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Click 150i = Pros / Cons ?

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Hot for this new seasons colors and want some feedback on the machine.

 

Any takers ?

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  • It always depends on how you read the numbers. You can say "just 1HP and 2Nm", or you could say: 12% more horsepower and 19% more torque. I'm quite sure that this difference is noticeable, e

  • I still reckon a skinny school lad on a click 125i would be quicker than us salad dodgers on a 150i

  • i have a 125 click. but i like the wider tires on the 150. can't stand that pumpkin color. the key less thing is cool. very hard to get your key lined up in a 125 at night.  but my 125 is super l

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I guess I = Injection = No carburetor.

That is fine if all works fine but you won't be able to change any settings which are easy to change on a bike with carburetor.

So if you consider changing anything like a different exhaust, etc. that might be a lot easier on a carburetor bike.

 

I have a modern bike with computer controlled injection, ignition, etc. And it works according to the newest emission standards.

And it runs not smooth below 4,000RPM. And I can't do anything about it and the dealer's mechanics can't do anything about it because it's all in a sealed computer.

I could buy an aftermarket part for 300USD to solve this problem. I won't...

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i have a 125 click. but i like the wider tires on the 150. can't stand that pumpkin color. the key less thing is cool. very hard to get your key lined up in a 125 at night. 

but my 125 is super light and easy to maneuver. zero problems in five years.

it was so inexpensive new i am not worried too much about it getting stolen and held hostage.

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4 minutes ago, OneMoreFarang said:

I guess I = Injection = No carburetor.

That is fine if all works fine but you won't be able to change any settings which are easy to change on a bike with carburetor.

So if you consider changing anything like a different exhaust, etc. that might be a lot easier on a carburetor bike.

 

I have a modern bike with computer controlled injection, ignition, etc. And it works according to the newest emission standards.

And it runs not smooth below 4,000RPM. And I can't do anything about it and the dealer's mechanics can't do anything about it because it's all in a sealed computer.

I could buy an aftermarket part for 300USD to solve this problem. I won't...

 

Not the least bit interested in modding out the bike.

 

I could buy a Suzuki Raider if that was my intention.

 

This is a runabout twist and go type so wondering if the extra 25cc is worth the squeeze from the juice from the original 125i click.

 

I hate the look and oversized fairing of the PCX so never considered that model.

 

3 minutes ago, JimmyTheMook said:

 

Not the least bit interested in modding out the bike.

 

I could buy a Suzuki Raider if that was my intention.

 

This is a runabout twist and go type so wondering if the extra 25cc is worth the squeeze from the juice from the original 125i click.

 

I hate the look and oversized fairing of the PCX so never considered that model.

 

Buy the Raider 150. I have one (with carburetor). It's a lot of fun. ???? 

Not many scooter can be had with carburetors now, maybe some Chinese models.

 

FI is the way to go, optimum fuel consumption under all conditions. Some carburetors also don't like E fuel (gasohol).

 

I would get the 150cc model if I was you, gives you a bit extra grunt which is good, especially 2 up.

 

 

022735100_1483942932-New-PCX150-Colors.jpg.6538c95b2aae0b145dee76db07b70ac2.jpg

I didn't like this white / black and orange when they had it a few years ago on the PCX and i still don't like it.

But if it matches your taste then go for it ????

 

Imho it's quite easy, because it's simply a Click with 25 more cc:

When you ride a 125cc bike, do you often give full throttle? Going for 150cc makes sense

If you nearly never give full throttle on a 125cc bike, then you probably don't have a use for the extra 25cc.

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I got the 150 this year. Had the PCX before which was a lump of a thing.

looks great and a nippy thing as well. Well worth getting the extra 25cc. Very easy on fuel and the fob is handy when leaving the bike for  moment and returning. Just keep it in your pocket and you can start no problems.

Lots of space under the seat like the PCX.

 

You can buy the inside leg panels and change your colours if you like. I am happy with this one and hope to sell it for 50,000 in 9 months and just add 10,000 baht and get a new one. It will have about 4000 km's on the clock by then with Honda service history and receipts to prove it. That's the plan. ????

 

Great little bike with grunt if you need it. Buy one. ????

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42 minutes ago, eisfeld said:

According to https://paultan.org/2018/05/03/2018-honda-click-150i-and-125i-now-in-thailand-pricing-starts-from-rm6334-up-to-rm7476/ the difference is just 1HP and 2Nm, probably wont notice much. Costs 20% more. Any other differences?

It always depends on how you read the numbers.

You can say "just 1HP and 2Nm", or you could say: 12% more horsepower and 19% more torque.

I'm quite sure that this difference is noticeable, even without comparing them next to each other ????

19 minutes ago, jackdd said:

It always depends on how you read the numbers.

You can say "just 1HP and 2Nm", or you could say: 12% more horsepower and 19% more torque.

I'm quite sure that this difference is noticeable, even without comparing them next to each other ????

Noticeable yes, but how much? I don't think it's gonna make a big difference. Interestingly enough it seems the phillipino version seems to have better specs: https://www.zigwheels.ph/new-motorcycles/honda/click-150i/specifications

 

19% more peak torque means what on a CVT driven bike? If it always switches to the highest power RPM which is at 8.5k in order to provide maximum acceleration at full throttle then it doesn't matter much what torque it can produce at 5k or 5.5k respectively. In terms of acceleration you will then get only <12% improvement. Mind you I don't know how the Click CVT behaves in terms of RPM. Maybe it stays at lower RPM for fuel efficiency reasons?

 

In the end everything is always relative. If you try both back to back then you will probably take the 150. If you have another bike with a lot more power then choosing between the 125 and 150 might be a case of "meh, I only use it to zip down to 7 anyways, who cares, I'll keep the 9k price diff".

 

They should have given the 150 ABS imho. But I guess that's the PCX selling point that they don't want to cannibalize?

1 minute ago, eisfeld said:

They should have given the 150 ABS imho. But I guess that's the PCX selling point that they don't want to cannibalize? 

The PCX does not have ABS.

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I find the key less ignition a bit of a problem.

Never sure if I've locked it or not, and if not anyone can start it at the push of a button.

Then worry about dropping the fob when I'm driving along, they are expensive to replace.

 

At least with a key, I know where it is when I'm riding the bike.

25 minutes ago, jackdd said:

The PCX does not have ABS.

Woops, seems like you are right and they took away this feature again for the Thai version. Sigh...

 

Pros: You get somewhere faster than taking a Grab, a metered taxi, a bus, a train?, walking, or bicycling.   

Motorcycles are fun and cool to look at.  Chicks dig guys on motorcycles.

 

Cons: Thailand has the second highest road traffic fatality rate in the world at 36.2 per 100 000 with an annual estimate of over 24 000 deaths or 66 deaths every day. While globally 49% of road traffic deaths are among vulnerable road users (pedestrians, cyclists and motorcyclists), it is 83% in Thailand including 73% among motorcyclists or 48 per day.  http://www.searo.who.int/thailand/areas/roadsafety/en/

 

 

17 hours ago, OneMoreFarang said:

And it runs not smooth below 4,000RPM. And I can't do anything about it and the dealer's mechanics can't do anything about it because it's all in a sealed computer.

That's strange, the ecu computer can be re-calculated and checked your dealers mechanics more and likely are just spanners like me, I like carbs. ???? 

At Kwakas in Nakhon Sawan a technician plugged into my Versys ecu and checked everything, the difference was certainly noticeable. 

33 minutes ago, Kwasaki said:

That's strange, the ecu computer can be re-calculated and checked your dealers mechanics more and likely are just spanners like me, I like carbs. ???? 

At Kwakas in Nakhon Sawan a technician plugged into my Versys ecu and checked everything, the difference was certainly noticeable. 

I guess it depends on the bike. In my case, KTM, there is nothing the mechanics can do. The ECU has it's fixed maps and that's it. It seems until now nobody in the world found a way to hack that ECU (except physically breaking it open and then messing around with it). 3rd party additional components are connected in between like i.e. the real air sensor measures 30 degrees but the manipulated signal shows 20 degrees to the ECU so that the ECU adds more fuel. And other "tricks" like that.

Personally I think emission controls are a good idea - but sometimes it just goes too far.

And it seems for the future mechanics (or even electronic specialist) can't do anything anymore on engine settings for many bikes.

1 hour ago, OneMoreFarang said:

I guess it depends on the bike. In my case, KTM, there is nothing the mechanics can do. The ECU has it's fixed maps and that's it. It seems until now nobody in the world found a way to hack that ECU (except physically breaking it open and then messing around with it).

Like I said seems strange but like you said maybe depends on the bike.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zbw9tI5gRCU

 

3 hours ago, OneMoreFarang said:

I guess it depends on the bike. In my case, KTM, there is nothing the mechanics can do. The ECU has it's fixed maps and that's it. It seems until now nobody in the world found a way to hack that ECU (except physically breaking it open and then messing around with it). 3rd party additional components are connected in between like i.e. the real air sensor measures 30 degrees but the manipulated signal shows 20 degrees to the ECU so that the ECU adds more fuel. And other "tricks" like that.

Personally I think emission controls are a good idea - but sometimes it just goes too far.

And it seems for the future mechanics (or even electronic specialist) can't do anything anymore on engine settings for many bikes.

Did you solder in a reister into the circuit , fooling the ECU into running a colder map.  Not many KTM experts in Thailand. KTM factory do sell performance parts. 

22 minutes ago, ktm jeff said:

Did you solder in a reister into the circuit , fooling the ECU into running a colder map.  Not many KTM experts in Thailand. KTM factory do sell performance parts. 

No simple resistor - I am in the process of developing an "intelligent" circuit with Arduino. If you are interested send me a PM.

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9 hours ago, Henryford said:

Cons - it's not an Yamaha Aerox 155

That's a Pro Sir - Yamaha are trash compared to Honda's.

 

The oversized fairing on Aerox is a joke, noting to see there.

 

 

On 7/10/2019 at 8:12 PM, eisfeld said:

If it always switches to the highest power RPM which is at 8.5k in order to provide maximum acceleration at full throttle then it doesn't matter much what torque it can produce at 5k or 5.5k

IF is the key word here. Generally the CVT set up from the factory is quite

 

On 7/10/2019 at 8:27 PM, BritManToo said:

At least with a key, I know where it is when I'm riding the bike.

And so do the police. Usually the first thing they go for. If it is in your pocket not so easy.

I've had the old 110 cc Honda Click for 13 years, and never any serious issues. I change the oil once a year and after 10 years I had the whole thing stripped down and anything looking worn replaced, including all the plastic bodywork. If I needed another bike I wouldn't look at anything else but a Click. One of my farang neighbours has had a 150 cc Click for a while now and he gets on fine with it. He's also got a Honda Phantom but seems to use the Click all the time, cheaper I guess.

I bought my 150 click about 9 months ago, good motorbike, only for me took long time to get used with remote key 55. I have a spacey and also click 125 but for me the 150 is the best.

Go for it.

 

Beside its smaller size @ 107kg and step through design (personal preference), I don't see any cons with it. 

 

It's fuel efficient (FI) and affordable price for a 150cc. 

 

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21 hours ago, JimmyTheMook said:

That's a Pro Sir - Yamaha are trash compared to Honda's.

 

The oversized fairing on Aerox is a joke, noting to see there.

 

 

Kinda weird when your'e asking for inputs on your decision and then proceed trash other bike models. 

 

Looks like you've already made up your mind on it, why bother asking around?

 

Iv'e owned 2 Yamahas before, and currently owns a Honda. I believe Yams are above the Honda when it comes to ride feel and quality. But it's my own opinion based on my exp with both bikes only. 

 

I'll take the Aerox with ABS against the click 150i all the time. Bigger tires, abs brakes, a little bit more weigh, etc. But again, just my personal preference here..

On 7/10/2019 at 6:08 PM, NCC1701A said:

very hard to get your key lined up in a 125 at night. 

 

Try putting a bit of fur around it, You'll have it in in no time ????

 

On 7/10/2019 at 7:31 PM, jackdd said:

It always depends on how you read the numbers.

You can say "just 1HP and 2Nm", or you could say: 12% more horsepower and 19% more torque.

I'm quite sure that this difference is noticeable, even without comparing them next to each other ????

On a bike this size, that jump in torque would be very noticeable. And the most important thing is that the max torque on the bigger engine comes in 500 rpm lower in the rev range and that would certainly make things better around town.

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