for giving such advice . 

[transam]

14 hours ago, Yellowtail said:

What parts were listed on the quote from your mechanic? 

 

If he quoted 30K for parts and 3K for labor, he may know exactly what the issue is and it may have nothing to do with the A/T. 

 

If I owned a 4wd pickup with 200K on it and the A/T was truly going out I would sell it and buy something else, unless I could get a good junkyard replacement.

 

A a note, even if nothing is wrong with the A/T, I would take it to one of the shops that have the units that "re-refines" the fluid,  have that done and then change the fluid & filter a month later. 

Don't understand your last para. Plus the auto filter is internal, usually lasts the life of the box...

[Yellowtail]

44 minutes ago, transam said:

Don't understand your last para. Plus the auto filter is internal, usually lasts the life of the box...

The A/T fluid is pumped though a filter a large secondary filter to remove all the contaminates while it is operating. 

 

And the transmission often does not last 200,000km. 

 

I would not do anything to the A/T other than check the fluid until 100,000km, and then I would just change the fluid.

 

If a filter is not picking up contaminates, why would there be a filter? 

[Ralf001]

On 10/10/2021 at 8:19 PM, Jen65 said:

many thanks for the useful info . I have all this listed now and will go back over the garage " pit " and go down and have a really good check , under load . You are right about greasing as previously they failed to grease the splined shaft coupling . I gave up with Toyota because whenever I went in the place is full of girls and as soon as I try to explain what I want doing by reference to the workshop manual they look at me in amazement !! Totally fazed !! Even the mechanic who came out seemed surprised I was able to quote from the workshop manual !!   One time I need a new steering rack and was quoted 27,000 baht by Toyota . I was able to obtain a genuine OEM part from Bangkok for 9000 baht !!   Not been back to Toyota since then .  

 

Doubt Toyota's fixed overheads amount to zero baht.

 

9k for the part.

9k to fit the part.

9k profit.

Nice if you can get away with it !!

 

[seedy]

21 minutes ago, Yellowtail said:

I would not do anything to the A/T other than check the fluid until 100,000km, and then I would just change the fluid.

For a torque converter auto - 50,000 Km max before oil and filter change.

CVT should be done much sooner - I would do 30,000 Km

[transam]

32 minutes ago, Yellowtail said:

The A/T fluid is pumped though a filter a large secondary filter to remove all the contaminates while it is operating. 

 

And the transmission often does not last 200,000km. 

 

I would not do anything to the A/T other than check the fluid until 100,000km, and then I would just change the fluid.

 

If a filter is not picking up contaminates, why would there be a filter? 

An auto box is more or less a sealed environment, the internal filter is a small affair basically to collect the very fine stuff that may have been rubbed off of the clutch plates, of which there could be as many as 10+. These filters can last as long as the car/box.

My fun auto ride had an additional external filter to trap possible box failure stuff..Here it is, just above the fuel pressure adjuster T's, a proper filter...

 

[Jen65]

Glad to say after all the useful informative replies here , I now have a new mechanic who went for a drive and agreed with me regarding the "clunk" noise stopping / starting off and we went back to the garage to investigate under !   Problem appears to be  the U/Js and centre bearing ( the rubber in centre bearing worn ) .   So I just ordered 5 new U/J's and a new centre bearing (all good quality / the U/J's original Toyota ) so will change ALL U/J's front and rear drive shafts and the centre bearing . At least the mechanic knows about marking the couplings so it all goes back together same alignment .Should be a metal patch welded on the shaft somewhere when it was originally balanced .  Lets see how things are after this job done .  

[Yellowtail]

57 minutes ago, Jen65 said:

Glad to say after all the useful informative replies here , I now have a new mechanic who went for a drive and agreed with me regarding the "clunk" noise stopping / starting off and we went back to the garage to investigate under !   Problem appears to be  the U/Js and centre bearing ( the rubber in centre bearing worn ) .   So I just ordered 5 new U/J's and a new centre bearing (all good quality / the U/J's original Toyota ) so will change ALL U/J's front and rear drive shafts and the centre bearing . At least the mechanic knows about marking the couplings so it all goes back together same alignment .Should be a metal patch welded on the shaft somewhere when it was originally balanced .  Lets see how things are after this job done .  

How much?

[seedy]

On 10/9/2021 at 9:16 PM, seedy said:

And how do you know it is in the tranny ?

555

[transam]

12 hours ago, Jen65 said:

Glad to say after all the useful informative replies here , I now have a new mechanic who went for a drive and agreed with me regarding the "clunk" noise stopping / starting off and we went back to the garage to investigate under !   Problem appears to be  the U/Js and centre bearing ( the rubber in centre bearing worn ) .   So I just ordered 5 new U/J's and a new centre bearing (all good quality / the U/J's original Toyota ) so will change ALL U/J's front and rear drive shafts and the centre bearing . At least the mechanic knows about marking the couplings so it all goes back together same alignment .Should be a metal patch welded on the shaft somewhere when it was originally balanced .  Lets see how things are after this job done .  

Aaaaah, my split drive shaft bearing mount suggestion....????

Drive shafts are balanced at factory, yes, they weld on a bit of metal to do that. 

The Vigo has grease nipples on all UJ's, it is a service item that they should be pressure greased.

Fingers crossed.

[Jen65]

On 10/12/2021 at 8:11 PM, Yellowtail said:

How much?

One centre bearing 600 baht ,  five original Toyota U/J's 2300 baht .    I have additionally ordered transmission fluid and transfer box oil as will change theses plus ordered the right NGLI2 grease for the couplings.      

[Jen65]

13 hours ago, transam said:

Aaaaah, my split drive shaft bearing mount suggestion....????

Drive shafts are balanced at factory, yes, they weld on a bit of metal to do that. 

The Vigo has grease nipples on all UJ's, it is a service item that they should be pressure greased.

Fingers crossed.

yes thanks for that .I have ordered the right NGLI 2 lithium based grease for the couplings . I will change the A/T fluid and the transfer box oil same time .   Workshop manual quite comprehensive - advises to tap the yokes with a hammer to ensure snap rings are seated properly and yokes turn smoothly.

[transam]

11 hours ago, Jen65 said:

yes thanks for that .I have ordered the right NGLI 2 lithium based grease for the couplings . I will change the A/T fluid and the transfer box oil same time .   Workshop manual quite comprehensive - advises to tap the yokes with a hammer to ensure snap rings are seated properly and yokes turn smoothly.

You will laugh.....Mrs.Trans drove the Vigo to here mums, about 80km, when she came back she said the truck was making a horrible noise. Hmmmm, jumps in the ride to see what it was, yep, horrible noise coming from under the truck, sounded like a serious drive shaft prob.

 

Anyhooo, drove it to my "friends" at B-Quik, got it up on the lift to check everything underneath, they said it all looks OK, so I get under the thing to search, there must be a problem.

 

After a lot of pulling and pushing I noticed a shiny bit on the split prop, at the floor mounting, on closer inspection looking up there was what looked like an alloy heat shield, it had a nick out of it, looked at the prop, yep, somehow she had driven over something that had come up and hit this shield bending it towards the prop, from then on every time the prop turned it hit the shield, so when driving there was this continuous clattering.

 

I pointed it out to the fitters with a smile, bent it back to where it should have been, job done and the dollar signs that were revolving in front of my eyes disappeared...????

[Jen65]

12 hours ago, transam said:

You will laugh.....Mrs.Trans drove the Vigo to here mums, about 80km, when she came back she said the truck was making a horrible noise. Hmmmm, jumps in the ride to see what it was, yep, horrible noise coming from under the truck, sounded like a serious drive shaft prob.

 

Anyhooo, drove it to my "friends" at B-Quik, got it up on the lift to check everything underneath, they said it all looks OK, so I get under the thing to search, there must be a problem.

 

After a lot of pulling and pushing I noticed a shiny bit on the split prop, at the floor mounting, on closer inspection looking up there was what looked like an alloy heat shield, it had a nick out of it, looked at the prop, yep, somehow she had driven over something that had come up and hit this shield bending it towards the prop, from then on every time the prop turned it hit the shield, so when driving there was this continuous clattering.

 

I pointed it out to the fitters with a smile, bent it back to where it should have been, job done and the dollar signs that were revolving in front of my eyes disappeared...????

What a coincidence - propshaft issues - touche !    Checking my centre bearing it is also an original Toyota/Lexus part so all the parts I received are original - good.     Even my workshop manual advises to be careful removing the shafts and not cause any "burs" from mishandling otherwise balance will be affected !   If, after replacing these parts there is still a problem, I suspect the diff may be the issue and it was the previous mechanic who replaced the shaft entry/bearing so I'm wondering if that was done correctly .    Just wait and see .  

[Yellowtail]

16 hours ago, Jen65 said:

What a coincidence - propshaft issues - touche !    Checking my centre bearing it is also an original Toyota/Lexus part so all the parts I received are original - good.     Even my workshop manual advises to be careful removing the shafts and not cause any "burs" from mishandling otherwise balance will be affected !   If, after replacing these parts there is still a problem, I suspect the diff may be the issue and it was the previous mechanic who replaced the shaft entry/bearing so I'm wondering if that was done correctly .    Just wait and see .  

If the shaft is installed incorrectly/unbalanced it will quickly become apparent. 

[Jen65]

Update on the vibrations and the " clunk " in the drive/transmission on my Vigo.

As it was suggested that most of the problems come from worn U/Js or centre bearing on the prop shaft I decided that bearing in mind the age/mileage it was a good idea to renew all ( all new parts received )

However , again today I was under the vehicle with the mechanic and he had a bar to lever the front engine mounts and sure enough the right side mount rubber had perished and was causing the engine to kick to one side !!!    So finally we have the real cause of the problem and new engine mounts are on order - all three (2 front and one under the transmission ) .  We will change the transmission and transfer box oils and do an all round lubrication service .    After all these new parts the drive/transmission should be A1   ( fingers crossed )

Oh , and the engine was leaking oil from a badly fitted rocker gasket cover so that is also on order !!     

 

[MajorTom]

On 10/10/2021 at 11:19 AM, DavisH said:

Dealers never repair anything (honda or otherwise) - they would just change an entire gearbox for 300K rather than make a 20K repair that can be done at an outside garage. 

Wrong. I just overhauled the gearbox on my Accord at Honda. It had bearing issues/noise. It took them a while but the cost wasn't as horrible as i expected at 33K. Every time i go there they give me a box of all replaced parts/oil cans/filters etc. I always found Honda to be very professional actually.  Something i don't see too often here, having dealt with imported motorcycles over the years.. I'm biting fingernails every time i have to go to a workshop ????

Edited October 21, 2021 by MajorTom
tp

[DavisH]

9 minutes ago, MajorTom said:

Wrong. I just overhauled the gearbox on my Accord at Honda. It had bearing issues/noise. It took them a while but the cost wasn't as horrible as i expected at 33K. Every time i go there they give me a box of all replaced parts/oil cans/filters etc. I always found Honda to be very professional actually.  Something i don't see too often here, having dealt with imported motorcycles over the years.. I'm biting fingernails every time i have to go to a workshop ????

Well not all dealer garages will do that work. How much did it cost?

[MajorTom]

11 minutes ago, DavisH said:

Well not all dealer garages will do that work. How much did it cost?

33K All inclusive. I feared exactly what you described actually: That they would tell me i need to buy a complete new one. Then I would have to try my luck at some random workshop to get it fixed. But they did a good job on it straight away. Works perfect now.