Just now, transam said:

Be interested to know the car and year, just for my ol' grey cells...

Yeah things have changed so much l luv my old bike I can fix it without a dam computer but that said the little simple ICM is OK to do away with distributor and points. ???????????? 

1 minute ago, Ralf001 said:

not on modern day cars.

That is a broad statement, I am not sure that it is fact, but it maybe...????

1 minute ago, Kwasaki said:

Yeah things have changed so much l luv my old bike I can fix it without a dam computer but that said the little simple ICM is OK to do away with distributor and points. ???????????? 

Yep, I even put early day electronic ignition on British Leyland stuff, it was OK.

My 1976 Pontiac had electronic ignition from factory, no ECU though...

 

My old 1988 Volvo had an ECU, ignition, injection and even the climate control was auto controlled...Brill...

15 minutes ago, Ralf001 said:

not on modern day cars.

Here is the Toyota brake light switch......????

 

 

 

 

1 hour ago, transam said:

Here is the Toyota brake light switch......????

 

 

 

 

Toyota Camry's have been in production since 1982.

In 2012 they moved to electric steering, the Camry in the vid does not have electric steering so is 2012 or older.

 

As I said, on modern day cars is not a conventional pedal activated brake light switch.

On 10/19/2021 at 4:58 PM, Kwasaki said:

Thank's for the laugh are you a qualified motor vehicle engineer, you sound more like a salesman for auto products companies.

So sad that some people would listen to your advice. 

I just service my cars and bikes according to the manufacturers recommendations. And when I was younger I was renovating cars, took them all apart and replaced bearings, pistons, bored them to bigger volumes had the trimmed and balanced etc.. replaced rusty parts, repaint them, rebuild and altered. I bought a few cars cheap with broken engines and repaired, Some was rusty and needed body work, Some needed both. It was fun. I might pick up my hobby in a few years when I plan to retire and build a decent garage.

I have totally disabled more car and motor bike engines than I can remember, and only one time I had an issue with the engine from my Kawasaki Z1000ST -1980 that the cam chain was cogged one step wrong, so it didn't run as well as it should so I had to take the engine apart again. I took that engine apart only to change the gaskets (seals, thanx Ralf001 to help me with the terminology in the post below) to the valves because the had become dry and engine oil slowly leaked in to the cylinders. I did the same for my friend's Z1000 some years later but this time I cogged it correctly the first try.

(And just to be clear it is a coincidence that your profile nickname happens to be Kwasaki.)

 

Ok I can agree if you have an old 15+ year car that is not high performance then you probably can skip replace break fluid every 2 years, I would probably do it after 4, but not longer than that and surely before that if the breaks start to feel the tiniest bit spongy. Im not that cheap. I prioritize safety over saving a few bucks. Especially when it comes to tires. I buy new before they are worn down to the recommended thread depths.

 

If you ask me I thinks it's more sad that some people might take your advice and not replace and service in time.

3 minutes ago, Eaglekott said:

 I took that engine apart only to change the gaskets to the valves because the had become dry and engine oil slowly leaked in to the cylinders.
 

 

 

Valves have seals (stem seal) not gaskets.

 

Just saying.

On 10/19/2021 at 7:46 PM, seedy said:

Shift to First gear at 100 K !!!

WOW !

It was irony. But would take your speed down ????

3 minutes ago, Ralf001 said:

Valves have seals (stem seal) not gaskets.

 

Just saying.

True, I am not native English speaking, sorry. Its a small rubber thing with a metal spring on top that helps it tight a bit better and over some year the heat from the air cooled engine (also water cooled engines can have this issue) make the rubber hard and in some cases you get cracks in the seal. 

 

1 hour ago, Eaglekott said:

I just service my cars and bikes according to the manufacturers recommendations. And when I was younger I was renovating cars, took them all apart and replaced bearings, pistons, bored them to bigger volumes had the trimmed and balanced etc.. replaced rusty parts, repaint them, rebuild and altered. I bought a few cars cheap with broken engines and repaired, Some was rusty and needed body work, Some needed both. It was fun. I might pick up my hobby in a few years when I plan to retire and build a decent garage.

I have totally disabled more car and motor bike engines than I can remember, and only one time I had an issue with the engine from my Kawasaki Z1000ST -1980 that the cam chain was cogged one step wrong, so it didn't run as well as it should so I had to take the engine apart again. I took that engine apart only to change the gaskets (seals, thanx Ralf001 to help me with the terminology in the post below) to the valves because the had become dry and engine oil slowly leaked in to the cylinders. I did the same for my friend's Z1000 some years later but this time I cogged it correctly the first try.

(And just to be clear it is a coincidence that your profile nickname happens to be Kwasaki.)

 

Ok I can agree if you have an old 15+ year car that is not high performance then you probably can skip replace break fluid every 2 years, I would probably do it after 4, but not longer than that and surely before that if the breaks start to feel the tiniest bit spongy. Im not that cheap. I prioritize safety over saving a few bucks. Especially when it comes to tires. I buy new before they are worn down to the recommended thread depths.

 

If you ask me I thinks it's more sad that some people might take your advice and not replace and service in time.

Don't know why a composition.

Yeah understand why your upset with my criticism of whatever you posted before I've got kids of my own. 

14 hours ago, Ralf001 said:

Toyota Camry's have been in production since 1982.

In 2012 they moved to electric steering, the Camry in the vid does not have electric steering so is 2012 or older.

 

As I said, on modern day cars is not a conventional pedal activated brake light switch.

So what was the ride and year of the bloke I was replying too, remind me...?

 

23 hours ago, transam said:

The braking system is not a closed system. A/C is.

Tell me, why do slave cylinders or even calipers fail, why, when you take them off there is rust to be seen causing the failure.

 

The system pulls in moisture that's in the air via the master cylinder. Over a period of time the moisture, water, is pushed to the very end of the track, slave cylinders or caliper. It sits there and does its thing.

 

 

Exactly ! An important thing that when flushing old for new the system is bled out on all slaves. I have witnessed a lazy service center simply bleed out on the front right corner !

29 minutes ago, Nojohndoe said:

Exactly ! An important thing that when flushing old for new the system is bled out on all slaves. I have witnessed a lazy service center simply bleed out on the front right corner !

On my bike it is a closed system.

21 hours ago, Ralf001 said:

Doubt that filter does much filtering of unburnt fuel that degrades the oil to the point it creates friction on the bearing surfaces.

Fuel contamination is no more of a problem than water content in vehicles that do many short runs. Very often people panic after performing a long distance trip in petrol vehicles where the sustained  engine heat evaporates both the  water and fuel and the oil level drops falsely causing concerns about excessive oil "burning " issues. To a lesser degree same for diesel engines.

Recommendations for oil changes are mostly based on contamination levels, not any significant molecular deterioration of the oil itself. That is why recycled engine oil exists having been "re-refined" by filtration etc. It is simply minus contamination including the various additives which often include detergents to reduce sludging. Often that oil is reconstructed into "synthetic" motor oils that cost a lot more than the original mineral oil. Synthetic oils are claimed to provide better wear protection but at the end of the day are still equally subject to contamination.

 

1 minute ago, Kwasaki said:

On my bike it is a closed system.

Perhaps so but if you bleed some fluid out the slave cylinders does it have the same color as the resevoir?

5 minutes ago, Nojohndoe said:

 

Recommendations for oil changes are mostly based on contamination levels, not any significant molecular deterioration of the oil itself.

 

Yes - engine oil does not degrade. The oil gets contaminated and the additive package gets used up.

8 minutes ago, Kwasaki said:

On my bike it is a closed system.

There is a vent somewhere

On 10/18/2021 at 8:15 PM, AgMech Cowboy said:

Interesting comments and thanks for the subject. I've a car back in home country, which has been sitting for most of 3+ years. I 'may' go back in March and will face the same concerns; although, I changed its oil and had the transmission serviced with trans-oil change before I left, hoping to cut down any settling 'sludge'.

Did you top up the fuel tank? If not there might be some water in it.

14 hours ago, Eaglekott said:

Ok I can agree if you have an old 15+ year car that is not high performance then you probably can skip replace break fluid every 2 years, I would probably do it after 4, but not longer than that

Sorry, but a car I just took off the road for structural rust was 32 years old and in the past 11 years I never changed the brake fluid. I didn't drive it before that, so don't know about previously.

While I was away in LOS it might sit for between 6 months and over a year, but only prep I did was top up fuel tank. Only thing I had to do to start it was use a jump start battery.

 

Not saying it isn't a good idea to do all that proposed, but in my experience, not necessarily needed.

17 hours ago, Kwasaki said:

Yeah things have changed so much l luv my old bike I can fix it without a dam computer but that said the little simple ICM is OK to do away with distributor and points. ???????????? 

Agree. Sure, cars need less maintenance, but it sucks that we can't fix them ourselves any more.

6 minutes ago, Nojohndoe said:

Perhaps so but if you bleed some fluid out the slave cylinders does it have the same color as the resevoir?

Yes is does,  the system is clean or should be, it's a sealed system when the bleeding process is finished and the reservoir lid is fixed into position.

The proper term description is it is a closed system because you can open and close it unlike you can a sealed system.

 

I don't understand your question you don't get questions like that from I what remember taking exams in night college.

 

Are you a qualified motor mechanical engineer.?

23 minutes ago, thaibeachlovers said:

Did you top up the fuel tank? If not there might be some water in it.

That what a diesel fuel filter is for and will be cleaned when OP gets his service done. 

30 minutes ago, seedy said:

 

There is a vent somewhere

If you know my bike better than I do then please tell me where the vent is. ????

If it had a vent I'd have no pressure and the brakes would fail. 

18 minutes ago, thaibeachlovers said:

Agree. Sure, cars need less maintenance, but it sucks that we can't fix them ourselves any more.

Mechanically you can but I just watch somebody do it should anything go wrong.

My first service on my 2005 Vigo when I came to Thailand was one of my first lesson of how things are done here,  or more accurate how there not done.. ????

17 minutes ago, Kwasaki said:

That what a diesel fuel filter is for and will be cleaned when OP gets his service done. 

The OP didn't mention "diesel", or having a service done. Perhaps that was in a more recent post that I missed.

I certainly never had a service done unless the required km had been reached, no matter how long the car had been sitting. Engine started easily every time and no engine problems at all other than cam belt change because old. I reckon having electronic ignition helped, though there was no computer in the car. Wish my present car didn't have a computer, but later model second hand cars are so cheap now, plus parts for very old cars would be hard to find IMO.

23 minutes ago, Kwasaki said:

If you know my bike better than I do then please tell me where the vent is. ????

If it had a vent I'd have no pressure and the brakes would fail. 

The brake fluid reservoir is a canister connected to your brake master cylinder. ... Brake fluid reservoirs are usually made of polymer plastics and are typically separable from the master cylinder body. The reservoir cap is vented and has a diaphragm that expands and contracts to maintain normal pressure inside.Apr 21, 2564 BE

https://www.repairsmith.com/i/blog/brake-fluid-reservoir/

There are many many more examples if my posts are not believed.

Just because you do not know does not mean that it is not true

Your bike master cylinder  most likely looks like this -

Nissin example

 

1 hour ago, Kwasaki said:

Yes is does,  the system is clean or should be, it's a sealed system when the bleeding process is finished and the reservoir lid is fixed into position.

The proper term description is it is a closed system because you can open and close it unlike you can a sealed system.

 

I don't understand your question you don't get questions like that from I what remember taking exams in night college.

 

Are you a qualified motor mechanical engineer.?

A sealed system makes it less vulnerable to external sources of contamination but as a total system using hydraulics to actuate mechanical parts does not remove a gradual degree of contamination from wear and tear of those mechanical parts. Bleed and flushing the system helps to remove wear aggravating particles from them. Evidence of it is often observable from the initial fluid emitting from the bleeder/s.

I am a qualified Mechanical Engineer but not an Automotive Engineer.

3 hours ago, thaibeachlovers said:

Sorry, but a car I just took off the road for structural rust was 32 years old and in the past 11 years I never changed the brake fluid. I didn't drive it before that, so don't know about previously.

While I was away in LOS it might sit for between 6 months and over a year, but only prep I did was top up fuel tank. Only thing I had to do to start it was use a jump start battery.

 

Not saying it isn't a good idea to do all that proposed, but in my experience, not necessarily needed.

But, it was your usage of that vehicle, your perception of the pedal feel, you're not knowing what's going on inside your ride....A lot of your's...???? 

3 hours ago, seedy said:

The brake fluid reservoir is a canister connected to your brake master cylinder. ... Brake fluid reservoirs are usually made of polymer plastics and are typically separable from the master cylinder body. The reservoir cap is vented and has a diaphragm that expands and contracts to maintain normal pressure inside.Apr 21, 2564 BE

https://www.repairsmith.com/i/blog/brake-fluid-reservoir/

There are many many more examples if my posts are not believed.

Just because you do not know does not mean that it is not true

You need to do research you don't really understand the workings of different reservoir set up. 

On 10/20/2021 at 1:58 PM, tingtongfarang said:

i would'nt trust them with a peddle car now

They serviced my pedal car just fine!   You were trying to peddle [sic] your car?